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Old Feb 27, 2015, 06:18 AM
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Foam surface protection

Purpose of this thread is to discuss techniques..products..etc concerning surface hardening.. protection of foam model surfaces...to prevent surface dings and dents...enhance durability of model without adding excessive weight penalty....Thx.
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Old Feb 27, 2015, 06:21 AM
EDF Jet Jam 2015, May 28-31st
Robert Belluomini's Avatar
United States, KY, Crestview Hills
Joined Dec 2000
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Deluxe products has a number of items that are easy to use.

https://www.deluxematerials.co.uk/en/19-hobby
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Old Feb 27, 2015, 11:30 AM
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Thx Robert will look into it....
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Old Feb 27, 2015, 11:52 AM
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http://www.wowplanes.com/product_inf...roducts_id=130

This looks interesting

www.industrialpolymers.com/styrospray.html

So just an update , since I've been considering this product for a while , I went ahead and placed an order from industrial polymers for the quart size $33 and it will ship ups ground from Houston Tx. They are sending out samples of it on foam and wood .
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Old Feb 27, 2015, 07:17 PM
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Wuts up 420? Would love to see pics of what you have there. I bought the Freezing Flanker which is an awesome plane..its made of EPs foam which is somewhat delicate...would like a clear coat type of surface treatment to provide surface protection at the least weight of course.will look into your link thx.
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Old Feb 28, 2015, 03:35 AM
Big gov never Works
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Skunk Water, Rhode Island
Joined Jul 2002
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Mod-Podge (matt finish)puzzle sealer is the best stuff I have ever used. It is an aliphatic type resin. Gets very hard. I thin it with water up to 50% to attach silk-span, tissue. Full strength, I use it for laminating wood to wood, to foam, between planking strips. Sands well (at least the matt finish does) much better than wood glues, Elmers, Tite-bond, etc.

Modeling suppliers have been repackaging products for decades. Pactra repackaged automotive acrylic lacquer and sold it under Aero-Gloss and Racing Finish. Epoxies are the same way. And so are alcohol/water based products. And the mark-up is huge. You pay for packaging. You can almost find the same or equal product in other industries that are higher volume users and therefore much cheaper.

I'm sure Mod-Poge has an industrial origin. But, 4bux for the small jar is not bad. And watered down makes double the amount. Wal-Mart, Michaels, etc.

Heres my last foamy covering. PH3 F-16. Silk-Span and domestic tissue with 50% thinned Mod-Poge. Sands between coats(4-6 coats), and the surface is very hard. Nothing beats glass and epoxy resin for durability. But even glass will puncture. Nothing is puncture proof. Just resistant. And the more it is puncture proof, the heavier it is.

Fuzz
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Old Feb 28, 2015, 05:46 AM
EDF Jet Jam 2015, May 28-31st
Robert Belluomini's Avatar
United States, KY, Crestview Hills
Joined Dec 2000
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Great tip Fuzz. Where are you buying Silk Span and tissue from these days?
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Old Feb 28, 2015, 06:07 AM
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Guatemala, Guate
Joined Jul 2007
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I recently read here a builder using news paper, and from some english builders kraft paper. All atached with white glue or polycrilic..

Not sure if using news paper or kraft paper ends more heavy than glassing, but for sure is a cheaper way of finishing with good results.

Long time ago when 11 years old used tissue and dope. Concurr with St. Martin tissue and modpodge is probably the lightest finish. Recently did a a sctratch depron polaris and completly glassed. Had about a 5 oz penalty considering glassing and painting.

Thinks st Martin is the way to go for next depron build to have the best finish, durability, and not the weight penalty.
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Old Feb 28, 2015, 06:47 AM
Big gov never Works
St. Martin's Avatar
Skunk Water, Rhode Island
Joined Jul 2002
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Hi Bob, Juan

Bob, I have been going around to LHS buying them out of silk span. Last roll I got was for free. The guy owned the HS for 5 yrs and never sold a sheet. Tissue, both domestic and eastern(Jap), I have a collection acquired over the years. Tower was selling a sleeve of med silkspan for 25$. Thats 1.00 per sheet. I bought two partial sleeves for 25cents a sheet, last yr.

It's GOLD>

Using paper type products is like glass, Juan. The glass does not weigh much, but takes a certain amount of resin to fill. Same with paper. The thicker more absorbent the paper, the heavier it is.

Fuzz
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Old Feb 28, 2015, 02:57 PM
AKA Terry Till
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Alexandria, VA
Joined Apr 2002
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Steve, did you ever use the "Hard Coat" Mod Podge?
I coated a puzzle with it and it didn't seem to get as hard as aliphatic when dry.
May not have been fully cured though.

Just curious,

Terry
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Old Feb 28, 2015, 09:47 PM
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I just finished putting on multiple coats of minwax polycrylic , used a foam brush and let dry between coats . Really made it shiny and made the red color pop. I'll let dry overnight and see how rigid it made the foam.

So far I would recommend minwax , put on in thin coats .
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Old Feb 28, 2015, 09:52 PM
Big gov never Works
St. Martin's Avatar
Skunk Water, Rhode Island
Joined Jul 2002
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Hi Terry, This is why I like RCG. I never stop learning, about stuff. I was in Michaels today, and I should have picked up anothe bottle of Mod-Podge. Maybe they would have had this, and I could try it. I know Wal-Mart did not have it last time I bought the reg stuff.

Hard to believe that they have a version that gets even harder. But, here's my concern. What ever medium you are using for sealing/ surfacing, it is always best to use a product that is matt or flat. At the least satin. Just for the sandability. Gloss does not sand as well in any form. Wet sanding is usually required. Plus, flat or matt usually dries faster.

Thanx for bringing this to my attention , Terry. I'm going to check if it is avail in matt. (PAUSE).... Plaid is currently OOS. http://www.plaidonline.com/mod-podge...45/product.htm And it does not specify surface texture.

They have an outdoor formula. But, no texture indication. Lots of stuff I did not know about. Lots of experimenting is in order. Like thinning and spraying.

Fuzz
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Old Feb 28, 2015, 10:10 PM
AKA Terry Till
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I have tissue and scrap foam (depron and blue foam). I could always try it and see what happens. It doesn't dry that glossy, but I doubt it's a satin finish. Also, for the puzzle, I only used one non-diluted coat.
I will say that I originally bought it for tissue and knew you had used Mod Podge for that purpose.
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Last edited by ex-racr; Feb 28, 2015 at 11:13 PM. Reason: auto-correct error
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Old Mar 01, 2015, 01:15 AM
Big gov never Works
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Skunk Water, Rhode Island
Joined Jul 2002
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Try it thinned down in a tissue application, Terry. See if it sands/recoats/sands well. The original matt sands very well. I even use it full strength in a hypo glue gun, for laminations and side gluing balsa planking.

Fuzz
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Old Mar 01, 2015, 04:13 AM
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Dublin Ireland
Joined Aug 2005
883 Posts
I have just finished covering a Habu 2 in Glasscloth and Deluxe Material EZE KOTE
It goes on great and is easy to sand. You can apply a number of coats very quickly as it does dry in about 20 minutes to an hour.
What I have found is on foam in anyway you are still left with the foam look. I doesn't look like it has been covered with glasscloth. It didn't stick that well on some edges. there was a lot of effort applying many coats(about 6) and sanding in between.
I think next time I would use cloth and resin. Yes its messy but at least you know its only two coats.
Photos later.
cheers
Steve
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