|
|
|
|
United States, NC, Lexington
Joined Jan 2013
7 Posts
|
Turbo Ace Quad users.
I have created a FREE photo Gallery for the Turbo Ace Cummunity. Gallery Project's portfolio of intuitive photo, video and audio sharing web application solutions. I hope this helps the Turbo Ace community as much as you have helped me. VidsForU is up and running and waiting on your Videos and photos ... |
|
|
|
|
|||||
|
|
Thanks.Two obvious problems with the landing: 1. Came in hot 2. Came in high and the plastic I put on the belly makes it slide forever on concrete.
I just upgraded the iOSD to the lastest version and was disappointed.. No GPS logging, rudimentary flight logging, and OSD is just barely modiable.. you can only shift what they give you in a bit. Although far cheaper than the WK-M, these other flight controllers have some really cool capabilities still not found in the WK Groundstation: Dragonlink. The OSD of this is superb and insanely customizable. I like mine minimalistic.
ArduPilotMega 2 Flight planning, waypoints, and photogrammetry are way beyond WK-M. The minimOSD I use on this is also highly programmable and comes with a nice programming interface.
Common' DJI.. hurry up and catch up. |
||||
|
|||||
|
|
|
|
|
Guys!
Yesterday was a GOOD DAY! In fact, it was an EXCEPTIONALLY AWESOME DAY!! FINALLY.. after nearly 3 months of problematic gear (mostly my 1st Quad), repeated crashes and Mega$$ trying to get off the ground.. My relentless determination to enjoy some flying, FPV and do some Aerial Video has -at last- paid off. Yesterday, February 14th, 2013 has definitely been a landmark day for me! I soared like the Hawk! Finally, I enjoyed my very 1st successful FPV Climax and got some Aerial footage, which although by comparison to most of you, Sukt.. but the point of Joy for me was just the fact that I was able to DO IT!! Observations and Lessons Learned.. Upon getting all my parts the 1st thing I noticed was that the landing gear I had ordered apparently is not that of the X830-F, but rather the one for the X830-D as it is much taller. I didn’t see any different skids offered for this specific model so Im guessing they might not be available and these that came with my “F” were just cut shorter and customized. Personally, I like these longer/taller skids much better as it gives me more room around and below the Cam mount for my FPV antenna, batteries and whatever else. However.. something that was immediately noticeable, these longer/taller skids also have the drawback that they are very weak & shaky considering the amount of weight they have to hold up, and higher up. The narrow placement between each landing gear is also a crucial factor which gives the Quad a very precarious, unstable center of gravity. Still, I like them much better than the shorter ones and my temp resolve to keep them sturdy was to use my “extended” DIY anti-tipping skids which protrude far beyond the skids both front, rear and sides. Fastened to the landing gear at each end gave the skids much better stability. This additional height also allowed me to place my FPV antenna in another location and from what I could tell, there was only nominal EMI interference in my AV signal and apparently no issues with the Naza/GPS. Of course, prior to attempting any flight, during and after re-assembling the Quad last night I made a comprehensive triple-check of Everything! All the wires, connections, plugs, screws, nuts & bolts. Did a meticulous examination of each prop, under a large (jewelers) UV illuminated magnifying glass.. Found no stress fissures, fractures or any other issues of concern. Subsequently I checked and re-balanced each prop. Once re-assembled I also did a thorough bench test to make sure everything was working as should be. In total I was able to do 3 successful, exhilarating flights lasting about 14 mins each. That brings us back to the batteries and flight time issue – Im not getting the 20+ mins as has been claimed. If I factor in my geographic altitude, full loaded weight, weak props and crappy batteries.. Ok, Im short about 6+ mins on my flight time. Im going to tackle this issue and try several tweaks, different batteries, CF or wood props and see what happens! I really didn’t take the time to make everything nice and neat, so for these tests I just used crude tie-strap, off balance gear placement & tape rigging. The 1st test flight was bare bones with no added gear to check all systems and make sure He was flying stable and smooth. Had no problems whatsoever, everything was running perfectly, I also didn’t detect any vibes or unusual wobbles. On the 2nd flight I added the Sony 660 Board-cam for FPV. This came with 2 lenses, a wide angle like the GoPro and a regular lens with no perspective distortion – and that’s the one I used. NOW I can see why everyone seems to favor using this type of lens/cam for FPV! The realistic and undistorted perspective makes all the difference in the World – WOW! It was an AWESOME experience!! I wonder though.. from looking at the various settings available in the GoPro, I believe seeing one that indicates: “1080p – Medium FOV” Havent tried it yet but I need to check out all the various settings to see if I can eliminate the board-cam and reduce my overall payload as much as possible. On my 3rd flight I decided to go with a full payload, using both the GoPro and the board-cam. I had serious concerns if He would be able to handle that much weight, and for how long.. Amazing.. the full weight load, even though poorly distributed, didn’t cause any problems at all. The flight was smooth and stable. However.. I could tell all that weight was a significant burden on those plastic props. This just confirms what everyone has been saying about using better props for stability smoother flight and less strain on the motors.. Although costly, I think it’s going to be worth the $$ to go for some CF props, or better yet.. as an alternative Im looking into lightweight wood, specifically designed for multi-rotors from someone Ive been talking to who can do the 10mm bore. I dedicate this video (coming soon! ) as a tribute to BAT, JENG, KERand all you guys for helping and sticking with me as Ive fumbled, crashed and clawed my way to get to this point.. You all have my sincere Gratitude!! QUESTION..? After yesterdays awesome experience I went out again today with some of the guys from the Flight-Club.. Just for Giggles-n-Grins I decided to use the batteries from my other Quad for my first test and systems check flight.. They are the NanoTech 3300 mAh 35-50C 3S.. FAR less heavy & bulky than those 2 huge bricks (5500 mAh) that came with my X830.. I figured that at most I’d be around 5 mins or less flight time, perfect for a quickie test. To my absolute astonishment.. 15 mins later I was barely starting to get a Batt-Low warning.. I’m getting about the same 14-15 min flight time with those heavy bricks.. HOW is this possible..? Now I’m just dumbfounded! CHEERS!! Rick~ |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Every multicopter has a sweet spot with battery capacity vs total weight.
I've got two 5300mah lipos on my Octo for a total of 10600mah and get 13min flight time. I've added an additional two 5300mah lipos 21200mah and got no extra flight time at all; still 13min. Turns out the extra weight of the other two lipos caused the amp draw (lipo depletion rate) to double. If you've got an amp meter (which is a highly worthwhile investment), you can find the sweet spot using a small lipo and continually adding extra weight and finding out what the amp draw is at those weights. It should look like a bell curve with the first half being not enough mah and the second half being two much weight. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Hi MJS88
You incriminated yourself Gotcha! You didn't read all my tutorials or you would would have known the answer to that question. ![]() Read TUTORIAL 7 Kv, Motor Designations, Kv vs. Torque and Kv vs. Propeller Choice & "C" RATINGS This will explain your question and give you some idea for experimentation how to maximize your airtime. Think of it as battery tuning. ![]() http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1670862 Go down to Tutorial 7 BTW Congratulations on your first rebuild and now a better understanding of how multicopters work. You have now moved to the next level in the multicopter world. "When you first flew multicopters you were but the learner, now you are the builder, tester and pilot". ![]() Batfire I will help you answer your question on this one but please read the tutorial so you can calculate answer. This is why you did so well on just a NanoTech 3300 mAh 35-50C 3S. When you calculate it out and then use meter that Kerbob mentioned which is a great little meter for the price you will get very very close to these figures. With X830 including Naza Gps unit. max amp draw 65 a draw based on sel. flying load % 13.0 flying time in mins. 15 flying time in mins 80% rule 12 min need of cells (C) 20 max pwr consumption (W) 722 Charge rate (A) 3.3 These figure I calculated under normal use no fancy stuff. More hovering than aggressive flying. |
|
|
|
|
Joined Jan 2013
17 Posts
|
MJS88 CONGRATS ON YOUR STELLAR RETURN TO THE AIR ABOVE!! YOU KNOW THAT BRINGS HOPE TO THOSE OF US OTHER NEWBIES WHO ARE GROUNDED. YOU HAVE TO DROP CRASHMASTER AND BECOME SOARMASTER OR ??? AND congrats on Bat moving you "officially" to level 2. No longer a newbie! Do you remember what it was like when you were still one of us?
I wanted to give an update on my situation. After a total of 4 emails WOW is sending a new motor. I sent back another email asking how they new it was the motor and they responded if it doesn't work you will have to return it to us for more diagnostics. (NEVER !!! ) . I plan to follow Bats guidelines and assess the situation this weekend and go from there. The worst thing, as you know is being grounded. I have a heli coming and two gas powered Hirobos from the old days that I want to get flying again. I couldn't resist the Skyhawk from RangeView (also bought the RTY Video setup that you use BAT) and that should be here next week (sorry about the wings). Again Rick congrats A general question. If I want to fly the Hirobos by binding them to the Devo12 I own, are all the available servos the same size? Does anyone have a recommendation for where to buy the servos, gyro etc that I need to convert the old equipment to something that will be compatable with my new Devo 12? Help Bat!! Please. . . (I am reading the tutorials but you have to know that it will take a while and multiple return trips to them. Ever think of a book Bat? It would be a gold standard!!! |
|
|
|
|
||
|
|
Quote:
Hi Pas100 Don't worry you will get there soon, just remember; "Every flight is a test flight and every crash is a lesson". Batfire Man I do not know on the Hibros, what do you have the shuttle 60pwr? I have not bound any of my Helis to the Devo so really can’t answer those questions. I have spektrum radios for all my helis. The Devo I am sure would do well just have not tried it but I do know the Devo is one of the easiest binding radios around but they are particular to what you can bind them too. Example; I've not been able to bind a MQX to a Devo radio but binds easily to a spektrum radio. Sorry no books in future, just tutorials and articles to help the rc community if possible. The best I could probably do would be a kid’s book. “See dad fly his quadcopter. See dad crash his quadcopter. See dad jump up and down and run around in circles yelling colorful metaphors to his quadcopter. See quadcopter does not respond to dad. Dad is sad and unhappy." There are too many really intelligent individuals in this hobby and on this thread that would do a much better job writing a book on mulitcopters than I could ever dream of doing. |
|
|
|
|
|
Joined Apr 2012
36 Posts
|
Hi Bat; (and everyone
![]() I was having a problem with my X830s a couple weeks ago and cannot seem to solve it. It’s like tiny random power surges to the motors (all 4) that cause the craft to wildly jump (usually to the left.) I can actually hear the surges with and without the props on, even with no vibration. Here’s what I know: It seems to happen at a particular RPM. It happens to all motors; I tested them independently (one at a time.) All wiring seems to be OK. Here’s what you should know: This is the craft that hit the ground from about 250 ft. in the Mojave Desert. The only parts from that crashed unit are: 2 ESC’s, the receiver, the gyro, the flight controller, and all the wires. The TX system is Walkera DEVO-10 The Flight controller and Gyro are Xaircraft. I am at the point where I may purchase another unit and use this one as parts. Also; can I run my wires over the arm instead of through? Thank you so much for your help, I am pretty lost. Rob Neep |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Hi Robneep,
A few ideas but not sure without inspecting copter. ALL TEST WITH BLADES OFF PLEASE ![]() 1. Surging is known if clogged barometer hole on AHRS. Verify AHRS clean inside and outside and barometer free to breath. 2. Check since rebuild that you have AHRS on a pad not hard mounted on FC which might be hard mounted to copter which may cause the same issue and even failure if severe enough vibration from hard mount to frame. 3. Check if wiring from AHRS to FC is defective which I have had happen, you can't even tell without pulling each wire to make sure its tight in plug housing. Don't forget to check the receptacle itself if bent prong. 4. Possible damaged AHRS which may need to be replaced. If none of those are issue continue; PLEASE WRITE DOWN ALL RESULTS OR VIDEO THE TEST IF YOU WISH. FIRST TEST Can you connect up your copter to XA Center and go to AHRS screen after copter bubble leveled and re-run the calibration of the AHRS? Then while it is sitting there after calibration run the ahrs data oscilloscope first doing a good long GYRO CHECK using following method. 1. Select Pitch Angle, Roll Angle and Yaw Angle only. 2. Click the “Start” button. 3. Simulate flight attitude by tilting and spinning AHRS Module as follows. 1. Pitch. Tilt AHRS Module on pitch direction to find out whether the appropriate curve motion on oscilloscope accords with your move. Pitch curve will be on the ±30°roughly when tilts to 30° forward/backward. 2. Roll. Tilt AHRS Module on roll direction to find out whether the appropriate curve motion on oscilloscope accords with your move. Roll curve will be on the ±30°roughly when tilts to 30°on the left/right for example. 3. Yaw. Spin AHRS to change heading to find out whether the appropriate curve motion on oscilloscope accords with your move. Spin curve will be on the ±30°roughly when spin to 30°on the left/right. Now set the copter back down and leave connected and recording for 5mins monitoring for the glitch in gyros. SECOND TEST Acceleration sensor check; 1. Select X Accel, Y Accel and Z Accel only. 2. Click the "Start" button. 3. Simulate flight attitude by tilting AHRS Module as follows; 1. When AHRS put on a level surface, Z axis value is 1 and the X, Y axis is 0. 2. Roll. Tilt AHRS Module on roll direction to find out whether Y curves fluctuations on oscilloscope accords with your move. When tilt to 90°on left/right nearly, it shows ±1 value on Y axis and 0 on the X and Z. 3. Pitch. Tilt AHRS Module on pitch direction to find out whether X curve fluctuations on oscilloscope accords with your move. When tilt to 90°forward/backward nearly, it shows ±1value on X axis and 0 on the Y and Z. 4. When wobbling AHRS severely, there will be one curve among X/Y/Z of which peak value exceeds ±1. set the copter back down and leave connected and recording for 5mins monitoring for the glitch in Acceleration sensor mode. Once you have done this let me know what you get and if you still see your glitch. If you still have problem then here are more recommendations before giving up on AHRS. First make sure you are running this firmware on board; FC1212-S V1.33, AHRS-S V1.23 You should have your zip drive that came with copter so check that also for the firmware you have loaded in FC currently. If you have this firmware continue. If you do not have this firmware then we need to load this firmware onto FC and AHRS. See below; If on-board firmware is same as above. 1. We can try reloading firmware to AHRS. Connect to usb to dongle to AHRS only. This means if you have regular hookup disconnect cable from back of dongle to FC and reconnect that to the AHRS link slot. Redownload firmware AHRS-S V1.23 to the AHRS. Reconnect all back up after completion and verify on screen and you have disconnected from XA center. 2. Now go back into XACenter after you are back to connections as you started and reconnect usb to dongle connection. Verify all is lighting up as should be and go to AHRS screen and do a bubble level on copter then click calibrate. Once recalibrated see if you have issue any longer. If you still have issue then go back to start. Reload all firmware back on FC and Ahrs again together this time without disconnecting dongle to individually load. Again after completion verify first in RC screens everything still correctly hooked up. Then go to ahrs screen and bubble level copter and recalibrate again. Now bench test and see if glitches come back. This should solve the problem unless hardware issue.. If hardware open pocket book buy NAZA WITH GPS HOOKUP AND BE HAPPY. ![]() ![]() Just a note; Notice TUTORIAL 4 troubleshooting issues. I had someone else with similar problems and this was final solution to correct AHRS issue. This will walk you through the above comments on reloading AHRS and FC. |
|
|
|
|
Joined Jan 2013
17 Posts
|
Bat in response to your note. I think that you are being a bit too modest. But that is the Bat. . . I was thinking that the servos and receiver that WOW sells for repairs on the V500D01 (which I should have in my dirty hands on Monday, I think that I mentioned that I bought one) would be fine in the Hirobo Eagle. Obviously this will bind to the Devo 12, but what I don't know yet is if the size of the servos (i.e. will I be able to just substitute them into the slots where I have the old original Futaba analog servos). If they are the same size it is just going to be a real training (for me) experience to program the Hirobo on the Devo. I actually love the idea but wouldnt mind if someone experienced in the setup was available to speak with. I can't tell you the name of the gas motor that I have installed, but at the time it was a hot pick and very powerful. Would be a kick to use now. Otherwise two neat Hirobo Helis are only good as decorations (i.e. junk).
|
|
|
|
|
||
|
|
Quote:
I think the Hirobo ran a 60 size motor man that was a time ago I would think it would not matter on the servo size as much as whether it is digital or analog. I think you have to go in an set your different throws anyway on your Tx so should not matter. What I have had issue with in FC systems is digital vs analog with servos. Man Xa stuff doesn't like digital servos at all. Im still looking one day to buy the Mongoose as a drone copter but have no room to put it at this point. I have run out of room ![]() I did buy that spyhawk but still in shipping box, haven't had time to look at it and buried in 3 feet of snow so no outside playing anyway. More snow tonight![]() BTW you could always convert those to electric with a little work. These guys still carry the parts instock for those. http://www.modelhelicopters.co.uk/he...gle-freya.html |
|
|
||
|
| Thread Tools | |
Similar Threads
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Discussion Turbo Ace X720 Quad... | GGoodrum | Multirotor Talk | 1083 | Apr 01, 2013 09:36 PM |
| Help! M120d01 ESC burning hot with Turbo Ace 26 | Horenus | Micro Helis | 16 | Feb 02, 2012 11:22 AM |
| Sold CNC Upgraded MCPX and Turbo Ace Dual Case | cgsoldier | Aircraft - Electric - Helis (FS/W) | 4 | Oct 09, 2011 07:49 PM |
| Sold Turbo Ace X720 QuadCopter - Bind N Fly | smokeytbear | Aircraft - Electric - Multirotor (FS/W) | 3 | Sep 30, 2011 10:01 PM |
| Question Can I use this Turbo Ace motor? | JeremyT | Electric Heli Talk | 3 | Sep 19, 2011 06:32 PM |