Originally Posted by Budasac

I just got my Genius last week but the tx was defective and I had to return it. So my new Devo 7 will be here tomorrow or friday. This is my first Walkera heli, what is the process for binding my Genius with the new Tx?

Thanks.

My understanding is it's much like the V911, plug battery into GCP then turn on TX. Done.

That's how I do it on the MTC-01 too.

There's a "bind plug" that comes with the Heli for the rx. I have to assume that you need to use it to bind to a new rx.

Originally Posted by Budasac

There's a "bind plug" that comes with the Heli for the rx. I have to assume that you need to use it to bind to a new rx.

Nope. Nobody knows why they included that plug.

I have heard mention of being able to clear the fixed ID with that plug but other sources say the Genius RX doesn't support fixed ID so I have no idea.

I think it's to fix the I.D.

Originally Posted by Budasac

There's a "bind plug" that comes with the Heli for the rx. I have to assume that you need to use it to bind to a new rx.

That's not a bind plug. That's the 'unbind' plug.

Binding on a Devo involves going to the menu and sending the TX's ID to the helicopter. You are now permanently bound and don't have to wait several seconds for the two to find each other each time you turn them on. No bind plug needed.

The plug is used to 'reset' the helicopter and clear its memory. If you've ever set the jumper on your PCs motherboard to reset the BIOS, this is the same thing.

Ok, before I returned the tx, I would follow this procedure: power on tx, connect battery on heli, move the right stick on the tx (tone would sound), 2 seconds later they were connected.
So essentially I was binding every time? If I go into the menu on the Devo and send the tx info to the receiver then that would be "fixed ID", and I wouldn't have the delay when connecting?
If I'm understanding correctly then I really don't have to do anything with the new tx other then program it and then follow the same procedure as I was before when powering on.

Has anyone tried a V911 tail motor as a replacement for the Genius? From my measurements they are the same 614 motors. The V911 motor is 1/3 the price though. The V911 motor seems way more powerful than the V911 needs so I'm thinking it might work in the GCP.

Maybe it would lack enough power or maybe it would be even better than the GCP motor, I have no idea but it would be great if I could share parts.

Originally Posted by Budasac

Ok, before I returned the tx, I would follow this procedure: power on tx, connect battery on heli, move the right stick on the tx (tone would sound), 2 seconds later they were connected.
So essentially I was binding every time? If I go into the menu on the Devo and send the tx info to the receiver then that would be "fixed ID", and I wouldn't have the delay when connecting?
If I'm understanding correctly then I really don't have to do anything with the new tx other then program it and then follow the same procedure as I was before when powering on.

I dont see the point in fixed iD ,,its only the first lipo that needs time to bind,,leave the tx on when you swap lipos and it binds instant each time until you turn off the tx.

Originally Posted by Magic k2

I dont see the point in fixed iD ,,its only the first lipo that needs time to bind,,leave the tx on when you swap lipos and it binds instant each time until you turn off the tx.

I don't see a need for fixed ID either. I never fly with any one else anyway. My main concern was simply binding my Genius to the new TX. I didn't have an issue with it before (the slight delay), but I didn't know if the tx that came with it was bound to the heli from the factory (it came pre-programmed).

So all is well now I think. The new Devo will be here tomorrow I hope. I'm hoping it's programmed as well but that may be wishful thinking.

BTW- I ordered my RTF from "Walkera - Esky" on Ebay. Worst customer service ever. I went to change some settings in the tx and found that the "dn" button was defective. Only the mechanical click of the button could be heard. No tone and no response in the menu. If you pushed real hard it would click again and then you'd hear the tone but the menu would move UP not down. Contacted the seller and was told I don't know how to use it. Responded that I'm pretty sure it's defective and was told that the odds of a defective Devo radio are 0%..........
After a few more E-mails he said " send it back if you like but I'm positive the next one will have the same "defect" as the one you have.

When he received it I got an E-mail stating " just for your information, the "dn" button works it just stiff and you have to push hard on it."
What a dick!

What ever happened to "I'm very sorry about the defective item you received, please ship it back for a replacement. We apologize for any inconvenience this may have caused."

Needless to say, I won't be ordering from them again.

Originally Posted by Budasac

I don't see a need for fixed ID either. I never fly with any one else anyway. My main concern was simply binding my Genius to the new TX. I didn't have an issue with it before (the slight delay), but I didn't know if the tx that came with it was bound to the heli from the factory (it came pre-programmed).

So all is well now I think. The new Devo will be here tomorrow I hope. I'm hoping it's programmed as well but that may be wishful thinking.

BTW- I ordered my RTF from "Walkera - Esky" on Ebay. Worst customer service ever. I went to change some settings in the tx and found that the "dn" button was defective. Only the mechanical click of the button could be heard. No tone and no response in the menu. If you pushed real hard it would click again and then you'd hear the tone but the menu would move UP not down. Contacted the seller and was told I don't know how to use it. Responded that I'm pretty sure it's defective and was told that the odds of a defective Devo radio are 0%..........
After a few more E-mails he said " send it back if you like but I'm positive the next one will have the same "defect" as the one you have.

When he received it I got an E-mail stating " just for your information, the "dn" button works it just stiff and you have to push hard on it."
What a dick!

What ever happened to "I'm very sorry about the defective item you received, please ship it back for a replacement. We apologize for any inconvenience this may have caused."

Needless to say, I won't be ordering from them again.

Ye he sounds like a TOTAL dick,,ithey dont want to admit its faulty because they dont want to deal with walkera to return it as they are dicks also lol : )

Originally Posted by Magic k2

I dont see the point in fixed iD ,,its only the first lipo that needs time to bind,,leave the tx on when you swap lipos and it binds instant each time until you turn off the tx.

The point is to not bind with someone else's heli at the field, as I'm sure you know. If you fly alone, it's never an issue. I've heard this for years and never come across it, but last week, I went to go fly with my buddy Travis MCH. Neither one of us was on fixed ID, and even though we've flown together lots of times, we did this 'double bind' thing on accident -- TWICE! The first time his V120D05 bound with my V120D02. It was pretty freaky to see, and we caught it quick, thank goodness--before any spool ups. We even set them next to each other, spooled them both up, and tried to take off. Given the different settings, the D05 took off first, and I set it down there.

It's probably not a huge deal with a micro, but with a larger bird . ... .

Rafa

I messed up big time last night. My Negative wire broke connection on the receiver board. Instead of prying the board off the foam pad, I was lazy and mistakenly soldered from board side to the leg of a tiny diode(??) that is adjacent to the negative connection post. (looks like one of these) .The receiver still binds up, but when you plug in power the tail motor runs immediately wide open. I am pretty sure I fried from heat this little square diode(??). Does anyone have any idea about what and where to order a replacement diode(??). After looking at the price of replacement receivers ($80) , I went to Banggood and purchased a new V2 for $119 (bgxmas coupon). I have allot of Genius spares, and still would like to try and repair this Genius for backup and try to keep the V2 nice. Maybe I can select a diode out of one of my many non-working V911 boards. Are these diodes pretty generic for 1 cell boards?

Originally Posted by bobfa

I messed up big time last night. My Negative wire broke connection on the receiver board. Instead of prying the board off the foam pad, I was lazy and mistakenly soldered from board side to the leg of a tiny diode(??) that is adjacent to the negative connection post. (looks like one of these) .The receiver still binds up, but when you plug in power the tail motor runs immediately wide open. I am pretty sure I fried from heat this little square diode(??). Does anyone have any idea about what and where to order a replacement diode(??). After looking at the price of replacement receivers ($80) , I went to Banggood and purchased a new V2 for $119 (bgxmas coupon). I have allot of Genius spares, and still would like to try and repair this Genius for backup and try to keep the V2 nice. Maybe I can select a diode out of one of my many non-working V911 boards. Are these diodes pretty generic for 1 cell boards?

If you're talking about the brown device mounted near the positive and negative battery wires then that is a capacitor. Those can be tricky to replace because often they have no markings indicating their value. The one on my board doesn't have any markings.

It's probably a power filter capacitor but I can't really see what it's connected to. Looks most probably connected across the motor(s) power which helps smooth the power and prevent spikes from feeding back into the electronics (brushed motors are especially noisy electrically).

These SMD capacitors are actually pretty tough and resistant to heat but I don't know how much you actually applied. If you just bridged the black wire to the left side (in the picture above) then it should be OK to leave as it is because that side is already connected to the black wire. If you bridged the other side, crossed sides, or burned up the capacitor then you might have an issue.

First try to make sure nothing is bridged to anything else it's not suppose to, fixing those issues may fix it. That capacitor is actually pretty big and relatively easy to access compared to most things so it would actually be easy to replace with the proper tools and skill. You need a very fine solder tip and preferably a temperature controlled soldering iron. SMT devices can be difficult to buy because often you have to buy dozens or even hundreds at a time. I don't know what country you're in but Digikey, Mouser, newark.com, futurlec.com, etc carry these types of things. I usually pull mine off old electronics.

In this situation what I would do is first make sure nothing else is bridged or desoldered because that is the most likely problem. Then try to test across the capacitor looking for a short. Then if no short I would try to measure the capacitance on the off chance I can get a reading. I just tried measuring mine but the positive side has some sort of tough goop on it and I couldn't get a reading (readings with it in-circuit are usually wrong anyway). After that would be removing it for testing. We can only guess at the value, it could be anything but it looks relatively large. However, if it really is a filter capacitor for the motors then the value is not super critical, I would err on the larger side since that looks like a big cap. SMT devices have a package size that says how big they are physically, that one looks like a 1206 (3216 metric) or bigger 1210 (3225 metric) ceramic capacitor. Note that physical size is separate from the capacitor's value.

Its on the other side. For some reason, after a early disconnect repair job, I soldered to the posts underneath. This worked but this is how I missed, and soldered to the diode. But the component is similar to my picture I posted with no markings. I did try to soak up excess solder and hope for a re-joint. and visually inspected board with a magnifier. (gosh this stuff is small) Sounds like this will not be easy, and will end up learning . Anyone have a dead board they do not want for parts.

Haha, so I wrote all that for nothing. Well, maybe somebody can benefit.

A diode is a lot more sensitive to heat than a capacitor so it could very well be fried.

Diodes can be pretty generic but there are several different types of diodes. Odds are it's just "regular" (versus Schottky or Zener) with the most important factor being current handing ability.

I can't see the bottom of my board and I don't want to take it apart but most likely it's just a small current normal circuit diode which is pretty generic. That is if it's relatively small and black. If it's on the power circuit for a motor though it could have a higher than normal current rating. Can you see any markings on it? Sometimes the width of the traces on the board can give you an indication of the amount of power flowing through it.