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1 year flying experience
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I even bought the DuraFly 1100mm P-51 Frankie so that I could fly smaller fields while enjoying the stability of this design..but the 1700mm is easier to takeoff, easier to land and is more "scale" in its flying characteristics. Advice for the 1700 mm Mustang - takeoff and land on a flat surface with lots of room to the left of takeoff so that the torque pull doesn't put you into the weeds. You can hold rudder all you want .....anything above half throttle on takoff makes the bird hook to the left. I have viewed many of the videos made by the guys that frequent this forum and have seen that torque management during takeoff and landing is a common issue. Unless you want to spend most of your life repairing gears, struts, cracks in the wing...take off and land it on pavement for your first dozen flights. Practice the gradual application of power while holding the nose up and avoiding a prop strike. - keep 25 to 30% throttle on while setting up your landing glide. Fly a landing profile that brings the plane from a fairly high altitude with full flaps to a level flight just above the runway. Keep the nose pointed slightly down and the speed slightly up while flying this profile to avoid a tip stall. Fly a landing approach that puts you level at 1-2 feet...then reduce the throttle to set it down on your mains. Many people crash this plane by gliding without throttle on final, and then hitting full throttle low to the ground when they choose to go-around. When flying low and slow, the torque of the 4-blade prop can be a killer as many of these planes roll left, power stall the wing and cartwheel. - others are correct in stating that a cheaper plane is better for learning, but that statement is because the cost of the smaller airframe...not that the smaller plane is easier to fly, because in fact it may not be. If you are like me and have spent your first year flying 5-15 flights per week while learning how to fly in various conditions with a variety of planes, then you should be ready for this bird. I took this video 12 months after flying my first RC aircraft, and after having flown the 1700 Mustang about 8-10 times. From here, I'll let you be the judge of your own training and skills because your 1700mm Mustang has the ability to easily fly just as scale and stable as this.
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Nope, but I'm not sure I would recomend doing that? There is going to be a small gap visible at the bottom,just because of the way the foam fits together, but if you sand it to try and tighten it up you may end up with misaligned wing bolt and hole locations between the wing and the fuselage....could make matters worse?
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Latest blog entry: My Shock Wave Sound modification to my...
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San Diego
Joined Oct 2006
534 Posts
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Again on the thrust alignment. Down and right is obviously designed into it but, mine seems to have the down but no right thrust. I am thinking that I should put some washers between the motor and the motor mount on the left side. There is a lot of torque in this plane. Anyone else have this issue?
Aaron |
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That might be good to try...I was going to do that also, But just hadn't got arround to it yet. It will also require realigning the nose cowl piece a bit ...as I also looked at doing that a while back
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Latest blog entry: My Shock Wave Sound modification to my...
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Nice P-51B in this video
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San Diego
Joined Oct 2006
534 Posts
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I think that the reason that my cowl / spinner alignment is off is because the cowl is aligned for the right thrust but, the motor mount does not have it. I think that once I put some washers on the motor mount it will all line up better. The wing I have not figured out yet. Aaron |
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Today I weighted up the plane to 5kg flying weight (bigger battery). Much better tracking and not as floaty. It also sinks nicely on approach as the extra inertia doesn't let it balloon when a wind gust hits it. I'm thinking it could still be a bit better, so I will try it with a flying weight of 5.5kg next time.
I'll be sure to grease the landing though as I don't want to bust the gear.
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