I bought a new DLE 20cc Gasser and I'm having problems with the throttle. During setup I adjusted the throttle travel on the servo so that it will open all the way and close all the way when I move the transmitter stick. Once I started the plane for the first time, I noticed that at 1/3 throttle the engine was already running at full RPM. The Idle was normal.
This is my first gasser and everything I've learned has been on countless hours of reading here through these threads but can’t find anything on this problem. Since I'm a rookie with these gassers I didn’t adjust any of the needles from factory. Is it simply just needle adjustment or do I have to set the travel of the servo a lot less? Please Help.
By the way, the engine started on a dime great little engine.

From what I understand this is kind of a characteristic of the gas engines. I've heard some will introduce a throttle curve to help smooth out the transition from low speed to high. Make sure you have the correct size prop so as not to load the engine to much reducing the RPM at WOT.

Hopefully, someone will be along shortly to confirm this info as I'm not 100% sure of it all.

Ken

You need to set the throttle up as close to the diagram at this link. Scroll down the page to post 21 for the diagram. You might want to read the whole thread seeing as its your first gasser.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8673009/tm.htm#

Yeah, that I think is pretty normal. You might notice the upper part of the stick gives a bit more of an increase in the air.

Using a throttle curve will give you a more linear response.

You can get it a lot better without a throttle curve if you follow the directions on the link. You need the servo arms at as close to the length as possible and the servo arm facing exactly like the pic in the diagam and the same with the throttle arm at idle make sure you use the measurement. With the throttle arm set as the diagram you will see it will come into the power a lot slower and your full throttle will be a lot closer to at least 3/4 or better on the transmitter.

Hope this will help from the gasser forums . Not my doing . Cheers the pope

Originally Posted by the pope

Hope this will help from the gasser forums . Not my doing . Cheers the pope

oops just noticed its been posted already

Regarding that diagram, it's demonstrating the extreme differential required to get a gas throttle tamed down to the point it's somewhat linear, like a nitro engine might be, de sensitizing the lower half of the stick travel. We're spreading that first half of the THROTTLE travel out across nearly the entire length of the STICK travel! The carb will open completly, but the last 30-40% happens very quickly, as the stick approaches the top of it's travel.

In practice though, if you like to use an idle cutoff switch/setup to shut your engine down by closing the throttle completely (in addition to an opti switch?), that diagram doesn't allow for much adjustment at the lowest throttle settings. In practice, a better plan might be to rotate the servo back away from the carb 20 degrees or so (like the second one down in the diagram). This allows for the required differential to allow what we're trying to do, and also allows some adjustment to get the throttle shut off adjusted properly. -Al

To all responders,

My plan is to install a Tech Aero ignition battery eliminator curcuit (IBEC) with one Hobbico LiFe battery powering both the engine ignition at just under 6.0 volts, as well as powering the receiver and servos at 6.6 volts. The IBEC allows for the engine to be shut down via the flick of a switch instead of with the throttle trim. I will most likely assign this throttle cutoff to the gear switch on my Hitec Aurora 9 TX.

Thank you everyone for your advice on my DLE 20 question.

It looks like I will have to install a bell crank in the compartment behind the firewall in order to make the choke work.

John T.

hello all,

My apologies. I posted my response here instead of where it belongs at the DLE 20 throttle arm extension post above.

John T.

Originally Posted by ahicks

Regarding that diagram, it's demonstrating the extreme differential required to get a gas throttle tamed down to the point it's somewhat linear, like a nitro engine might be, de sensitizing the lower half of the stick travel. We're spreading that first half of the THROTTLE travel out across nearly the entire length of the STICK travel! The carb will open completly, but the last 30-40% happens very quickly, as the stick approaches the top of it's travel.

In practice though, if you like to use an idle cutoff switch/setup to shut your engine down by closing the throttle completely (in addition to an opti switch?), that diagram doesn't allow for much adjustment at the lowest throttle settings. In practice, a better plan might be to rotate the servo back away from the carb 20 degrees or so (like the second one down in the diagram). This allows for the required differential to allow what we're trying to do, and also allows some adjustment to get the throttle shut off adjusted properly. -Al

Mine works fine just the way the first pic shows in the diagram. If you go 20 percent you eill not get full throttle. I have done tryed. And you will be defeating the purpose. I am at 90 degree to the carb output and a few clicks of trim and im at my idle and it shuts down either way with my opto or my throttle cut. Guess you just have to be mechanically inclined and know what you are doing.

Originally Posted by unclecrash

Mine works fine just the way the first pic shows in the diagram. If you go 20 percent you eill not get full throttle. I have done tryed. And you will be defeating the purpose. I am at 90 degree to the carb output and a few clicks of trim and im at my idle and it shuts down either way with my opto or my throttle cut. Guess you just have to be mechanically inclined and know what you are doing.

If that were the case, that diagram wouldn't be necessary?

Ya and if it were the case to use your method of 20% once again Jedi would have never posted the diagram. You make no sence telling one to start at the second diagram. The engine is sitting there with the carb closed. So this is the starting point. Why would you not be able to adjust the idle up or use the throttle shut down or the opto. YOU DO NOT NEED TO LOWER THE THROTTLE ANY FURTHER PERIOD. For shut off it is at shut off when it is set at the diagram unless you forgot to remove your throttle idle screw. I think you need more hands on and less reading on the puter Why would you try to change what is proven to work. Al why start at 20 degree there is no point with the carb closed OFF is OFF it cannot go any further. So the engine does not run when setup like the diagram's first pic. So you get it out adjust the stick up a bit to start then set the idle on the trim till you can get the stick to zero and hold idle. There is no need to start at 20 degree. if I can hold an idle at 5 or 10 degree thats better I have that much more travel of the servo to reach full throttle. The opto wll work and so will the engine cut !!

Originally Posted by ahicks

If that were the case, that diagram wouldn't be necessary?

And for two I don't need the diagram to setup my planes, but there are some who do so I posted it. Been playing with this stuff for many moons. Im almost got the gray hair like you Oh and I do now the exacty house you live in so watch what you say. Oh I bet you don't know that about me

The diagram's purpose (as discussed several other times with other seemingly competent fliers) is to demonstrate the extreme differential required to do what we're talking about. Adjusted/set up exactly the way the diagram illustrates, adjustment of your shut off point via the throttle trim will be next to impossible (for most of us mere mortals?). Simple as that. Maybe going 20 degrees isn't necessary, maybe I should have said 10 to 20 degrees? Split hairs all you like, it doesn't change my point.

If you'd like to continue this discussion, let's do it off line, out of respect for others that might not be so entertained by our conversation? -Al