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Old Aug 12, 2011, 01:38 PM
duct tape and hot glue
bungholio's Avatar
Olympia,WA
Joined Dec 2009
294 Posts
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Vans RV-6A

I was looking at a power setup for my plane and I was wondering if there was a better and/or cheaper setup thats about the same kv and size?
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Last edited by bungholio; Dec 20, 2012 at 06:35 PM.
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Old Aug 12, 2011, 01:41 PM
duct tape and hot glue
bungholio's Avatar
Olympia,WA
Joined Dec 2009
294 Posts
Like would this be a good motor?
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...er_3400KV.html

I'm still not very good at choosing the right motor/power setup so i appreciate the help
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Old Aug 12, 2011, 02:20 PM
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Tim Cullip's Avatar
USA, NC, Apex
Joined Aug 2003
836 Posts
I'd be a little concerned about the KV rating of the HK motor (3400 rpm/v) compared to the Park180 (2200 rpm/v). That implies to me that the HK motor is designed more towards smaller props (though they don't seem to list any suggestions or examples). Otherwise they look similar (size, weight, etc.). I just have this feeling that the HK motor would be more bogged down if fitted with props on the large end of things (like a 6x3), but if you are interested in speed (small diam props at hi rpms) over thrust (large diam props at lower rpms) then the HK might be a good choice.

I've used the following with pretty good results (though I don't know how it compares to the Park180 since I've never used on of those:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...nner_10g_.html

What type of model are you targeting the motor for (size, weight, speed, type of flying, etc.)?

Tim
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Old Aug 12, 2011, 03:45 PM
duct tape and hot glue
bungholio's Avatar
Olympia,WA
Joined Dec 2009
294 Posts
Rv-6a

Here is the plane I'm building out of some 3mm EPP (might be depron.. not sure) off a 25% version of some RV-6F (f for floats) plans i found, but i am going to put the normal tricycle gear on it. Here are some pictures of the build so far. the wing was hot wire cut, a clark-y airfoil, and it has a 21 inch span. Everything you see as of now weighs 17 grams.
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Old Aug 12, 2011, 03:51 PM
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Windsor, Canada, near Detroit
Joined Jul 2007
4,770 Posts
options for 180

the hk 1811-2000 is a good choice. more powerful, but only about 2 grams heavier. both handle the gws 6/3 and 7/3.5 well with 2 cells from 200 to 360mah. i have been using the 180, the 1811-2000, the c-10-2100 and similar motors with good results.
the size/weight of models that i have been using since the release of the 180 in 2007 for these is about 24-30 ws, 144 to 170 sq in and 140 to 175 grams (some 5 to 6oz). see my blog for more details.
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Old Aug 12, 2011, 08:15 PM
duct tape and hot glue
bungholio's Avatar
Olympia,WA
Joined Dec 2009
294 Posts
Alright thank you. I have a 18-11 2000kv hk motor on hand so ill try that out first. what 2s battery should i use? im hoping to get around 5 min flight times.
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Old Aug 12, 2011, 08:19 PM
duct tape and hot glue
bungholio's Avatar
Olympia,WA
Joined Dec 2009
294 Posts
Also, looking forward on the model, i plan on replicating my dads RV6a which is polished aluminum with blue trim. I pondered the thought of using tin foil as covering, but i wasn't sure if that was just plain ridiculous. has anybody done something like this before or is there aluminum-colored monokote or another solution?
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Old Aug 12, 2011, 09:22 PM
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Tim Cullip's Avatar
USA, NC, Apex
Joined Aug 2003
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I'd suggest something in the range of 2s 200 mah to 300 mah. If you only need 5 minutes then a 200 would most likely do it, but closer to 250-300 mah would probably provide less voltage sag under power.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bungholio View Post
Alright thank you. I have a 18-11 2000kv hk motor on hand so ill try that out first. what 2s battery should i use? im hoping to get around 5 min flight times.
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Old Aug 13, 2011, 12:40 AM
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Windsor, Canada, near Detroit
Joined Jul 2007
4,770 Posts
choices

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Originally Posted by bungholio View Post
Alright thank you. I have a 18-11 2000kv hk motor on hand so ill try that out first. what 2s battery should i use? im hoping to get around 5 min flight times.
when i started flying my Talisman with a 2x200 (16 grams) i got 15 minutes flights, and with a rhino 2x360 (22 grams) i get 20 minutes flights. your choice.
but that's with my planes, so it depends of several factors on the design.
and the 1811-2000 is a great motor. don't ask me how many i own. i think it's your best choice.
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Old Aug 13, 2011, 12:46 AM
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Windsor, Canada, near Detroit
Joined Jul 2007
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covering

Quote:
Originally Posted by bungholio View Post
Also, looking forward on the model, i plan on replicating my dads RV6a which is polished aluminum with blue trim. I pondered the thought of using tin foil as covering, but i wasn't sure if that was just plain ridiculous. has anybody done something like this before or is there aluminum-colored monokote or another solution?
and about the covering, if you are after an aluminum looks covering, i think chrome monokote is your best bet. it's lighter, does wrap around compound curves, is easier to apply, does not kink or show bends, has been in use for a long time, whilst the tin foil, well, is just the opposite.
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Old Aug 13, 2011, 04:49 PM
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bungholio's Avatar
Olympia,WA
Joined Dec 2009
294 Posts
Covering Q's

Alright. Thank you all for your input and i will keep you posted on my progress. I will probably use the chrome monokote. That will look very nice.
About covering with monokote, i have only done that once before on a balsa model. on a foam model are the methods the same? should i add foam or balsa stringers (shown in red) to my model and then cover it, or cover it with a thin sheet of foam and then cover it with monokote?

Any good informational threads on covering foam with monokote?

Thanks!
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Old Aug 13, 2011, 05:41 PM
Registered User
Windsor, Canada, near Detroit
Joined Jul 2007
4,770 Posts
nononono

Quote:
Originally Posted by bungholio View Post
Alright. Thank you all for your input and i will keep you posted on my progress. I will probably use the chrome monokote. That will look very nice.
About covering with monokote, i have only done that once before on a balsa model. on a foam model are the methods the same? should i add foam or balsa stringers (shown in red) to my model and then cover it, or cover it with a thin sheet of foam and then cover it with monokote?

Any good informational threads on covering foam with monokote?

Thanks!
waiwaiwait a minute: i forgot that your plane is a foamie. iron-on stuff like monokote works fine on balsa, but the heat melts the foam. i don't think there is a way out.
on the other hand, using alum foil will make the plane way heavier, and am not sure it will stick properly to foam, and will show bends and wrinkles easily. frankly i don't know what stuff to suggest to you for your foamie.
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Old Aug 13, 2011, 05:46 PM
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JCHarrist's Avatar
Anchorage, Alaska
Joined Dec 2004
24 Posts
Maybe some thin mylar and 3M Super 77 spray adhesive?

It's gonna be difficult to get it wrinkle free though.
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Old Aug 13, 2011, 05:50 PM
Registered User
Windsor, Canada, near Detroit
Joined Jul 2007
4,770 Posts
only chance, but...

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Originally Posted by JCHarrist View Post
Maybe some thin mylar and 3M Super 77 spray adhesive?

It's gonna be difficult to get it wrinkle free though.
that's how ultra light indoor models are covered. it seems the only possible solution, but, as you say, wrinkles galore-and very east to rip it off.
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Old Aug 13, 2011, 05:55 PM
duct tape and hot glue
bungholio's Avatar
Olympia,WA
Joined Dec 2009
294 Posts
Okayy.. I wasnt sure about monokote on foam.. So if i put balsa stringers on top of the foam, could i use monokote? or would the heat melt the foam still?
Say none of this polished aluminum scheme workes out, what would be the best possible way to cover my foam frame plane?
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