Originally Posted by Mac50L

Question why the power supply is surplus. Possibly because it was giving trouble? What year was it made?

Next question - what do the capacitors look like? All of them including small ones around the switching transistors. Are their tops bulged? Are any of them showing signs of leaking (brown stain)?

If it dates back to 2000-2005 especially I'd be suspicious of all the capacitors.

If it was an older power supply and not an ATX supply (maybe from an old 386 computer) then it would probably be perfect. That's what I'm using to run this monitor though I did originally modify it to run a charger.

I appreciate your help.
I got the PSU from a computer guy in the neighborhood. He tells me that it worked just fine. He was taking the computer apart for parts.

I have not opened up the PSU. I just snipped the Power on and the Ground wire.

It seems like it needs something more. If I connect the green & black and then plug it in, the fan turns on for a fraction of a second an stops. If I plug it in and then touch the wires I can play with it and get it going. Once it is going, if I connect the wires well (with a wire nut) it will work non stop. But it is not the connection, because if I then unplug the PSU, let the fan stop, and then plug it in again, it just gives me the little turn, and stops.

I may try to find another PSU and try it again.

Originally Posted by Shimmy

If I connect the green & black and then plug it in, the fan turns on for a fraction of a second an stops. If I plug it in and then touch the wires I can play with it and get it going. Once it is going, if I connect the wires well (with a wire nut) it will work non stop. But it is not the connection, because if I then unplug the PSU, let the fan stop, and then plug it in again, it just gives me the little turn, and stops.

Sounds odd as I used to just push a loop of wire into the long plug and then do the servicing necessary, then plug it in to test. Note from the picture where the locking bar in the middle of the plug is relative to the two pins to be looped are.

Details can also be found at -

http://www.wikihow.com/Convert-a-Com...b-Power-Supply

http://web2.murraystate.edu/andy.bat...owersupply.htm

This page shows the wire links needed to link the start-up pin on an ATX supply -

http://www.modelflying.co.uk/forums/...p?th=49129&p=2

Well, i took my fourth and last sky s out rhis weekend,but i was in for a surprise. Got to my flight station,reved her up for launch,gave her a toss, and WHAM,into the ground she went,did'nt try again after that, flew something else,but here is what i discovered.my first three was always, washers out, 22mah 3 cell in all the way to the nose end, but not for the fouth one.
Up untill now, i have never had to place the battery where it isAnybody else have their battery so far aft like in the pic.
See pic

Flying off Glider Point tonight. 15mph winds up there. I already have HK stabilzer, just need to install it.

Sky Surfer at Glider Point Chino Hills State Park (4 min 14 sec)

Does anyone know if you can take a spektrum dx7 thru TSA airport check-ins??

Originally Posted by minizoom

Flying off Glider Point tonight. 15mph winds up there. I already have HK stabilzer, just need to install it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zq63s...&feature=g-upl

whats that for?

Hi been following the thread for a while and I've got a question that going to cause abit of debate, but what is the most efficient setup for the bixler? Currently have a 1400kv motor with a 7 x 5.5 prop and not really that pleased with its efficiency and when I put a 3000 mah battery in cruise amps go from 8-9 on a 2200 to about 11-15 on a 3000 over time greatly reducing flight time. Thinking about maybe going with the 3 blade 6 x 4 or going out and getting the 2200 kv with an Apc 6 x 4 ... What do you guys think? Thanks in advance

Originally Posted by rcflyer1000

Hi been following the thread for a while and I've got a question that going to cause abit of debate, but what is the most efficient setup for the bixler? Currently have a 1400kv motor with a 7 x 5.5 prop and not really that pleased with its efficiency and when I put a 3000 mah battery in cruise amps go from 8-9 on a 2200 to about 11-15 on a 3000 over time greatly reducing flight time. Thinking about maybe going with the 3 blade 6 x 4 or going out and getting the 2200 kv with an Apc 6 x 4 ... What do you guys think? Thanks in advance

That is the answer.
AJ

Originally Posted by rcflyer1000

Hi been following the thread for a while and I've got a question that going to cause abit of debate, but what is the most efficient setup for the bixler? Currently have a 1400kv motor with a 7 x 5.5 prop and not really that pleased with its efficiency and when I put a 3000 mah battery in cruise amps go from 8-9 on a 2200 to about 11-15 on a 3000 over time greatly reducing flight time. Thinking about maybe going with the 3 blade 6 x 4 or going out and getting the 2200 kv with an Apc 6 x 4 ... What do you guys think? Thanks in advance

Ive tried a lot of different setups trying to keep the fun factor and also long flights, it depends how extreme you want to go with motors and props. I went with the screaming motors and 6" props but settled on big low KV motor and the biggest prop I could fit. 3 blade props give you really good thrust but are not efficient at all, Im running an 8" 3 blade at the min and I get about 15 mins less flight time compared to my 2 blade

(Im running a 3536 900kv 8x6 three blade prop on 4s)

Originally Posted by Grazer

Thanks Sculptor. I agree with all your comments about V2. Enjoy your plane.

In regards to your AR6115E Rx, reserve for use in a close-range slow flier, like a Pioneer Retro or similar. I wouldn't install in a Bixler or PZ Warbird etc.

Thanks for commenting on this Rx. Can you tell me what I should use as an Rx in the Bix V2? I as yet don't understand the difference in receivers. Hell I thought they were all good for 3,000 feet. Now I'm afraid to use these at all. Two, as I said are AR6115E's and I've put one in my new Bix V2 and the other in a Beachcraft Staggerwing. The AR 6210 W/satellite is now in a 63" Cessna 182.

I haven't flown any of these planes yet. Is there a 'guide to receivers' page like the things AJ put in the front of this thread?

" I'm a skeard"
DJ

Originally Posted by rcflyer1000

Hi been following the thread for a while and I've got a question that going to cause abit of debate, but what is the most efficient setup for the bixler? Currently have a 1400kv motor with a 7 x 5.5 prop and not really that pleased with its efficiency and when I put a 3000 mah battery in cruise amps go from 8-9 on a 2200 to about 11-15 on a 3000 over time greatly reducing flight time. Thinking about maybe going with the 3 blade 6 x 4 or going out and getting the 2200 kv with an Apc 6 x 4 ... What do you guys think? Thanks in advance

You can't go wrong with the 2200kv and APC 6 x 4 E prop. Just make sure your ESC is rated at least 20 - 25 amps.

Originally Posted by CPMBOY

whats that for?

HK stabilizer or orx 3 axis gyro. To get more stable video. Plane was getting tossed around like a micro up there.

To help prevent 'shadowing' can put my Rx (Spectrum AR6115e) on velcro on top the butt end of the battery?

DJ

Originally Posted by Sculptor

Thanks for commenting on this Rx. Can you tell me what I should use as an Rx in the Bix V2? I as yet don't understand the difference in receivers. Hell I thought they were all good for 3,000 feet. Now I'm afraid to use these at all. Two, as I said are AR6115E's and I've put one in my new Bix V2 and the other in a Beachcraft Staggerwing. The AR 6210 W/satellite is now in a 63" Cessna 182.

I haven't flown any of these planes yet. Is there a 'guide to receivers' page like the things AJ put in the front of this thread?

" I'm a skeard"
DJ

I dont know the range limit for the parkflyer recievers but for full range in a Spektrum you need a satellite. You can always do a range check and see what the limits are once its installed.

Originally Posted by Sculptor

Thanks for commenting on this Rx. Can you tell me what I should use as an Rx in the Bix V2? I as yet don't understand the difference in receivers. Hell I thought they were all good for 3,000 feet. Now I'm afraid to use these at all. Two, as I said are AR6115E's and I've put one in my new Bix V2 and the other in a Beachcraft Staggerwing. The AR 6210 W/satellite is now in a 63" Cessna 182.

I haven't flown any of these planes yet. Is there a 'guide to receivers' page like the things AJ put in the front of this thread?

" I'm a skeard"
DJ

The 2.4 ghz receivers that are designated as park fliers are usually good to 1000 foot range. They are intended for small parks and the type of aircraft that can be flown in small areas. The Bixler needs a full range receiver, with it you can fly so far out that you can no longer see the airplane and still have control (wont do you much good but you can't blame the receiver).

A a satellite receiver has nothing to do with range, it is intended to provide redundancy,diversity and resistance to shadowing.

I fly my motor glider (AXN Cloud Fly) with a $5. 99 Hobby King Orange 6 channel full range receiver (no satellite). The AXN gets way up and out there, I have never lost contact.