|Aug 08, 2014, 03:07 AM|
Beginner's Guide to Repairing the Blade 200 SRX
It will eventually happen to you if you own this bird as it seems to be rather fragile when it comes to taking a bump. I never had the type of issues with my Blade CX2 that I've had with this one. It seems like you can sneeze on this helicopter and something will need to be replaced. Hell, looking at it mean might cost you money! But I digress.
With this thread, I hope to help those of you who like me, had to replace a given part and had no clue how to do so. I have had to completely rebuild my bird so replacing parts is now something that I can do in my sleep. If you are smart, you will stock up on parts so that you will have no down time during the ownership of your bird. The parts I recommend are the following.
Those seem to be the parts that break the most. You can NEVER have too many servo's and main gears it seems. The main reason that I bought this helicopter was because of the abundance of parts available from Blade and similar companies. As of this posting, availability of parts has been the Achilles heel of this model. I have been able to find what I've needed but I think that I broke Google in doing so.
For those of you who may have lost your user manual, here's a link to the original manual in various languages. You will need Acrobat Reader to read this manual as it is a PDF document.
Now for the pictures. These will help you in disassembling your bird for repairs, as well as reassembly once you take it apart. The routing of wiring is important and the necessary stuff to remove for repairs is just as important. Overall, it's a very easy bird to take apart and put together as I have never done this before. I will say that I take Corvettes apart and put them back together so I'm good with my hands.
I bought these tool sets by Dynamite for working on my bird. From what I understand, you can repair most birds with this combination of tools alone.
1. Hex Kit ( the only thing I needed from this kit was the 1.5mm and the 2.0mm tools):
2. Screwdriver Set:
3. A pen-type flashlight, for seeing into the small holes and assisting with aligning screws. This really comes in handy.
4. This pick tool is GREAT for aligning the holes in the shaft with the holes on the rotor hub and especially the main gear. Just get the holes slightly aligned and then stick this pick tool through the hole as far as it will go. It will perfectly align your holes so that the bolts and screws easily go where they need to. This thing is a real time saver.
5. This grabby tool thing (whatever it is called). This thing is great for grabbing and placing screws where your fat fingers won't fit!
6. A set of cutters, some tweezers and some needle nose pliers. You will also need some double-sided tape, 1" in width and plenty of small tie wraps (or zip ties as they are also called).
Here are some common repairs that you will find yourself doing. These are just the ones that I think would scare the novice owner. These repairs will require you to cut the tie wraps that hold certain wires in place. Pay special attention during the removal of these tie wraps so that you don't cut any wires! That could result in a very costly and unnecessary repair.
Tail Boom Replacement
1. Remove the canopy mount set screws from the anti-rotation bracket. They simply screw into the anti-rotation bracket (righty-tighty, lefty-loosey). The threaded shafts CAN be removed from the canopy mount set AND the anti-rotation bracket so if your shafts do not come out when you remove them from the anti-rotation bracket, be sure to remove them BEFORE trying to remove the anti-rotation bracket. The reason you want to remove the anti-rotation bracket is so that you don't crack it open when installing the tail boom. It also allows for a wider opening for the boom to be installed.
2. Disconnect the tail boom support from the tail boom.
3. Disconnect the tail case from the tail boom. When doing this, you will unplug the tail motor wires from the tail boom wires. They are connected using bullet connectors and simply pull apart. When reinstalling the tail case, you will reconnect the wires (they are color coded), and shove them back into the tail boom. Make SURE that you don't pull the connectors apart during reassembly.
4. Remove the 4, 1.5mm bolts from the helicopter frame.
5. Unplug the tail boom connector from the ESC (electronic speed control).
6. At this point, you will be able to gently pry the back end of the helicopter apart and remove the tail boom.
Re-installation is pretty much just a reverse of the dis-assembly, only plug the tail boom into the ESC as the last step. Another thing that you need to pay attention to is the orientation of the tail boom as you insert it into the chassis. See the pictures below for clarity:
7. Tie wrap your wires down, ensuring that you DO NOT pinch any wires. All of the wires that you tie wrap on this helicopter should be snug, but there should be enough slack where the wires WILL MOVE if tugged upon.
S60 Servo Replacement (Aileron)
1. Disconnect the pushrod from the swashplate. It just pops on and off, although it takes some effort.
2. Remove the screw(s) at the top and bottom of the servo. Your servo may or may not have 2 screws holding it in place depending on the design of the servo.
3. After freeing the wiring, unplug the servo connector from the transmitter. See the picture and diagram below for plug placement.
4. Push the servo through the frame from the back of the servo (the front is where the linkage arm is located). It is a very snug fit as you will find out when attempting to replace it. Be patient and wiggle it as necessary as you are working to remove and install these servos.
5. Remove the screw that holds the linkage arm onto the servo. The linkage arm can be easily removed at this time.
6. Now for the replacement. Place the linkage arm onto the new servo but DO NOT install the screw.
IMPORTANT: GENTLY, and I mean GENTLY move the linkage arm up and down. Notice the distance of travel that your linkage arm has. When the linkage arm is installed correctly, the distance of travel will be from about the 6 o'clock position to about the 12 o'clock position.
Although the servo will not move that far when in operation, positioning the linkage in the manner described above will cover the area of travel that your servo will need. Again, be GENTLE when handling the movement of these servos. They are as pansy as rose petals.
7. Once you have the arm traveling in the 6-12 o'clock position, install the screw that holds it onto the servo. At that point, install the servo into the helicopter. Be careful not to pinch any wiring. Plug the servo connector into the receiver (pins mark #2)
8. Perform the Servo Calibration and Swashplate Linkage Adjustment.
S60 Servo Replacement (Elevation)
Replacing the elevation servo is very similar to replacing the aileron servo. The major difference is that the linkage arm needs to travel from the 12 o'clock position to the 6 o'clock position and the connector plugs into a different slot in the receiver (position #3). The other major difference is the location of the push rods as in how they are connected to the linkage arms. Notice how the push rod is located on the INSIDE of the elevation linkage arm, but is located on the OUTSIDE of the aileron linkage arm. Don't mess that up!
Refer to the pictures on replacing the aileron servo for more clarity. One other small difference is that there is only one screw holding the elevation servo in place.
Make sure that you perform the Servo Calibration and Swashplate Linkage Adjustment.
Replacing the Main Gear
Replacing the main gear is not as daunting as it looks, especially if you have the right tips. First off, you don't have to take the helicopter apart at all. It's basically one screw and that's it.
1. Find the screw that holds the main gear onto the shaft. Look at it and then look at the orientation of the rotor blades.
2. Remove the elevation and aileron pushrods from the swashplate. They will NOT come off very easy! They take a little coaxing.
3. Remove the 1.5mm bolt.
4. Here's the tricky part. You want to hold the main gear while gently lifting the main shaft upward. You only want to pull it out JUST ENOUGH to free the main gear.
NOTICE: If it is difficult for you to lift the main shaft upward (which means that your main shaft is either bent OR the screw holes have been wallowed out due to too many crashes), it will need to be replaced (see directions further down in this document). If there are no problems with your main shaft, not only will it easily lift upward, but the main gear will easily come off the main shaft and the lower bearing will easily fall out of the bottom of the chassis.
5. Install the new gear, making sure that you orientate the blades in the manner necessary to align the holes on the shaft and the new main gear. Here's where having a pen light comes on handy as you can easily see the alignment with the assistance of that light. To make things easier, you may want to LOOSEN the 4 main motor bolts and allow the main motor to move freely as you install the main gear.
Important Tip!. The bolt that holds the main gear onto the shaft only goes in a SPECIFIC side of the main gear. See the picture below for clarity:
6. Insert the screw, tighten and put everything else back together.
Incorrect Servo Canter Happens Only When Power is Applied During Take Off
First, here's a video that shows this problem occurring:
This is a weird and frustrating issue that I experienced. With the heli sitting on a level surface and right as I would start giving it power, the aileron servo would kick all the way up causing the heli to want to turn over on its side when I went to take off. Once I dropped the throttle all the way down, the servo would wait a second or two and then go back to the correct level position. If I applied power again, the servo would kick up again. This was very frustrating and made taking off quite an adventure. This problem can happen with the elevation servo too and can affect both servos simultaneously. Here's the solution.
You need to perform the "Trim Flight" procedure to fix this issue. Here's how I did it, as I deviated slightly from the manufacturer’s instructions.
Entering Trim Flight Mode
1. Lower the throttle stick to the lowest position. If your transmitter utilizes mechanical trims (like the included RTF transmitter with the RTF model), set the throttle trim to the highest position. Set all other trims to the center position.
Now my DX6 uses electronic trims but I didn't follow this instruction because when I did, the blades started turning as soon as I connected the battery. I guess I could have followed this instruction if I had a kill switch setup on my DX6 (I didn't at the time but now I do). So if you are using a DX6, make note of this! If you have the stock transmitter, follow that instruction.
2. Power ON the transmitter.
3. Install the flight battery on the helicopter. Secure the flight battery with the hook and loop strap.
4. Connect the battery connector to the ESC.
5. Place the helicopter on a flat surface and leave it still until the motor beeps twice and the blue ESC LED glows solid, indicating initialization is complete.
6. Place the helicopter where you are going to take off.
7. MOVE AND HOLD the left stick to the bottom left corner and the right stick to the top left corner. I've marked the locations where you need to hold the sticks with yellow circles in the picture below.
8. While holding the sticks in place, press and hold the bind/panic switch until the swashplate smoothly rotates around once.
9. Release the sticks and the bind/panic switch.
10. The model is ready for the trim flight.
Now here's where I got creative. The next set of instructions requires you to fly the helicopter during a time with low to no wind. The ESC does not begin to evaluate your helicopter's position until the throttle stick is over 50% and the sticks are centered. You have to hold this darn near perfect hover for a minimum of 30 seconds. The instructions say that making minor corrections will not affect the results but a longer flight may be necessary. That's what the instructions say.
Now if you are not good at doing a darn near perfect and level hover, this process is going to take a while because the helicopter will stop and start the evaluation process multiple times. But the question I asked myself was, how does the helicopter actually know that it is flying? The evaluation process starts when the throttle is past 50% but the instructions don't say one word about how high the helicopter needs to be in the air. It needs to be as still as possible. So I had a brain storm.
I decided to remove the main blades and leave the helicopter sitting on a level table. I then ran the throttle up past the 50% mark while holding on to the landing skids. I did this for 31 seconds and then lowered the throttle. At that point, I was ready to exit the trim flight process. You do so by pressing and holding the bind/panic button until the swashplate twitches, indicating that the servo positions and attitude values have been recorded and trim flight mode has been exited.
That's what I did. Next, I unplugged the battery, set my throttle trim back to center and plugged the battery backup. I gave the chopper power and BOTH servos DID NOT MOVE (which by the time I figured out the solution, BOTH servos were jacked up)!!!
Now one thing kinda had me worried about doing it this way. I was going to be spinning the motor pretty darn fast WITH NO LOAD. Sorta like sustaining a revving engine with the car in park. Not a really good thing to do but I figured that the engine would sustain that short period in time so I had a stop watch at the ready. At 31 seconds, I killed the power. I was watching for smoke the entire time!
You may want to actually do the flight trim mode as Horizon's document calls for after all id fixed just to be on the dafe side. That document is located at the end of this writeup.
So this fixed my issue! Keep that no load thing in mind if you decide to do it this way. If you want to follow the instructions as they are written, check the end of my second post in this thread for the link to the manufacturer’s instructions. HH tried to tell me that my issue was normal but it didn't perform that way out of the box. I would call HH up and tell them about this but I honestly don't think that it would do any good. Apparently, I'm getting just as good as they are with fixing this thing. The only problem is I am not getting paid!
|Aug 08, 2014, 03:13 AM|
Replacing the Main Motor or ESC (Electronic Speed Control)
This repair is easier than it looks. I usually remove the main blades when I work on my bird because it makes working on it more manageable. One practice that I like to follow is to whenever possible; reinsert any screws that I remove back into the holes from where they were removed. This solves two issues. One, I don't lose the screws and two; I don't have to remember which screws go into any of the holes.
1. Unplug the bullet connectors that connect the main motor to the ESC. These connectors are VERY tight. Be careful not to put any unnecessary strain on the wires coming from the ESC. I used some needle nose pliers to unplug my main motor wires, which damaged them. I wasn't worried about that damage because the motor was already fried. DO NOT use pliers on wires that go to a working component.
2. Remove the tie wraps that hold the wires onto the chassis.
3. If you are replacing the ESC, you will also need to cut the tie wrap that holds the ESC wires to the skids. You will then unplug the ESC from the receiver. Reverse the process to install your new ESC. What I ended up doing was removing my skids and running the wires from the ESC under the skids so that I would not need a tie wrap to hold those wires in place or provide support for holding the ESC on the bird. See picture below.
Be sure to look at the chart that I provided earlier in this post, which describes the correct pin orientation to plug up the ESC to the receiver. Plugging the ESC up improperly could resort in damage to no telling what!
The ESC is held to the chassis with double-sided tape. I thought that was kinda cheesy but that type of assembly seems to be the norm with these smaller choppers. Tie wraps and double-sided tape must be like duct tape to this chopper manufactures.
Here's the double-sided tape you want to use with this chopper. The width is perfect and it works well enough to hold stuff in place but can be removed later if necessary. Don't reuse any of the original tape. There's no need to buy that kit that Horizon sells with the double-sided tape either when you can get an entire roll for cheap.
4. If you are replacing the main motor, you only need to pull the ESC down and out of the way to expose the opening to the main motor. Discard the double-sided tape that held the ESC in place.
5. Before performing the next step, gently turn the MAIN GEAR and get a feel for how tight it is against the main motor. The reason that you are doing this is because the main motor has a very slight amount of play that you can adjust when you reinstall it. You don't want to make that amount of play any more or less than it is. So get a feel for how tight the main gear is against the main motor before you remove it.
6. Remove the 4 screws and washers that hold the motor in place. Be careful NOT to loose the washers.
7. At this point, you can manipulate the main motor out of the chassis. When reinstalling it, remember the amount of tension that you felt when you rotated the main gear.
When tightening the screws to the motor, HAND TIGHTEN all 4 screws in place at first. After verifying the amount of tension that you want against the main gear, begin tightening the screws in a "X" formation. That is, tighten one screw on one side of the chassis and then tighten the screw that is diagonally opposite on the other side of the chassis. This ensures proper alignment of the motor to the main gear during the installation.
Reverse the dis-assembly and your new motor is now installed.
Helicopter Wants To Do a Hard Right/Left Bank or Hard Nose/Tail Stand on Lift Off
This was kinda annoying! Every time I tried to lift off, the helicopter would fall over on its side causing the wings to immediately strike the ground. I knew that this was a trimming issue but all the trim in North America wasn't resolving my issue. That's when I had a brain storm.
I set the helicopter up high where I could see what the aileron and the elevation servos where doing when the helicopter was initialized. After the helicopter finished doing all of its whiz-banging, I took a picture of the aileron. Look at what I saw. No wonder...
So here's what I did. I removed the screw that holds the linkage onto the aileron servo and rotated the linkage a few teeth CLOCKWISE. I then put the linkage back on the servo and initialized the chopper again. BINGO. Problem solved. Now I can trim it out the rest of the way as per the instructions in the controller manual.
The same process would work for a hard nose or tail stand as you would adjust the elevation linkage arm in the proper direction (clockwise or counter-clockwise depending on what the problem is).
S60 Servo Gear Replacement
Sometimes your entire servo will not fail but the teeth on one or more of the gears inside the servo will chip. These broken teeth can easily be detected if you GENTLY , and I mean GENTLY rotate the linkage arm connected to the front of the servo back and forth (it will only turn 180 degrees). If any gear teeth are broken, you will feel the servo skip as it comes to the broken section. When this happens, you don't have to replace the entire servo, just the broken gear or gears. Here's how.
Step 1. The is a piece of plastic shrink wrap that holds these servos together. Gently slide that piece of shrink wrap off of the servo. DO NOT CUT IT OFF. It simply slides off in one piece.
Step 2. Remove the gears and lay them out on a table in the same order that you removed them. The first gear is snug and will require some tugging. The rest will easily come out. I usually use a small, flat head screwdriver to slightly pry at the first gear to get it started. See picture below for clarity.
Step 3. Once all the gears are removed, inspect EACH GEAR for damage. Also, make sure that you LOCATE AND REMOVE the broken teeth from the gear(s) that failed. Failure to do so will have you redoing this repair as soon as you attempt to fly again.
Step 4. Replace whatever gears you find broken.
Step 5. Reassemble the servo. If necessary, you can use White Lithium Grease to lubricate your gears. This product is safe for application on plastic parts.
Once you have reassembled your bird, check the servos to ensure that their travel path is correct. Here's what I mean.
The aileron servo should travel from the 6 o'clock position to the 12 o'clock position. The elevation servo should travel from the 12 o'clock position to the 6 o'clock position. EACH SERVO has a built-in stop notch, which keeps it from traveling past these points. What you have to do is use a linkage arm to position the servo in question to one of it's two stopping points. Next, attach the linkage arm onto the servo so that it then will travel the full range that it is supposed to travel (depending on which servo it is).
NOTE: Once you go to put the linkage arm back on the servo for good, remember that it must be positioned so that it is perfectly level when you initialize your bird BEFORE flight. That means that when the initialization process has completed after you have connect the battery, that linkage arm should be perfectly parallel to the ground. If not, your helicopter will drift wildly in some direction. Thus, correct that problem BEFORE you attempt to fly by removing the linkage are and rotating it so that it is level to the ground. If you can't get it perfectly level, use the FINE TUNING adjustment that is laid out in the Horizon Hobby document that I have linked to at the end of this writeup.
Main Shaft Replacement
As a US Marine, one thing that I was drilled on was attention to detail. This is one of those repairs where attention to detail is critical. Since the information that I am about to cover cannot be found in the level of detail that I plan to cover it, I wonder how many of these birds are out there improperly assembled by folks who maybe missed some of these details. This is one repair where improper assembly is easy to do, especially if you rush it, don't pay attention during dis-assembly and you don't use an adequate amount of light to see the small details. My eyes are not what they were 35 years ago so I use a LOT of light to work on this bird. That light is what has helped me to see all the small important intricacies of how this bird is assembled. I will share that information with all who read this write-up.
When you buy a main shaft, it comes with the shaft, a collar and two (2) screws for the collar.
Two other important parts that accompany the main shaft are the two (2) bearings and the swashplate. If you successfully bend your shaft or crash so hard that the holes in the shaft wallow out and develop a ridge, NONE of these items will be EASY to remove (if at all). As a matter of fact, if any of these parts cannot be removed, toss them along with the shaft into the garbage. You can fight and tug at these parts all you want but the only thing that you will end up with is frustration and damaged parts. Here's what happened to my swashplate while trying to force it off the shaft.
Take it from someone who's been there, just buy some replacement parts. You'll thank me later. You can press fit that bearing back in there if you want but I wouldn't trust it considering how cheap a new swashplate is.
Now understand this. Technically, you can remove the shaft by releasing the 2 rotor head linkages and removing the bolt that holds the main gear onto the shaft. At that point, the shaft just lifts right out. However, if you bend the shaft bad enough or the bearings won't come off the shaft, you're going to have to follow the instructions below.
ONE MORE TIME!
NOTE: AGAIN, you will only have to remove the shaft this way if the shaft will NOT simply lift out of the bird WITHOUT the bearings being attached. If you cannot get the bearings off the shaft (they should simply fall off), then either your shaft is bent or you have crashed so hard that the holes in the shaft have developed a ridge and the bearings cannot get past that ridge. You can try using some emery paper to sand the hole edges smooth but keep in mind that the holes in that shaft are now bigger than they were meant to be and that will cause vibrations. That was your second notice!
1. Remove the blades.
2. Remove the aileron servo. You don't have to disconnect it from the receiver, just remove it from the chassis and let it hang free.
3. Remove the following bolts and screws from the chassis:
At this point, you should be able to GENTLY pry open the chassis enough to remove the shaft. BE CAREFUL as the chassis is somewhat fragile. Once the shaft has been removed, you are now ready to assemble and install your new shaft.
IMPORTANT: Pay special attention while removing the hardware from your old shaft. There are screws that go in specific places and parts that have a specific orientation. I suggest working on a white table or background to make these parts easier to see or find if dropped.
The main rotor hub can be removed from the shaft by first, disconnecting the correct rotor head linkage and exposing the 1.5mm bolt.
At this point, you SHOULD be able to remove the swashplate. However, you will not be able to pull it off from the top or bottom of the shaft if the shaft is too bent or the shaft holes are wallowed out. If the two shaft bearings have not fallen off the bottom of the shaft, then those bearings, the swashplate and the shaft collar are all useless. You will need to replace all those parts unless you can find a way to cleanly cut the old shaft in half (or smooth off the shaft holes), so that you can remove those parts. I haven't tried it yet but maybe a Dremel tool with a cutting wheel will do the trick.
4. Now it's time to build the new shaft. The first thing that you need to notice is that the shaft collar has two different sides. The beveled side goes against the top bearing and the flat side goes against the swashplate.
When you align the collar on the shaft, the screw holes on the collar should align with the indention's on the shaft.
5. At this point, you are ready to drop the swashplate onto the shaft and install the rotor hub. Pay attention to which side of the rotor hub that you install the bolt.
6. Last of all, install the shaft bearing and put everything back into the chassis. There are multiple was to attempt this so I will let you pick a way that works for you.
7. Install your chassis screws. Next, install the main gear (see the main gear installation notes for assistance).
That's pretty much it. If you didn't loose any screws and you remembered where all of them went, you're golden.
Solution for No Self-Leveling in Intermediate Mode
This fix will do a factory reset of the receiver. It will probably resolve this issue in all modes.
That's it, your receiver has now been reset back to factory specifications.
Power Adjustment Increase for Those Flying at High Altitudes
If your 200 does not seem to have enough power or you are flying at high altitudes, watch this video on how to adjust your gains.
These pictures are for those of you who take stuff apart and cannot remember how the wires were oriented. You're welcome in advance.
The only other major repair is replacing the body itself. I will do a writeup on that if folks deem it necessary. All of the other repairs are easy to figure out. Pay attention when changing the rear blades out. This tail rotor picture courtesy of Digital Don.
Here is Horizon Hobby's Advanced Settings and Setup Guide, which only needs to be performed if you notice that the model is not returning to level consistently or if the model does not remain still during stationary pirouettes. The "trim flight procedure" is used to determine the optimal SAFE™ settings during flight. The trim flight procedure must be performed in calm conditions. Perform this procedure if the model is not performing well or has been recently rebuilt from a crash.
Last of all, THIS LINK has all of the documents by Horizon Hobby, which details various procedures for adjusting and calibrating your bird. These are a must read for all 200 SR X owners. Familiarize yourself with them as they will definitely come in handy.
Well that's it folks. Let me know if you have any questions.
|Aug 08, 2014, 03:32 AM|
I'm going to get to the front of the line to shake your hand - GREAT JOB - GREAT WORK!! I don't have a 200 SRX but I can appreciate the work you put into the details and the details you put into the work. I've got a hangar full of micros and and CP's and gotten real good at fixing them. Your recommendations - your suggestions - your exactness - your descriptions - are like reading a favorite book. Thank you for putting in the time and effort to help others who haven't developed the experience or skills or knowledge you have. EXCELLENT WORK!! Keep up the good work!!! Your expertise is a true asset to this forum.
|Aug 08, 2014, 09:45 AM|
United States, NJ, Morris County
Joined Jun 2014
further 200 srx questions
Great Job! very helpful. I have a few questions. I had several nasty crashes. Just received a replacement new 200 srx from Horizon in exchange for my returned bird (one time complementary exchange), great customer service.
Would it be better to remove the servo linkage to swash first when replacing gear?
(I may have damaged my first 200 replacing a gear and leaving linkage in place)
On the 2nd (and fatal) crash of my first 200, I noticed that the swash was far from level after initialized. Being very new to the hobby, I flew it, and the crash may have been partly the swash setup. Any further advise how to check, adjust the servo arm would be helpful. (had initialized on level surface)
Don't understand how a new "checked at factory" can be sent out with the swash
so out of level. Surely it has caused numerous crashes, warranty claims and cost to Horizon.
|Aug 08, 2014, 09:51 AM|
Very nice job, should help a lot of beginners. It's hard to believe you are breaking so many parts, though. Since you have it apart, I suggest some upgrades:
13T or 14T pinion gear.
Better and separate ESCs.
|Aug 08, 2014, 01:21 PM|
|Aug 08, 2014, 01:30 PM|
1) CNC Aluminum Main Rotor Hub Set
2) CNC Hardened Steel Spindle Shaft Set
3) CNC Aluminum Main Blade Grips Set
4) CNC Aluminum Swashplate Set
5) CNC Delrin 120T Main Gear w/AL Hub Set + 104T Main Gear
6) CNC Solid Carbon Main Shaft w/AL Collar Set
7) CNC Aluminum and Carbon Fiber Main Frame Set + Landing Skids
8) CNC AL Canopy Mount Set
9) Canopy Standard Shape-Schema 01
10) Carbon Tube Tail Boom-Standard Length
11) CNC Aluminum Tail Boom Support Set
12) CNC Aluminum Horizontal Stabilizer Fin Mount Set
13) CNC CF Tail Fin Set
14) CNC Aluminum Tail Motor Mount Set
15) Brass Pinion 10T + 11T + 12T + 13T
I'm going from blah, blah to BLING, BLING! I had to wait until I could fly without crashing anymore before I could do this though! Now I'm ready.
I'm curious as to what you mean by "better and separate ESC's". I have not seen another ESC offered for this heli, much less two of them. Why would you need two of them since one controls everything? A;so, where would you mount the second one? I'm thinking that weight would be an issue with this.
|Aug 08, 2014, 03:52 PM|
|Aug 08, 2014, 05:28 PM|
All of the problems I have read about indicate the ESCs are the root cause of the tail motor problems. There's no way a brushless motor will fail as often as these tail motors appear to. It has to be the ESC.
|Aug 09, 2014, 09:31 PM|
|Aug 09, 2014, 09:34 PM|
|Aug 10, 2014, 05:33 AM|
Yes, I too am seeing the same info that you speak of but do to how flimsy the tail fins are, I still think that the incorrect replacing of the fins is what is causing all these brushless motor fails. Now that the tail fin orientation information is getting out there, I'd like to see if the failure rate continues. I have been in the electronic service industry for 20 years and thus is why I'm skeptical of the information that we are seeing.
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