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Old Mar 27, 2015, 07:57 AM
gpw
“There’s no place like Foam”
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United States, LA, New Orleans
Joined Jul 2002
24,278 Posts
Being Old School , we mostly just bolt the prop direct to the motor (after Carefully balancing each prop) Then we fly carefully , and land more carefully .. We break one every now and then , but not often ... Sometimes , what we attempt to save doesn’t work out so well .
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Old Mar 27, 2015, 09:49 AM
Defies Logic & Common Sense
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Philippines, NCR, Makati City
Joined Jun 2012
1,226 Posts
Small props tend to take more abuse than the big ones as what I know. Especialy those with thick roots.

I have a 6x5now a 5.5x5 apc prop been bashing since 2008 till now still have it flying.

have destroyed more 9" & 10" props more than 7" & 8" props
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Old Mar 27, 2015, 02:17 PM
Registered User
United States, NJ, Sparta Township
Joined Mar 2007
1,024 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by uberjay View Post
yeah, the crochet hook.... might be worth trying, but all the guys at indoor combat would likely run with that one for a while ;-)

I usually wind up using my fingers when I'm too lazy to get a hex driver for a lever. I've found if I can get it up and over the opposite side of the prop hub I can hold the prop in place with my other hand, take a breather, and then re-grab the band and take it the rest of the way.

Hmmm... maybe if I painted the crochet hook black it'd look more like an RC tool ;-).

Oh.... one other tip for people on the prop saver world. Immediately after getting the band secured take the prop (near the hub) and give it a little twist away from the screw that the band was put on last. This allows you to get even tension in the band on both sides of the prop hub.

I've noticed at higher rpm's sometimes the prop pulls away just enough to slip / get wobbly and it is almost like it's unbalanced. If the tension on both sides is equal there's nowhere for it to slip.

Cheers,
J
Great thought the black color . Use flat black with red so it looks like blood than push it into a real heart as a stand, like a pin cushion stand, Than pull it out of the stand and push it into your hand and quickly poke it into your eye and make a growling sound. Than it will look really manly to them. That will get respect from them. COOL! Ron
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Old Mar 27, 2015, 02:27 PM
Kimbers Keeper.
Joined Nov 2014
638 Posts
Here you go. Just your speed! Real babe getter!!

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Old Mar 27, 2015, 02:28 PM
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Canada, ON, London
Joined May 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darticus View Post
Great thought the black color . Use flat black with red so it looks like blood than push it into a real heart as a stand, like a pin cushion stand, Than pull it out of the stand and push it into your hand and quickly poke it into your eye and make a growling sound. Than it will look really manly to them. That will get respect from them. COOL! Ron
Arrrgh, arrrgh, arrrgh,..... glad someone gets it!
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Old Mar 27, 2015, 02:36 PM
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Canada, ON, London
Joined May 2011
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Originally Posted by BHOFM View Post
Here you go. Just your speed! Real babe getter!!

ROTFL... how big is that babe?
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Old Mar 27, 2015, 03:22 PM
Kimbers Keeper.
Joined Nov 2014
638 Posts
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Originally Posted by uberjay View Post
ROTFL... how big is that babe?
Just regular size I guess, I was shopping for color at the time....
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Old Mar 27, 2015, 06:00 PM
Registered User
United States, NJ, Sparta Township
Joined Mar 2007
1,024 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by GorillaBob View Post
This is what we use:

http://www.gorillabobsrc.com/catalog...922d00836f8b88

Best part is that they will not rot like the o-rings will. Here in Arizona in the summer, o-rings only last a week or so. These last for months.
I know you are in very dry conditions and it hurts the O rings or dries them out. Does this do any damage to the EPP foam? Will it dry it out and cause problems to our planes? Thanks Ron
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Old Yesterday, 10:28 PM
"long stretch of water..."
coongoola's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Stuarts Point
Joined Jun 2014
395 Posts
Hi there,

I've been considering building my first nutball and I've followed this thread for about 6 months now, great reading here.

So. I just acquired a sheet of white 5mm foam board, 900mm x 600mm from a friend who has an art shop. He uses it for mounting photos and pictures.

My inventory that I have readily available is as follows...

Foam Board as above
Original Bixler 2 stock motor, not used.
20A HK ESC from the original Bixler.
HXT servos (5g)
Plenty of CF push rods
Lots of CF flat strips 5 & 3mm
4 channel mini Rx
4 channel Spektrum Tx (from the sim)

Do I have enough to get me started and will the Ex Bixler stock motor be too powerful ? If it's not too powerful what size NB would it suit ?

Cheers

Pat in Oz
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Old Yesterday, 10:49 PM
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Ashford. Kent. England
Joined Feb 2005
7,220 Posts
Be aware that good quality art board is very heavy, its not like the dollar shop boards that are widely used in the states..
You may have to remove the paper and recover as needed with tape...
I had to do this in the UK as our graphic boards are much too heavy.. and this was a pain, the quality boards have thick paper well stuck down, it took prolonged soaking to get the paper off..
with the paper left on the weight was 3 times as heavy as only the bare foam, even fully covering with tape the weight was still a lot less than with just the paper..
Luckily we have uncovered depron readily available now...

the bixler motors are fairly powerful 150W+ so you will need a bigger nutball ... 26-32"
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Old Today, 04:13 AM
Flying one day at a time....
pardshaw's Avatar
United Kingdom, Pardshaw
Joined Oct 2012
1,493 Posts
Hi Pat

I'm thinking 5g servos are maybe not quite up to the job on a 26" - 32" Nutball.

If you could get a couple of 9gm servos that would be better.




When choosing diameter for a Nutball, I generally find a handy starting method is to divide the Nutball components into two weight categories: -



1. The power-train (motor + prop + ESC + battery) weight in ounces

and

2. The airframe (wing disc + servos + push rods + horns + L/G (if used)) weight in ounces


The weight of the power-train is fixed (unless you drop a battery size). So you can then play with varying the diameter of the airframe until you get the thrust-to-weight ratio you want and the wing-loading (in Ounces Per Square Foot - OPSF) you want.


On your size of Nutball (26" - 32") try and get a thrust-to-weight ratio in excess of 1.1 and preferably around 1.5 (or more!) whilst also keeping the OPSF to around 4.0 (or less!).

You'll discover its all about compromise......but if there is a secret it is to build as light as possible. Like Dave says, paper-backed foam board is pretty heavy with the paper on.


However, rest assured - the Nutball design is very forgiving and it will fly!

Dave
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Old Today, 05:14 AM
"long stretch of water..."
coongoola's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Stuarts Point
Joined Jun 2014
395 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by pardshaw View Post
Hi Pat

You'll discover its all about compromise......but if there is a secret it is to build as light as possible. Like Dave says, paper-backed foam board is pretty heavy with the paper on.


However, rest assured - the Nutball design is very forgiving and it will fly!

Dave
Thanks for the advice Dave & Dave, very much appreciated.

Pat in Oz
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Old Today, 07:30 AM
Kimbers Keeper.
Joined Nov 2014
638 Posts
I fly mine with paper on, very happy with the performance. Going to weight it right now and
report back.
:::

Back>>>

9.6oz AUW with a 2s 1300 and 3/4oz ballast in the nose. The CoG had to be well forward of the
recommended for it to fly as I wanted. Flight times are, I have never flown a battery out in it,
flights over ten minutes don't do much to the battery. Still around eight volts.
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Last edited by BHOFM; Today at 07:36 AM.
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