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Old Dec 22, 2014, 01:12 PM
Registered User
Michigan
Joined Feb 2008
81 Posts
Build Log
ML Boatworks 1/8 Scale 171 Extreme build - Miss Elam

Well I had so much fun with my smaller UL-1 this past summer that I just had to look into a bigger boat that I could build into a fast electric for racing this next summer. Talked with Mike from ML Boatworks quite a bit and decided to go with the 1/8 scale 171 Extreme kit the Miss Elam boat.

Now I have been an airplane builder for quite some time....since I was 15 when my dad and I would spend hours in the basement working on models. No servos then...just escapements....LOL. But this is my first try at building boats, especially an Unlimited Hydroplane. I will also be posting this build in another forum and I'll try my best to keep up with both of them.

In any case I will be looking for a lot of ideas and information from anyone that would like to chime in. OH....and I take the negative criticism too....as long as your nice about it....LOL :laugh: I don't think of there ever being a dumb question, except for those we don't ask. So if some question sounds a little on the dumb side, bear with me. Remember Iím new to boats and want to learn more.

What I'm planning for power with this boat after talking with Mike at ML Boats is the NUE 1527 1Y on 8S. 10S if they will fit. But I'm thinking for a racing profile that 8S is going to be more than enough. Not sure on the ESC as yet, but thinking itís going to have to be at least a 240amp. Was going to get more ideas from you folks on that. Also the running hardware from Accu-Tech seems to be the way most folks are going. Again any other ideas or suggestions out there are welcome. Ordered the cowl from RC Boats and the Wing set from Phil Thomas last week....so expecting them soon.

I have been reading up on the rules for these boats, but as we all know sometimes there are ones we might have missed. So if you know of ones that seem to keep coming back and biting guys please let me know. I think the biggest one that I have seen is that the drive dog cannot extend past the transom, so that means a thru hull drive shaft support. Appreciate your ideas of the size drive cable and stuffing tube to be used. Was thinking of the 1/4" reduced to 3/16.

Well I got started on this over this past weekend and pretty much have the center section done. Nice thing about this kit is that it builds pretty much in 3 separate sections. If you have a flat surface to work from, thatís about all you'll need to build a nice straight and square boat frame with this kit. Everything is perfectly laser cut, best I've ever seen. And everything fits perfect. The next thing to move onto will be the sponsons which should go fairly quick. When I ordered the kit I also ordered all the 1/4X1/4 and 3/16X3/16 square stock, plus all the sheeting for the boat from Mike.

I've attached some build photos from this past weekend. Pretty much started off by tacking everything together with thin CA and Med CA. The hull bottom sheet is all one piece. I thinned some 30 min epoxy and applied it to all the bulkheads and hull stringers and then positioned the hull bottom sheeting. Weight down and wait. At the same time I went over all the other joints with the thinned epoxy mix for a better bond with formers and stringers. I'll be coating them again later when I get ready to coat the inside of the boat.
Any suggestions are appreciated on what your using for sealing your boats....West System...etc.

Thanks All! Can't wait to get it on the water this spring. Itís all Ice right now...LOL

Mike S.
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Old Dec 22, 2014, 02:12 PM
RELAX. You'll live longer
785boats's Avatar
Brisbane- Australia
Joined Jul 2007
3,302 Posts
Hi Mike.
Welcome to the world of boats.
I've built a few of the ML Boatworks kits, & am a great fan. You've already seen why. The accuracy of the laser cutting & the quality of the wood. And how they just seem to fall together.

The motor you have chosen is what I run in my U-95.
The 1/4" drive shaft stepped to 3/16" is also what I use in the 1/8 scale boats too.
Make sure you get the motor with the 8mm shaft, because getting a 5mm to 1/4" flex coupler is impossible. An 8mm to 1/4" coupler is easy to find.

You will enjoy building & running this boat.
Here are a couple of build threads. Although they are of different boats, the build principals are very similar. You may pick up a few tricks & tips for your hull.
But as an experienced plane builder, I'm sure you have plenty of tricks of your own that will cover most situations.
Cheers.
Paul

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1689968
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2111263
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2263944
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Last edited by 785boats; Dec 25, 2014 at 01:31 PM.
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Old Dec 22, 2014, 06:37 PM
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Michigan
Joined Feb 2008
81 Posts
Evening Paul....Thanks for the great welcome.!! The information is really appreciated and the links. Actually have looked at a lot of those in the past month or so and learning a lot. This build is also over on OSE and one fella suggested the NEU 1527 1.5Y setup on 10S was working out on his boat perfectly. Have to see if 10S will fit this boat...LOL Mike from ML Boatworks indicated that it might be pretty tight.

I have been trying to study and figure out the sheeting process for this boat and some of the nose construction. This has a very long cockpit nose, but there doesn't seem to be any bulkhead reinforcement or corner reinforcement (say 1/8X1/8) called for and have not found anything on in the forums. Can you shed any light on that?

Thanks again for your help and great information.

Mike
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Old Dec 23, 2014, 02:01 PM
RELAX. You'll live longer
785boats's Avatar
Brisbane- Australia
Joined Jul 2007
3,302 Posts
Mike.
You will find that your plane building experience & instincts will serve you well here. Where ever you feel some strengthening is required with some 3/16" x 3/16" sq stock, just do it. Weight isn't as much of an issue compared to a plane.
Where ever a 1/16" skin butts against a bulkhead I always add a piece of 1/4" or 3/16" sq stock.
Where ever a skin butts against the edge of another skin I add a ply doubler over the joint on the inside of the hull.
In your last picture the dotted line on the bottom skin indicated to me that there should be another bulkhead there. Is it just not fitted yet?
On the Winston Eagle Canard that I'm building, I also added a piece of 1/4"sq stock across the top & bottom of the tub half way between that bulkhead & the one behind it. Also between that bulkhead & the nose. Just to give the skins a bit more support.

I also add some balsa to the top & bottom of the chine pieces at the tips of the sponsons & sand to shape. This gives extra surface area to glue the top & bottom skins.

The 10s setup suggested is also a proven 1/8 scale setup.
Being lower in revs it will allow a slightly larger more efficient prop.

Cheers.
Paul.
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Old Dec 23, 2014, 08:08 PM
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Michigan
Joined Feb 2008
81 Posts
Paul,

Thanks for all the great information. In more research and photo hunting I did find where you were talking about using 1/4X1/4 or 3/16X3/16 sq. stock around the nose joints (where the sheeting meets at 90 degrees...etc.) Also saw some good photo's of where balsa sq was added to the bulkhead formers to add more surface for gluing the sheeting.

The bulkhead lines you see on the bottom sheeting appear that there should be bulkheads going across there, but none are supplied that I can find. The two full bulkheads in the picture are all one bulkhead laser slotted for the main hull rails. Nice that there all one piece for a nice straight build and strength. I would have thought if those other two lines were for full width bulkheads they would have been designed the same way.

I think I will be looking at adding some sq stock to those areas though for some added strength. Was also planning on adding glass cloth to the whole transom and motor well area. Would it also be a good idea to add a heavier stock sheeting to that area as well?

Trying to also figure out one area on the back of the sponsons...it appears there is an angled bulkhead at the rear of each sponson. Just trying to figure out the placement, I'm sure it will come to me with a bit more studying.....LOL Just seems like that it will be obstructing the turn fin area on the right sponson. I know I must be looking at it wrong...give me time I'll figure it out..

I'm leaning more and more toward the 1527 1.5Y set up also. That's been recommended highly also over on OSE.

Thanks again Paul for the information. You can chime in any time...its all welcome!
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Old Dec 24, 2014, 01:17 PM
RELAX. You'll live longer
785boats's Avatar
Brisbane- Australia
Joined Jul 2007
3,302 Posts
Hi Mike.
The dotted lines I was mainly referring to were the ones half way along the nose. A piece of 1/4sq stock on all 4 sides would be advisable there, if no bulkhead was supplied.
A piece of glass down the centre of the tub is a good idea. If you do that. I don't think you would need to clutter up the floor with any stock on those other dotted lines. I think they were just drawn across the sheet to line up the two outside bulkheads.
The only thicker ply I have ever added is where the strut passes through the hull.
On the transom, I like to epoxy a piece of 3mm aluminium to the inside.

I can't help with the heels of the sponsons as I've not seen this style, or what you are describing, before.

Have a great Christmas.
Paul.
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Old Dec 24, 2014, 02:03 PM
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Michigan
Joined Feb 2008
81 Posts
Initial Framimg

Thanks Paul...

I see what your describing on the nose section....Yes all the sides will be reinforced with 1/4 stock and in looking at the cowling that I ordered from RC boatcompany there will be some added formers or stock in that area also for supporting and sealing the cowling.

On the heel of the sponsons there is an added piece of ply that is angled to the back of the sponson. I'm getting more of idea on a few builds that I have seen. Don Ferrette has built this boat and sent some pictures over. You can barely make out the heel of the sponson in the picuture though...

Good idea on the 3mm aluminum transom plate...should make it really solid.

Merry Christmas!!

Mike
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Old Dec 24, 2014, 02:50 PM
RELAX. You'll live longer
785boats's Avatar
Brisbane- Australia
Joined Jul 2007
3,302 Posts
I see what you mean now with the heel of the sponson.
I guess Don will be the one to help you out there, with what ever he did.

Cheers.
Paul.
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Old Dec 24, 2014, 06:58 PM
I feel the need for speed!
scorpion1's Avatar
Southern U.S.
Joined Jun 2008
7,354 Posts
Is this boat gonna be a 44 - 48 incher?
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Old Dec 24, 2014, 08:07 PM
Registered User
Michigan
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Hey Scorpion--this is a 43-44 inch model.
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Old Dec 25, 2014, 02:48 AM
I feel the need for speed!
scorpion1's Avatar
Southern U.S.
Joined Jun 2008
7,354 Posts
Ok, I had a 50 incher i ran on 9s2p with a Castle 2028, highest speed i got was 61.2 with a Prather, I tihnk it was like a 62mm diameter, I have to check. Castle 2028 is a great motor for this size hull and can be run on 10s as well........the brand new issue can run on 12s.
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Old Dec 25, 2014, 07:43 AM
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Michigan
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Hey Scorpion... I'll check it out.

Thanks
Mike
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Old Dec 25, 2014, 01:24 PM
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Seattle
Joined Feb 2006
1,051 Posts
Reading this just makes me want to build another boat.... like I need more boats...

But nice work!

Jim
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Old Dec 25, 2014, 01:43 PM
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Michigan
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Thanks Jim....

I'm already looking at my next one....LOL I'm thinking of the the185 hull.

Working on the sponsons...pic's soon.

How's everything in Seattle this morning? I have all my family out there....actually up in Stanwood.

Have a great holiday.

Mike
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Old Yesterday, 09:14 PM
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Michigan
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Sponson Framing

Well finally found sometime last night and today to continue building. Pictures are attached below....if you see some areas needing attention, feel free to let me know....

Finished up the initial framing of both sponsons and got some pre-sanding done to shape the stringers with all the formers. Still need to add some 3/16 Sq. stock to the top and bottom of the formers and add the rear heel formers before sheeting starts.

Also thanks to everyone for all your input and pictures. It sure has helped me plan ahead and look at other reinforcement areas around the nose and motor well.
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