Gary, here are some posts with cart info.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1466

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=800

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=826

Dan, that is a awesome setup in that it is clean. As you have the links posted for me I saw the first link and was thinking how good it looked but how would I get the model lower to the ground. This box trailer I am looking at has a 7' door to fit into and I can get it made to 7 1/2' if I really needed it. When I saw your 3rd link where you flipped it over I was sold that this really could work for me.

NOW MY QUESTIONS.

I see the posts are from some time ago. How did this work out for you? Did you end up using it with success or did you end up abandoning it for something else like what I have where the hull sits sideways? With just what you have shown me I am tossing using a extension ladder for a base. I think you get what I am trying to do. With a box trailer I want to be able to slide out model and launch by myself and this seems perfect. Have to give it a long think in how I'll need it to work for me.

Thank you Dan

G

Gary,

I see the posts are from some time ago. How did this work out for you?
The "in-line" cart worked great at a local lake where the access
was a boat ramp and I had to cart the boat across a paved parking lot.
Did you end up using it with success or did you end up abandoning it for something else like what I have where the hull sits sideways?
I still needed the transverse cart for lakes where there was some rough terrain and rocky or steeper access. Bottom line, both styles are handy to have.
See the post on the modified transverse cart - that worked best, but wouldn't get Surprise into your trailer.
I'm thinking that an in-line cart would be best for your situation.
Tires need to be solid or you will be fighting a floating cart.

Posted details in the Syren thread - thought the info should also be noted in this thread.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=172
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=168
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=166

Sweet, nice and clean. That's when you know you've got it when it looks sweet and simple. This setup will be hard to beat.

You have heard it before, Nice Job.

G

This is a test. New camera phone and I want to test my uploading of a photo.

G

Yup! works good, good technology them smart phones

Nice pic's

........didn't know where to place this....so....instead of external ballast......why not a gyroscope?........

Gyroscopes don't have self-righting ability. They resist change of orientation, but once the change has occurred, they resist returning to "neutral". So, a gyro on a boat would resist the heel, but not necessarily stop it. Once heel occurred, then the boat would be stuck in that position until some force acted to right it.

On power craft, like ocean liners, gyros are used to fly the stability fins. The hull has 2 fins, one port and one starboard. The gyro acts to control the ailerons on the fins, thus using the hydrodynamic force generated by the fin to keep the hull from rolling. A sailor could do the same thing as the gyro, but apparently it's easier to automate the aileron control.

The other problem with gyros is that they don't neutralize force, but redirect it. A hull dependent on a gyro to stop roll would get pitch instead (or yaw, depending on how you set up the gyro). As a controller, gyros are great, but as a prime mover, not so useful to a boat. They work great on bicycles, of course: you lean and the bike turns - roll (lean) is converted into yaw (turn).

thanks for the info brooks!.....might be fun to get a little gyro and a simple hull, and make like a kid in the bathtub have to say i'm so impressed with the brains in this forum

Some suggestions to consider in a build of an expensive large scale model: since the electrical "stuff" is below a sealed hatch, there are times you need to get quick access without removing the hatch, or get access out on open water where you don't want to open the hatch.

- Set up the main power switch to be activated through the deck. Use a DPDT switch to disconnect both pos and neg battery leads, with the second set of contacts used for charging/voltage check.
- Have a "power-on" LED showing above deck.
- Have a water sensor circuit in place to indicate water in the hull - a loud alarm and even a bilge pump can be activated.
- If using a Tx requiring binding, wire in a bind switch that is easily accessible.
- Mount the Rx in a location that allows you to see the status LED through a small "window" in the deck (eg, use an LED lens)
- Add easily accessible charging lugs or a charging plug. Allows both on-board battery charging and a way to quick-check the battery voltage.

Some info on stropping blocks with hooks for rigging gun tackle:

Making your own hooks from brass wire:
http://www.modelboatyard.com/hooks.html

ADDED: Some excellent 5mm long hooks from Caldercraft - see attached pic.
Available from Cornwall Model Boats

http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/...aft_83510.html

Stropping blocks:
http://www.modelboatyard.com/stropping.html

From another post showing use of the eyes from dress hook&eye sets:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=250

A great source of cheap dress eyes (used to make hooks) - from Manhattan Wardrobe Supply:
http://www.wardrobesupplies.com/products/eyes-1-gross

And for Gutterman thread that is the best i've found for twisting your own line:
Thin thread:
http://www.wardrobesupplies.com/prod...olstery-thread
Thicker thread:
http://www.wardrobesupplies.com/prod...lyester-thread

And see this thread in Scale Boats for a 3D part printing approach hopefully useable and affordable for making gun tackle and other rigging parts (eg stropped blocks)
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=196

GOOD ;possting