Hi helicrapter,
There are three main things that can cause the tail rotor problem;

1st] The PCB board - most likely.
When my original 8006 PCB board stopped working after a mere 30 flights or so, the tail rotor just all of a sudden wouldn't respond right (tail rotor just turned a few turns slowly) on 3 joystick movement tries and then after that just totally stop responding.

2nd] The tail motor - tail motor failure could be the problem but not as likely.

3rd] The transmitter joystick’s internal controller - there’s a slight chance it could be failing if it got knocked over or got wet.


There are a couple of other little minor points that I wanted to add in.

My first point is something to avoid doing when troubleshooting. I would suggest never try testing the tail motor on the main motor connector pins on the PCB board. The reason is that the tail motor will burnout within about 10 seconds or so of testing it this way. How do I know this, well I once went against my better judgment in the quest to try to save a little time troubleshooting and I quickly ended up burning out a good tail motor. So simply put the electrical power coming from the PCB that is used for running the main motors is definitely way too much power for tail motor testing.

My second point is that since you mentioned that the tail motor wouldn’t work for the next flight, there is a slight possibility that the transmitter joystick is malfunctioning internally for some reason. This once happened with my 8005 helicopter’s transmitter (the 8006 transmitter is identically built internally) when just before a flight my 8005’s transmitter tipped over and fell off a table and onto a chair. Even though the transmitter had no batteries in it at the time and the fall was only about 2 feet, I found that the tail rotor joystick had stopped working. Even though I didn’t see anything broke inside the transmitter, I was able to get it working again by very carefully taking the joystick control apart as much as possible and very carefully cleaning the little internal slide contacts with a little piece of paper towel or soft rag. All though the joystick control isn’t really designed to be taken apart, I did get it apart enough so as to clean it and the joystick control did work good again after that.
But from what your saying and about the 4 tail rotor turns, (and I'm not 100 percent sure) but it does kind of sound like the PCB board has failed though.

Also too like Ken was saying, the Qs tail systems are built a bit on the fragile side. The tail systems seem to be pushed near their reliability limits if run at or near full power during the whole flight without any breaks in between, especially when flying in a breeze. This is true even when using stock size tail blades and when using the larger tail blades.

About the tail motor connection on the PCB board; the tail motor connector socket is located to the right of the main motor connectors when looking at the motor connectors head on. The LEDs lights and ON / OFF switch connections are on left side of the motor connectors.

Ray

Originally Posted by helicrapter

I tried it again this morning. The tail prop made about 4 complete rotations before it stopped working again.. any ideas of what this could be? anyone have a pic so i know what connection at the board is for the tail?

Hi helicrapter,
Wiring connections pic, my post of May 30, 2012. (Page 20).

Thank you guys for the help and info. Something is definately wrong. When I powered up the board just now both rear LED's blew out and smoke filled the air. I had not even moved any pins or removed any connections. Seems like maybe there is a short somewhere on the board. I haven't had this very long so im going to try and get a replacement from the ebay dealer, if not I'll just order a new board

Hi everyone,
Well I just ruined a good working 8006 PCB board by test trying a little motor from an RC airplane on the 8006’s tail system. Out of curiosity I wanted to see if a little RC airplane motor (a lower voltage, heavier made motor and the smallest RC airplane motor I had laying around) would run connected at the PCB board’s plug/pin connector for the tail motor. I figured if anything bad was going to happen that probably the lower voltage, little RC airplane motor would over heat or fry first before burning up the board, but I was wrong. The little motor never even had a chance to get warm. For about 3 seconds the little RC airplane motor revved up real nice and strong like I wanted for upgrading the tail rotor, but then the higher voltage 14.8 volt PCB board just quickly blew out with 2 loud snapping, popping sounds and then some smoke.
So from what I can see, the current 8006 PCB boards will only work with N50 tail motors and can’t handle any type of more powerful motor upgrade testing.
So it looks like to me to get any more forward and backup flying power out of the 8006 tail system for flying in stronger breezes or windy days, the 8006 will need a more powerful brushless system on it. Hopefully in the near future G.T Model will sell an optional brushless system for the 8006 helicopter of which would really increase the 8006 helicopter's flying power and versatility.

Ray

Hey all, just joined this a few days ago.
I bought a QS8006 a few weeks ago. Been flying nitros for a few years and decided to get this for fun.
No problems flying until it got out of range and had a nasty crash! I had to replace the main gears (mast was bent) and a few other parts.
Now when I try to take off, immediatley it trys to roll over on it's side.
Any suggestions? I did get it off a couple of times and was definetly not as stable as before it crashed and repaired.

Hi Ridinspurs,
That’s a new problem that I never have encountered before with my Qs8006 helicopter (or with my Qs8005 helicopter).

I was wondering though;
when your helicopter is trying to take off, does your helicopter roll over towards the same side during takeoff?
(Note; I wasn't 100 percent sure if you meant that your helicopter just tips over as it tries to takes off or if it begins to roll over once it starts flying, but the info. below would still pertain to both).

If your helicopter is rolling over towards the same side, then either the helicopter for some strange reason has more weight shifted way off to one side (something still bent or out of balance from side to side) after the crash,
Or
the main rotor shaft is now tilted more towards one side after the crash.
I tend to think the rotor shaft isn’t straight up and down like it should be either due to the rotor shaft’s plastic mount being bent or cracked loose, or the main side plate frame that holds the rotor shaft’s plastic mount is bent a little sideways.

It might be best to re-take the whole helicopter apart and carefully recheck the main side plate frame (and other parts) with a good straight edge for straightness and to double check that the rotor shaft’s plastic mount isn’t broke or cracked (or loose). The rotor shaft’s plastic mounts can crack or break in a hard crash. I had a rotor shaft mount crack once on my 8006 after a crash, then for some strange reason after a few more flights and hard landings the whole mount just started cracking apart.

With your 8006 helicopter's rolling over problem though, I am suspicious that the rotor shaft could be leaning a little towards one side.

I don’t know if my above information helps, but if you still have the problem after checking it over, just let us know.

Ray

Thanks Ray for the reply. Sorry it took me so long to get back, honey do stuff!
It seems to roll over in the same direction each time trying to take off. (not up in the air)
I replaced both shafts so they should be straight.
If I really horse it off the ground quickly, I can over come the roll over, but it's pretty squirrly in the air. Almost like the gyro is messed up.

I had posted before that I burnt the tail motor and the board on my 8006. I found a company selling a BnF 8006 new style for 65 dollars free shipping. Came with everything except the remote.

Flew really nice the first 2 flights 10 min+

I took the moded tail blade off my other 8006 and put it on the new one.. this thing really moves when there is no wind.. maybe 10+ mph

anyway starting with the 3rd flight im getting cut outs now about every 30 seconds or minute. One was so bad that dropped and broke 2 blades, the canopy, main shaft and landing gear.

Fixed all that and resoldered the antenna thinking that it was a bad joint from the factory. Still getting the cut outs like crazy after 30 seconds the thing just drops. My other 8006 before the board blew never had a single cut out with over 15 full flights.


Should I order a new board for this new QS? what do you think?

Originally Posted by Ridinspurs

Hey all, just joined this a few days ago.
I bought a QS8006 a few weeks ago. Been flying nitros for a few years and decided to get this for fun.
No problems flying until it got out of range and had a nasty crash! I had to replace the main gears (mast was bent) and a few other parts.
Now when I try to take off, immediatley it trys to roll over on it's side.
Any suggestions? I did get it off a couple of times and was definetly not as stable as before it crashed and repaired.

Check the ball links on the balance bar to the shaft. One tab broke off on mine and it was causing the same problem. Should be 2 links attached to the bar

Originally Posted by Ridinspurs

Thanks Ray for the reply. Sorry it took me so long to get back, honey do stuff!
It seems to roll over in the same direction each time trying to take off. (not up in the air)
I replaced both shafts so they should be straight.
If I really horse it off the ground quickly, I can over come the roll over, but it's pretty squirrly in the air. Almost like the gyro is messed up.

Hi Ridinspurs,
I would double check to make sure that your 8006’s main rotor shaft is perfectly square (straight up and down) with the main frame (side plates) and check to make sure that the landing skids are sitting exactly 90 degrees to the main rotor shaft and straight with the rest of the helicopter. I would also check these by looking at the helicopter head on.

Also when doing the takeoffs, I would try using a quick burst of power to clear the ground. The 8006 main blades make a lot of turbulence when close to the ground and attempting a gradual throttle up takeoff can greatly increase the risk of a possible tip-over do to heavy thrust deflecting up from the ground.

About the squirrelly condition, I would first try flying the helicopter on a really calm day and see if the helicopter has any tendency to want to keep rotating while its flying. If it does it could be that the gyro trim just needs fine tuned with the trim button while flying. When the helicopter is functioning properly and the gyro is well adjusted (and the air is calm), the 8006 helicopter will be easy to fly and very stable flying. (Note; I would also double check to make sure PCB board is firmly tightened to plastic mount and that the plastic mount is tight on frame. If the PCB board is loose on the plastic mount, the gyro will never be able to control the helicopter properly and the helicopter will have a mind of its own and be jerky to control). Also as the air becomes less calm or breezier though, the 8006 can become a little more harder to control when flying. I should mention too that the function of the gyro on the 8006 (and 8005) helicopter is just to keep the helicopter pointed straight (it limits any unwanted rotating) and generally most handling problems are caused by other problem like improper balance, something loose, something bent or missing, etc.

I don’t know if this helps at all, but if this doesn’t help, we might need a little more detailed info about how your helicopter is acting and sounding when its flying.

Ray

Originally Posted by helicrapter

I had posted before that I burnt the tail motor and the board on my 8006. I found a company selling a BnF 8006 new style for 65 dollars free shipping. Came with everything except the remote.

Flew really nice the first 2 flights 10 min+

I took the moded tail blade off my other 8006 and put it on the new one.. this thing really moves when there is no wind.. maybe 10+ mph

anyway starting with the 3rd flight im getting cut outs now about every 30 seconds or minute. One was so bad that dropped and broke 2 blades, the canopy, main shaft and landing gear.

Fixed all that and resoldered the antenna thinking that it was a bad joint from the factory. Still getting the cut outs like crazy after 30 seconds the thing just drops. My other 8006 before the board blew never had a single cut out with over 15 full flights.


Should I order a new board for this new QS? what do you think?

Hi helicrapter,
Although I doubt this is the problem, but I would first try bypassing the ON/OFF switch for a flight or two so as to eliminate it as a possible cause of the problem. An easy way to temporary eliminate the ON/OFF switch is to make a jumper wire to put where the ON/OFF power wire plugs onto the PCB board. I made a jumper wire by cutting an old connector end from an old 8006 tail motor wire. I cut the connector from the tail motor wire and left about an inch of wire on the connector and then I just soldered the two wire ends together. I then wrapped the soldered area with some electrical tape. Once the jumper wire is made, just plug the jumper wire onto the PCB board socket pins in place of the ON/OFF switch wire.
Keep in mind though whenever using a jumper wire, you will only be able to shut the power off on the helicopter by unplugging the Li-Po battery. Also, since the switch probably isn’t the problem, I would test it by flying the helicopter low to the ground so the helicopter doesn’t fall so far if the power does cut out again.

But since your new helicopter is using a new PCB board, I am real suspicious the PCB is probably the problem. I would also check to make sure battery power wires are soldered well onto the PCB board and that the battery connections are fitting snuggly. I would also try the old battery in the new helicopter to rule out any internal problem on the new Li-Po battery.
I’m just guessing, but since the PCB boards so far have a poor record for consistent flying and can‘t handle much overload (I have my 3rd board coming), your new 8006 PCB board does sound like the most likely culprit.

Ray

Originally Posted by Pilot Ray

Hi helicrapter,
Although I doubt this is the problem, but I would first try bypassing the ON/OFF switch for a flight or two so as to eliminate it as a possible cause of the problem. An easy way to temporary eliminate the ON/OFF switch is to make a jumper wire to put where the ON/OFF power wire plugs onto the PCB board. I made a jumper wire by cutting an old connector end from an old 8006 tail motor wire. I cut the connector from the tail motor wire and left about an inch of wire on the connector and then I just soldered the two wire ends together. I then wrapped the soldered area with some electrical tape. Once the jumper wire is made, just plug the jumper wire onto the PCB board socket pins in place of the ON/OFF switch wire.
Keep in mind though whenever using a jumper wire, you will only be able to shut the power off on the helicopter by unplugging the Li-Po battery. Also, since the switch probably isn’t the problem, I would test it by flying the helicopter low to the ground so the helicopter doesn’t fall so far if the power does cut out again.

But since your new helicopter is using a new PCB board, I am real suspicious the PCB is probably the problem. I would also check to make sure battery power wires are soldered well onto the PCB board and that the battery connections are fitting snuggly. I would also try the old battery in the new helicopter to rule out any internal problem on the new Li-Po battery.
I’m just guessing, but since the PCB boards so far have a poor record for consistent flying and can‘t handle much overload (I have my 3rd board coming), your new 8006 PCB board does sound like the most likely culprit.

Ray

thanks for the tips ray. I ordered a new board in mean time. I ordered a 27mhz but see that there are 35mhz now available along with the corresponding transmitter. I have 4 batteries and tried all 3. I did drop the TX the other day but it doesn't sound like anything is rattling and it seems to be working fine.. ill try that next after these steps you listed, and the new board if that fails.

Originally Posted by Pilot Ray

Hi helicrapter,
Although I doubt this is the problem, but I would first try bypassing the ON/OFF switch for a flight or two so as to eliminate it as a possible cause of the problem. An easy way to temporary eliminate the ON/OFF switch is to make a jumper wire to put where the ON/OFF power wire plugs onto the PCB board. I made a jumper wire by cutting an old connector end from an old 8006 tail motor wire. I cut the connector from the tail motor wire and left about an inch of wire on the connector and then I just soldered the two wire ends together. I then wrapped the soldered area with some electrical tape. Once the jumper wire is made, just plug the jumper wire onto the PCB board socket pins in place of the ON/OFF switch wire.
Keep in mind though whenever using a jumper wire, you will only be able to shut the power off on the helicopter by unplugging the Li-Po battery. Also, since the switch probably isn’t the problem, I would test it by flying the helicopter low to the ground so the helicopter doesn’t fall so far if the power does cut out again.

But since your new helicopter is using a new PCB board, I am real suspicious the PCB is probably the problem. I would also check to make sure battery power wires are soldered well onto the PCB board and that the battery connections are fitting snuggly. I would also try the old battery in the new helicopter to rule out any internal problem on the new Li-Po battery.
I’m just guessing, but since the PCB boards so far have a poor record for consistent flying and can‘t handle much overload (I have my 3rd board coming), your new 8006 PCB board does sound like the most likely culprit.

Ray

Ok ive done some testing in my workshop and it seems to be cutting out when I use right rudder.. Left rudder works fine as I kept the stick to the left for a full 45 seconds with no issues. After about 15 seconds of right rudder it cuts off. The power for the Heli remains on after it cuts out and will not operate until I rebind my TX. Would this indicate an issue with the TX or the receiver? I already spend 18 dollars on a new receiver.. could have gotten it cheaper from banggood but I didn't want to wait on the china shipping

Hi helicrapter,
Very interesting, your Qs8006 helicopter cuts out the exact same way my Qs8006 cutout during the bench testing I did last summer. When I did the bench testing on my helicopter, I too noticed that anytime my 8006 transmitter’s right turn joystick was moved towards the right to about the half way point or more, the transmitter would sometimes sporadically and totally cut the power off on the helicopter. So whenever this random cutout would occur I would try returning the joystick back to center position to see if the power would come back on, and sometimes the helicopter power would come back on its own, but often the power wouldn‘t come back on again until the transmitter was turned off and then back on to re-bind it to the PCB board.
So up until now, I was thinking that maybe my transmitter had a slight manufacturing defect in its right turn joystick control, but now after reading that your new 8006 transmitter is working the same way, it now looks like there must be a major design flaw issue on at least some of the 8006 radio systems.

I want to mention too that with my original 8006 PCB board the cutouts started occurring on the 4th flight and would happen about 3 or 4 times on each flight there after. Then with my 2nd 8006 PCB board the cutouts started on the 7th flight, but the cutouts occurred a bit less often at about 1 or 2 times a flight, but even still one cutout is one time too many since they occasionally caused the helicopter to crash unnecessarily. Currently I have a 3rd board on the way and I’m not holding my breath that it will solve the cutout problem.

In my opinion, the Qs8006 helicopters desperately needs a more reliable transmitter with a longer control range of about 400 feet for a better flying distance safety margin, and the 8006 also needs a more heavier built more durable PCB board. I personally think if G.T. Model would use a 2.4ghz transmitter like what my J-Power Sky Surfer airplane uses (its comparable in price and has no cutouts, not to mention it has an incredible 3000 foot control range), the 8006 cutouts would no doubt be totally eliminated. I think using brushless motors on the 8006 would really up the performance of the 8006 helicopter and would help to extend the battery flight times. The 8006 urgently needs a more power tail motor than what it currently has so the helicopter can more easily fly against breezes and with better speed.

I do know one thing though, there is nothing that can quickly ruin the fun of flying helicopter and for losing interest in flying a helicopter than a helicopter that often shuts down its power while flying that can result in unnecessary crashes.

But I'm still holding out hope that G.T Model will make some serious good update changes on the Qs8006 soon.

Ray

Hi guys
I've similiar Rx
One day I put the battery connetor reversed and
BAMMMM!!!!
the RX got smokey. After thar, I can't use it anymore. each time I turn it on, the led indicator just blinking faster and finally stopped,
but no respond no matter I moved the TX stick
Any idea how to repair this ?