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Old Apr 14, 2015, 12:06 PM
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Love my scale Whirlybirds
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You might get a chuckle from this one. Thanks.

Don

PS: The full size 314 is right behind the nose of mine, lol.
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Old Apr 14, 2015, 01:05 PM
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Now that background really makes it look real!!!
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Old Apr 14, 2015, 02:17 PM
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That's just amazing!!!
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Old Apr 14, 2015, 06:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keyrigger View Post
You might get a chuckle from this one. Thanks.

Don

PS: The full size 314 is right behind the nose of mine, lol.

ROFL,

Outstanding!!!

John
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Old Apr 14, 2015, 06:43 PM
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I just had to do it. Photoshop is such a great tool to have fun with.

Don
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Old Apr 14, 2015, 07:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keyrigger View Post
I just had to do it. Photoshop is such a great tool to have fun with.

Don
Yes it is, I also think its the best tool when you need lettering or nose art on your helicopters.

John

She looks really fine there in the hanger, right at home if I say so.
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Old Apr 15, 2015, 06:45 PM
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A part that I have been anticipating for a month or more has now arrived and is ready for installation. I will wait until I get the new main shafts in but this follower, although larger than scale, is very, very close to what the real one looks like. I would rather have it this way than the other one that is currently on the mast. This was made by a fellow in Slovenia that has taken on the task of making his own rotor head hub and spindles. The workmanship is top notch. Take care.

Don
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Old Apr 15, 2015, 06:55 PM
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That's a very nice part, bushings or bearings?

John
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Old Apr 15, 2015, 08:18 PM
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There are no bearings nor bushings in it but I just went over it with a bit of blue Loctite on each screw so we shall see how it holds up. There are washers between the pivoting links and the blocks which prefer to be round side to the block or they allow the screw to tighten up. If the rounded edges are to the blocks, they move a lot smoother and do not allow the screw to move. I can see some changes could be made to this but I will give it a trial first. So far, those that are in service are still there and none have had any trouble with them. I hope to get it in the air this weekend. Thanks and take care.

Don
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Old Apr 16, 2015, 06:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keyrigger View Post
There are no bearings nor bushings in it but I just went over it with a bit of blue Loctite on each screw so we shall see how it holds up. There are washers between the pivoting links and the blocks which prefer to be round side to the block or they allow the screw to tighten up. If the rounded edges are to the blocks, they move a lot smoother and do not allow the screw to move. I can see some changes could be made to this but I will give it a trial first. So far, those that are in service are still there and none have had any trouble with them. I hope to get it in the air this weekend. Thanks and take care.

Don

Hope that follower works out, let us know what you think of it once you get some time on it.?

John
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Old Apr 16, 2015, 07:04 PM
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I saw that there are some upgrades coming to them and whatever they upgrades are, mine will get them as well. I really think that shouldered screws through the arms would be more than ample to act as bearing material. Another way would be flanged bearings with a stepped washer to retain it on the other side of the flange. Stepped washers are the hard part to nail down. The last method would be a simple machine screw with a long unthreaded shaft, held in place with nylok nuts. It's simple and effective and would be easy to change on the fly. It really depends on how complex you want to be and there are lots of overly complex components to our helicopters that could be done a lot simpler and less expensive than they are now. Take care.

Don
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Old May 25, 2015, 10:10 PM
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I know this is an old thread, but i have questions... i am about to start putting my thunder tiger x50e into the funkey jet ranger body. the first question i have is how do i run a light up to the top of the vertical stabilizer without wires showing? the rear fin is hollow, but the area it bolts onto the tail boom is not. Next, when you attach the skids to the body, are they also attached to the mechanics with the fuselage in between? When painting, do you paint the area where the two parts (front and back) meet? thanks for any help, and your stuff on here was very helpful
ben
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Old May 25, 2015, 10:35 PM
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LOL. An old thread is one that is over a year since the last post. The way you install the wires is to cut a hole in the glass where the fin meets the body but near the top. There is balsa inside to stiffen the area and you need to remove it where you will run the wires. You also need a hole in the body directly on the mounting pad where you drill in the fin. The top is nearly closed but might have a small opening. I cut the area so that my LED would sit in the mount but be extremely careful as the area below where the light housing ends is extremely thin. It is entirely possible to open it up to get a two lead connector down the hole but you might chase a wire down with a rod and custom wire your light setup. I used the stock connectors supplied with the RC Lights system but now use the ScaleRCHelis.com controller. The fin remains bolted to the body but make sure you use short bolts or shorten them to make installing the tail housing easier and I did paint the insides as there was no need to worry about taking it apart again. If the paint stuck, it makes no difference for me as the only time I will be removing it is to fix the body from a substantial crash which would need the entire body repainted, anyway. The skids on mine are custom and are attached all by themselves to a wood floor I put in the body. You can use stock skids but they look terrible when on the body. You are far better off finding a source of the Fun Key skids or get them made by JestRR who is a fixture at scalerchelis.com forum. Hope this helps.

Don
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Old May 26, 2015, 05:59 PM
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Did you paint it with the horizontal fins already glued in place, or put them on after?
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Old May 26, 2015, 09:17 PM
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No, they were painted separately and the area on the boom where they attach was also masked off so the glue would adhere to it.

Don
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