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Old May 25, 2013, 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by MCarlton View Post
bogbeagle;

I get mine from SLEC UK;

http://www.slecuk.com/catalogue/Wood.html

Decent wood, decent price, helpful people as well.

Also the Balsa Cabin - superb customer service in my experience.

http://balsacabin.webs.com/index.html


Thanks. I'll take a look.
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Old May 25, 2013, 02:36 PM
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Cromer,Norfolk, UK
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You're right there Peter, I have been all around the houses with a hundred pieces of paper, and I keep coming back to "more or less" the same idea. I suppose as you say, because for a specific purpose, there are only so many things which do the job.

Many thanks for the compliment, I'm not doing anything particularly fancy with this, I'm just trying to get my "design and build" mojo working again, with something simple enough that I can't go TOO far wrong... Well...thats the plan anyway.

I shall no doubt craze you all with a multitude of questions!

ARUP - those are really rather gorgeous. Like the thought of T shaped stringers, thinking about it slightly sideways, one could do a similar thing with longerons, and make them L shaped rather than square;
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Old May 25, 2013, 08:50 PM
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Mahogany is a very oily wood, gluing can be a problem.

We are boat builder you know!
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Old May 25, 2013, 10:37 PM
The Prez....... again
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United States, IA, Rockwell
Joined Jul 2011
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I was going to build this Acrofovic .40, but found another project. There are cad plans available for free on the inter web. Looks a lot like you design. I like yours too!

Ken
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Old May 26, 2013, 01:27 AM
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Quote:
We are boat builder you know
Boat Schmoat!!

seriously though, I didn't realise that, so thanks for the heads up, and for saving me untold embarrassment when my longerons come undone!
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Old May 26, 2013, 02:00 AM
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Boat Schmoat!!
http://woodwonderboatworks.yolasite.com/
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Old May 26, 2013, 02:34 AM
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Thats some fantastic work there, hope you didn't take offence with my "boat schmoat" comment! Apologies if so
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Old May 26, 2013, 09:32 AM
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Nice clocks! I plan to build a cold molded barrel back boat once some projects are done in my garage. Remember, FYI,... it's 'visit my friends and ME at...' You must use proper grammar in business.
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Old May 26, 2013, 10:40 AM
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Warren truss structures are WIDELY used for full-scale vintage aircraft...

Dear MCarlton:

The PIPE Here - even though I've been out of work for the better part of FIVE years as I write this (danged September 2008-to-present recession and the austerity-obesessed "Tea Party" over here in the USA) I'm still keeping my CAD skills in decent shape (worked in the CAD/drafting field for eleven years) with CAD drawing projects for RC Scale models I'd love to build once I'm back at work, and some of those DO have Warren truss structures for the fuselages, AND to build the wing ribs up with as well.

I've got projects already started for a quarter-scale Jungmeister from my own CAD plans (new ones drawn up for a second 1/6th scale version are almost complete here at home) and that fuselage is definitely using a Warren-truss structure in the fuselage, as did the full-scale version, as you can see from these scale photos of one (NINE pages worth there) being restored from "bare-bones" status some time ago.

The Canadian/American Fleet Biplane of that same era also used a Warren-truss fuselage structure...and so did the Piper J-3, to just name two more examples.

Most all of these sorts of structures used ROUND metal tubing - in most cases, chrome-moly steel tubing of about an inch (25 mm) in diameter, or close to that - to build up the basic longeron and truss framework for a full-scale fuselage structure. To duplicate those for a scale model, I've already done it partly or in whole with birch dowels, and for most 40-60 sized sport aircraft, and especially for 1/6th scale designs, 3/16ths inch (4.8 mm) diameter birch dowels make a great WOOD-type of construction material.

It's also possible to use fiberglass tubing of anywhere from 5/32nd inch (4.0 mm) to 1/4th inch (6.4 mm) outer diameter to build those from - that's the way I'd be doing up my new 1/6th scale Jungie's fuse someday, with some 5/32nd inch OD fiberglass tubing I got some time ago for just that project, using the EXACT scale framing layout as much as possible, for a Saito FA-40a glow-ignition, four-stroke mill powered version. The 1/4th inch OD fiberglass tube might be better for a 1/5th to 1/4 scale fuselage structure, as I'd like to use for a 1/4th scale Jungie or 1/4th sized Piper L-4 WW II Cub.

To close, I've included some of the wing RIB structures on aircraft I'd be building up as RC Scale versions, complete with built-up ribs...they're either photos or drawings of full scale aircraft wing-structures OR ribs for the Fleet bipe, Pietenpol Air Camper, Piper J-3/L-4 or the Jungie to give you a taste of HOW prevalent "lightweight ribs" can be on a wing, with almost all of them based on Warren truss structures. (I know the Fleet's wing ribs are almost COMPLETELY "open"...that would really save weight there, for certain!)

There's really NO better way to duplicate a scale aircraft than to follow the full-scale layout of the aircraft's structural members whenever and wherever possible...it's a great way to keep the airframe weight of the model as LIGHT as possible, and "why re-invent the wheel", when the designer of the full-scale airframe's already done it for us anyway, hmmm??

Yours Sincerely,

The PIPE....!!
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Old May 26, 2013, 11:11 AM
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Very interesting Pipe, especially that Fleet bipe wing, looks particularly "ethereal". Gives me ideas certainly, I'm pondering...I suspect one would have to use a material that would effectively hold its shape, rather than relying solely on the inner structure to keep the rib accurate. I might give it a small "trial" though, and see what happens. Need some of those fancy postage scales to see if I can make enough weight difference to be worthwhile.

I suspect on a smallish model, the weight loss would be pretty minimal, but if I were to build larger, then I think considerable gains could be made...
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