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Old Nov 26, 2014, 01:19 PM
Whaddya Mean, I Procrastinate?
MiniBoy's Avatar
United States, MA, Webster
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FR4-Pilot View Post
Oops - I accidentally pressed '1 click ship' on my wife's Amazon account and now 3 Hitec HS-635HB servos are on the way ...

Damn it!
Oh, well .. accidents DO happen ..

Anyway, your wife will understand that you didn't do it on purpose ?!?

LOL ..

Russ
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Old Nov 26, 2014, 06:22 PM
SUCK LESS
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United States, IL, Lombard
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Tis' the season - I think she'll forgive me.

The Super Duper 3D Century links arrived today. I took some measurements. In general, the NX links have the smallest ID - in the 1.8-1.9mm range. Next the 3D links in the 2mm range. Then the Swift 16 links in the 2.1-2.2mm range. Lots of variation it seems ...

Wonder why the CNLR1000HD 3D links were discontinued ?

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Last edited by FR4-Pilot; Nov 26, 2014 at 10:02 PM.
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Old Nov 26, 2014, 08:32 PM
Whaddya Mean, I Procrastinate?
MiniBoy's Avatar
United States, MA, Webster
Joined Feb 2003
2,506 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by FR4-Pilot View Post
Tis' the season - I think she'll forgive me.

The Super Duper 3D Century links arrived today. I took some measurements. In general, the NX links have the smallest ID - in the 1.8-1.9mm range. Next the 3D links in the 2mm range. Then the Swift 16 links in the 2.1-2.2mm range. Lots of variation it seems ...

Anyone know why CNLR1000HD 3D links were discontinued ?

Glad you got what seems to be ruggeder links.

It seems as, although the Century part number is a slight bit different, your HD 3D links are very similar to the ones I ordered from Century a year ago ..

Your Pt. # .. CNLR1000HD

Mine .... CNLR1001

Just another mystery !?!

And .. we may be beating this to death .. may want to continue this on the Quark thread ..

LAMO ..

Russ
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Old Nov 26, 2014, 09:51 PM
SUCK LESS
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You're absolutely right - consider it dropped.

Happy Thanksgiving everyone
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Old Nov 26, 2014, 10:17 PM
Whaddya Mean, I Procrastinate?
MiniBoy's Avatar
United States, MA, Webster
Joined Feb 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FR4-Pilot View Post
You're absolutely right - consider it dropped.

Have a Happy Thanksgiving everyone
John:

Thanks for the thanksgiving Greeting, and I extend my Thanksgiving Greetings to everyone, as well ..

Meanwhile, what is the consensus of all to moving the Gyro to the front of the mainmast, as well as mounting the ESC and tail servo on one side of the "Scale Platform" / battery tray, with the RX on the opposite side, to be able to access most connectors/ controls once the mechanics are in the scale fuse ??

On second thought, that may likely put the tail servo too low to make a smooth shot down the tailboom, even with NyRod .. may have to re-think that one ??

It seems to me that tail belt adjustment needs to be done from the rear of the main mechanics ??

OR .. is that slotted adjustment just for gear mesh adjustment to the main spur gear ??

Or can belt adjustment be done at the tailbox ??

Any opinions are welcome and appreciated ..

Russ
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Old Nov 26, 2014, 11:03 PM
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That's where the metal tailbox comes in very handy ... it allows the belt to be adjusted at the rear since it clamps on the boom and can be slid back and forth as needed.

The plastic one requires much more effort.
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Last edited by FR4-Pilot; Nov 26, 2014 at 11:52 PM.
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Old Yesterday, 12:05 AM
Whaddya Mean, I Procrastinate?
MiniBoy's Avatar
United States, MA, Webster
Joined Feb 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FR4-Pilot View Post
That's where the metal tailbox comes in very handy ... it can be adjusted at the rear of the boom.

The plastic one requires adjusting at the 'front' end of the boom, which means .... I'll let somebody else say it ...
LOL ..

Let me guess ..

Take the tailbox off .. pull the mechanics out of the fuse .. put the tailbox back on .. adjust the belt at the "front end" .. take the tailbox off again .. put the mechanics back in the fuse .. put the tailbox back on .. and assume the belt tension will be O.K. ??

I can't wait !!!

Of course, by the time the belt tension needs "attention", I suppose there is other maintenance that should be done, like inspecting, cleaning, checking screw / bolt tightness, lubing bearings, etc. ??

And, keep in mind that this bird is going to spend it's first 50 flights out of the fuse anyway which may be long enough to get the initial stretch / set into the tail drive belt ??

Also, I may be out in left field, here ?

Meanwhile, is that alu tailbox be PN CNE566 per chance ??

( Notice all the question marks .. LOL )

Russ
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Old Yesterday, 12:22 AM
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Affirmative on the CNE566.

Even a pod and boom NX with a plastic tailcase will require extra effort to adjust the belt since the electronics plate covers the 4 cap screws on top of the tail transmission that you need access to in order to slide the boom when adjusting the belt. And removing the electronics plate requires splitting the frame open, and ....

By contrast, the Swift 16 has a smaller 'gyro plate' that's not as wide and doesn't completely cover those cap screws. It's much easier to adjust the belt on a Swift 16 - a 2.5mm hex ball driver is your friend. One option is to use the Swift 16's gyro plate instead. Another is to omit the electronics plate entirely if the electronics can be located somewhere else. And the Carbon 550's gyro plate has slots along the sides - I assume the slots are for access to those screws.

If you can find yourself a pre-owned CNE566 you'll be glad you did as it's key to avoiding lots of headaches with the NX. It's practically a requirement if the heli is going into a scale fuselage IMO. And try real hard to get one before finishing assembly of the airframe. I put one on my NX, AFTER assembly and a dozen or so flights, and observed that the belt was now way too tight, even with the metal tailcase slid in as far as it could go. The belt needed additional slack and obtaining it would have required all of that effort I described in the first paragraph. So I put the plastic tailcase back on instead. The metal one is now on my 16 ...
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Last edited by FR4-Pilot; Yesterday at 12:25 PM. Reason: Replaced 'gyro mount plate' with 'electronics plate', per manual.
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