Originally Posted by thunnus

me too please?!

Oz, cool lights. where did you get those?!

Will do.

Originally Posted by slim1357

So I decided to go for it with an antenna mod. I got the cap tombstoned briefly but how the heck do you keep it in place? It wants to stick to any metal tool I try to use. I also am having a difficult time getting any solder to stick for a ground. How did you know where to ground the braid? Do I have another option? I'm using the old 2.4 antenna from a 9X module.
Is there an easier option like a larger 100pf cap I could purchase?

Flux is my friend, it lets the solder flow and without oxidation (rust, oxide, = dull solder connectivity), it lets the solder flow and does not let it oxide (basically rust). then I clean it with acid tone, specialty with high freq, like 2,4ghz.

"Is there an easier option like a larger 100pf cap I could purchase?

Why don't you leave the cap soldered down, then cut the trace after the cap and add your own antenna, simple. A 6dbI would be directional, but should increase the range (if you point the Tx (90 degree) to the X1

Hey Guys.... what SWG cable would suffice for making a homemade JST charging lead??? I have some 16swg ,but it appears to be a tad on the thick side to my eyes.... (newbies eyes that is ;-) )
I am planning on making a 6 JST plug to XT60 charging lead...

Howdy Oz, I really need a set of lights like yours !

Please let us know where you purchased them and also how you hooked em up.

Thank you very much.

Originally Posted by slim1357

For soldering?

no, for securing the cap and wires after you soldering them.

first post on this thread, so please be kind got my x1 the other day and it's so nice to be able to fly a multi indoors. anyhow, I know there's some brave souls out there who has already modded theirs, just wanted to ask since I picked up some 600mah Hobbyking nanotechs.

Do you guys just velcro them to the bottom or is there a better way to do this. I'd still like to be able to use the stock battery too.

PS- is it ok to charge the nanotech with the included charger with the x1? I don't know if the nanotech has protection circuitry or none. Thanks in advance!

I have also used NanoTech 600 with the X1. I just stick it in the stock battery holder as a stock battery, and plug the JST in. Try keeping it in a balance position.

DO NOT charge your NanoTech with the stock charging cable. May I recommend reading the first 3 posts of this thread. You will find the answer to your question and many more useful tips there. There are also suggestions for a good charger if you don't have one already.

Hello everybody!

This is my first post on the forum, but I have been reading here for quite a while now...
I have a BMI X4 quad which is just a rebranded X1 and I have a small problem with it.
It flies very good but, it is constantly turning to the right (veering), I tried to adjust the rudder trim but it has no effect... No matter if you trim all the way to the left or right!
I brought it back to the shop and we tried another 4 remote and X1s but they were all the same. Then we paired it with a V911 remote and voila, it was immediately veering and backing!
Did somebody else experience this? Is it only with the rebranded remotes?
Is it a known problem? Some DIY, hack?
Thank you! Rgrds, D

Originally Posted by --Oz--

Flux is my friend, it lets the solder flow and without oxidation (rust, oxide, = dull solder connectivity), it lets the solder flow and does not let it oxide (basically rust). then I clean it with acid tone, specialty with high freq, like 2,4ghz.

"Is there an easier option like a larger 100pf cap I could purchase?

Why don't you leave the cap soldered down, then cut the trace after the cap and add your own antenna, simple. A 6dbI would be directional, but should increase the range (if you point the Tx (90 degree) to the X1

Well I botched it and lost the teeny capacitor anyhow. I use a rosin core solder but don't have flux. I need to step up my soldering skills for stuff like this. I put a round 100pf capacitor that I bought at radio shack in place of the original and ran a lead to the ground on the main board. Ended up with worse range than before. Oh well, I have a 9x so nothing really lost.

RE:dszegedi; Try getting the battery in position to be pushed in, place the quad on a FLAT AND LEVEL SURFACE, and then press the battery in. The quad "zeros out" very quickly. If it is at an angle when it zeros, it will always try to achieve that angle thinking it is level.

Here is an analogy: if you have a tall shoe on one foot and nothing on the other, you are going to have a hard time standing perfectly straight. I am actually thinking of making a string jig to suspend the quad in the air like a chandelier for binding in case I am somewhere without a level surface.

Originally Posted by Highly Grounded

RE:dszegedi; Try getting the battery in position to be pushed in, place the quad on a FLAT AND LEVEL SURFACE, and then press the battery in. The quad "zeros out" very quickly. If it is at an angle when it zeros, it will always try to achieve that angle thinking it is level.

Here is an analogy: if you have a tall shoe on one foot and nothing on the other, you are going to have a hard time standing perfectly straight. I am actually thinking of making a string jig to suspend the quad in the air like a chandelier for binding in case I am somewhere without a level surface.

Thanks for the quick reply!
I don't think the problem is with the gyro initialization, because I quickly turn it and let it until the led is solid red. The rate of turn is about 1min/360deg or even less. Always same direction and speed.
I think it is in the limit of this gyro's accuracy and should be compensated by fine tuning the trim, and this is where I have problems.
The rudder trim has NO effect. Zero. All the way left or right...
Any suggestion? Does the yaw trim work well with your stock radio?

Originally Posted by thunnus

Oz, cool lights. where did you get those?!

I bought them from eBay, here is the description
20x 5mm RGB LED Common Anode Diffused Lens; Manual Control 4-Pin Tri-Color USA

and the link
http://www.ebay.com/itm/20x-5mm-RGB-...E:L:OC:US:3160

These are RGB LED's, in other words, the have 3 in one (Red, Blue and Green) in the bulb, and so they have 4 leads, I only use two of the leads. It would be easier to use regular LED's with only 2 leads. Also I prefer diffused LEDs because it lights up the end of the LED.

Like this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/50pcs-5mm-Gr...d033705&_uhb=1

LED's need a resistor to limit the current. The Red LED has a much lower voltage drop than Green and Blue so you need a different resistors.

These numbers are Ohms at a fully charged battery at 4.20 volts

Red 430=5mA, 210=10mA, 133=15mA, 100=20mA
Blue 273=5mA, 119=10mA, 76=15mA, 53=20mA
Green 270=5mA, 116=10mA, 69=15mA, 47=20mA

I do not recommend going over 20mA (smaller value resistor then the 20mA column)

I am running 200 Ohms on Blue and 250 Ohms on Green (the Green is very bright at the same current), so I run it at a lower current to mach the Blue brightness). Anything close will be fine, don't worry about an exact value.

I moved the battery wire to the top of the pcb and then soldered the LED wires to the bottom of the PCB. I just added 4 more LEDs, they draw a total of 50mA and are less prone to being hit in a crash, will add a picture later.

This LED has a resistor and should work at the voltage we are using, but not sure about the brightness
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wired-LED-Di...2fb6533&_uhb=1
and
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wired-LED-Di...34ed0f8&_uhb=1

On another note, I ordered the 750mA NanoTech batteries from HK USA in the morning on the 1st of Feb, I got them on the 4th,pretty happy about that, i am used to the three weeks from Honk Kong. Since my flying is getting better I am draining the battery faster now. My stock 350mA battery was 9 minutes putting around, now it last 5 to 5 and half minutes. The 750mA NanoTech it lasts 14 minutes and the last 3 minutes it slows a bit, but still totally flyable. The motors are slightly warm.

I had to slightly modify the connector on the X1 for the 750mA Nano, the pins are square, but the 750mA Nano Female connector is rectangle, With a Dremal tool and cutoff wheel, I shaved a fraction off one side on the X1 and fits perfect.

Originally Posted by dszegedi

.
The rudder trim has NO effect. Zero. All the way left or right...
Any suggestion? Does the yaw trim work well with your stock radio?

The 4 X1 I have flown all the trims work (well i have never tried the throttle) on the stock Tx and of course on the 9x. I have the trim set to ExFine (extra fine) on the 9x and works very well.

On a side note, a buddy just bought a X1 from Amazon and he got the Green PCB and it is not as stable as the Red pcb versions

Originally Posted by --Oz--

The 4 X1 I have flown all the trims work (well i have never tried the throttle) on the stock Tx and of course on the 9x. I have the trim set to ExFine (extra fine) on the 9x and works very well.

On a side note, a buddy just bought a X1 from Amazon and he got the Green PCB and it is not as stable as the Red pcb versions

Very interesting. If you have a chance, please share a photo of the green PCB, version number, and name of the seller with us. Does the green version have about the same range as the red version?

I have a red board, was a spaceship bought on Amazon (my girlfriend's ufo from different seller has red board too). My yaw trim works fine, I can attest because I use it. My CCW rotors do not spin as well as my CW rotors, so I am using 1-2 clicks of trim to keep it straight (still yaws slightly when using full throttle inputs, probably from the CW rotors spooling faster).

I read earlier the arms are press fitted. Has anyone had issues with any coming out? This is my first flying thing, and I am getting real good at it and don't crash anymore, but on my last 3 flights I had to push the rear left leg (directly under battery) into the frame about 1/4in when I was done. I do a lot of high speed stuff and back to back flips (I have confused the gyro's on more than one occasion to make it plummet upside down!) so I can only assume it is gforces trying to pull the arm out since I am not crashing at all. My concern is if I glue it, it will not come out if I ever needed to remove it. Anyone else having this occur?