Originally Posted by KillerCut

The thrust line angle should not be flat. it should be the same as the original unmodified profile of the engine mount area. Just lay the stick mount where it would normally go and that is the exact angle it should be. Use hot glue or epoxy to effix the stick mount to the area. I built over 10 of these light strykers, the best thrust angle is what I just mentioned...

Also I have well over 200 flights LOS and over 100 flights FPV on the airframe...

If you have the stick mount in line with the centerline of the wing airfoil you will not enjoy flying it as much as if you did it the way I told you to. Unless you fly constant throttle the whole flight always and like trimming it all the time...

I mounted my motor the same as Killer and I agree it's the best way. The Stryker tends to nose up under thrust at higher speeds. This mounting angle offsets that tendancy IMHO and makes it nice to fly.

Originally Posted by FLAME747

Do those servos fit snug in the servo bay?

Thanks

FCA

I recall those Solar servos where a little small .. a little hot glue in the base and a little on the mounting tabs and the servos stayed in place easily.

Originally Posted by FLAME747

Built a light Stryker for a friend, he loved it

2208/14 outrunner
8x5E
3S 1300mAh lipo

Pretty good vertical

Thinking about building another one but with a 2217/06 outrunner

Should have even better vertical

FCA

That motor is really heavy.
try this..
http://www.altitudehobbies.com/brush...-suppo-2208-12

Originally Posted by MikeRx

That motor is really heavy.
try this..
http://www.altitudehobbies.com/brush...-suppo-2208-12

Thanks for the link

FCA

Mine counts as 10+ opinions, I've build over 10 of these planes already, laying on top is definitely better for all flying styles. if you embed the stick and make it parallel to the thrust line, it will fly faster but it will never fly as nice as with a stick on top parallel to the profile of the engine mount area...

update on the swiss cheese stryker,
the holes are covered with black tape, it looks cool. The holes are like golf ball dimples, so maybe it will benefit from less drag... I just need to make and install a set of fins and elevons and it will be good to go... It should be ready for los this week, and then I will be testing new fpv gear and decide where to put that in later...

I have built 10+ stryker lites and Putting the stick mount on top on the air frame works best.

Well 20+ for stick on top convinces me!
Thanks guys...

I put my motor mount on top or slightly buried in the foam on the same thrust line.

Would 2204 be underpowered for a slow flying soccer field stryker ?
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...Outrunner.html

You could use that motor but you would have to really focus on weight.
If I were to use that motor I would strip the fiberglass rods out of the body. Make sure I got the screw out of the nose. I would use depron 10mm for the elevons and fins use a small 6gm receiver, 6-9 gm servos. Lightweight batter hatch and cover ( I use black packing tape over manila evenlope), and run that motor on a 450 3s with a 7 x 3.5 prop.
It would fly pretty good at 10 ounces and be really fun if you can get it close to 9 ounces.

At close to 9 ounces it would be able to do this.

Inverted sidearm light stryker launch (0 min 38 sec)

This my 10 ounce stryker with a blue wonder motor on it.

Thanks for the feedback on 2204.

My son's stryker without battery is 12 oz using a 2212 motor, stock elevons and blucore vert stabilizers.

I I think 2204 is designed for 8-10 oz.

Might not get to it for few weeks - will post results when done...

Here's my latest light Stryker, set up for FPV.



AUW weight 533 grams (18.8oz) including FPV transmitter, FPV camera, #16 keychain camera (to record flights), 850mAh flight battery and 450mAh videoTX battery.

• Emax CF2822 outrunner
• 20A HobbyKing ESC
• 8″ propeller (currently EP 8040)
• R610 OrangeRX receiver
• Emax ES08A 8 gram high-torque servos

The nose is drastically hacked to provide a good FPV view and a forward, down-facing mount for the flight camera.

When you set up the stryker did you find that you needed positive or upward tilt on the elevons. I flew mine the other day and noticed a tendency for the plane to dive under low power and in turns. Is this too much forward weight from the battery or the need for more upward deflection in the elevons?

if your motor mount is parallel to where the motor mount area is, then your cg is too far forward. if your motor mount is parallel with the bottom of the plane, then you need to adjust the motor mount so the rear of the motor points down a little, and its probably also a little nose heavy. when I cut power it just glides without changing pitch...