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Old Feb 09, 2013, 12:40 PM
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Yeah I see those options in the 9X menu!

Here is my info:

450 PRO Brushless 3800KV/3.5MM TL450M*1

Main Rotor Diameter:710mm
Tail Rotor Diameter:158mm
Motor Drive Gea:14T
Main Drive Gear:150T
Autorotation Tail Drive Gear:106T
Tail Drive Gear:25T


basically it's oomodel's tarot 450 pro v2 fbl combo 6

really appreciate it !


ps
yeah I have a set of training gear :P
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Last edited by tsakali; Feb 09, 2013 at 01:03 PM.
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Old Feb 09, 2013, 05:20 PM
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Ok I have the same motor on mines with that pinion. For normal throttle curve set it starting from L to H 0,45,75,78,80. For idle up 1 80,75,75,75,80. For idle up 2 80,78,78,78,80. This motor pinion combo would be best with an esc using the governor function but these curves should give a very good head speed that won't bog with pitch changes. Now for the pitch curve set normal 35,40,50,75,100. Idle up 1 and 2 the same at 0,25,50,75,100. Idle up 1 and 2 are flat curves so that at bottom stick you have -12 degrees and top stick you have +12 degrees pitch. Use a pitch gauge to setup the main blade pitch for 0 at mid stick and +12 at top stick. Then in idle up confirm -12 and +12 degrees pitch.
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Old Feb 09, 2013, 05:26 PM
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great post ridge, thank you! will set those up right now.

one last thing... my Metal FL control arm screw, and radius arm screws on the head are nowhere near being tight... if i tighten them they stiffen up... do those need to be lock threaded or can I get away without doing it? am I to simply screw them in to the point that the arms don't bind, and hope for the green thread locker to hold them in place?
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Old Feb 09, 2013, 05:27 PM
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Btw...that Tarot motor with BeastDNA 50c packs have tons of power..No bogging and packs come down cool after 4:30 mins.
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Old Feb 09, 2013, 05:31 PM
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good to know.. I am using a nano-tech 2200 45C constant /90C burst... Should be good enough for now
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Old Feb 09, 2013, 05:33 PM
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Be careful with some of the screws like the one described on the head even with a Tarot. Only snug tight. The tiny screws for the radius arms need a little dab of threadlock. Just don't get any on the bearings. In general any bolt or screw going into metal use a little threadlock..
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Old Feb 09, 2013, 05:35 PM
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yeah, they do seem a bit hard to get right, that's why I was trying to avoid doing them :P
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Old Feb 09, 2013, 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by tsakali View Post
good to know.. I am using a nano-tech 2200 45C constant /90C burst... Should be good enough for now
Not necessarily. Nanotechs are know for not performing and going in the garbage can after a few uses. That Tarot motor is no slouch. It's hard on low quality packs. Keep an eye out for high pack temps and puffing.
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Old Feb 09, 2013, 05:43 PM
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arg, so much information to attain!. I tried to make educated purchases, but at some point you just want to bring your new bird to fruition ! there is only so much research I could take before I gave in and started hitting purchase buttons :P
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Old Feb 09, 2013, 05:57 PM
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Well if you need good batteries with USA shipping try epbuddy.com. They selling Glacier packs. Get the 30c or higher packs. Another brand that is promising are BeastDNA packs on eBay. Shipping will be slow with new rules in place for shipping lipo packs but these packs are 50c for about the same price as Glacier 30c.
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Old Feb 09, 2013, 07:35 PM
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thanx again for the info.. its all set up, will have to wait till tom. to get it in the air .
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Old Feb 09, 2013, 11:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tsakali View Post
great post ridge, thank you! will set those up right now.

one last thing... my Metal FL control arm screw, and radius arm screws on the head are nowhere near being tight... if i tighten them they stiffen up... do those need to be lock threaded or can I get away without doing it? am I to simply screw them in to the point that the arms don't bind, and hope for the green thread locker to hold them in place?
What do you mean by FL control arm screw?

Also by radius arm screw do you mean the screws that hold the plastic arms onto the metal one or the screw that holds the metal arm to the hub? If you mean the screws that hold on the plastic arms those are often a little bit stiff, as long as they aren't any worse than a ball link they will be fine and over time will loosen up.

I personally like how JR and RJX FBL heads attach the plastic radius arm to the metal control arm with a pin and e-clips instead of screws.
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Last edited by Atomic Skull; Feb 09, 2013 at 11:22 PM.
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Old Feb 10, 2013, 02:55 AM
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I mean both the plastic and metal parts connected together at the head. the metal part has one screw connecting it to the head, and on the other side, two screws and bearings connect it to the plastic part, which in turn connects to the swash plate

Anyway, I couldn't wait till tomorrow so i got a brief hover in my living room :P the sound it made in a closed area is simply awesome and scary at the same time :P can't wait to get this thing at the park tomorrow !! thanx for all the helpful info everyone, especially Ridge-Racer
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Old Feb 10, 2013, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by tsakali View Post
I mean both the plastic and metal parts connected together at the head. the metal part has one screw connecting it to the head, and on the other side, two screws and bearings connect it to the plastic part, which in turn connects to the swash plate

Anyway, I couldn't wait till tomorrow so i got a brief hover in my living room :P the sound it made in a closed area is simply awesome and scary at the same time :P can't wait to get this thing at the park tomorrow !! thanx for all the helpful info everyone, especially Ridge-Racer
Pics would help, if it feels like it is binding/ too tight, you might need to take it apart and see if you have shims inside, and take 1 or several out depending what you have. Sometimes they use shims to make the pivot point tight, and lack the quality control/intelligence to think, hey that hinge point is tight, maybe I shouldn't put 2 shims in there?
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Old Feb 10, 2013, 10:06 AM
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I guess I would need really close up images for that!....but i happen to have a video I took showing how my swashplate is prolly damaged do to possibly mishandling it as I was trying to pop off the radius arms from the ball links, so I could inspect tightness of them while screwing it in.

And also my main gear set is suspect for replacement as I feel the wobble is a little more than most people would tolerate I meant to post it yesterday but apparently youtube takes a while to process videos these days.

Wobbly swashplate-and main gear set (1 min 36 sec)


btw that video makes me sound like darth vader for some reason :P
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