Hehe you get a Goblin, Im coming over to fly it.........waiting on 25 items from my fav vendor HeliDirect, free 2-day priority shipping on orders over a hundred, Walkera parts at below retail, some at almost 1/2 the cost and a no questions asked return RMA policy via the TELEPHONE on 90% of the items that the manufacturer doesnt warranty direct. Thats doing business the American way .

Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk

As far as flybar setups. I pretty much have no interest in, have never owned, and probably will never PAY for a flybar helicopter. Though if you want to give me one, thats cool. So its kind of taking a step backwards at this point. Like everything, I always enjoy learning about them though. My next helicopter will be a goblin 700 probably.

Thats kind of the general consensus of most newer pilots, so your not alone there. And...theres been huge debates on the subject that end up nowhere, like most debates do online.

IMHO though knowing how a flybar worked and being able to do the dial in, making repairs, building, along with reading tons of threads and watching vids and actually RTFM (as bad as some can be) and then reading some home grown tuning manuals that guys wrote and published on the web for specific heli's like the Belt CP/Blade 400, only out of thier true love for the hobby and not for monetary gain......etc... that's the kind of stuff that gives a good idea what an E-lectronic flybar is doing and going to be like setting up, going in to it. Especially the 2702V which is like i mentioned, a 120 º CCPM 3-axis unit that uses the radio to do the mixing. Very similar to a flybar setup.

I still fly a 4G3 and a 4G6 which are flybarred micros, the 4G6 is still the best flying micro I've flown and I've flown/owned quite a few. One of the top test pilots in the USA for Walkera has also mentioned this about the 4G6. With a heli that small Flybarred or FBL its so light that the only benifit being FBL is that its easy to repair & fly, hence the huge influx of new pilots with helis like the MCP-X & D02S. Otherwise the heli hobby would have stayed one of those obscure "you fly a heli......man I'll stick with my truggie" type of thing. Even with the advent of FBL you see it all the time on the Classifieds, "going back to planes, please buy this and get it out of my sight" advert..... LOL

I miss my Flybarred Belt CP also as that was a crash and go heli that just kept coming back for more.

Anyway, keep the questions coming as theres a lot of knowledge on these forums and a bunch of guys here that are willing to help.

Originally Posted by HeliFlyer711

Hehe you get a Goblin, Im coming over to fly it.........waiting on 25 items from my fav vendor HeliDirect, free 2-day priority shipping on orders over a hundred, Walkera parts at below retail, some at almost 1/2 the cost and a no questions asked return RMA policy via the TELEPHONE on 90% of the items that the manufacturer doesnt warranty direct. Thats doing business the American way .

Originally Posted by HeliFlyer711

Thats kind of the general consensus of most newer pilots, so your not alone there. And...theres been huge debates on the subject that end up nowhere, like most debates do online.

IMHO though knowing how a flybar worked and being able to do the dial in, making repairs, building, along with reading tons of threads and watching vids and actually RTFM (as bad as some can be) and then reading some home grown tuning manuals that guys wrote and published on the web for specific heli's like the Belt CP/Blade 400, only out of thier true love for the hobby and not for monetary gain......etc... that's the kind of stuff that gives a good idea what an E-lectronic flybar is doing and going to be like setting up, going in to it. Especially the 2702V which is like i mentioned, a 120 º CCPM 3-axis unit that uses the radio to do the mixing. Very similar to a flybar setup.

I still fly a 4G3 and a 4G6 which are flybarred micros, the 4G6 is still the best flying micro I've flown and I've flown/owned quite a few. One of the top test pilots in the USA for Walkera has also mentioned this about the 4G6. With a heli that small Flybarred or FBL its so light that the only benifit being FBL is that its easy to repair & fly, hence the huge influx of new pilots with helis like the MCP-X & D02S. Otherwise the heli hobby would have stayed one of those obscure "you fly a heli......man I'll stick with my truggie" type of thing. Even with the advent of FBL you see it all the time on the Classifieds, "going back to planes, please buy this and get it out of my sight" advert..... LOL

I miss my Flybarred Belt CP also as that was a crash and go heli that just kept coming back for more.

Anyway, keep the questions coming as theres a lot of knowledge on these forums and a bunch of guys here that are willing to help.

I mainly use them as well. Sometimes wowhobbies has a better price, but not often. PLUS helidirect will price match within reason, so yeah. It will be a while before i get a goblin. But Its my next progressive move. A lateral move is going to be another 4f200 in my fleet. But i'm going to replace the rotor head with a v200d03's head and install a 2702 or at the least a 2618 RX. And probably upgrade the, well everything else on the heli. I like the 3 blade head, but in a 3d crash i don't want to repair it. So combine the 2 blade v200d03 head with what this guy did: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1701 = pretty nice heli imo.

My favorite micro in my fleet right now is my custom v120d05 dubbed by me the v120d05CS-pro as a parody of the v450d01-mgs-pro. lol. : http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=677
its everything the v120d05 should have been.... Almost. Still has a poor tail rotor to main rotor ratio. Only 2.5ish to 1. But with the turboace motor it hums and has plenty of power, more than my v120d02S and the tail authority is sufficient now. Not great but it works. Only its a little heavy, but its so windy here i almost like it better because of that. In fact it was this little helicopter fighting 38mph gusts with no problems that inspired me to buy a v450. Which is also very good in the strong open winds here on the east coast right off the ocean. Nearest field to fly is only like 5 miles away from the beach in a straight line. So the v450 is now my baby, till the summer kicks in hard, The winds will die and i'm quite worried about puffing packs. They already swell quite nicely in the 80 and 90 degree weather were having now. In august i don't think it will stand a chance.

pretty much got my tail sorted, still waiting for a ImmersionRC 600mw TX to come available so i can fly further than 30 ft lol

GOPR3710.MP4 (2 min 15 sec)

Originally Posted by jhebbel

pretty much got my tail sorted, still waiting for a ImmersionRC 600mw TX to come available so i can fly further than 30 ft lol

http://youtu.be/V9-a22nUyxo

You inspired me to build a smaller FPV system on my 4f200 using a cmos camera. Its very crude but it works. I have the camera mounted so that the lens is basically on the ground. It give a great perspective of the horizon, ground at low altitudes (for landings) and also you can see the bottom of the canopy which gives you a level indicator to contrast with the horizon. Check it out:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1704

Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk

You inspired me to build a smaller FPV system on my 4f200 using a cmos camera. Its very crude but it works. I have the camera mounted so that the lens is basically on the ground. It give a great perspective of the horizon, ground at low altitudes (for landings) and also you can see the bottom of the canopy which gives you a level indicator to contrast with the horizon. Check it out:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1704

Holey bulkey camera batman... lol, id def suggest a small CMOS FPV cam and seperate transmitter, sure it would weight much less lol

Using a cmos is no prob in this thing, i even have a v200d01 FPV heli that is nimble and fun as hell! check this link out http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1606 for pics!

man im a dope, decided to go back to square one and to a hardware, rx, and tx setup to work some of my kinks out and i found all the problems right off the bat

1) if you look at my photos my FS control rods arnt verticle lol, my swash was not in sync with my blades, dohhhhh!!!

2) my tail blade hub somehow worked its way inboard on the shaft thus limiting my positive travel, dohhhhh!!!

2 minutes and a lil locktite to prevent future slippage and im good to go, sometimes all these new fancy gyros and receivers make you forget the basics that are staring you right in the face...

Originally Posted by jhebbel

Holey bulkey camera batman... lol, id def suggest a small CMOS FPV cam and seperate transmitter, sure it would weight much less lol

Using a cmos is no prob in this thing, i even have a v200d01 FPV heli that is nimble and fun as hell! check this link out http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1606 for pics!

the whole rigging weighs more than the camera. plus a separate battery is required unless you want the 4f200 to brown out. I think the whole assembly is under 15 grams. Besides you aren't one to talk about overweight cameras on our helicopters this camera was originally purchased to safely, closely monitor blade tracking on my 4f200 and new 450. but this was a more fun use I think.

Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk

the whole rigging weighs more than the camera. plus a separate battery is required unless you want the 4f200 to brown out. I think the whole assembly is under 15 grams. Besides you aren't one to talk about overweight cameras on our helicopters this camera was originally purchased to safely, closely monitor blade tracking on my 4f200 and new 450. but this was a more fun use I think.

15 grams????? how in the world?

Originally Posted by jhebbel

15 grams????? how in the world?

Okay, so the whole camera and rig weigh a lot more than i thought. Camera alone is 30g. Its still an insignificant amount, especially since a lot of the weight is nearly under the shaft when the camera is mounted. I slide it as far forward now as i can. A few clicks on the trims adjust for the minor extra tail heaviness. Not like the 4f200 wasn't completely tail heavy already anyway though. For the purpose of FPV it's fine. Its not like your going to be doing flips and rolls in FPV, at least not yet, or ever probably on the 4f200.

http://www.anythingheli.com/truebloo...450-v2-v3-pro/[/QUOTE]

Did you ever try these dampers?

Originally Posted by clearprop88

http://www.anythingheli.com/truebloo...450-v2-v3-pro/ Did you ever try these dampers?

No, but my 450 has just developed the wobble issue. I am convinced it is not the dampeners though. I took apart my head, and I think i either didn't put the thrust bearings back together correctly (not likely) or because i didn't clean and lube them. I might have gotten some sand in there. It's very dry and sandy here.

Anyway I will be ordering some probably with my next order. BTW Helidirect stocks them. I'm pretty sure my dampeners are very much in good condition, but i didn't have the wobbles before taking the head apart. I'm fairly certain when i take it back apart and clean & lube the thrust bearings it should take care of the problem. I'll let you know what I find. I might be taking the head apart as early as tonight.



I don't know, most of you have probably seen this video. ANYTIME i want some entertainment this never seems to fail. I've watched it so many times, it's so crazy.

Trex 700E "The Beast" - Tim Jones insane power (5 min 15 sec)

My tail servo blew out finally. I knew something was wrong with it, getting hot no matter how what. I had no binding or anything. Smooth sailing, but always got hot. I just had to learn how to auto rotation landing on this heli the hard way . I pulled it off!! yay! I wish i got that one on landing, including the major fail after touch down. I forgot to turn off the throttle or hit throttle hold apparently. The heli tipped over from the sudden spool up after cooling, while i was walking over. I hit TH right away but it stripped the gear already. I thought i had gotten away with only a stipped gear till i put the next one on and noticed the pinion is broken 1 tooth. I'm looking at getting these as a replacement, mainly because they are cheap and very hard.

http://helidirect.com/rhino-gear-ult...450-p-6694.hdx

Hi Again, I'm back, with more questions if you don't mind.

I have spend lots of time leveling, balancing and it is pretty darn smooth. However, I'm still stuck with a few things. a) I can't get the gyro to control the rudder. When I move the bird around, the gyro attempts to keep the swash level, but is doesn't try to counteract the motion on the rudder. Also when I have my Gyro above 50%, the rudder moves slow and sleepy and does not promptly move back to center. My WOW instructions, that worked fine before my crash has the gyro set to 80% on 0 and 1 with no previous issues. If I got to below 50%, it is crisper, less sleepy, but the gyro still does not control the rudder??

I read in the instructions, right at the beginning, that in mode 2, the PIT and the AILE servos are inverted, and should be switched at the receiver. I looked at that and tried that, but it seems wrong, it works correctly when the PIT is connected PIT and AILE is connected to AILE. Was this for an early model?

Any ideas or hints?

Originally Posted by bradheli1

Hi Again, I'm back, with more questions if you don't mind.

I have spend lots of time leveling, balancing and it is pretty darn smooth. However, I'm still stuck with a few things. a) I can't get the gyro to control the rudder. When I move the bird around, the gyro attempts to keep the swash level, but is doesn't try to counteract the motion on the rudder. Also when I have my Gyro above 50%, the rudder moves slow and sleepy and does not promptly move back to center. My WOW instructions, that worked fine before my crash has the gyro set to 80% on 0 and 1 with no previous issues. If I got to below 50%, it is crisper, less sleepy, but the gyro still does not control the rudder??

I read in the instructions, right at the beginning, that in mode 2, the PIT and the AILE servos are inverted, and should be switched at the receiver. I looked at that and tried that, but it seems wrong, it works correctly when the PIT is connected PIT and AILE is connected to AILE. Was this for an early model?

Any ideas or hints?

The pit and aile servo wires and settings should not affect the rudder gyro, at least i don't think it should. If your using a stock walkera servo it is possible it went bad on you. Mine just went bad on me yesterday in flight. It still works mind you, but it heats up very quickly and only moves in spastic jittery motions and not in the full normal range it should have had. I installed the Fusonic servo i got a few weeks back anticipating this would happen because the stock servo ran very hot even though there was no binding and all limits were set correctly. So far it took some flipping of reverse switch settings on the RX for the gyro and the TX for the controls but the new $20 "Upgrade" servo with metal gears from wow hobbies is working nicely so far. Its cheap too. It's working so nicely in fact it tore my rocker arm mount off the boom!!! Lol, it was held on with one screw and some CA. I like to live on the edge. It finally busted loose and the aluminum broke in the center. Screw is still in there with half of the mounting bracket too.