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Old Oct 05, 2012, 01:45 AM
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V120D05CS08 - Really fun 3D Flights - LOOPS and inverted (8 min 25 sec)
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Old Oct 07, 2012, 08:20 PM
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I had a crash today split my main hear hub while using the copper sheer pin. It had been splitting slowing on one side. But it split right in half during my crash. The copper, instead of sheering, wrapped it's self around the main shaft INSIDE the plastic hub, since it split in to spots it had enough room to wrap around the shaft and copper wire. The main gear did not break free so the teeth were flattened. I had to cut the center hub to remove the sheer pin and replace the gear. This was my first and only ruined gear since using the copper sheer pin.
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Old Oct 08, 2012, 03:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk View Post
I had a crash today split my main hear hub while using the copper sheer pin. It had been splitting slowing on one side. But it split right in half during my crash. The copper, instead of sheering, wrapped it's self around the main shaft INSIDE the plastic hub, since it split in to spots it had enough room to wrap around the shaft and copper wire. The main gear did not break free so the teeth were flattened. I had to cut the center hub to remove the sheer pin and replace the gear. This was my first and only ruined gear since using the copper sheer pin.
Integrity,
I had the same issue using any shear pin that was smaller than the hole in the mast and main gear. To much play will allow the pin to nail over while being sheared and that will damage the main gear each time until the main gear fails. A larger diameter copper shear pin that fits the hole will shear clean when needed and not damage the main gear. I have been using 18 gage copper wire that I spin in a Dremel between two flat diamond files until it's the proper diameter and just fits the mast hole with no play. Remove the copper wire from the Dremel and cut it to a length that will allow some of the pin to extend out of the main gear hole on both sides and push it in with your needle nose pliers, no need to bend either end over like you have done because it won't slide out now that it's the proper diameter.
Sinse I started making the pins this way I have never split a main gear.

Viking
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Old Oct 08, 2012, 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by A VIKING View Post
Integrity,
I had the same issue using any shear pin that was smaller than the hole in the mast and main gear. To much play will allow the pin to nail over while being sheared and that will damage the main gear each time until the main gear fails. A larger diameter copper shear pin that fits the hole will shear clean when needed and not damage the main gear. I have been using 18 gage copper wire that I spin in a Dremel between two flat diamond files until it's the proper diameter and just fits the mast hole with no play. Remove the copper wire from the Dremel and cut it to a length that will allow some of the pin to extend out of the main gear hole on both sides and push it in with your needle nose pliers, no need to bend either end over like you have done because it won't slide out now that it's the proper diameter.
Sinse I started making the pins this way I have never split a main gear.

Viking
That sounds like way too much of a pain. I'd think I'd rather just replace the gear? That sounds too time consuming and too much checking for size. I replace the sheer pin on these heli every day. I need something that is just going to fit. Reinforcing the gear hub would be easier. That only takes about 5 minutes and i never have to do it again. What your saying, i'd have to go through that whole process every day. Sometimes 2 and 3 times a day? It seems like you would have to do a lot of checking to make sure the diameter is small enough to fit too. So. grind, check, grind, check, ooops went to far! Seems very frustrating to me. The 0.032 aluminum stock was a better fit, but sheers WAY too easy under the load of these motors. I didn't see any 0.032 copper but they had brass. I might try that. Honestly though if someone offered me the right price on my D05, at this point i'd probably sell it. I'm tired of fighting the motor bog and lack of output on both v120s. It does good, Great even as far as learning goes. But there is only so much it is capable of. Anymore all of my crashes are because the battery couldn't keep up with either the wind or constant 3D or combination of the two. So i don't think i'll be looking for any more sheerpins. I just need to get into a precision professional machine, preferably bigger than a 250.
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Old Oct 09, 2012, 05:40 AM
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Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk View Post
That sounds like way too much of a pain. I'd think I'd rather just replace the gear? That sounds too time consuming and too much checking for size. I replace the sheer pin on these heli every day. I need something that is just going to fit. Reinforcing the gear hub would be easier. That only takes about 5 minutes and i never have to do it again. What your saying, i'd have to go through that whole process every day. Sometimes 2 and 3 times a day? It seems like you would have to do a lot of checking to make sure the diameter is small enough to fit too. So. grind, check, grind, check, ooops went to far! Seems very frustrating to me. The 0.032 aluminum stock was a better fit, but sheers WAY too easy under the load of these motors. I didn't see any 0.032 copper but they had brass. I might try that. Honestly though if someone offered me the right price on my D05, at this point i'd probably sell it. I'm tired of fighting the motor bog and lack of output on both v120s. It does good, Great even as far as learning goes. But there is only so much it is capable of. Anymore all of my crashes are because the battery couldn't keep up with either the wind or constant 3D or combination of the two. So i don't think i'll be looking for any more sheerpins. I just need to get into a precision professional machine, preferably bigger than a 250.
Not a pain at all!
It takes only 30 seconds to cut and mill a piece of 18 gage copper wire down to the propper size to fit the mast and that includes checking the fit a couple times during the process. I can make two or three at a time from the same short piece chucked in the Dremel.
I can crash and shear the pin, walk in my house, open my M120 up, push out the sheared pin, mill a new one, install it, close the M120 and be back out side flying in 10 minutes.
It's a simple fast process, just try it. After making a couple you will learn how much pressure to apply with the files and the amount of time spining in the Dremel at medium low speed nessesary to do the job and you can get it right on the first try in even less time.

A Dremel and two small flat diamond files is all you need, working small helicopters I know you have these in you tool box.
Cut and straighten a 1 inch piece of copper wire, chuck it in the Dremel, spin it up, with the two diamond files held loosely between your thumb and index finger place the files over the spinning copper wire, pinch the files lightly togeather and slid them back and forth accross the spinning wire, check your milling progress with a spare or old bent mast (I know you have one of those). Once the diameter is correct, remove the copper wire from the Dremel, cut the wire to length, dress up the cut ends with your diamond file to round the ends for ease of installation and you done.

With Bob's slipper clutch and the propper diameter copper shear pin installed in the main gear, you have the best protection available for you drive train. With my M120 and the way I have the main and "a" gear set up I don't even need the slipper clutch...life is good.

I will say the hardest part of running a copper shear pin is removing the center part of the pin from the mast after it shears, being copper it will smear slightly during the shearing process and that smeared end of the pin locks it in the mast. Sometimes it just falls out and your chances are better for this happening if you don't have a loose pin when you installed it, make it fit the hole as close as you can. To remove the "locked in" piece of pin from the mast I simply push on the pin by squeezing down on one end of the pin with my needle nose pliers working it back and forth in the mast until it falls out. This is the only thing that will take any time to do, and at that I am only talking a couple minutes.

With everything you have done I can't believe you would say this looks to hard or difficult....I don't believe it.

Viking
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Old Oct 09, 2012, 01:08 PM
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United States, FL, Palm Coast
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Originally Posted by A VIKING View Post


Not a pain at all!
It takes only 30 seconds to cut and mill a piece of 18 gage copper wire down to the propper size to fit the mast and that includes checking the fit a couple times during the process. I can make two or three at a time from the same short piece chucked in the Dremel.
I can crash and shear the pin, walk in my house, open my M120 up, push out the sheared pin, mill a new one, install it, close the M120 and be back out side flying in 10 minutes.
It's a simple fast process, just try it. After making a couple you will learn how much pressure to apply with the files and the amount of time spining in the Dremel at medium low speed nessesary to do the job and you can get it right on the first try in even less time.

A Dremel and two small flat diamond files is all you need, working small helicopters I know you have these in you tool box.
Cut and straighten a 1 inch piece of copper wire, chuck it in the Dremel, spin it up, with the two diamond files held loosely between your thumb and index finger place the files over the spinning copper wire, pinch the files lightly togeather and slid them back and forth accross the spinning wire, check your milling progress with a spare or old bent mast (I know you have one of those). Once the diameter is correct, remove the copper wire from the Dremel, cut the wire to length, dress up the cut ends with your diamond file to round the ends for ease of installation and you done.

With Bob's slipper clutch and the propper diameter copper shear pin installed in the main gear, you have the best protection available for you drive train. With my M120 and the way I have the main and "a" gear set up I don't even need the slipper clutch...life is good.

I will say the hardest part of running a copper shear pin is removing the center part of the pin from the mast after it shears, being copper it will smear slightly during the shearing process and that smeared end of the pin locks it in the mast. Sometimes it just falls out and your chances are better for this happening if you don't have a loose pin when you installed it, make it fit the hole as close as you can. To remove the "locked in" piece of pin from the mast I simply push on the pin by squeezing down on one end of the pin with my needle nose pliers working it back and forth in the mast until it falls out. This is the only thing that will take any time to do, and at that I am only talking a couple minutes.

With everything you have done I can't believe you would say this looks to hard or difficult....I don't believe it.

Viking
Well now that you described it a little more in detail it sounds a little less involved than i thought. It's not that bad i guess. I just would prefer to have a length of it prepared. I suppose you can make a few at a time or whatever.

BTW, when the pin is sheered and you can not poke it though. I use a VERY tiny drill bit in my dremel. These are probably 0.2mm or something like that. I drill into the pin slightly and then pull out using the bit. I've only had to do it once in the past, seemed to work well. Since the copper is soft the drill should bite in pretty good. But usually i can just tap them out with a 0.9mm hex driver or something like that.
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Old Oct 09, 2012, 11:54 PM
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I also go through a lot of .32mm copper wire for sheer pins. I can change one out in just a couple minutes and I've saved a ton of gears in the process.
I had a good one today. The motor rubbed the insulation off the pitch servo wire. Once it started to short out I had these wild bucks and dives right before a nasty crash. Bummer.

I got some inverted flights today too. I could get into a nice inverted hover but had problems flipping back over and changing back to positive pitch. I almost have it down, just need some more practice and I've never spent any time on a sim.
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 01:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Travis MCH View Post
I also go through a lot of .32mm copper wire for sheer pins. I can change one out in just a couple minutes and I've saved a ton of gears in the process.
I had a good one today. The motor rubbed the insulation off the pitch servo wire. Once it started to short out I had these wild bucks and dives right before a nasty crash. Bummer.

I got some inverted flights today too. I could get into a nice inverted hover but had problems flipping back over and changing back to positive pitch. I almost have it down, just need some more practice and I've never spent any time on a sim.
Keep it up, transitions can be hard. But once you learn to hold a inverted hover in your best orientation. Keep practicing holding that orientation. You'll slowly feel more comfortable and understand your options better, and more smoothly for transition back each time. Repetition is key, of course that is where a sim could be helpful. Not that i am condoning such things. But i heard you can get a patch cord for phoenix on eBay for about $15 and acquire a copy of the sim some how. Thats a hell of a lot cheaper than what i paid.
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 09:56 PM
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I'm starting to think I live in Florida now with the rain showers every afternoon. It puts a damper on the flying.
I got all my birds back together again and ready to take them out for another beating.
The better I fly the more new stuff I tend to try and still end up crashing
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 01:49 AM
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I'm starting to think I live in Florida now with the rain showers every afternoon. It puts a damper on the flying.
I got all my birds back together again and ready to take them out for another beating.
The better I fly the more new stuff I tend to try and still end up crashing
I still crash a lot too. But i'm constantly pushing the limits. I don't ever really just try not to crash. Most of the time, I'm trying to see how far i can go before i do crash.

Well, it's not all your fault. As i'm getting better now i'm really starting to see the things that Walkera Gyros don't do well. So things like piros and reverse flight are kind of sloppy on the wk gyros. But can be done. I'm just saying. Better gyros would help a lot. So it's not all our fault we keep crashing either!
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 02:58 AM
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Really trying to hammer down the inverted circuits. I'm getting better but i still tend to fly too far away and loose orientation in the evening sky. So i crashed! LOL

V120D05CS08 - inverted flight & 3d with crash (0 min 0 sec)
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 10:54 PM
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So I suspect there is something wrong with the RX on my V120D05s. For a while now it's been doing this wild pitch buck in fast forward flight. I've tried every adjustmenet and part tweak under the sun and nothing seems to fix it. I finally took off the RX2622 today but don't have a spare. I do have a spare 6 axis and as much as I don't care for the flight charecteristics I installed the 6 axis RX. It's really wierd to me how the 3 axis will auto level the swash plate when binds up. The 6 axis will not. You have to mechanically level the swash plate in order to have a stable hover with no drift. If you read posts on the V120D02s thread there are guys complaining about sideways drift and forward or backward drift. With the 6 axis you have to mechanically adjust the ball links to get the swash perfectly level. Then your good to go.
I did some test hovers in the driveway with limited light but tomorrow I'll take this D05 back out for some better flying. Hopefully the pitch buck is gone. If that's the case I'll order another 3 axis Rx2622. If the problems still remains it's got to be something else. I have changed the pitch servo already and all other functions and parts seem to be working good.
Test flying will tell it all.
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 10:58 PM
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Oh, and today I finally pulled off a nice loop into a sustained inverted hover , flipped back over forward and no crash. Yeah....finally.
I did this on my V120D02s with a TA915 motor, carbon fiber rotor blades and oh yeah, a green canopy. I'm pretty sure it was the green canopy that made it all work out. 3 axis Baby!

It was a happy day today!
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 01:05 AM
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So I suspect there is something wrong with the RX on my V120D05s. For a while now it's been doing this wild pitch buck in fast forward flight. I've tried every adjustmenet and part tweak under the sun and nothing seems to fix it. I finally took off the RX2622 today but don't have a spare. I do have a spare 6 axis and as much as I don't care for the flight charecteristics I installed the 6 axis RX. It's really wierd to me how the 3 axis will auto level the swash plate when binds up. The 6 axis will not. You have to mechanically level the swash plate in order to have a stable hover with no drift. If you read posts on the V120D02s thread there are guys complaining about sideways drift and forward or backward drift. With the 6 axis you have to mechanically adjust the ball links to get the swash perfectly level. Then your good to go.
I did some test hovers in the driveway with limited light but tomorrow I'll take this D05 back out for some better flying. Hopefully the pitch buck is gone. If that's the case I'll order another 3 axis Rx2622. If the problems still remains it's got to be something else. I have changed the pitch servo already and all other functions and parts seem to be working good.
Test flying will tell it all.
I suspect you already checked the double stick tape inside the RX jacket and that the wires were reseated and plugged in well? Otherwise good luck! Glad your having fun flying! I recently did this to my D05 and am waiting for yet another new Airframe.

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Old Oct 17, 2012, 08:47 PM
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Ah bummer about the broken frame!
That's one part I've yet to break.....knock on wood.
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