New builders/flyers may find the task of soldering tiny capacitors somewhat daunting. Since this is a starter plane Multiplex should preinstall the capacitors. I can't remember if I had to install mine for the EZ or not.... Or was it for a GWS Slow Stick motor...... If you have not soldered you need to learn how and practice before attempting this task.

Just in case, I should have included a "how to do it" in the build thread. The Multiplex instructions of what needs to be done seem clear to me, however, the actual prep and soldering process can be tricky.

I remember using needle nose pliers and connecting one side of the capacitor to the terminal going through the terminal and twisting back around. You want to make sure the connection is nice and tight so it won't block the terminal hole where you will eventually get around to soldering the ESC power wires.

I made sure the area on the motor can was clean (alcohol). To make it easier I put a tiny dab of flux on the can where the other capacitor lead connects to make the solder flows and stick quick.

I've used all types of soldering devices, cold-heat soldering iron (junk), guns, butane, etc. I now only have three, a Radio Shack 100 watt gun, a 25 watt pen, and a butane powered field iron. I use my $12.99 Radio Shack 100 watt gun for just about everything (making batteries, connecting deans, soldering clevises, motor wires). It's fast. It heats up the work so fast that the job is finished before there is any collateral heat damage. Some say the instant soldering guns damage motor magnets and will erase your treasured 8 track Iron Butterfly tape. That's baloney. You are in and out so quick there no time for damage. All my motors work fine.

Anyway, if anybody has good capacitor install pic's to post it would be helpful for others.

Sarge

PS here is a pics of my old motor and one of soldering gear I described above. I did solder the extra CAPS. I used a non-Multiplex esc.

Here's another pic of cap installation FWIW. BTW, the caps shown are 0.1uF/100nF monolithic ceramic (10/$1). The internal caps (Permax 400) are IMO a bit low in value (27nF), as is the one sometimes included for across the terminals (10nF) but MUCH better than nothing. [Hope this is of use to somebody, a contribution instead of asking questions...]

Edit: Note the slight physical diffs between the Permax 400's that come in the Multiplex kits (Sarge) and this one purchased separately.

Sarge: I love your cutting mat, what brand is it? Looks like a Hobbico. I just got one a couple of weeks ago and it's not nearly as nice for all the markings. Mine has a metric grid only, I looked for one like yours and gave up. This is another thing I should have bought decades ago, using a cardboard mat like I've been doing just dulls the blade tips, the one part you really need sharp...

[QUOTE=sargentw]New builders/flyers may find the task of soldering tiny capacitors somewhat daunting. .........

Sarge, and you other guys that helped, you are "OK", and you know that THAT means "better than just ok"................

Thanks to all you folks that lent a listening ear and provided help, tips, opinions, suggestions, photos, directed us to other threads, etc....

Now if we could pull it ALL TOGETHER IN ONE PLACE............


Sincerely,
LarryR

Craigf,

Right, it's a Hobbico 18x24". The large ones are really nice cause you can spread work out without losing things. BTW: good closeup picture

Tower hobby has em; cheaper than cardboard.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...3p?&C=RAW&P=FR

Larry,

Roger that!

Sarge

Those mats are availabel at Michael's crafts stores.

Originally Posted by sargentw

BTW: good closeup picture
Sarge

Sarge: I *hate* taking pics, and it took me numerous shots to get that one, after you asked for a pic earlier. So don't think there was skill involved. I insisted on posting it even after you beat me to it just because it's so painful for me...

In between edits of that post I finally ID'ed your mat as Hobbico. Too bad I hadn't a couple weeks ago...returning the one I got, it's fine I guess but I like yours better.

rutat: I actually went to Michael's as well as the LHS's and office supply places around here. The nearest Michael's has no mats anymore, except a real tiny one for an outrageous price. I got mine at Staples. Great Hobbies has the Hobbico ones after all (much cheaper than Staples for the same size).

Originally Posted by CraigF

Here's another pic of cap installation FWIW. BTW, the caps shown are 0.1uF/100nF monolithic ceramic (10/$1). The internal caps (Permax 400) are IMO a bit low in value (27nF), as is the one sometimes included for across the terminals (10nF) but MUCH better than nothing. [Hope this is of use to somebody, a contribution instead of asking questions...]
Edit: Note the slight physical diffs between the Permax 400's that come in the Multiplex kits (Sarge) and this one purchased separately......................

Just for the record, my EasyStar purchased 10 days ago came with two capacitors in a little baggie (I'm not knowledgeable to know what's INSIDE the motor)............ The two "extras" were/are labeled 47nF......... for whatever it's worth (guys like ME just "gotta" know........... the n means NANO Farads; in my history I've seen "micro" farads used more in terminology, but these are nano....... meaning that they're 47x10-9 power, or (hope I can count right.......... )

0.000000047 FARADS..............

OK, there it is, and honestly, please DO correct me if I made a mistake.

LarryR

Larry, you are correct. Though nF is still not commonly used on this side of the pond, it's been (sensibly) used in Europe for decades. Easier to write 47nF than 0.047uF or 47000pF or worse ^^, skip that decimal point. I guess MP realises that the internal 27nF is a bit low, the 47nF's in parallel are plenty good. The bonus cap across the terminals is JIC, while the iron's hot...oddly, MP includes just that one (they give you 10nF) when you buy the motors separately, at least with the last few I've got.

http://www.staples.ca/ENG/Catalog/ca...affixedcode=WW @4 CAD for the large ones. IIRC that was the same price as I saw at Michaels AFTER the weekly 40-50% off coupon they hand out.

rutat: that's the one I have now. The same one as Sarge's is a few bucks cheaper at GH. It's not the bucks, just that the grid on the Staple's ones is not very useful to me. But it's a decent mat nonetheless. I want to use it as Sarge said, like a large "desk pad" for my main modelling table, much better than the cardboard ones I use now.

[Michael's has outrageous prices, anything you buy even at 40% off is still usually more than other retailers, though it's hard to compare many things since nobody else has them. But when they do... I used to have a Michael's about 2 miles from here, but it closed down years ago, so have to go quite a ways now. That store has much much less useful "modelling" stuff than the old local one did. They even used to sell balsa/foam plane models and rockets and supplies etc., almost like a hobby shop inside a craft store. And in those days their prices were *excellent* even without a coupon.]

Funny - out west Michaels is not bad - esp. since their main competitor went out of business. They even sell those 4 -5 foot foam gliders! And those coupons drive me nuts, but I use 'em - mostly for UHU glue which for some bizarre reason the LHS does not sell even though they sell Depron and EPP sheets! GO figure.

For all Aussie readers:- I got my 12" x 18" Mat from "SPOTLIGHT" super sewing stores. I think it was $24.00. Metric one side Imp. the other.

Cheers. Patrick.

If I did it again I'd have gone for largest mat. Tower hobbies has em and usually there is a discount code hanging around. These things are great, nice templates for cutting, you can put stick pins in to hold your work, solder doesn't seem to hurt it, epoxy does not stick to it and on and on....

You also need a model plane holder. You can see the holder I use in earlier posts. The holders make it a snap to build new planes and hold existing ones for repairs. In addition, the holders are great for programming and checking the trim settings for your models. The holders have open trays to hold misc parts.

Sarge

The benefits of adding ailerons to my Easy Star far exceeded my expectations, especially when combined with adding a brushless motor.

The following posts include everything I learned about the installation of ailerons. I hope it is of assistance. I concede it is long. I am aware that there are other ways of doing this and I look forward to seeing these displayed in the future on this tread.

SUMMARY – Why an Easy Star – Why Ailerons – Choice of Size of Ailerons – Equipment – Flattening the Wings – Why Taped Hinges – Cutting and Attaching the Ailerons – Wiring – Cost & Weight – Other mods – Mixing / Travel / Flap Deflection / Exponential – Outcomes/Flying Characteristics – 4 planes in one.

Why an Easy Star?
• At 1.35m (4 foot 6 inches) span, it is a good size plane. A smaller plane is less stable and requires greater concentration on the sticks. A bigger plane can appear sluggish unless flown fast.
• I can fit it in my car without taking off the wings.
• Despite it being smaller than your 2 metre glider, its under-cambered wing section provides excellent lift, it can catch thermals and it is still big enough to be seen at a “thermalling” height.
• It is resistant to damage at the field, in transit and in storage and it is remarkably cheap and excellent value. I bought the RTF (Ready To Fly) version, complete with power-train, servos and receiver already plugged in, plus battery and charger, and had it in the air within an hour of purchase.
• The expensive and damageable bits are all encased in foam and the motor is a pusher and out of harm’s way.
• It is stable in calm weather and lands by itself.
• The plane in its stock standard form* is regularly considered the best first plane on the market, and also a relaxing and enjoyable plane for the experienced flyer. (*Small adjustment required on rudder.)

Why Ailerons? There are a number of reasons. I wanted to:
• Increase the range of winds that I could fly in;
• Make it more predictable in turbulence;
• Increase the range of aerobatic manoeuvres it could perform, including rapid rolls;
• Have a greater speed range – from gentle gliding to speedy flying;
Whilst still retaining that crash-resistance and “cheekiness” that this little plane has.

By following the steps contained in the next 9 posts, I achieved all that.