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Old Apr 19, 2010, 08:06 PM
Registered User
Canada, ON, Hamilton
Joined Oct 2005
2,758 Posts
motivation

RocketRob, thanks for the motivation.
I was about to ask for a few ideas for a paint scheme.
Iím leaning towards a red nose and tail, white wing with red leading edge and red or black checker board on the bottom of the wing.
No one seems to be using a brace on the stab, so maybe Iíll just use a light cable to tie it together. Looking at the built up cowls, it seems I wasted too much time making a mold for a FG unit.
Hereís the centre section of the wing finished and glassed.
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Old Apr 20, 2010, 11:04 PM
Chad H Fly`n Farmer
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Ancaster, Ontario Canada
Joined Nov 2007
275 Posts
You and your fibreglass.

Yah just can`t stop gooing all yur models with that heavy stuff.

On a vintage plane to boot. Thats sacrilegious.

It is almost like taking a 17th century Amati violin and varnishing it with Varathane!

Modeling blasphemy on the highest order!

May the gods of balsa dust and butrate dope vapour come down from the clouds like a lighning bolt and cleanse you of your sinful ways. Now repent, and take that high-tech funk and throw it away!

Chad.
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Old Apr 22, 2010, 07:03 PM
Registered User
Canada, ON, Hamilton
Joined Oct 2005
2,758 Posts
I need another shot of ďmotivationĒ.

Well Chad, if the model lasts a long time, I donít want it oil soaked with the dope and paint rubbing off. Yes, fuel proof dope will not last forever. The front end is going to get glassed. The lower cowl will be part of the fuselage bottom up front. If I need nose weight, guess whatÖ.more glass on the inside of the cowl bottom.
To fasten the wing on, I used a steel bolt, with a washer at the head, then ľ inch fuel tubing to gently tighten everything up. A piece of tubing on the bolt head fits onto the driver and wonít fall or slip off. To place the bolt, just insert the driver at 45 degrees through the opening and the bolt head slides first into a slightly beveled taper area then into the steel locking nut. The nut is shown on the back of the ply former. When finished there will be no rubber bands, large nylon bolts or big bolt holes in the wing.

I need a cockpit with an instrument panel which Iíll borrow from Vintage. The GW wanted an open cockpit, but he isnít getting one; maybe a removable canopy. Now I need another shot of ďmotivationĒ.
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Old May 25, 2010, 08:47 PM
Registered User
Canada, ON, Hamilton
Joined Oct 2005
2,758 Posts
Spring start to flying

Here's the guy that started this thread, our Grand Wizard (GW), Mr JM himself, getting ready for another season of flying.
I asked him if he wanted to do some painting for me...bad question.
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Old Nov 05, 2010, 05:18 AM
aeh
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Finland
Joined May 2007
91 Posts
Lancer 72

Hi

I have just ordered a set of plans + short kit from Bob Holman. I'm planning to reduce the dihedral and build it with ailerons. Electric or glow, dunno yet. Also, I'm thinking of an all flying stab as well. The stuff hasn't arrived yet though..... and I have another project to finish.

Cheers
A
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Old Apr 04, 2012, 03:49 PM
Scott R/C Time Pilot
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NorthBend/Coos Bay,Oregon USA
Joined Dec 2009
1,492 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnAV8R View Post
Well, I have the mustard bottle back, so time to start gluing.

Both the Klarich and Holman Lancer plans use a similar airfoil. The former is perhaps from an original plan, the latter is redrawn with CAD. The Holman wing uses top and bottom wing spars. Neither gives good detail on the wing taper at the tips, but a small picture suggests similar taper to both the top and bottom of the wing spar. Full taper on the bottom wing spar would flare the tips more gracefully upwards. Both plans show an inverted engine with a high thrust line. The Klarick plan includes a very small picture of the model with what appears to be an upright engine set on a lower thrust line (as is shown in Chadís Lancer). Using the 2 plan sets I have, the Klarich has a stab platform set at 1mm positive angle of attack, relative to the centre line, while the Holman is at zero. Is this intentional, or just stretched paper? I like to think that it is intentional, as the under cambered wing really causes a lot of lift when power is applied; the model starts to point its nose up.

Now, what looks best in finishing the model, clear plastic covering or silk and dope? Chadís model has the latter.

And do we really need that very long landing gear that gives clearance for a 20 inch prop?

Welcome to the 2012 OT Build Off

Scott
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Old Apr 05, 2012, 02:12 PM
Visitor from Reality
United States, VA, Arlington
Joined Dec 1996
12,788 Posts
You get in there and glass her up John. If the guys who designed these models had been able to buy finishes, radios and engines like we have now, do you think they'd have turned them down?

No way, they'd have been hurtling into the LHS to buy our stuff if it had suddenly appeared on their shelves

Nice job, it's a pleasant change from the high winged cabin layout too.

Regards

Dereck
Who is having a real urge to build a vintage model...
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Old Apr 07, 2012, 11:19 PM
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Canada, ON, Caledonia
Joined Aug 2007
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I know you hate to do so John.....just drop the Lancer off when your ready and I'll cover it for you.

Bill
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Old Apr 08, 2012, 11:15 PM
Registered User
Canada, ON, Hamilton
Joined Oct 2005
2,758 Posts
Lancer build moved to a new thread.

Thanks Scott.

Bill, I've got the frame covered and have a coat of dope on it.

This build has been moved to:

2012 Vintage & Old-Timer Build-Off- Lancer 72 from Klarich short kit-a continuation.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...9#post21275701

John
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Last edited by JohnAV8R; Apr 08, 2012 at 11:17 PM. Reason: added title
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Old May 07, 2012, 11:31 AM
FJS
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Joined Dec 2011
1 Posts
Hi everyone:
Just ordered the kit and plans from Bob Holman. Thinking about going 100% sheeting (with a paint finish) on this and also going electric. Anybody heard anything about motor/battery/propeller combinations for the Lancer?
Frank
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Old May 07, 2012, 11:45 AM
Old Timer
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CARMICHAEL, CALIFORNIA USA
Joined Apr 2001
3,921 Posts
Lancer

A Lancer 45/48 would be a better one to go all sheet covered as it already is except for the wing. Here is mine scaled up. Green one is the original size.
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