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Old Yesterday, 01:06 AM
Chasin' that Neon Rainbow
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The ones I have done I have always had to power the ESC. I use a 9 volt battery.
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Old Yesterday, 01:10 AM
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Australia, NSW, Bowral
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Originally Posted by rcboosted View Post
So I got a few ancient Turnigy Plush 25A ESCs, they are ATMEL based. According to

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...BQkZZRlE#gid=0

it says I need tgy.hex, I got tgy.hex from the doc's referenced link:

https://github.com/sim-/tgy/downloads

I grabbed tgy_2012-09-30_0d3e617.zip and extracted tgy.hex
Try http://0x.ca/tgy/downloads/ for newer hex files.

Owen
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Old Yesterday, 01:40 AM
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Joined Sep 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grantham Kid View Post
The ones I have done I have always had to power the ESC. I use a 9 volt battery.
I tried powering it with my normal 3S lipo, same error message. The usbasp can no longer find the esc

Quote:
Originally Posted by OwenD View Post
Try http://0x.ca/tgy/downloads/ for newer hex files.

Owen
thanks for the new updated files. However, the usbasp is not able to even find the esc to flash it... The message I posted earlier shows up every time.

Some posts back someone mentioned updating the firmware on the usbasp? Not sure how to do that or if I'm even reading it right.
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Old Yesterday, 01:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcboosted View Post
I tried powering it with my normal 3S lipo, same error message. The usbasp can no longer find the esc



thanks for the new updated files. However, the usbasp is not able to even find the esc to flash it... The message I posted earlier shows up every time.

Some posts back someone mentioned updating the firmware on the usbasp? Not sure how to do that or if I'm even reading it right.
Firstly, powering the ESC from a LIPO for the purposes of programming it risks damaging the ESC. People prove everday that it works most times, and others proved that if you get something wrong, it can destroy the ESC. Make your own choices, but smart people don't power ESCs directly from LIPOs when programming them.

Your problem is most unlikely that the tgy.hex is old, nor the stale firmware in the USBASP.

If you did see the setup program the chip and verify EXACTLY as it is when you fail on retry, then something has changed. The first thing to come to mind is that programming incorrect fuses can 'brick' the chip for the programmer you are using. Putting an incompatible hex module on can cause the ESC to malfunction and you may not have supply volts to the chip... but if this happens and you are using a LIPO to power it, there will usually be smoke.

So. recheck that the fuses you used were correct... and that might be tricky because you used a front end that may have hidden that detail.

If you have not disabled programming with fuses, you have correct power supply to the MCU, and your programmer connections are good, you should be able to program the chip.

Owen
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Old Yesterday, 06:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OwenD View Post
Firstly, powering the ESC from a LIPO for the purposes of programming it risks damaging the ESC. People prove everday that it works most times, and others proved that if you get something wrong, it can destroy the ESC. Make your own choices, but smart people don't power ESCs directly from LIPOs when programming them.

Your problem is most unlikely that the tgy.hex is old, nor the stale firmware in the USBASP.

If you did see the setup program the chip and verify EXACTLY as it is when you fail on retry, then something has changed. The first thing to come to mind is that programming incorrect fuses can 'brick' the chip for the programmer you are using. Putting an incompatible hex module on can cause the ESC to malfunction and you may not have supply volts to the chip... but if this happens and you are using a LIPO to power it, there will usually be smoke.

So. recheck that the fuses you used were correct... and that might be tricky because you used a front end that may have hidden that detail.

If you have not disabled programming with fuses, you have correct power supply to the MCU, and your programmer connections are good, you should be able to program the chip.

Owen
Thanks for the detailed reply. Since this is my first reflash, I did not catch all of the prompt screens etc. I just remember connecting successfully without lipo, directed it at tgy.hex and hit write. A small window popped up with accumulating bars that said erasing, writing, verifying etc. As soon as that was done, the front end closed the little window and popped up the connection window and it fails with the message I posted 5 or so times. It's been doing that ever since. I'm not familiar with "fuses". I assume you don't mean physical fuses but an option before flashing? I can't really remember it's too new to me. That's why I picked BLHeli suite so it's idiot-proof. But I guess I'm beyond idiot.

I'm going to resolder the connection just to try something, I highly doubt it'll do anything though. But other than that, I can't get the usbasp to connect to the esc, so I can't program it any further. Unless someone has some other way or forcing new firmware to the esc.
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Old Yesterday, 06:24 PM
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so resoldering didn't do anything as expected. I did test that the pad is getting 5v. This is a bricked esc now?
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Old Today, 01:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcboosted View Post
so resoldering didn't do anything as expected. I did test that the pad is getting 5v. This is a bricked esc now?
If all the connections are correct, and there is 5V on the chip during programming, the only explanation that comes to mind is that the fuses have been cleared to disable serial programming.

If that has happened, it is REAL hard for you to fix.

Owen
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Old Today, 02:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OwenD View Post
If all the connections are correct, and there is 5V on the chip during programming, the only explanation that comes to mind is that the fuses have been cleared to disable serial programming.

If that has happened, it is REAL hard for you to fix.

Owen
I'm pretty sure the fuses have been cleared to disable serial programming. Since the connections are correct, I triple checked, and I checked there is 5v. How hard is it to fix? Is there even a guide some where? If it requires purchasing additional hardware, it's probably not worth it. But then again, I'd have to buy 3 more escs since I need them to match.
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