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Old Nov 20, 2010, 12:10 PM
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Would the Guy who managed to get the fuse SPLIT,
PLEASE take a Picture so we can see what is in there !
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Old Nov 20, 2010, 02:48 PM
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Dos Hermanas (Sevilla)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by birdofplay View Post
Would the Guy who managed to get the fuse SPLIT,
PLEASE take a Picture so we can see what is in there !
Hi;
That's me!, i can take some pictures, but...... you have to wait until next week, i will try to make them monday or tuesday, as soon as i made them, i will post them here.
I will do this mod: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=3727 and also put the fuse servos at the back and wing servos next to the flaps.


Regards.
Patrick
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Old Nov 20, 2010, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Helitime View Post
Hey Robbie
Many people are reporting shipping damage. Mine arrived with damage to the vert. stab, the foam is like soft putty at the top back. Should be easy to fix with a c/f rod or even a round toothpick or two.


Finally got the rudder servo installed in the vert. stab, now to get the wire back through the fuse. Also, I cut the hinge of the old actuater and have more deflection now (40 deg. each way. Ailerons are at about 40 deg up and 25 deg down without trimming foam at the hinge (yet).

Kerry
I had the same deal with my vertical stabilizer. I hadn't noticed it when I posted last. Ditto on the possible fixes. No biggie. It took me 20 minutes to fix the wing root damage. Now I'm looking at removing their silly firewall and modifying that area so that I can use my E-Flight power 15 motor that propelled my 2.53M ASW 28 fiberglass/balsa built-up wing like a rocket ship.

Robbie
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Old Nov 20, 2010, 07:00 PM
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Pickering Ontario CANADA
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I managed to split(cut) the fuse just at the nose. This made it easier to install a Turnigy 2836 1000kv (about 400 watts), I have one in an old high wing that weighs about 950g and it will go vertical on a 12x8 prop :-) should be plenty for this plane even at the higher weight.

I'm with Bird on those open fuse pics. I was drilling down into the tail section from in the vert. stab. to run the rudder servo wire. I think I'm into open space but can't get the wire to go through.
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Old Nov 21, 2010, 10:32 AM
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I wound up splitting the fuselage just as you said you did Helitime. It was no problem. They really glued in that plastic firewall well on the right hand side though. It took some convincing to get it out. I replicated the shape of it with some 3/16" hobbyist plywood I had on hand and then drilled the necessary mounting holes for an E-Flite power 15 motor from my big ASW 28. This thing is going to be a rocket ship! I can see having to use 20 - 30 seconds of motor power max to get to thermaling altitude. I'm also using the E-Flite 40A pro ESC from the ASW 28. I plan to carry over the receiver as well and to use spoilerons as this helps in a big way getting these big birds down where we want them.

Robbie
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Old Nov 21, 2010, 01:44 PM
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Hey Robbie, your making me do more work. I didn't get the firewall right out, same problem with the right side glue, I didn't want to break it. Now I will have to have another go as I really don't trust the plastic mount.
Agreed on the spoilerons, I have them set up on my DG1000 from HK. The thing is a rocket and doesn't like to go slow (tip stalls nasty) and needs a bunch of altitude to recover. The spoilerons allow me to come in higher and hotter and sill put it down where I want. I have installed air brakes in the Fox as I had them laying around (probably not needed but should be fun to play with short landings).
Kerry
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Old Nov 21, 2010, 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by birdofplay View Post
What we NEED is a good method of Quick ON/OFF of the H-Stab !
That way we can use the Shipping Box for Transport and Protection.

C U L8r

Bob
Hey Bird: any progress ? Love the idea (hate hanger rash). I have been looking at this for awhile and the best I have so far is a clevis on the control rod and unscrew the mount. (not very quick though )
Kerry
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Old Nov 21, 2010, 03:21 PM
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Re hanger rash:
That's why I put colored packing tape on "GOOD" foamys. Even the EPP, EPO types !


The real issue with the H-stab is hooking up the linkage.
With the Rudder bottom so close it leaves no room to "operate" ya know !
Maybe, just maybe if the bottom of the rudder were "relieved" a smidgen ...

Then that leaves the issue of alternative attachment.
The NOSE of the H-stab is already Keyed in place.
More screws out side the fuse are just more drag and just trading screws for screws.
Velcro - maybe but I'm not keen on that idea just yet as it's hard to get loose.
Some kind of SNAP mechanism would be kewel. But What ?
The bottom could be stabilized by a thin cross piece that is permanent.
Something to keep the H-stab Square and level.
A snap like the canopy has would probably be ok then.
Or , I remember seeing some "Velcro Like" strips that were "Beads on stalks" one side
and the a bed of "nails" on the other side. All harder plastic with peel tape attachment.
They popped together an held quite nicely.

Anyway the weather is so bad and miserable
that I've kinda given up on flying it much anymore this year. :-(
So it hard to keep interest, ya know

I suppose the URGENCY of this mod depends just how much your are going
to be flying this model.

The current method and screw work just fine.
It just the hassle factor.
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Old Nov 21, 2010, 05:56 PM
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Hi Robbie
Success, I got the mount right out and replaced it with ply and the mount bracket intended for the motor. I was able to add some down thrust with washers. (Bob or Pete reported needing down elevator under power) I now have 4 bolts and nylocks in ply instead of 2 little screws in plastic. You got yours out so I had to try>>>Thanks dude !!

As a side note to all: I pulled out the battery mount to split the fuse a little further. IT CAME OUT VERY EASILY. Only a little line of glue holding it down. This plane will probably not generate alot of force trying to toss the pack but I would grab the velcro strap and use it tp pull out the foam and stick it properly, it's fast and easy.
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Old Nov 21, 2010, 06:30 PM
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Bob: Thankyou Thankyou Thankyou. Sooo many good ideas in that last post. Got me thinking with a so many different ideas. I have figured at least one fast and easy way. Probably easier to look at a pic. than explain in detail. What you can't see is: I cut the head off the included mount bolt, ground off the threads on the top 1/2>3/4" cut a small slot in the top for screwing it in. Drill a small hole through the bolt right near the top for the retaining pin. These little pins where intended to hold plastic bodies on R/C cars :-)
This allows you to connect the "z" bend then weasle the stab.in under the deflected rudder and over the bolt top where it gets pinned. IT WORKS !
However, your idea of a smaller cross brace under the stab. sounds more secure. Perhaps a small pin attachment at each end of the brace instead of one in the middle.
Thanks again Bob.
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Old Nov 21, 2010, 07:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Helitime View Post
Hi Robbie
Success, I got the mount right out and replaced it with ply and the mount bracket intended for the motor. I was able to add some down thrust with washers. (Bob or Pete reported needing down elevator under power) I now have 4 bolts and nylocks in ply instead of 2 little screws in plastic. You got yours out so I had to try>>>Thanks dude !!

As a side note to all: I pulled out the battery mount to split the fuse a little further. IT CAME OUT VERY EASILY. Only a little line of glue holding it down. This plane will probably not generate alot of force trying to toss the pack but I would grab the velcro strap and use it tp pull out the foam and stick it properly, it's fast and easy.
Wow! Your firewall had a TON of glue! My original firewall only had some along the sides. Good job getting it out! The washers for some down thrust sound like a good idea. I was thinking that this could probably use at least a tad. This should be the end of the hard part with getting this bird airborne!

It also looks like you hogged out a little more room underneath for the ESC wires to pass. I did this as well as my ESC wires are bigger than the those on the stock ESC.

Robbie
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Old Nov 21, 2010, 07:05 PM
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I was hoping that SOMETHING would stick to the wall, if I threw enough stuff :-)

Look it there, you did good :-)

So you ran the original bolt UP a bit further to expose the
drilled and ground end - is that it ?
Then drilled out the original threaded plastic in the stab so the exposed bolt
could slide onto the stab and then get Pinned !

Doing as much as possible with the least amount of parts and work !!!

I like it !

Um maybe a large. thin. plastic, washer between the stab and Pin
would add a little stability ???

A little white packing tape over that servo and it will disappear too !

Bob
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Old Nov 21, 2010, 08:42 PM
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Almost Bob and your idea would work also. The pic. is just a drill bit stuck through to show the idea (I cheated) :-)
I screw the bolt down in from the top with a screwdriver slot cut in the top of the bolt. You grind the threads off the top of the bolt to slide through the stab instead of drilling it out. This way you can bolt it in per "stock methods" if the need arises.
Some detail: Needs to be tight! YES on the washer or a thin flat piece of aluminum.
Decide on the washer, pin the bolt and screw it in through the stab. from the top till tight then pull the pin and make sure you can still squeeze it down and repin it. THEN LOCK THE THREADS (C/A into the bolt hole from the bottom I'm thinking?) I have used this method to secure wings on a 6' span Cub (8>9 lbs) We might also conscider a short index pin, up (short)from the front bolt hole. Wanna finisih it up right? A short piece of thread on the retaining pin and a dot of epoxy on the stab. and ya neve luse yur pin. :-)
Not trying to be a smart A, I did it all before. :-)

Cheers
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Old Nov 21, 2010, 08:48 PM
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Sorry Bob Yup the servo will get a cover, once I get the wire up through the plane. Got the other end sorted out, right where the rudder servo rod was. :-)
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Old Nov 21, 2010, 09:01 PM
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SORRY, SORRY I SCREWED UP. Theres no threads below the stab. in the base. Need to sort this out. We are close. But I got part wrong. and the wife wants her computer.
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