Originally Posted by jj604

Thought I might use the very thin double sided tape that the scrap bookers use.

Do you cover the entire piece or just the edges, ...?

I love Por but it is hard to get it completely thin and even over a large flat surface.

Ever try thinning UHU with Naptha?

Ever try Rubber Cement?

Gene K

Originally Posted by speedy01

Jon,

I'll be trying a three bladed prop on my FW-190...and a four blader on the P-51. Have you tried either of those?

Gene K

I havent tried 3 or 4 I must admit. I went with a two bladed 5030 because it gives the greatest efficiency with the chosen motor according to the motor manufacturers.

The two problems I can envisage is firstly having to hack the supplied spinner to get it to fit, but I know a man of your skills would be able to create his own anyway, the other is that the motor would become a lot less efficient with the extra resistance.

I would certainly be interested to see your results tho but stick the 2 bladed on first as a comparison.

Jon

Originally Posted by jj604

Jon, a thought about assembly.

Having now seen what needs to be glued, it is really a laminating task.

Thought I might use the very thin double sided tape that the scrap bookers use. It's cheap and extremely light. Effectively it is just a thin layer of adhesive. I have used it successfully to put Easystar/Bixlers together and it is quite strong.

Would be simpler and neater than UHU Por for this application I suspect. I love Por but it is hard to get it completely thin and even over a large flat surface.

Also you might think about a bit more info in the kit about adhesives. Even a small additional paper slip. The only reference is to "glue" and " foam safe". For many people that would mean CA, polyurethane expanding or even hot glue! UHU Por is not common in some parts of the world - especially minor third world countries like the US and Australia.

Keep the videos coming. Great start.

John

Cheers John,

I should have another vid coming soon. I hear you about the glue. UHU por just seems to be a little more versatile than others. You can use it for sticking depron parts together, securing the control horns onto rudder & elevator and even to add more stickiness to stickers if they've lost their tack.

But the idea was for people to use whatever they have to hand as long as it's foam safe. As long as it sticks the parts together without melting anything, then its good!

I normally just do a 'snail trail' round the edges and a few thin splodges inside. If UHU por is left to dry it will go to almost nothing but grab as soon as it comes into contact with another layer, especially if that layer has also got a thin, 'dry' layer of UHU on too.

I add extra gule to the areas that need extra stick like in the nose area and such.

The site and planes are a work of art! nice job-

doug

Gene, for other applications I have used it on complete surfaces. Haven't played around with this kit yet.

Zippo lighter fluid is my favourite UHU Por accessory! Works brilliantly for repairing mylar covered wings like the Vapor. I think I owe that to your suggestion once on the forums.

Never tried rubber cement but I have a selection of similar adhesives - some with instructions only in Chinese.

Give scrapbook tape a try. It comes in various widths from about 1/4" up and is so easy to use for laminating jobs. It is not really "tape" but just a layer of thin adhesive that works like double sided tape - very light and cheap as anything as well.

Originally Posted by speedy01

Do you cover the entire piece or just the edges, ...?

Ever try thinning UHU with Naptha?

Ever try Rubber Cement?

Gene K

Originally Posted by deadbird

. I went with a two bladed 5030 because it gives the greatest efficiency ....

Undoubtedly, but it appears you have plenty of excess power. I prefer a more scale look over un-scale performance.

Before I put a four bladed prop on my UM Mustang, I had read the warnings about how a that prop would yada, yada, yada. However, I have absolutely no problem, for example, looping it -- with tanks on yet!

The Parkzone Spitfire four bladed props should be out soon, and the UM Corsair three blade props are available, so they may be candidates for a starting point. (I haven't checked how large a 1/24 scale prop should be for the FW-190 (which I hope is waiting for me next week).

Gene K

Originally Posted by jj604

Give scrapbook tape a try.

Do you plan to use the tape just around the perimeter, or cover the whole back of the graphics?

Gene K

Sorry, Gene mustn't have been clear. I wasn't thinking of using it on the graphics but only where glue is specified for laminating two pieces of Depron as in the rudder and fuselage sides.

John

Originally Posted by speedy01

Do you plan to use the tape just around the perimeter, or cover the whole back of the graphics?

Gene K

Originally Posted by speedy01

Undoubtedly, but it appears you have plenty of excess power. I prefer a more scale look over un-scale performance.

I thought because it was a 2D plane I could remove 2 of the blades

I'm with you on scale performance tho Gene. With these two models you definately need to manage the 'energy' to perform some of the combat maneouvers the real aircraft performed. I not only wanted these planes to look more realistic, I wanted a bit of the character of the real aircraft to come thru too.

For example, when performing an aileron roll in the Mustang you have to throw in a hand full of down elevator when inverted to stop the nose dropping. A characteristic that many of the Merlin engined aircraft had performing the exact same maneouver.

If anyone can get scale props to work, you can my friend! Have you looked at the 5x3x3 from GWS?

Long shot, but any local Sydney Microace builders, I have excess posh glue if you want some. Uhu por, 2 tubes.

You assist me with my AR6400L & mounting the pushrods I might give you a tube free. I need patiance, small fingered modeler. No alcho's or baja drivers.

Originally Posted by jj604

I wasn't thinking of using it on the graphics..

Opps...I'd better remain silent until I get my kit so I can speak intelligently (yes, that would be a change).

Gene

Well, apart from adjusting the thrust angle and maidening it, my fw190 is done.

Got to say I really enjoyed the build and there are times when you look at it and think, "that's genius!"

A couple of comments for future builders to be aware of and maybe for Jon to have a think about.

Do not be tempted to go it alone and build in a different order to to instructions, you'll end up cursing yourself when you realise that there's a reason for the order.

Jons tip on using tweezers for the stickers is a top one. The stickers are very sticky and using your fingers will invariably take the sticky ness off them.

Foam safe CA and kicker worked for me, no need to overdo it, the stickers hold everything together very well.

Remember to convert your AR6400 to brushless setting. There's no mention of this in the manual and much head scratching eventually resulted in a "Doh!" moment!

Lastly for Jon, there was one place in the instructions where a sticker number was missing, and my kit didn't have the motor mount screws. Niether of these were big problems and for a new product the whole package is remarkably complete and well finished.

Thoroughly enjoyed it and very pleased with the end product. I'll let you know how the maiden goes, hopefully tonight at our indoor session.

Chris

Originally Posted by chris jones

Lastly for Jon, there was one place in the instructions where a sticker number was missing, and my kit didn't have the motor mount screws. Niether of these were big problems and for a new product the whole package is remarkably complete and well finished.

Thoroughly enjoyed it and very pleased with the end product. I'll let you know how the maiden goes, hopefully tonight at our indoor session.

Chris

Hi Chris many thanks for the feedback. Top man. Good luck with the maiden.

I have been made aware of the number missing in the manual which will be rectified in the next print run. Kept the runs short just incase some issues had been missed. There is a similar issue in the P51 manual as well. Cant get everything right first time I guess (dont tell the wife!)

Your comments re the brushless switch over on the Rx have made me think I need to add a page to the manual for the Rx setup too. I have found that the AR6400 also needs servo reversing but the AR6400L seems to be OK as is.

The motor mounting screws are packaged in with the ESC. There's a corner of the bag thats been seperately sealed with the 3 x 5mm screws in. If you didnt chuck the bag you'll probably find them in there.

Next order I make of motors and ESCs I will ask the manufacturers to bag them seperately in with the motor as this would be much more logical.

Jon

Second video on the build of the Microaces Kit. I think the presenter is getting worse. Maybe a few beers beforehand might improve things

This video is all about handling the Depron and Sticker material.

MICROACES - Depron & the Stickers (9 min 1 sec)

Jon

Originally Posted by deadbird

The motor mounting screws are packaged in with the ESC. There's a corner of the bag thats been seperately sealed with the 3 x 5mm screws in. If you didnt chuck the bag you'll probably find them in there.

Next order I make of motors and ESCs I will ask the manufacturers to bag them seperately in with the motor as this would be much more logical.

Jon

Ah well, my mistake, didn't think to look there! Didn't detract from a great product anyway!