I've just been to the west country motorhome & US RV show, the guy running the show wanted some aerial photos so I fixed my key cam on as well and took this video using my #11 key camera, after editing it on WLMM I saved it to computer at only 40mbpm but I'm still impressed with this camera,
a few years ago I had the #3 key cam but had quite a few problems with them, when the #11 came out I bought 4 #11s thinking I would be having the same sort of problems, that was at least 2 years ago and I'm still using the first out of the package, the other 3 cams I check the batteries from time to time, the one I'm using has had 100s of recharges and still going strong, last weekend I forgot to switch it off and it was still running after 45 minutes !! well pleased with the #11

Shepton Mallet Motorhome & US RV show, 07 09 2012 (6 min 26 sec)

ray

Originally Posted by finster

A comparison video between #11 and #16...youtube link here...

As of yesterday it is no longer possible to compare video from the #11 or #18 to the #16.

The new #16 firmware allows individual tweaking of the colors and is fully plug-and-play. You can make the colors as saturated or washed-out as you want - within limits of course. The GUI provides 5 different slider controls for adjusting exposure, white balance, contrast, saturation and color options.

I have been using the N011 for some months now on quads.
I get very smooth video and I am very pleased with mine.

I will get a N016 later but need other things first. More lipos are next on the list.

What is a good anti-jello mount for these cams. I have slight jello from the cam taped to the nose of my Twinstar.
Velcro? Or does that make it worse?

Originally Posted by iskess

What is a good anti-jello mount for these cams. I have slight jello from the cam taped to the nose of my Twinstar.
Velcro? Or does that make it worse?

It usually makes it worse, but there is no one mounting method that works for everyone. It's a vibration resonance issue, and different airframes have very different resonant vibration frequencies.

The best solution is to start by carefully balancing your prop. Then, shoot some video with the plane lightly held near it's CG, and step through a range of throttle settings while shouting out the stick position so it can be heard in the video. You should find a few settings that will minimize the vibration and still fly the plane. My TX throttle has a stepped spring, so I count the steps as I advance the throttle. Then later when flying, I can get the exact same throttle setting by feel (counting the steps).

I've had best results by taping the camera tightly to the Fuselage, with some thin foam rubber under it (compressed tightly with the tape). But the prop balancing has the greatest effect by mitigating the problem at the source.

Tom hit it. the best solution is to reduce the vibration to begin with.

the second best is MASS. you don't want the cam mounted "loose" you want it mounted tight. REALLY tight. the more mas you can "link" with the camera directly and physically the more energy it takes to "vibrate" it takes very little energy (relatively speaking) to vibrate the camera but a whole lot more energy to vibrate the "entire vehicle"

if you have a RESONANT vibration (ie where its not all the time only under specific conditions) then damping materials can help by altering the resonant frequency to be in a range that you won't operate it.

Originally Posted by Isoprop

As of yesterday it is no longer possible to compare video from the #11 or #18 to the #16.

The new #16 firmware allows individual tweaking of the colors and is fully plug-and-play. You can make the colors as saturated or washed-out as you want - within limits of course. The GUI provides 5 different slider controls for adjusting exposure, white balance, contrast, saturation and color options.

I checked out the new firmware for the #16 and I ended up right back at the standard default settings being the best...the only way to make video better was to add one click higher saturation...that puts it at the same coloring as the #11 or #18 which was my only complaint as the colors of the #16 looked a bit washed out...so far none of the other settings I tried looked natural...but im still working at it

most of the other settings won't look natural as you found out the camera actually does a pretty good job.

BUT there are times where it might be useful. flying near twilight? might help to adjust the stop a bit. flying indoors under odd lighting might help to mess with the white balance etc..

thats exactly what I plan to do. leave it all stock but up the saturation one tick for a bit more color :-)

You can actually adjust all of these things with any reasonably competent video editor, so the #11 isn't dead yet. Me? I'm waiting for the #17 before I scrap my trusty #11.

Originally Posted by richard9999

You can actually adjust all of these things with any reasonably competent video editor, so the #11 isn't dead yet. Me? I'm waiting for the #17 before I scrap my trusty #11.

The main problem with the #11 is the color hunting. Maybe the #16 can be locked with the new firmware, then tweaked in edit.

Anyway, here's my #11 with HK Wing lens, yesterday

Estarter floats @TT (5 min 32 sec)

Originally Posted by finster

I checked out the new firmware for the #16 and I ended up right back at the standard default settings being the best...the only way to make video better was to add one click higher saturation...that puts it at the same coloring as the #11 or #18 which was my only complaint as the colors of the #16 looked a bit washed out...so far none of the other settings I tried looked natural...but im still working at it

Only another 3124 combinations to go..... The Sepia setting is REALLY cool

The point I'm trying to make is that you have thousands of different configuration possibilities with the #16, and all you need to do to set them is to plug your camera into your PC. Everything is plug-and-play - the setup GUI (program) communicates directly with the #16 and sets the values that YOU want.

The #11 comes as it is. There are a handful of different firmware versions, but that's it. It appears that development of the #11 (and #18) has come to a halt, whereas the #16 has suddenly made a gigantic leap forwards.

I still have a few #11s. I loved them in their days, but I wouldn't buy them again today.

This post is mainly aimed at newcomers. You are lucky, you know both cameras.

I mistakenly connected my new #11 USB to 12v and the magic smoke leaked out. Damn!
I think I can see the two fried components. The little black square near the USB plug have burn marks. It powers us solid red, but thats all.
Should I throw it in the trash, or are there any useful parts in there?

Also, is it really a #11, or is it a. #18?
Look at the printing I found on the PCB. It says DV81- #18.

Thank you.

lipo's....argh!

my #11 will only last around 4 mins after a charge (red light goes off when connected to usb) i have changed the lipo but has made hardly any difference

the lipo that i fitted was from another 808 that i had,

maybe this cell was also not able to hold a charge

is it possible to use the 1s 3.7v lipo This from my hobbyzone champ to power my #11?


many thanks

Originally Posted by mudcow007

lipo's....argh!

my #11 will only last around 4 mins after a charge (red light goes off when connected to usb) i have changed the lipo but has made hardly any difference

the lipo that i fitted was from another 808 that i had,

maybe this cell was also not able to hold a charge

is it possible to use the 1s 3.7v lipo This from my hobbyzone champ to power my #11?


many thanks

That battery will work but it has the wrong connector. You want one of those micro eflight type connectors. Also, it won't fit in the case, but I'm sure you planned on that.

Originally Posted by iskess

That battery will work but it has the wrong connector. You want one of those micro eflight type connectors. Also, it won't fit in the case, but I'm sure you planned on that.

fantastico!

i guessed as much for the connector an my camera is already "case-less"

i will give it ago tonight an see how long it lasts on that battery

thanks