Originally Posted by Hasselg

Thanks to all of You working intensely on improving the performance!

HenryV, I now got the AEO 27 mm 7 blade by mail. With reference to your post above:
1) Do You still recommend, as the simplest upgrade, exchanging the stock fan with this?
2) You had power cut-outs testing this upgrade while on ground, but have You had any in-flight power interruptions at all using the 7 blade fan?
3) In post # 791 fluxnstuff states that the 7 blade fan will require another ESC, but is that due to his high-power battery, thereby not being relevant flying on more or less stock battery-power?

Hasselg, the battery is not the issue, the more blades a fan has, the harder the motor will have to work and the more amps it will draw on the system. a stronger battery, if anything, makes everything work better. so no worries about the batt. except for the weight penalty.

as for "in the air" ESC overvolt "cutout", we need HenryV or others to remark, but i can tell you, regardless of their experience, a 7 blade fan in a stock setup is more than it is designed to handle Amp wise. not to mention the shorter flight times it would have on the stock batt.

a 7 blade and upgraded battery (no external ESC) offers significant PW improvement 0.77 (vs 0.71 stock) but you can't expect it to be there on command. however, adding a XP12a ESC (+6g) to make it "on demand" negates/offsets the additional thrust you gain from a 7 blade fan.

in conclusion, for me, this route is a dead end. hope that helps.

Thank You, fluxnstuff! - and I do agree..

However:

Posts # 272, 276, 283 indicate that only static runs lead to cutouts, whereas in-flight its running smoothly (due to lower demand on the motor airborne, when air is being "fed" through the intakes with forward air speed).

I am not looking for 1:1 thrust to weight, but easy gains in thrust...

Originally Posted by Hasselg

Thank You, fluxnstuff! - and I do agree..

However:

Posts # 272, 276, 283 indicate that only static runs lead to cutouts, whereas in-flight its running smoothly (due to lower demand on the motor airborne, when air is being "fed" through the intakes with forward air speed).

I am not looking for 1:1 thrust to weight, but easy gains in thrust...

well that data wins that argument...

go for it.

The 7-blade is an easy upgrade but other lipo's then stock are required to get the extra performance and extra flighttime.
I used the 7-blade with the Miniaviation 300mah's. Only some static tests on the ground gave cutouts in the beginning. And with the installation of the mini heat sinks on the Fet's the temps of the brick dropped big time and I could also WOT the 7-blade static without cutouts.
The heatsink mod is also very easy and very cheap !

Also discovered that preheating the lipo's made a difference in performance, this is recommended with normal Outside are temps but required on colder winter days.

Currently still flying with the Turnigy 1220 motor on 3S and stock fan
That gives a lot extra performance compared to the the 7-blade/2S setup.
Some extra work and costs obviously. 1220 motor needs to be fitted with high RPM bearings, Nitro's 12mm motor custom EDF-unit, very proper balancing of the stock fan etc.

Thanks for empirical inputs, HenryV!

I have got the 7 blade fan and I am considering the MiniAviation LiPo's..

But what is this about the heat sink mod?

1) Is it risky business tampering with/soldering the stock board?

2) And just how do You do it regarding hardware and technique required, risks involved etc.? Any photos?

Happy landings to all of You

in my quest for the 1:1MIG15 i have learned much and want to share the skills and techniques required to add an external ESC to your stock "brick". in this long (45min) video you will learn step by step how to graft a XP-12a to the MIG15 receiver board (brick). i also go over all the parts and equipment you will need.

1:1MIG15 - How to add an external ESC to your MIG (47 min 0 sec)

Originally Posted by Hasselg

Thanks for empirical inputs, HenryV!

I have got the 7 blade fan and I am considering the MiniAviation LiPo's..

But what is this about the heat sink mod?

1) Is it risky business tampering with/soldering the stock board?

2) And just how do You do it regarding hardware and technique required, risks involved etc.? Any photos?

Happy landings to all of You

Heatsink mod is VERY easy,it is described in detail in my other post about the Turnigy 1220 mod. It's nothing else then sticking two small heat sinks on the fets with double sided tape. Costs a few bucks, no soldering required, no risk. And cutting a little piece out of the plastic canopy hatch to let the heat escape out of the canopy. Thats it !

Thanks fluxnstuf for this video, do the flash with usb link to refresh the sofware on the XP-12a improves performances of this ESC??? how many ?
I have the programming card and some XP12A V2, do the USB stick is better than programming via the program card??

Have a nice day

Originally Posted by pirulin

Thanks fluxnstuf for this video, do the flash with usb link to refresh the sofware on the XP-12a improves performances of this ESC??? how many ?
I have the programming card and some XP12A V2, do the USB stick is better than programming via the program card??

Have a nice day

my pleasure to share. the stock firmware on the XP12a is good compared to other ESC's (including castle creations stuff), however the BLHeli firmware upgrade is in another league all together. simply an OUTSTANDING upgrade to the XP-12a.

here are some datapoints:

1) the XP-12a stock firmware preforms exactly as advertised. 12amps continuously, 15amp bursts for 10 sec, then the overheat/overvolt cutoff kicks in. adding heat sinks make little difference in this regard.

2) the XP-12a with the BLHeli rev9.4 Firmware can do 15amps continuously. at room temperature (72F), no heat sinks, no additional airflow. i was very impressed.

3) the XP-12a in side by side comparisons with the castle creations Phx25 ran the same setup a full amp lower (~14.5 vs ~15.5). as a result i saw an extra 20-30 secs from the battery (TP325 2S 65c). in the air that could be as much as 30-50 sec of extra flight time.

4) and i know this does not relate directly to your question, the XP-12a and stock Brick as constructed in my video weighs 11.8g combined, where the Phx25 and stock brick weigh 16g (also stripped down). that is a huge difference in the air.

i would like to also point out there are several vendors of Heli parts that will sell you a XP-12a for around $20 bucks with BLHeli FW rev9.4 already flashed on it. however, in my video i show you how to do it all on your own, so you don't need to ask anyone for help. if you are polite and ask nicely i bet these vendors will even program the XP-12a for the 16200kv EDF, which requires a dif setup than what a heli uses and they sell.

XP-12a BLHeli config for the MIG15:
* Governor: Disabled
* Startup Acceleration: 1.5
* LVC: 3.0v
* Motor Timing: High

Recommended Vendors: Asteroid Designs and TopCopter Productions

http://astroid-designs.myshopify.com...xp-7a-1-2s-esc
http://www.topcopter.com/xp12a-esc-p/30.htm

VIDEO: How to reinforce the horizontal stabilizers.

sorry about the quality of this one. no time to redo it with better lighting.

1:1MIG15 - How to reinforce the horizontal stabilizers (22 min 4 sec)

ok, so both Asteroid Designs and TopCopter Productions have agreed to sell a XP12a flashed with BLHeli r9.4 and configured to my spec for +16000kv EDF.

give it a day or so and you will be able to select "fluxNstuff EDF" as an option on the XP12a product pages.

Thanks a lot for these greats datas.
Found on RCG :
I think this type of connection as shown below is ingenious to flash, it avoids having to solder on the board of the ESC.
Look at the principle, I think it can be adapted with a piece of test card type "veroboard" on which is safely solder three rigid pins to connect the flash sticker. Then, after assembly on a clothespin it becomes quicker to flash.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/attac...mentid=4365679

http://static.rcgroups.net/forums/at...g?d=1319318504

there's also YGE,
http://www.yge.de/artikel.php?search=yge12s
2,9g ohne Kabel

Originally Posted by kalmon

New Twist on AS3X!! A custom software that allows independent incremental gain adjustment on each surface and (possibly) a way to enable and disable the gyros remotely using channel 5. Also stick override priority for each axis as well.

Software here. I am hosting this at my personal webserver. Files have been scanned with Kaspersky 2013 and clean of malware/spyware/virus.

-Brian

Hi Brian

Just tried this sofware on my UM Spitfire AS3X brick and this is what I have been waiting for. Works perfectly, I can independently adjust all the gains on each gyro as well as load the canned setups and you can turn the AS3X on and off using channel 5 on my transmitter. Awesome Now I should finally be able to stop the wings rocking on my Microaces FW-190. Thanks.

Kevin

XP-12a is now avaliable from topcopter productions pre-flashed with BLHeli r9.4 and the 1:1MIG15 settings. go to this page and select "fluxNstuff EDF" from the BLHeli pull down menu.

http://www.topcopter.com/xp12a-esc-p/30.htm

options include:
1) 3 pin motor plug.
2) battery lead "mini t plug" is a micro dean if u use them.
3) flash plug added: this lets you re program the firmware no soldering required. you will need a USB tool stick.

All optional equipment is sold seperately on the topcopter website under MCPX. the stock battery connector for the MIG15 is the same as the battery connector used on the 130x heli. also look under there too.

NOTE: you CAN'T drop a HP06v2 into a AEO 28mm shroud without a longer 12mm (in the air) shaft. the shapeways shroud nitrocharged made can use a stock HP06v2, but it has not arrived yet. I will be posting tests of it as soon as I get one.