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Old Sep 03, 2014, 08:16 AM
Life is a Hobby
Canada, ON, Delhi
Joined Aug 2012
930 Posts
I have used lamp black in the past for inletting rifle barrels into wood stocks. Put some carbon on the barrel and it shows where the barrel is tight on the wood.

Lamp black is produced by the incomplete combustion of carbonaceous material such as pine pitch, oils/fats, paraffin and coal tar. The colour can be anywhere between brownish-black and blueish-black depending on the material being burnt and the fineness of the resulting carbon particles.

If the blueish-black form was mixed with yellow zinc chromate then that would account for the final green colour.

Bill
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Old Sep 05, 2014, 02:22 PM
Life is a Hobby
Canada, ON, Delhi
Joined Aug 2012
930 Posts
Decided to paint the wing fillets with TremClad Flat Black. If an iron-on covering is applied to a concave surface, no matter what prep is used or how tight it is applied, sooner or later it will bubble. Even SolarTex which is an easy covering to work with. So applied 3 coats of Bob Smith finishing epoxy to the balsa fillets, sanding between coats. Masked off the fuselage, sprayed on the Tremclad and there it is - a no bubble covering.

The canopy in this kit is the same one they have been using for 30 years. There are some flaws at the rear, specifically the lack of a raised upper horizontal frame linking the tops of the two vertical frame segments in the middle of the large rear panels to the rest of the canopy frame. I masked off this missing frame on either side. Would have to use a magnifying glass to see there is no raised frame.

Glued in the pilot and instrument panel. Glued on the canopy with Pacer 560. Masked the canopy with Parma FasMask, a liquid latex. Removed the mask over the canopy frames with a new #11, scuffed the frames with a pencil eraser to give the plastic some tooth and cleaned with alcohol. Used automotive masking tape to border the flash matching the canopy on the side of the cowl. Taped off the rest of the fuselage and sprayed with TremClad Red. After curing, removed all the masking and tape and am fairly satisfied with the final result.

Next is glueing on the exhaust stacks and applying decals. The pre-WWII Flying Tiger decals came with the kit. I bought a sheet of Major USAAF WWII decals. Getting close to the maiden.

Digitals below of the canopy work.
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Last edited by erie_flyer; Sep 05, 2014 at 02:35 PM.
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Old Sep 07, 2014, 01:09 PM
Life is a Hobby
Canada, ON, Delhi
Joined Aug 2012
930 Posts
Getting closer to the maiden. Applied decals. Glued exhaust stacks.

Installed a digtial tach up through the cockpit floor so it sits in front of the pilot. If the tach is on I know the ignition is live. When I am standing over the P40 in the pits running up the engine I can see the tach down through the canopy. Allows me to make sure the DLE20RA is turning 200 RPM below max so it can unload in the air.

Installed fuel tank as far back as possible against the servo tray. That puts it close to the CG so amount of fuel in the tank doesn`t affect balance. The tank fit snuggley between formers F2 anf F3 locking it in place. The pump in the Walbro carb allows for liberal tank placement.

Installed DLE20RA, ignition module and Turnigy KILL switch. Don`t have retracts in this P40 so put the Turnigy Rx switch on the retract channel. The Turnigy controls the red ignition battery wire going to the ignition module. But being plugged into the Rx it sees the Rx battery as well. So there must be a common ground wire between the two batteries for the Turnigy to work properly.

Best place to mount the ignition module is the chin plate. That way don`t have to drill any holes in the firewall to route the various ignition wires. Plenty of room under the large lower plastic cowl. Anchored the module with velcro and a cable tie. Threw away the C-spring in the sparkplug cap. Replaced with a 3/4 inch hose clamp for easy insertion and removal of the cap.

Last decision is where to put the two batteries relative to the CG. These TF balsa kit warbirds are notorious tail heavy. Will use my TF balsa Spitfire as a guide.

Digitals below of final steps.
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Last edited by erie_flyer; Sep 08, 2014 at 08:19 AM.
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Old Sep 09, 2014, 08:43 AM
Life is a Hobby
Canada, ON, Delhi
Joined Aug 2012
930 Posts
P40`s fully assembled weight is 9 1/2 lb, about in the middle of the factory specs.

Now to balance the plane. GP has a wonky way of placing the balance point on the wing. Usually the starting point is at the sides of the fuselage. There is a straight portion of the wing on the P40 at the fuse that would make this easy. But GP places the balance points at the ribs W6 way down the tapered LE of the wing. This is wider than my GP Balancing Machine so the CG point at the fuse sides must be extrapolated from the full size plans.

I placed the Rx and ignition batteries on the CG to start. Way nose heavy. The big DLE20RA gasser combined with the 4 inch spinner and large cowl structure more than balances the heavy tail structure. Placed the two batteries as far back in the fuse as possible and still seems a bit nose heavy. I think. A little doubt in my mind because of the obtuse CG point in the manual. But I will stick with it for the maiden.

Digitals below of the finished P40 and some details of the build.
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Old Sep 09, 2014, 09:37 AM
Registered User
United States, TX, Amarillo
Joined Mar 2005
73 Posts
Nice looking. good luck with the maiden.
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Old Sep 09, 2014, 10:47 AM
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United States, NC, Randleman
Joined Nov 2011
267 Posts
Good luck with maiden!
Going to get video?
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Old Sep 12, 2014, 04:39 AM
Ldm
Registered User
Ldm's Avatar
United States, PA, Conestoga
Joined Jun 2006
8,386 Posts
Very nice work !! Looking forward to your successful maiden .
Good luck !
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