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Old Aug 18, 2014, 01:47 PM
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Joined Aug 2014
6 Posts
Thanks i will start posting a few progress pictures soon.

Decided to make the nose cone removable with the scale side windows made from lexan as well. I would like to be able to mount a camera in there looking out of the nose.
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Old Aug 18, 2014, 03:28 PM
stegl
Kelowna , BC
Joined Nov 2008
2,450 Posts
Yes, wondered about a camera also with the clear nosepiece but with the shape there may be picture distortion .

Hi Cody...... Regarding low motor battery , that should not be an issue if using descent ESC's . If programmed correctly and if flown correctly you will notice a lowering of speed/power so the trick
Is to use the remaining power at a lower throttle setting to extend the glide path if you want to call it that to get back to the field. Thing with IC engines is when they quit , they quit ! AND one will quit before the other that is when problems really start and quickly ! Granted the sound of a pair of IC engines is nice but not when one shuts down before the other.
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Last edited by stegl; Aug 18, 2014 at 03:42 PM.
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Old Aug 19, 2014, 03:08 AM
teamwork, do it my way!
Dubai, UAE
Joined Jun 2007
700 Posts
From a camera perspective, I would rather open a small hole in the plastic and have the camera poke out through that. My nose is painted but it is on a hinge as that is where I load my batteries :-)

I normally do 5 minute flights on a single 6S 5000Mah pack, and usually come down with around 60-65% battery left. I would never take it past 50% so I reckon I have at least another minute of flight before it becomes a problem. Even then, the LVC would kick in and hopefully get me home.

In all seriousness, I don't need long flight time out of this plane. A good takeoff, a few low passes at low and high speeds, a few banking turns and MAYBE a roll is about all I ask of her. Scale flying and keeping it within reasonable vision and height is all accomplished in 5 minutes. Followed by a nice landing at full flaps and she is done. I even use up a bit of power taxiing her to and from her parking....I like the look of her in ground action as well as flight, so do all the others at the field.

For 10-15 minute flights, I take the 30cc MXSR and throw her around a bit. Mossie don't need that :-)
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Old Aug 19, 2014, 10:19 PM
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Joined Aug 2014
6 Posts
I agree the convenience and reliability of the electric setup is hard to beat. This build for me is all about the sound and technical challenge. Two saito petrol engines w/CDI will be a fun challenge.

With any luck it will haul ass with a couple 13x8 3 bladers. Luckily i am an engine mechanic, so i will have those fg-14's singing real pretty before i ever risk my airframe to engine failure.

Also i noticed there was a little slop in the wing join area, so i wen ahead and fiber glassed them together. I did not assemble that part, but i wish i would have because someone did a lackluster job..
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Old Aug 19, 2014, 10:22 PM
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Here is a pic of a little progress..
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Old Aug 20, 2014, 12:05 AM
teamwork, do it my way!
Dubai, UAE
Joined Jun 2007
700 Posts
Yeah, the wing joints are not a fantastic fit at all. I made sure I epoxied the life out of them. I still have some gaps and have on occasion, poured more thick epoxy in there. Don't want that coming apart.

What sort of revs will you be getting out of the Saito's? And what sort/size prop is recommended? I had a difficult time to match the motors and props for my setup. But given the parameters I had to work with, I have got a pretty efficient setup on mine.

Parameters included:
Had to be 3 blade
Had to get reasonable flight time on ONE battery pack
Had to minimize amp draw

The other factor that played a part was that you are limited to a 13" prop. Some people have even mentioned that they have been limited to 12", but I assume they have had their motors a little further back than mine, and fuse tapers going forward.
I have a rats pube clearance between props and fuse.
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Old Aug 20, 2014, 09:19 AM
stegl
Kelowna , BC
Joined Nov 2008
2,450 Posts
Cody , I think maybe whomever assembled the wing outer panels may not have put epoxy to the outer part of the aluminum tubes as the originals were quite loose on mine. I had some thicker walked aluminum pipe that I substituted pls made them a little longer..... Full length by about 1.5 inches longer.
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Old Aug 20, 2014, 08:11 PM
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Joined Aug 2014
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I sure hope the wing holds haha. It was glued between the two halves, and feels like maybe it was a wooden rod instead of the aluminum. So maybe i have an older school version.. Either way, the fiberglass with thinned epoxy worked great to make it hard as a door.

I would be happy to get about 8000 rpm with a MS 13x8 on there. If that is not enough, i plan to chop down two 16x10 props and balance them.

The great trick to balancing saito's i have found is just to tinker with the low end until pickup is the same. I will put both of these on a hammerhead test stand with props/spinners and dial them in there first (as well as break in on 20:1 AV gas and klotz)

I also have to extend the cowls for my spinners to match up because of the longer crankshaft, which will also help defeat the tail heavyness of this airplane that i believe has caused alot of crashes for other people. Much rather have it waaaay nose heavy than even a touch tail heavy.

I keep all my 3D stuff tail heavy, but warbirds turn into warturds real fast if even slightly tail heavy.
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Old Aug 20, 2014, 11:08 PM
stegl
Kelowna , BC
Joined Nov 2008
2,450 Posts
I think all the wing tubes were thin aluminum. Don't like the horiz. stab aluminum tube thought and will be using carbon fibre I have on hand. The issues with some of the MA 3 blade props are the blade width being not wide enough so the idea of longer (wider) props cut down is a good idea; especially with lower rpms in the 8000 rpm range..... Fine if turning 11 or 12,000 range.

No such thing as tail heavy airplane... Just the operator balancing it wrong .....haha.

To try and get mine to balance with as little dead weight as I can , I put the ESC 's in the inner leading edge , moved the motors further foreword by 3/8 of an inch using balsa spacer rings in front of cowls and batteries in the nose. Also moved the rudder and elevator servos about 4 inches foreward from designed spot. Carbon fibre pushrod for elevator and pull pull rudder. Thay say that for every oz. saved in the tail makes up to 6 oz of lead up front.
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Last edited by stegl; Aug 26, 2014 at 09:10 AM.
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Old Aug 21, 2014, 12:14 AM
teamwork, do it my way!
Dubai, UAE
Joined Jun 2007
700 Posts
Cody, check out post #377 on this thread, for some idea of what your props would look like as 16x10x3 cut down to 13"

:-)
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Old Aug 29, 2014, 10:03 AM
stegl
Kelowna , BC
Joined Nov 2008
2,450 Posts
Have had to put my Mossie on the back burner last 2 weeks or so as have been so busy with visitors and some main gear mount in my H9 Twin Otter I fly on floats. After 2 years of flying had to rebuild the main gear mounts due to weak design. Thus is the 2nd TO fuse I have had to modify. Have one on wheels and one on floats. Others have also had similar problems.
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