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Old Mar 14, 2012, 10:10 PM
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AceMigKiller's Avatar
Joined Jul 2004
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Sniper Gear Door Mod --- Part 1

Okay Okay, feeling all better now so dabbled some time in the Sniper.

Next up on the chopping block in a mod for my Electric Nose Gear and Nose Gear Doors. Now don't freak out... I know there's some people out there that will say something like --- You're cutting out the stock structure and modifying it?!? ...Yes people; I'm only 24 and even I remember a time when we actually had to build our airplanes from scratch. A little ingenuity and craftsmanship can go a long way, so let's hope this gear mod turns out pretty cool!

First up, need to get a measurement on how far to sink the new Nose Gear Mount... I temporarily installed the Stock Air/Strut and measured how far the uncompressed strut sticks out. Just shy of 5 1/2" from the bottom of the airframe.
Next, *carefully* remove the two Nose Gear Mount formers from the airframe. Takes some time and finesse, but I managed to get mine out without any real damage. You can trash the ply support pieces, we'll make a new mount later.
Mark out the cut lines on the rear former to accomodate the E-flite 60-120 Nose Gear Unit and hack away! Then make a new Plywood Gear Mount and add Triangular stock around the outside perimeter to add some extra beef... only the rear side does not get Tri-stock.

Now take your time, trial fit the formers and new gear mount back into place and trim wherever necessary. Only after you're completely satisfied, epoxy or hysol them into place.
Once that's completely cured, place your Nose Gear Unit into place and drill the 4 holes necessary to mount the bugger. Be sure not to mount it all the way forward as your steering arm will need some wiggle room... literally.
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Old Mar 14, 2012, 11:07 PM
Team EJF >>>WHOOSH>>>
AceMigKiller's Avatar
Joined Jul 2004
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Sniper Gear Door Mod --- Part 2

Now we're gonna work the Front Gear Door.
The whole idea behind this Nose Gear system is to have a front door swing forward and a side door swing out... adds complexity and factor, so if you don't feel like doing it, you certainly don't have to!

I made a rectangular plywood dummy door first to get my geometry and offset hinges done up right before butchering my fiberglass gear door cover. Take your time and use some good hinges. I used two regular (non-spring loaded) gear door hinges from SonicTronics. The Front Door should fit as flush as possible when retracted, and pivot forward with no binding when deployed.

When you're happy with the fit/movement, it's time to cut your fiberglass gear door cover... so don't mess it up!
Trial fit your gear door once again, and be generous with your adhesive when you glue the door to the hinges. You'll also notice I've slipped a shaped piece of wood on the inside of the gear door... it serves two purposes: (A) It allows the gear door to smoothly ride along the Nose Gear Strut and not get caught up on anything while being deployed, and (B) It fills the space between the gear door and retract unit when retracted. Once everything is dry, cycle your Nose Retract and make sure it all works right. The Strut will push the door open and keep it from retracting when delpoyed. When retracted, the slipstream will keep the front door securely seated against the bottom of the jet... you'll probably never get slow enough to where the door will want to drop by itself.
Front Gear Door Complete!

Then we move on to the Rear Door.
I ran out of time and haven't finished this one yet, but here's what I've got so far---
Using one spring-loaded gear door hinge and one non-loaded, carefully trial fit the hinges to give you best geometry. The Rear Door should swing open (from spring force) when nothing else is present to about 90-degrees. When you're satisfied with the fit, glue up the hinges to the airframe and the door... notice that you may have to add some spacers to the hinges (on the door side) to align it correctly when retracted.
The last bit of work is to place a tension string between the door and the airframe so when the Retract sucks up, it brings the door along with it. I haven't done this yet, but I'll probably get to that tomorrow... until then, ENJOY!

Vic
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Old Mar 15, 2012, 12:18 AM
DELTAS RULE
corsair nut's Avatar
tehachapi, CA
Joined Jan 2006
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looking SOO good! i LOVE that strut. reminds me of a mirage III or kfir strut, especially with the doors the way you did them.

cant wait t get my hands on one! whats your scheme going to be eh?
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Old Mar 15, 2012, 07:47 AM
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Brickyard's Avatar
United States, NY, New York
Joined Dec 2008
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Does the stock kit have gear doors, or just that huge hole? If you get a chance can you post a pic of your doors all closed? Thanks, Jay
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Old Mar 15, 2012, 07:51 AM
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Hossinarizona's Avatar
USA, AZ, Tucson
Joined Nov 2007
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Vic,
Looks very cool, that might look good on mine
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Old Mar 15, 2012, 09:35 AM
Its a Condition not Addiction
lashmett75's Avatar
United States, CA, Sunnyvale
Joined Jul 2008
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Yo Vic,

FYI...do yourself a favor and move the steering slider peice to the otherside. I have found that with doors that are hinged on the same side, it can and most likely will hit. Just heat up the screw or it will snap....OH SNAP

Looks BAD A$$. Paint her up nice

James
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Old Mar 15, 2012, 10:44 AM
Team EJF >>>WHOOSH>>>
AceMigKiller's Avatar
Joined Jul 2004
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We think alike!
I thought about that (of course) *after* I did it all up. Lucky for me it doesn't hit/rub, I've got a few mm's clearance all around! Thanks bud, you'll have to get some stick time next time I see you!

Vic
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Old Mar 15, 2012, 10:51 AM
Team EJF >>>WHOOSH>>>
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brickyard View Post
Does the stock kit have gear doors, or just that huge hole? If you get a chance can you post a pic of your doors all closed? Thanks, Jay
The model comes with the gear door molded into the fuselage... it's outlined, so you have to carefully cut it away from the fuse.
My two gear doors are just that one piece cut into the two pieces you see there.

Here's a shot w/ the doors closed as requested.
Remember I'm not finished yet, so the tape is just there to hold onto the spring-loaded door.

Vic
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Old Mar 15, 2012, 12:43 PM
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Thanks man, I love it! Especially the front portion acting as an additional drag inducing device! I'll have to do something similar
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Old Mar 15, 2012, 01:48 PM
Team EJF >>>WHOOSH>>>
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That's part of the plan!
Not worried about takeoff... this thing is so overpowered it won't matter by the time the gear comes up. Makes you hold a higher throttle setting to maintain final approach descent rate, so if you need to go around you just pour on the coals, suck up the gear/flaps, and you've got an instant 3-4kts

Vic
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Old Mar 15, 2012, 01:50 PM
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whats the scheme man?
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Old Mar 15, 2012, 01:53 PM
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Tumbler's Avatar
New Jersey
Joined Feb 2003
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Everytime I have done that with my landing gear and made a front part to the door, the gear has failed to extend fully and collapsed on landing. I even tested it by holding a gas leaf blower on the nose and it worked fine, but failed to come down in the air no matter how slow I let the plane get before dropping the gear. I have tried it with spring down and air down gearand had problems with both. Until you get the larger gear with larger air cylinders, it seems to be an issue. I am not saying not to try it, but it is a lot more reliable with smaller landing gear like this to use 1 big door.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brickyard View Post
Thanks man, I love it! Especially the front portion acting as an additional drag inducing device! I'll have to do something similar
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Old Mar 15, 2012, 02:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tumbler View Post
Everytime I have done that with my landing gear and made a front part to the door, the gear has failed to extend fully and collapsed on landing. I even tested it by holding a gas leaf blower on the nose and it worked fine, but failed to come down in the air no matter how slow I let the plane get before dropping the gear. I have tried it with spring down and air down gearand had problems with both. Until you get the larger gear with larger air cylinders, it seems to be an issue. I am not saying not to try it, but it is a lot more reliable with smaller landing gear like this to use 1 big door.

Thanks.. Hmmm, Didn't think of that. That's exactly how it was on my Bandits, so it looked good. Maybe the issues are only with pneumatic powered nose gear.. Guess we'll know soon enough
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Old Mar 15, 2012, 02:22 PM
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New Jersey
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Yeah, I am obsessed wth the look of the Bandit which is why I have always tried to make it work, but it was always unreliable in 90-100mm sized jets. Electric or Mechanical retracts would work better for the front door. On my most recent project I did not like having 1 big door so I split it down the middle and used a spring to close and hold them open. Very simple in case you want another option. Here is a vid...

Split Gear Door (0 min 35 sec)



Quote:
Originally Posted by Brickyard View Post
Thanks.. Hmmm, Didn't think of that. That's exactly how it was on my Bandits, so it looked good. Maybe the issues are only with pneumatic powered nose gear.. Guess we'll know soon enough
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Old Mar 15, 2012, 02:32 PM
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New Jersey
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I see Vic switched to the electric retract...I would think that would work better for the front door than the stock air power.
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