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Old May 23, 2014, 12:40 AM
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Joined Jul 2007
266 Posts
It is old FSRV 3.5 hull of Merloti from 1985-1987
My friend found it and assembled electro for fun on the beach.
It is not ECO technology.
The shaft-line is straight type on 7.7 degree with the bottom.
The boat is Ok for fun, consume 1150- 1300 W for acceleration and les then 700 W as you see the speed is low (about 10 m/s) it is a pleasure boat.
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Old May 23, 2014, 01:55 AM
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Joined Mar 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ivaylo goranov View Post
Vincent

The acceleration has 2 components itself
Thanks, Ivo !

My son is going to enter the country contest this summer, although he 's got this boat only six months. And this battery is the best we can get.


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Last edited by zengvincent; May 23, 2014 at 02:06 AM.
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Old May 24, 2014, 02:28 AM
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Joined Jul 2007
266 Posts
The battery in Mini Eco are not the most important
I use 2400
No have good stickes on it


you can see how few mini eco are cornering




P1240836 (3 min 27 sec)



If your mini Eco does not corner without to lift unnecessary water or control of the drift around the boy any battery does not help you.

The results from data - logger taken after first heat on national competition
Battery +cables + connectror IR=0.0057
average I=14.5A
Also for almost 8 minutes(2 extra for pleasure after end of the formal race) I need 2.095 capacity (87.3%)
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Last edited by ivaylo goranov; May 24, 2014 at 04:50 AM.
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Old May 25, 2014, 10:42 AM
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Joined Mar 2014
3 Posts
Thank you, Ivo. learned so much from this thread,especially from you.

Yes, I should minimize the side slip. "Bigger rudder could restrict the drift and stabilize the boat. " Could it slow down the boat too much when travelling in a straight line.?

Vincent
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Last edited by zengvincent; May 25, 2014 at 10:48 AM.
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Old May 25, 2014, 05:48 PM
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Joined Jul 2007
266 Posts
The bigger rudder is giving bigger resistance for sure.
But Tenshock Mini-Eco can not stay on water otherwise on big speed
So bigger rudder extend the speed limits of the boat. Specialy when you race in group and water surface is mixture water-air
You loose from speed increase but take advantage of keeping wings out of the water during the turns
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Old May 28, 2014, 06:39 PM
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Old Jun 02, 2014, 11:05 PM
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Seattle
Joined Feb 2006
930 Posts
I just picked up a new Mini-Eco from minicat racing. I plan to use it as a boat for my grandsons to learn to drive, and self-righting will reduce the number of times we have to retrieve a boat when it flips. (We had them try run a bit with an SV-27, but those boats are just not very forgiving. Bump a buoy.,.. boat flips... retrieve ... try again .... rinse and repeat )

We are just going to run 2s, and stock hardware for now and a 2000mah battery pack.

The last little detail is I still need to get a bit more weight in the boat so that it will right itself.
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Old Jun 08, 2014, 05:44 AM
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That Mini-eco self upright itself very easy.
You suppose to have no problem If everything is right position like we discussed with Jonh some pages before.
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Old Jun 10, 2014, 11:49 AM
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United States, CO, Loveland
Joined Apr 2009
130 Posts
Ok, newbie questions, not a serious racer, just trying to figure out what this thread has said about the Mini Eco, and apply them to my own situation.

I currently own a Velocity Mono from minicat, bought used. And it does tend to self right without a flood chamber, the few times I have got it on the water with a 3S 2200. Except last weekend when I had to wade out in hip boots and was barely able to reach it capsized. Btw, I have some receivers that run on 75 and 50 mhz (Ham RC), and I have run rc submarines before. So a quick dunking won't break signal.

I don't want to race, just run the boat up and down. Buying a Mini Eco occurred to me, mainly because of the flood chamber self righting. I also realize it is a different handling boat. If someone can tell me the relative handling of the two boats, that would be good.

Mainly, I understand that the prop has to be changed to a non lifting prop? Where do I buy those, and specs to look for? As a newbie, I just want to pop a prop on there, not much modding.

The rudder may have to be changed... or can that just be left alone, I'm not racing? If it has to be changed, would someone in the States be able to cobble one up for me at a reasonable price?

I also get the idea that the hull bottom has ripples in it that need smoothing with bondo? This would be beyond my skill-set, and perhaps if this is true, someone can point me to another boat 15-26 inch long taking a 3S 2200 that would work better for me as a newbie.

Or perhaps these three things are not serious enough for all but a racer to care about?

Or...how to better make the Velocity self right. Already have the 3S in left side balanced 1/3 from back. Add weights to the very bottom of hull?

Thank you.
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Old Jul 12, 2014, 05:28 PM
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Joined Nov 2013
58 Posts
Going to post a video of this new setup soon(kukorelli glamour v2)
"Thanks again for selling this wonderful boat Mike"

Mega Motor 16/15/1 (8000rpm) , Hyperion 80amp (sep. BEC), Thunder Power 2S, 2250mah G8

Speedy and tight!
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Old Jul 20, 2014, 06:13 AM
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Joined Jul 2007
266 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by H2Ohaze View Post
Ok, newbie questions, not a serious racer, just trying to figure out what this thread has said about the Mini Eco, and apply them to my own situation.

I currently own a Velocity Mono from minicat, bought used. And it does tend to self right without a flood chamber, the few times I have got it on the water with a 3S 2200. Except last weekend when I had to wade out in hip boots and was barely able to reach it capsized. Btw, I have some receivers that run on 75 and 50 mhz (Ham RC), and I have run rc submarines before. So a quick dunking won't break signal.

I don't want to race, just run the boat up and down. Buying a Mini Eco occurred to me, mainly because of the flood chamber self righting. I also realize it is a different handling boat. If someone can tell me the relative handling of the two boats, that would be good.

Mainly, I understand that the prop has to be changed to a non lifting prop? Where do I buy those, and specs to look for? As a newbie, I just want to pop a prop on there, not much modding.

The rudder may have to be changed... or can that just be left alone, I'm not racing? If it has to be changed, would someone in the States be able to cobble one up for me at a reasonable price?

I also get the idea that the hull bottom has ripples in it that need smoothing with bondo? This would be beyond my skill-set, and perhaps if this is true, someone can point me to another boat 15-26 inch long taking a 3S 2200 that would work better for me as a newbie.

Or perhaps these three things are not serious enough for all but a racer to care about?

Or...how to better make the Velocity self right. Already have the 3S in left side balanced 1/3 from back. Add weights to the very bottom of hull?

Thank you.
Hi
The most easy way to improve your Velocity –mono to make the volume of upper part of the boat bigger (bigger cockpit or something similar secured with cellutape on the cover)
Steal plate under Battery works as well (0.5-0.7mm thickness )

Concerning Mini – Eco
Kukorelli or Toth Mini – Eco
boats are the only available options to have good boat ready for compeition race.
Tenshock mini-eco is also very good. But you need to rectify as advised before. If you are going to play only you do not need to correct everything only the hull
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