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Old Feb 18, 2015, 07:16 PM
kurtataltos is offline
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Radian Newbie Question

Just received a Radian RTF. I have briefly viewed some videos on "making it better" but I have some observations:

- mold marks on the wings, round dimplets. Sand them off ??? Leading edge is rough as well...

- Control rods are really rough. Have Sullivan replacements on the way. I assume... you just push them through the original holes.

- Battery, the 1100ma "standard" shipped with the unit.... is it to be pushed as far back as practical? If so I will need to "adjust" the provided velcro strap.

- Didn't realize the battery charger was "cigarette plug" only, no AC. Kind of silly for charging batteries at home. "Adapter" ordered but this does seem like a product oversight. Or did I miss something?

- any other really basic things I should be considering before leaping off the cliff?

I plan to fly it almost as is, then update it after understanding how it flies,
Thanks !!!
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Old Feb 18, 2015, 07:50 PM
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I'm a club instructor and I teach them to fly on their Radians

Leave the mold marks alone unless they really bother you aesthetically
Smooth off the leading edge carefully and consistently .
Control surface pushrods are normally just fine , just be sure you reinforce the way they're attached to the fuselage and especially to the small mounting surface toward the rear of the fuse . They commonly break loose and will bow out and become worthless. A small amount of Epoxy works just fine .
Push the battery forward , not back. A little nose heavy is way better than tail heavy .
Cut the cigarette lighter plug off , go to Radio Shack ( if they 're still open ) and pick up some alligator clips and attach it to a car battery .
Find a local club and get an experienced person to help you .
They fly pretty well if they're set up right .
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Old Feb 18, 2015, 08:01 PM
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InJamNoOneCanHearYouScrea m
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1. Learn to fly with the "Stock Radian"... don't sand anything. I agree with"Jetmavens lead with the epoxy or some White Gorilla glue. Again agree with Jetmaven on battery placement.
2. Keep it simple...maybe get a CAM unit to shut the motor off. Stock batteries are fine to learn with. The CAM will fit under the speed brake hatch after you Dremel out a little foam [Its a little tight with a receiver in there].
3. Peel the stickers off and get a rattle can of Krylon [sprayed from at least two feet away to avoid eating the foam] and make some art of the airplane. Make sure you use some rubbing alcohol on the surfaces first to get the mold release off or the paint just flakes off...
4. When you are ready I would then recommend the "Paul Naton" Radian modifications. You can get the video off YouTube. The changes make it a completely different sailplane. New 11x7 propeller makes a huge difference. I added some rare earth magnets at the wing roots to keep the wings together. I fly kind of fast coming back from a few grand in altitude. If you need ballast Home Desperate sells steel rods that fit in the carbon fiber tube for the wings. Makes it a good pound heavier. For Mr. Naton's mods I only made my flaps about 8 inches long on each wing versus what he is using...pilots preference.

There is nothing better than beating up on a bunch of ALES guys that are flying Kevlar and carbon fiber high end platforms at contests. You may not win a lot but you may become a better pilot flying foam in the beginning. Note that $159 is easier to replace than $1000+ when you get greedy.

Enjoy your beer can cooler airplane as it is a hoot to fly.

Wally by Golly
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Last edited by wadasczi; Feb 18, 2015 at 08:13 PM. Reason: changes
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Old Feb 19, 2015, 01:55 PM
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jetmavin, wadasczi, thank you for the replies !! Will start with the simple stuff. I will wait until the new pushrods arrive. I disconnected both ends of the pushrods and was a bit shocked at how rough and inconsistent they were. LHS was out so I had to order them online.

Thanks again. If you have any other newbie radian wisdom, don't hold back !
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Old Feb 19, 2015, 04:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kurtataltos View Post
Just received a Radian RTF. I have briefly viewed some videos on "making it better" but I have some observations:

- mold marks on the wings, round dimplets. Sand them off ??? Leading edge is rough as well...

- Control rods are really rough. Have Sullivan replacements on the way. I assume... you just push them through the original holes.

- Battery, the 1100ma "standard" shipped with the unit.... is it to be pushed as far back as practical? If so I will need to "adjust" the provided velcro strap.

- Didn't realize the battery charger was "cigarette plug" only, no AC. Kind of silly for charging batteries at home. "Adapter" ordered but this does seem like a product oversight. Or did I miss something?

- any other really basic things I should be considering before leaping off the cliff?

I plan to fly it almost as is, then update it after understanding how it flies,
Thanks !!!
Been flying Radian for years to instruct new pilots, for fun and in ALES contests. I have two computer radios but I use the stock Spektrum DX5e that comes in the RTF to fly the Radian. Works just fine.

1) Leave the mold marks alone unless they bother you.

2) If leading edge is rough, wrap it with clear packing tape. Smooths the edge and it helps reduce damage from hitting sticks and such.

3) Never had problem with rough control rods. Nothing wrong with going to sullivans.

4) Standard battery has been a 1300 mah 15C green pack. Maybe they changed it. I push it all the way toward the rear. Then I tape a quarter on the tail. Skip the quarter till you have had some time on the glider but virtually every Radian I have tuned has gotten the quarter treatment.

5) Field charger is much more valuable than a home charger in my mind. Nice to have both if you don't mind them raising the price to include them.

I don't own any AC chargers. For home bench work I have a auto jumper pack hanging off the side of my workbench to power my 12V chargers. Some people pick up power supplies.

I do 90% of my charging at the field. One goes in the Radian and one goes on the charger. When it is time, I switch. I have 3 packs but typically I get about an hour out of a pack so two would be enough.

I have not done any of the modifications you read about and mine flies fine. If you are ultra tuning for competition you might consider it but I think the glider is fine as it is for most people.

The stock battery, the 1300 15C packs are just barely adequate. I would suggest you not buy more of them. Pick up 20C or higher packs. They hold up better and give you a little better climb.

As I fly mine in ALES contests I changed the prop to a 10X8 and use a 1300 or 1000 mah pack rated for 30 to 40 C.

Hope that helps.
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Old Feb 19, 2015, 08:16 PM
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Thank you for the replies. Now I have a "dumb and dumber" question. Having worked in the computer industry for 45 years....having LED's typically means you want to give status of "something". Computer manufacturers NEVER use a red LED unless it's for an error indication (at least for competent computer manufacturers). All well and good. AR600... has Spektrum considered telling the end user what the LED's mean? Ok, flashing red appears to be loss of signal or power or....something. The orange LED is ....for what? Power connected? The manual is typical of what happens when someone real close to the product writes the manual and assumes...the reader has already used the product. And you never put in LED's for any status without clearly stating what they mean. Almost better to have no LED's. Ok, rant over. Red LED, loss of signal or intermittent power or ????? Orange LED, shall I assume it means power? Usually that is done with a green LED but maybe I am just a bit warped. Green good, red bad. Seems simple. Maybe I'm the simple one....
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Old Feb 20, 2015, 07:00 AM
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Not having the instructions in front of me, the typical Spektrum light sequence is:

Blinking - not bound to the transmitter

Solid - Bound to the transmitter

Different blink - lost power. This will occur on my set-up if I unplug the plane but do not turn the radio off. I believe this is the mark of a restart so it could be a brownout or a total loss of power.

The manual with the RTF only has the basic information. As I recall they don't include the manual for the AR600 receiver. You can find it at the link below.


The manual for the AR600 receiver can be found here:
http://www.spektrumrc.com/ProdInfo/F...600-Manual.pdf
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Old Feb 20, 2015, 09:10 AM
rdwoebke is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kurtataltos View Post
Usually that is done with a green LED but maybe I am just a bit warped. Green good, red bad. Seems simple. Maybe I'm the simple one....
I think green LEDs on RC stuff is a bit rare because it doesn't show up super well outdoors.

Regarding your question, you said you hava n AR600. You can find the manual for any Spektrum product by googling something like "Horizon Hobby [product name] manual". http://www.spektrumrc.com/ProdInfo/F...600-Manual.pdf

The red LED is a hold indicator. For your purposes you shouldn't see it on very often.

The orange led in general use after everything powers up and everything is connected and talking should be solid and stay solid.

Ryan
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Old Feb 20, 2015, 12:04 PM
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Watch the YouTube video by Paul Naton on making the Radian better.

Parkzone RADIAN Modification Clinic.mp4 (31 min 53 sec)
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