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Old Oct 07, 2011, 12:40 AM
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United States, AR, Jonesboro
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Well, took the shrink off of one of my detrum dynam 25a ESCs and sure enough it has an atmega8 chip in it .

These will probably get the programing did to them when I know for sure ill have time to test them out.

The ESC was from my earlier batch, but I have some recent ones that have the exact same dimensions and looks as the older ones. Im probably going to order more of them in the coming weeks as I don't have any backups in case something happens
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Old Oct 07, 2011, 07:45 AM
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Italy, Veneto, Padua
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DroneBuilder View Post
I have just completed the successful hardware mod of six ExceedRC Proton 30A esc's to work with an MK using i2c control.

The firmware I used was pre-compiled into hex files by ArthurP.

The firmware files were named "TGYPxxA2007v0100TwiNoCalM01.hex" and went through "TGYPxxA2007v0100TwiNoCalM08.hex" (of course, I only used 1 - 6).

The question I have is:

If you implement TC's i2c patch into your newer code (and maybe provide some hex files) would an improvement be realized? if so, I'd be glad to re-program mine. (I have not yet mounted them to a bird to test them in flight, I have only connected them and tested them in MKtools.)

Thank you!
Hi DroneBuilder and Hi at all, I would like to ask if did you tested with theese modified ESC and MK in fly.
Thanks.
Bye.
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Old Oct 07, 2011, 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by c2po View Post
Yep, that's what I used.
Do you use avrdude or avrstudio? Have some problems with avrdude and a bit confused about settings in avrstudio, I can only program the flash memory, not eeprom
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Old Oct 07, 2011, 01:14 PM
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You don't need to program eeprom.
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Old Oct 07, 2011, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Nek View Post
Well I just finished assembling a quad to test my reflashed 10A RCTimers properly and something went veeeery wrong. First just when I wanted to check motor rotation with no prop ons just giving it a blip of throttle made one of the FETs pop! ESC was still running after wards, so I figured I might as well solder the rest and give it a go. Well it is not pretty at all!!! They barely turn the motors and they get hot so fast.

I have also tried on this quad a power distribution board made from a two layer copper clad pcb. The top traces is pretty much a ground plane, bottom one a power plane. Maybe it is not enough to carry the amps needed by each motor and the reason why it is not working at all?

I know my motors draw something like 12A at full throttle with the props I am using so I knew a 10A esc was asking for trouble but still... I have some 18A lying around and will try them with a regular wire power spider and see if that works. I'll bring the power ditribution PCB back into play once I am sure it is not the culprit!
Err, so how many fets fried? One on each board, or just one on one board? And did it start at all first or did it immediately pop and then try to start?

Also, when it fried, did you have to reset it (eg: locked up), or did it beep and work again after throttle reset (eg: brownout detection), or did it not even notice and just keep working except for the broken fet? Which build did you use?

I have fried a single FET on three 18A plush boards back over the summer, but always after water exposure or some weird crash, never on the bench, and nothing recent. Yeah, it can usually start and work with the one fet blown, but timing is hard and it sounds pretty bad. I just hope there is nothing lingering that my bench supply's current limiting is covering up.
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Old Oct 07, 2011, 11:00 PM
Nek
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French Polynesia, Windward Islands, Faaa
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Originally Posted by simonk View Post
Err, so how many fets fried? One on each board, or just one on one board? And did it start at all first or did it immediately pop and then try to start?

Also, when it fried, did you have to reset it (eg: locked up), or did it beep and work again after throttle reset (eg: brownout detection), or did it not even notice and just keep working except for the broken fet? Which build did you use?

I have fried a single FET on three 18A plush boards back over the summer, but always after water exposure or some weird crash, never on the bench, and nothing recent. Yeah, it can usually start and work with the one fet blown, but timing is hard and it sounds pretty bad. I just hope there is nothing lingering that my bench supply's current limiting is covering up.
Only on the one I was trying to figure out the rotation direction with for my esc to motor soldering.

So I armed my copter, this gave out a 1150ms signal, it did not turn smoothly right away so I disarmed, signal goes back to 1000ms. I armed again and that's when the FET poped but the motor kept spinning a little before I disarmed.

I then wired all 4 ESCs. And all would spin really badly and getting the motor and ESC hot in just a mattter of seconds.

I used the tgy.hex file I linked on the first post, not the one you uploaded a few days ago. I had none of this on my 30A esc and they are still working fine.

I know 10A was pushing it a little for my motors but I don't think barely spinning on the bench with no prop on would draw 12+A

Thanks simon
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Old Oct 08, 2011, 02:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nek View Post
Only on the one I was trying to figure out the rotation direction with for my esc to motor soldering.

So I armed my copter, this gave out a 1150ms signal, it did not turn smoothly right away so I disarmed, signal goes back to 1000ms. I armed again and that's when the FET poped but the motor kept spinning a little before I disarmed.

I then wired all 4 ESCs. And all would spin really badly and getting the motor and ESC hot in just a mattter of seconds.

I used the tgy.hex file I linked on the first post, not the one you uploaded a few days ago. I had none of this on my 30A esc and they are still working fine.

I know 10A was pushing it a little for my motors but I don't think barely spinning on the bench with no prop on would draw 12+A

Thanks simon
Yeah, it shouldn't matter even if you had a 50A motor on it, as long as you didn't crank up the PWM to outside of the ESC rating. Something else must be the matter, like the pinout is different on those boards, or they changed something. Are you sure you didn't get some newer revision one with all nFETs or something? Maybe you could attach a picture of both sides of one of the ones with a broken fet. I definitely wouldn't mess with that any further without some kind of current limiting (eg: 12V light bulb) in series with the power supply.
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Old Oct 08, 2011, 03:15 AM
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You know that's funny.
I blew up my Rc timer 10a as well.
I thought I did something wrong.
Symptom was similar... The motor barely spin and smokey.
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Old Oct 08, 2011, 04:22 AM
Nek
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Originally Posted by timecop View Post
You know that's funny.
I blew up my Rc timer 10a as well.
I thought I did something wrong.
Symptom was similar... The motor barely spin and smokey.
And this is very weird, as the first esc I flashed was a 10A! And it worked just fine on the bench with a prop and playing around with a gyro to see reaction speeds. Very strange all this...
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Old Oct 08, 2011, 04:23 AM
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I've got 5 more on the way, so never fear.
I will take the smoked one apart and use it to trace the connections, but I think if it beeps and spins on bench, there's not much that could be done wrong.
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Old Oct 08, 2011, 11:51 AM
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Did my ESCs (RCtimer 20A) today, good results, thanks!
Pinout are the same as for the turningy 25A pictured earlier in this thread.
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Old Oct 08, 2011, 01:58 PM
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I also did my rc timer 30A. I used the file from the first post and it works great. It made a big difference. No more clicking sounds.
Is there any better firmware i should have used?
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Old Oct 08, 2011, 02:01 PM
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BTW do you now if the rctimer 10a is the same as the turnigy plush 10A ?
I have two turnigy in stock, I need 2 more for my quad but there are out of stock
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Old Oct 08, 2011, 03:29 PM
Nek
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Originally Posted by Cid156 View Post
BTW do you now if the rctimer 10a is the same as the turnigy plush 10A ?
I have two turnigy in stock, I need 2 more for my quad but there are out of stock
Their older versions were the same. Plush could be a newer version that does not use an Atmega8. If your 2 plush have an Atmega8 then the RCT 10A are most likely the same.

In a couple days I will flash my RCT 18A and see how it goes...

tigar, there is a newer tgy.hex compiled by simon a few days ago. I will most likely try this one on one of the 18A to see how it goes. I am also using the old tgy.hex in my RCT 30A and they work great!
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Old Oct 09, 2011, 02:13 AM
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Atlanta, GA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slowswede View Post
Do you use avrdude or avrstudio? Have some problems with avrdude and a bit confused about settings in avrstudio, I can only program the flash memory, not eeprom
I used avrdude since I didn't want to install AVRStudio.
Here are the command lines I used:
Code:
avrdude -c avrispmkII -P usb -p m8 -U flash:w:tgy.hex
avrdude -c avrispmkII -P usb -p m8 -U lfuse:w:0x84:m
avrdude -c avrispmkII -P usb -p m8 -U hfuse:w:0xd9:m
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