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Old Apr 23, 2009, 02:27 AM
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Finally the Petrel get's molded

I made this plug for a pod for the Petrel, a S.African design from a set of plan's out of Sailplane And Electric Modeler after building many other Glider's I decided to take my own advice, hope everything is OK as the tooling gell coat seem's to have peeled up the PVA, I should've stayed home and watched it or maybe I shouldn't have sprayed it with the pva at all as I waxed the daylight's, I'll find out when the L/H part of the mold get's pulled off the splitter board, time will tell.
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Old Apr 25, 2009, 01:37 AM
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Yeah, the first one didn't come out to my satisfaction so I did it over again today. The good wax job paid off though, I had no seperation problem's. And I expect no seperation problem's tomorrow and a better mold.
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Old May 09, 2009, 11:17 PM
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The mold is finished les wet sanding, buffing and waxing before the first part get's laid-up.
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Old May 09, 2009, 11:18 PM
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Very cool Dave!
i for one can't wait to see the finished parts.
ryan
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Old May 10, 2009, 11:02 AM
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Dave, what was your layup?

I see you used dowels to reinforce the mold.. You laid up cloth over them, sanded or cut the top square and bondo'd it?

I was thinking of using Adam (wyowindworks) method with the sand+epoxy mix for reinforcing my mold, but this looks easier...

My intended layup plan goes like this:
-Gel coat w/ pigment
-Veil cloth
-Glass mat (to avoid telegraphing)
-Wet it all out nicely and into the hotbox!
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Old May 10, 2009, 11:13 PM
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Alex, here is my lay-up schedule, 2 coat's of black polyester gel coat, tacky to the touch dry to the sweep before applying the 2nd gelcoat same with the 2nd coat before starting the actual lay-up with 6oz. fibre-glas. after the first layer is resined you want to slit it with a razor blade so it won't bridge between the plug and the splitter plate it also strenghten's the gel coat in that area. Then go ahead and lay down the next 2 layer's of glass. With polyester I like to wait a while before the next 3 layer's go down so thing's won't get too warm, that called exo-therm I believe. All in all I laiup about 9 layer's alternating warp direction each layer to help to keep the mold from warping, it also make's it stronger for a given number of layer's, it goes 90 degrees for 1 layer and then 45 degree's etc etc. Print threw is what you may call telegraphing, you only worry about that on the actual part, by letting the 2 gel coat's get tacky before starting your lay-up on the tool that usually doesn't happen. A major difference between laying up over paint, and thick tooling gel coat. Most of these suggestion's work whether your using polyester or epoxy.
What's the temperature where your doing your lay-up, I use the Arizona solar cure myself. I also clamp my tool together and put it in my car when it's out side, inside can get to be between 125F and maybe 150F that's more than enough for a post cure. Dave
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