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Old Jul 03, 2012, 05:23 PM
Bryan D
United States, NM, Albuquerque
Joined Jun 2012
85 Posts
Idea
Sig Four Star Flaps Maybe

Deciding on weather i should put flaps on the four star..? Has anyone done it? Thanks
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Old Jul 03, 2012, 07:45 PM
Build more, websurf less
FlyingW's Avatar
Long Valley, NJ, USA
Joined Dec 2001
1,651 Posts
Yes. Go for it. Use two positions: Half, and full flaps. She really slows down with full flaps - you have to carry a little power and you get one chance to flare - great fun.

The one in the photo actually has a symmetrical wing of about the same size as the stock Four Star. The stock Four Star wing should be fine.
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Last edited by FlyingW; Oct 19, 2012 at 10:47 AM.
Old Jul 03, 2012, 09:31 PM
Registered User
Joined Jan 2009
7,643 Posts
On the FourStar 20? No need. It's quite floaty as it is.
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Old Jul 03, 2012, 10:01 PM
KK4TYF /Baron Von Nick
Endlesslag's Avatar
USA, VA, Spotsylvania
Joined Jan 2011
3,855 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by rafe_b View Post
On the FourStar 20? No need. It's quite floaty as it is.
Well theres a 20..a 40..a 60... a 120...yeah
4 stars, four sizes.
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Old Jul 03, 2012, 10:54 PM
Bryan D
United States, NM, Albuquerque
Joined Jun 2012
85 Posts
lol i have the 20 size, i dont know yet.
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Old Jul 05, 2012, 12:36 PM
aka: A.Roger Wilfong
gnofliwr's Avatar
Novi, Michigan, United States
Joined Jan 2001
2,490 Posts
As has been noted, you really don't need them.

I modified a 4*40 by cutting the ailerons in half and using the inner for flaps and the outer for ailerons. Actually, in normal mode, both the flaps and ailerons worked together. When I flipped the "airbrake" switch down, it went into a crow configurations (flaps down 50%, ailerons up 30% and a touch of down elevator). In "airbrake" configuration, the aileron mixing was still in effect so that the aileron stick still deflected both the ailerons and flaps - they just had the offsets.

The flaps are not necessary. The crow did slow the plane down quickly and kept it from floating across the field in ground effect, but a better (and cheaper solution is to shorten the wings by lopping a bay off of each wing tip - you won't notice the loss in the air (except that the roll rate is a little higher), but landings don't require as much attention to energy management.

- Roger

P.S. I have a 4*380 (380 sqin). It is the same thing as a 4*20, but was build from 4*40 plans reduced to 80%. For several years I'd been suggesting to the Sig reps at the Toledo show that they should produce a 4*20. I gave up and visited Kinkos with my 4*40 plans. No sooner did I have it framed up than Sig announced the 4*20.

I contend it was my committing to cutting balsa that finally drove them to it - someone at Kinkos must have been a spy .
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Last edited by gnofliwr; Jul 05, 2012 at 12:41 PM.
Old Jul 05, 2012, 01:18 PM
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Dennis Sumner's Avatar
United States, MI, Canton
Joined Sep 2002
1,409 Posts
I have a 4*40 that is powered by a E-flite Power 46 and 4s5000 that has one bay off each panel and don't find the need for flaps. It is a great flyer. If you want to add flaps it is easy to do as others have said here....

Denny
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Old Jul 05, 2012, 04:13 PM
Visitor from Reality
United States, VA, Arlington
Joined Dec 1996
12,788 Posts
There's a lot of 'clipwing 4*40' owners around who love that variation. It handles slow flight regimes as well as the 60" stick wing, but plays real nice with the aerobatic lobby. How it's kid sister does as a clipwing is much less well documented, however.

Found the next best 'cure' to floatin' down the field was a high quality ESC that would allow me to just crack the throttle open so the prop turned at less than 'idle'. If your set-up allows this accuracy, your prop ceases to produce thrust and actually creates drag. Get a 15" prop doing that and floating ceases to be an issue.

Still, if they do it for you, flaps can be fun. Even if you have to lead the pack with your particular kit.

From the full-sized world, simplistically. A little flap increases lift on take off. With some aircraft, it helps a little - with some, they just can't get off the ground without them. We seldom have that issue with our models

For approach and landing, unless you are really talking a STOL aircraft, flaps enable a steeper approach path without any speed increase. That works out, for plain flaps, at around 20 degrees for take off and 60 degrees for landing. A set-up that delivers exactly the same flap settings for each switch setting is essential too. Without that, you'll not be sure what will happen at a critical time of flight.

D
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Old Jul 05, 2012, 06:48 PM
Registered User
Wallingford, Ct
Joined Sep 2001
1,860 Posts
And avoid cross wind landings !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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