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Old Jul 01, 2015, 07:13 PM
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Sig Smith Mini Plane

This is my first kit build so sure to need some help. Had tossed a question out for a good airplane for a Saito .56 and a Sig Smith Mini Plane was mentioned. Dad had a kit sitting under his work bench so it has been dusted off and started. First day so far so good it seems.
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Old Jul 01, 2015, 07:45 PM
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Probably not the easiest thing to build for a first kit, but it looks like you're off to a great start! I doubt you'll have too many problems, but there's more help here than you can imagine in case you run into trouble.

Keep up the good work!
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Old Jul 01, 2015, 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by LVsoaring View Post
Probably not the easiest thing to build for a first kit, but it looks like you're off to a great start! I doubt you'll have too many problems, but there's more help here than you can imagine in case you run into trouble.

Keep up the good work!
Looks like he's off to a great start. But yea,you gotta watch out for biplaneitus Just one wing goes pretty quick. But in the middle of covering the second wing your ready to get it in the air.
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Old Jul 02, 2015, 05:54 AM
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Flew one of these in the 1970s. Great little plane.

Stands out in my mind even more because Futaba had just introduced the first transistorized digital proportional radios to North America. Made the Smith fly like a real airplane.

Bill
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Old Jul 02, 2015, 06:53 AM
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I also built one of these in the late 70s. Power was a Super Tigre 46 - a great flyer. The build was straightforward. I remember the cabanes being easier than the typical biplane. There's a ply joiner running front to rear on each side. This allows for some adjustment where the upper wing bolts on to get the correct alignment.

Jim
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Old Jul 02, 2015, 08:55 AM
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Captdan,

Most kitchen tables ( what it looks like your building on ) are not usually as straight and flat as they seem to be. I would suggest getting a one of those particle board ( Melamine I think they're called ) shelves and tape your building board ( ceiling tile?? ) to it. They come in many different widths and lengths, are very flat and warp resistant unless soaked in water.

Mike
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Old Jul 02, 2015, 10:08 AM
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Captdan,

Most kitchen tables ( what it looks like your building on ) are not usually as straight and flat as they seem to be. I would suggest getting a one of those particle board ( Melamine I think they're called ) shelves and tape your building board ( ceiling tile?? ) to it. They come in many different widths and lengths, are very flat and warp resistant unless soaked in water.

Mike
Thanks Mike, Hopefully everyone will help keep me headed the right direction here. I have a piece of laminated hard cork flooring with a piece of drywall on top of that. Checked it with a straight edge and marked area's of the board to stay away from. Also, have a larger board made from 3/4" ply of good quality. Plan to lay drywall on that as well when the time comes.
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Old Jul 02, 2015, 10:28 AM
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I built this one last year and with went electric power. I covered it with Solartex and painted with Rustolum paint. I have several pictures throughout the build so if you have any questions I can help you with don't hesitate to ask I would be glad to help if I can. BTW this is not my first build and it was a challenging build, just the way I like them. I'll be watching your progress.
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Old Jul 02, 2015, 11:20 AM
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A good building board is a hollow "damaged one side" bedroom/bathroom door. Easy to stick pins in. Have used a few over the years. Lumber yards sell them at a discount. Eyeball them for straight.

Bill
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Old Jul 02, 2015, 02:37 PM
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Day 2 got a few more hours in. Second side of fuselage glued up. Seems the glue wipes out of the tight joints. Is the wetted surface all that's needed for those joints or should I come back with some thin CA or something else later?
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Old Jul 02, 2015, 03:00 PM
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When I frame up stick fuse sides like that I like to use wood glue and really fill the less than perfect joints. Then just let it set overnight. Thin CA isn't going to fill any gaps, you would need thick CA or follow it with some wood glue now.
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Old Jul 02, 2015, 03:45 PM
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Agreed... I very rarely use thin CA anymore but I do use it for very tight joints, situations where its hard to clamp things in place, to "Harden" balsa like screw holes, and only on balsa-to-balsa connections ( Its usually worthless on balsa-to-hardwood or hardwood-to-hardwood connections ). For framing like this, I like medium CA. In the past I've avoided Wood "yellow" glue because it took so long to dry but I recently found Gorilla brand wood glue and find myself using it more and more. It can give you time to work but dries much faster than other "yellow" glues I've tried.

One thing about gaps. Glue, ANY glue by itself as a structural component is worthless. You can however mitigate some of this by adding a structural filler. In this case you could save up some balsa sanding dust and pack the joints. A quick hit with some thin CA and you will be surprised how strong it is. You could also add some dust to some wood glue and pack it in. Some guys also use talcum powder. As mentioned thick CA is sometimes used to "fill" small gaps because it has a small amount of filler thickening agent added to it but I prefer not to do this. Large gaps can filled with balsa "slivers".

Be advised that what ever filler you add will most likely make a hard spot so be careful when sanding that you don't remove too much raw material around the joint you are trying to sand flush.

In any case, nothing will take the place of, or look as nice as, a tight well fitting joint with a minimal amount of glue. This is what you should be striving for with every joint you make.

Mike
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Old Jul 02, 2015, 05:05 PM
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The U-shaped joints are pretty tight. My concern was basically wiping all the glue off as the sticks were pressed in. Was thinking about thin CA for those but ended up dampening the joint Super Phatic and pressing it together. I'm using mostly Titebond II and a bit of Super Phatic where it seems appropriate. Have used the balsa dust mixed with glue for fillers in the past but none required so far. Thanks for the tips.
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Old Jul 02, 2015, 09:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by green river rc View Post
I built this one last year and with went electric power. I covered it with Solartex and painted with Rustolum paint. I have several pictures throughout the build so if you have any questions I can help you with don't hesitate to ask I would be glad to help if I can. BTW this is not my first build and it was a challenging build, just the way I like them. I'll be watching your progress.
Yours looks like the real thing.

I used to own one and it was like getting into white water kayak, forget getting out if you had a problem. ha ha
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Old Jul 03, 2015, 01:07 AM
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wish I could build along with ya, (so many irons in fire)

built one a few lifetimes ago, had it fully covered with neutral solartex, (great stuff) thanks too a lifestyle change, ( I lost it before ever painting it!)(could have been flown, just needed paint)

good luck with your build!
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