Why not have spoilerons instead of flaperons? How wouldd that add wieght to what you have already done?

Hmmm... what we have here is failure to communicate... thanks to me because I seem to be confusing flaperons with spoilerons.

Yes, what I have called flaps/flaperons are actually spoilerons. Both ailerons go up and that's what I use.
Flaperons are very limited because the servos are offset. They certainly are of no real use.

Sorry for mixing apples and oranges. If there are any other noobs like me out here, I found a pretty good video that will clearly explain flaps, ailerons, spoilerons, flaperons, AoA, high alpha etc: http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...b4dqZWU#at=565

That changes things a bit. Hence, why we thought the idea was a bit daft. Guess we can ignore the last x number of pages.

Merry Christmas everyone!

Joel

Vad---Did you do the strengthening mods to the horizontal stab???...These really must be done to keep the horizontal stab from damage...

Seriously, I can bring her in low and slow, windy or not, and just plop her in at my feet...Yes, some snow would get into the duct even plopping her in---But that's to be expected...You really need to practice getting this plane nose high and slow...As far as obstacles I have houses, iron fences, trees, and a pond in my landing pattern yet I can still manage to fly the pattern within those confines and plop her down at my feet...With no mods to the plane..

Kevin

As of Sunday my horizontal stabilizer is made out of 1mm cf with the inside cut out and covered with tape. It has the same weight as the plastic reinforced one, the only problem are the elevators which I can't make light enough so they're still the original ones.

I'll probably stick to CF since the default ones are much too fragile. My only problem is the hinging tape (duct tape actually) that doesn't hold right so I ordered both a CA hinging sheet and hinging tape (3M blenderm), but if you know a better brand please tell me.

Originally Posted by vadimpelau

As of Sunday my horizontal stabilizer is made out of 1mm cf with the inside cut out and covered with tape. It has the same weight as the plastic reinforced one, the only problem are the elevators which I can't make light enough so they're still the original ones.

I'll probably stick to CF since the default ones are much too fragile. My only problem is the hinging tape (duct tape actually) that doesn't hold right so I ordered both a CA hinging sheet and hinging tape (3M blenderm), but if you know a better brand please tell me.

Old floppy disk material makes nice hinges...I don't know what size carbon fiber rod I used but I was able to actually slide it inside if the foam and into the stab...

Kevin

Is it ok to fly stock setup and batteries at temps between 40 and 30 degrees
Farenheight? I know it shortens the flight time, but by how much?

Originally Posted by Valkpilot

Is it ok to fly stock setup and batteries at temps between 40 and 30 degrees
Farenheight? I know it shortens the flight time, but by how much?

There is no simple number, as there are a few variables involved. You'll have to fly some short flights & do a bit of experimenting. Whatever you do, don't charge your packs to 4.2V/cell & then let them cool down to 40 F or lower, as they will be severely overcharged at that temp - which causes immediate & irreversible cell damage. Many modern chargers have a cold-wx charge setting just for that purpose. Always keep your packs nice & warm until you use them. A higher throttle-setting will often provide longer flights, as higher current means higher internal cell temp.

The best thing to do when flying in the cold is to get rid of the factory pack & use a premium pack with low internal resistance, such as Hyperion. Eflite's UM cells & packs have always been very poor performers in the cold. Hyperion UM cells & packs have always been been the top performers in the cold.

Remember that in cold wx, a pack may hit LVC well-before the 80% discharge point, but the damage will still be the same as if you over-discharged it.

Joel

Originally Posted by Valkpilot

Is it ok to fly stock setup and batteries at temps between 40 and 30 degrees
Farenheight? I know it shortens the flight time, but by how much?

I just flew my mig today (18* F) on a 3S Hyperion 180. I flew 20sec less than my normal flight time to make sure the pack wasn't overstressed. It is exposed to the outside air so it cools quite quickly when its flying. Like Joel said keep the packs warm as much as possible. I keep mine in my pocket.

-Brian

I believe you have that backwards with the batts, Turbo. If you have a very cold batt. and charge it up to 4.2 volts, then take it off the charger, the voltage will keep climbing over the safe 4.2 volts and be damaged from over voltage if your lucky enough not to have it catch fire from the higher voltage. One of the FMA chargers has the temp device in it that would not charge to full voltage if it was below something around 40 degs F . Had that happen it the clubhouse when I went to charge some batts when the charger was on the cement floor. When I put the charger up on a picnic table where it was warmer, and it came up to temp, it charged the batts to the 4.2 volts.

Gord.

Originally Posted by turboparker

There is no simple number, as there are a few variables involved. You'll have to fly some short flights & do a bit of experimenting. Whatever you do, don't charge your packs to 4.2V/cell & then let them cool down to 40 F or lower, as they will be severely overcharged at that temp - which causes immediate & irreversible cell damage. Many modern chargers have a cold-wx charge setting just for that purpose. Always keep your packs nice & warm until you use them. A higher throttle-setting will often provide longer flights, as higher current means higher internal cell temp.

The best thing to do when flying in the cold is to get rid of the factory pack & use a premium pack with low internal resistance, such as Hyperion. Eflite's UM cells & packs have always been very poor performers in the cold. Hyperion UM cells & packs have always been been the top performers in the cold.

Remember that in cold wx, a pack may hit LVC well-before the 80% discharge point, but the damage will still be the same as if you over-discharged it.

Joel

So whic ones and were to get them?

I fly in 20-25 F for a few weeks now and keeping them in your pocket is good enough.
I also charged them at the field in those temps and had no issues.
Just don't let a battery charged inside, cool too much outside. Flying will both discharge and warm it up.

I fly cheapo turingy 300 mAh packs and with the 35C ones the motor starts making a humming sound with maximum throttle when nearing 80%. The 45C ones run fine.

Originally Posted by flypaper 2

I believe you have that backwards with the batts, Turbo. If you have a very cold batt. and charge it up to 4.2 volts, then take it off the charger, the voltage will keep climbing over the safe 4.2 volts and be damaged from over voltage if your lucky enough not to have it catch fire from the higher voltage. One of the FMA chargers has the temp device in it that would not charge to full voltage if it was below something around 40 degs F . Had that happen it the clubhouse when I went to charge some batts when the charger was on the cement floor. When I put the charger up on a picnic table where it was warmer, and it came up to temp, it charged the batts to the 4.2 volts.

Gord.

Gord,

Either scenario will result in an overcharged pack. Charging indoors to 4.2V/cell & allowing the core temp to fall to 40 F or lower will cause overcharge damage, as a full charge at that temp is more like 3.9V.

Originally Posted by Valkpilot

So whic ones and were to get them?

The TP 325 65c packs provide the highest thrust-to-weight of any pack that will fit the MiG. That's what I fly. You can get them many places online. HH sells them too. Do a web search & you'll find plenty of sources. If you want the lightest, highest-performance pack & don't mind paying a bit more for the lighter weight, order some lightweight TP 325s from RCBabbel.

Joel

hey guys,

Sparky from Park Flyer Plastics has knocked up some excellent nose caps and wing tips for us. he sent me some and I have been testing them for the last 2 weeks. I am happy to report they preform outstandingly and are now for sale. (note: I am not affiliated with Park Flyer, just helped him test them out.)

some features:
1) the nose cap is long enough to cover the leading edge of the canopy. no more tape or rubberbands to keep the canopy secure.

2) they are press fit on a new undamaged fuselage and if you have a banged up fuselage it is usually still press fit or a tiny bit of 3M Blenderm tape is all that is needed to secure it. really nice detail too, Sparky captured all the panel lines.

3) crash worthy, I have beaten mine up to no end and the nose cap only cracked after i had a direct hit into a building at 75% throttle. these things are tough and as long as you hit grass, they will not break (in my experience).

4) fuselage saving, I estimate these nose caps doubled (maybe tripled) the usable life of my fuselages. I have some installation tips, which I will add in another post, that really extends the life of your fuselage with little additional weight.

5) wing tips are not press fit, and less critical but they come as part of the deal and only require a dab of CA or silicone to secure. I have removed and reapplied them more than once, so I would say they are reusable/transferable. I cartwheeled my MIG and had no damage to the nose or wing tips. all i had to do was re-adjusted the servo linkage and i was back in the air. I was overjoyed.

6) light weight, the nose cap can be trimmed to end before the canopy (1.4g) or left full length to give you a couple mm of coverage over the leading edge of the canopy (1.7g). the wing tips are .8g each for an AUW of ~3.3 grams installed

7) cheap! $4.00 a set.

see my photos of fit and post crash damage.

Link here:
http://parkflyerplastics.com/cart/in...3f7ffff0214356

I hope these guards help you guys out.
I made up a batch of 15 and they are on the site and ready to go.