Hi Jay,

If you ask me, you have an geometry issue. because I had have the same problem.
I also has had the blades even when at zero pitch but when at 8 degree at 1 set of blades the other set was something differed aproxx 10 degree and the blades make a lot of noise and poor stopping power.

The cause in my case was not a proper geometry between the two blade sets and the sulution was to make the linkage between the blades parallel with the tail shaft.
Just by adding spacers (two M2 nuts) between the blade grips pivots see photo,
and shorten the other blade grips pivots by apros 1.5mm



Now the blades are staying nearly paralleled between the two sets and the noise are (almost) gone by max stroke with hard rudder, but now the stopping power are enough but keep the head speed high as possible.
Now its OK

Then your X tail can not make it to the real scale degree because your linkage will bind then so you have to make it the best out of two given facts

The next photo was the old setup without the spacers giving the bad results.



You can easily seen that the linkage are not parallel at all with the tail shaft.
POOR geometry.

Hope this will answer your question Jay,

Regards from Holland,

Jan,

Originally Posted by Horseman

Hi Jay,

If you ask me, you have an geometry issue. because I had have the same problem.
I also has had the blades even when at zero pitch but when at 8 degree at 1 set of blades the other set was something differed aproxx 10 degree and the blades make a lot of noise and poor stopping power.

The cause in my case was not a proper geometry between the two blade sets and the sulution was to make the linkage between the blades parallel with the tail shaft.
Just by adding spacers (two M2 nuts) between the blade grips pivots see photo,
and shorten the other blade grips pivots by apros 1.5mm



Now the blades are staying nearly paralleled between the two sets and the noise are (almost) gone by max stroke with hard rudder, but now stopping power enough but keep the head speed high as possible.
Now its OK

Then your X tail can not make it to the real scale degree because your linkage will bind then so you have to make it the best out of two given facts

The next photo was the old setup without the spacers giving the bad results.



You can easily seen that the linkage are not parallel at all with the tail shaft.
POOR geometry.

Hope this will answer your question Jay,

Regards from Holland,

Jan,

thanks jan i might give this a shot tomorrow. cheers!

Hi Jay,

Kin is making a new tail drive with an other ratio 1 to 1.25 if I'm correct so with that gear we can (if we like) bring the main gear speed down without losing tail response.

Jan,

does anyone remember the length they used on the shafts for the long and short section of the raised tail kit

Originally Posted by jdm2ner

does anyone remember the length they used on the shafts for the long and short section of the raised tail kit

Sorry I did not make a note of it

Jan,

Originally Posted by jdm2ner

does anyone remember the length they used on the shafts for the long and short section of the raised tail kit

No need ask ! i can special make the length for you , i can cut the length you like !

Originally Posted by Horseman

Hi Jay,

Kin is making a new tail drive with an other ratio 1 to 1.25 if I'm correct so with that gear we can (if we like) bring the main gear speed down without losing tail response.

Jan,

Hi Kin,

Any news about your new gears?

Jan,

Hi guys,

Here some more detail photos from my work I did at the fuse,















As you can see these little pencil lines and dots can do a lot on a model.

Now some more dirt on it and it starts to get really nice.

Regards,

Jan,

What did you use as rivets?

/jack

such fine detail jan looks awesome!

Originally Posted by viggen65

What did you use as rivets?

/jack

Hi Jack,

Just a pencil, I draw the rivets

Jan,

thats interesting, how do you make them permanent..clearcoat?

cheers
Jack

Originally Posted by viggen65

thats interesting, how do you make them permanent..clearcoat?

cheers
Jack

Yep if you don't it will fade away but I also want to weather it a bit more.
But not to much what always is a difficult one with weathering.

After I done that I will use a matt clearcoat to protect the paint.

Regards,

Jan,

Originally Posted by Horseman

Yep if you don't it will fade away but I also want to weather it a bit more.
But not to much what always is a difficult one with weathering.

After I done that I will use a matt clearcoat to protect the paint.

Regards,

Jan,

Ok,never seen that inovative method before,congrats to very a nice rivetjob!

Cheers
Jack

Originally Posted by viggen65

Ok,never seen that inovative method before,congrats to very a nice rivetjob!

Cheers
Jack

Thanks Jack,

I have done it ones before (and for the first time) on a ME 262







And that turned out very well so why not on a helicopter

Jan,