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Old Dec 24, 2011, 03:58 PM
Oly crap.. Deese ease not gud!
hpapilot's Avatar
USA, NC, Kernersville
Joined Nov 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iloveflying View Post
aha...ok what motor are you using rj? and about the shaft of the motor how can you fit it with the vpp system? cause i think it will be diffrent
I have been using a Hacker A10-9L with a custom shaft. There's not really an easy way to do it, sorry!

Quote:
Originally Posted by 3171scott View Post
RJ, I have a a10 9L, would this work beter than the A20 34s for my VPP set up? What do you have to do to make the mamo fit the 9L? I also have access to a A10 13L, but i know that this motor does not like 2cell, its an ape on 3cell but trying to stay away from having to run a 3cell. If i have to i will have to pick up a few 250 mah's to try to keep the weight down.

Also where do you order your CF tube in the small diameter?
Nah, the A20-34S is definitely the way to go for VPP. It has more power and requires no custom machining to work. 3S 250's have done well with the A20-34S in the past without much weight penalty, so that's an option. 2S 325's with 9" blades always worked fine for me for that setup.

I order my smaller carbon from CST mostly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 3171scott View Post
Any plans on a milled EPP MX2 in the future?? MY fingers are not up tp depron yet. LOL...
I don't personally have any plans for milled EPP... I recommend building a milled depron one with some extra reinforcement! You can make them very crash-tolerant if you want to.

RJ
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Old Dec 24, 2011, 04:44 PM
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motorhead's Avatar
Kansas, USA
Joined Sep 1999
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Unfortunately milling EPP is not an easy task for production. EPP is VERY hard on bits. Even carbide. Doing a one off with a dremel is not too bad but real messy.
Mike
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Old Dec 24, 2011, 09:55 PM
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United States, OH, Youngstown
Joined Apr 2011
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Thanks for all the help! Should have it alltogether next week. Will keep everyone posted.
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Old Dec 27, 2011, 10:47 AM
Team Futaba
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Rochester New York
Joined Oct 2004
947 Posts
Hey guys,

Here is a short video of me playing around with my "tvvpp" mx2 I love this thing

Devin McGrath VPP messing around (2 min 5 sec)


Also a picture of our mx2s from JR indoor (mine blue and Rj's orange)

Devin McGrath
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Old Dec 27, 2011, 12:11 PM
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United States, OH, Youngstown
Joined Apr 2011
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Devin, I see that you guys have moved one of the tail servos to the rear. Im guessing that is due to the extra servo for the TV. Did you move both the rudder and elevator servos to the rear?

I think my first attempt is only going to be VPP until i get the programing and feel down for the VPP, i might wait to do the TV until later. Trying to not overload myself. LOL...
RJ suggested if i go with TV that i could just couple it with the rudder servo and eliminate an extra servo.
Do you think if i go with one servo for the TV and rudder would i need to move the elevator servo to the rear? I have traced my old MX2 and scratch building the airframe and at this point I have not cut any servo locations yet.
So any input would be great!
Thanks for all the help!
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Old Dec 27, 2011, 01:36 PM
Team Futaba
Devin McGRath's Avatar
Rochester New York
Joined Oct 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3171scott View Post
Devin, I see that you guys have moved one of the tail servos to the rear...........
On one hand the TV does add some complexity to the airplane it does add allot more control in reverse and makes it more predictable.

You can get away without moving the servos into the tail And still get it to balance correctly We just choose to go that way. And yes both servos are in the tail

Depending on what you are trying to hit for a weight it will definitely help to couple it to the rudder servo. Reason being when building an airplane with this much extra stuff weight adds up quickly, well more than usual


Devin McGrath
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Old Dec 27, 2011, 08:53 PM
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United States, OH, Youngstown
Joined Apr 2011
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Thanks Devin. Can you post some numbers on your pitch set up's? I thinh i read that you and RJ are setting up the zero pitch at about one third up on the stick, not at true center stick. Is this true, or are you setting it up just like a heli?
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Old Dec 27, 2011, 09:38 PM
Oly crap.. Deese ease not gud!
hpapilot's Avatar
USA, NC, Kernersville
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That's definitely true.
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Old Dec 28, 2011, 10:06 AM
Team Futaba
Devin McGRath's Avatar
Rochester New York
Joined Oct 2004
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That is correct
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Old Dec 28, 2011, 11:05 AM
Inspired by the wings of an An
Andycap's Avatar
Leeds
Joined Mar 2003
1,937 Posts
Hi RJ

Do you refer the extended Precision in the Positive pitch range then?
I appreciate that accuracy in negative pitch is not so important as to keep the model stable its very much all about pitch pumping anyway
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Old Dec 28, 2011, 11:26 AM
Fast and getting faster!
Albany County, New York, United States
Joined Jul 2003
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where are you guys getting the axi 2203/40????? Also with this motor what is the better setup, 2 cells, and or the 8 or 9 inch blades?
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Old Dec 28, 2011, 11:35 AM
Oly crap.. Deese ease not gud!
hpapilot's Avatar
USA, NC, Kernersville
Joined Nov 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andycap View Post
Hi RJ

Do you refer the extended Precision in the Positive pitch range then?
I appreciate that accuracy in negative pitch is not so important as to keep the model stable its very much all about pitch pumping anyway
Yep. I like to be able to fly the airplane in idle-up mode without it feeling much different than in normal mode.
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Old Dec 28, 2011, 01:25 PM
Team Futaba
Devin McGRath's Avatar
Rochester New York
Joined Oct 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andycap View Post
Hi RJ

Do you refer the extended Precision in the Positive pitch range then?
I appreciate that accuracy in negative pitch is not so important as to keep the model stable its very much all about pitch pumping anyway
The extended precision is more important in positive pitch than in negative pitch. Mine is set up the same way and I have plenty of control in reverse for even the slow decending nose down stuff. The major advantage is the positive pitch feels more natural in vpp mode
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Old Dec 28, 2011, 10:01 PM
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Brasil
Joined Dec 2011
8 Posts
Hi guys, I'm a new member here, althought I've been a "ghost" user for a while, just reading and trying to learn with you. The CC10 starting problem has been around for a long time and people say that if you shorten the motor wires you should get it to go away. So I'd like to know if it is possible to make the Hacker A10-9L work properly without such a tweak. For those who succesfully got it (just in case), what are your config parameters? Thanks a lot for your help. Best regards.
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Old Dec 28, 2011, 10:25 PM
Oly crap.. Deese ease not gud!
hpapilot's Avatar
USA, NC, Kernersville
Joined Nov 2006
1,160 Posts
I have never had many problems with that setup honestly. I know a lot of people seem to. I don't know if motor wire length matters, but try the older firmware versions on the controller. I hear they work better. Do you have Castle Link?
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