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Old Nov 06, 2013, 05:24 AM
Boo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin2035 View Post
I have worked up a new technique of sheeting wings without a leading edge stock. David Oxilla should be up on this as well. I think this is weight and time saving idea that we should have been doing 10 years ago.
Hi Kevin,

Sorry to do another Lazarus on this old thread but have you any pix and/or description of this way of sheeting leading edges you can put up for us ? I have just now ordered a new Atlanta short kit from Don and am keen to learn my build options.

Thanks,

Boo
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Old Nov 06, 2013, 07:27 AM
Paul Pappas AMA 42520
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Joined Aug 2008
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Hey Boo,

Just a note on fully sheeting around the leading edge.

The cores will have to be cut with the leading edge profile for this to work, make sure you tell Don that.
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Old Nov 06, 2013, 06:19 PM
CPA 30, SPA 523
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United States, TX, Fort Worth
Joined Nov 2009
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What Paul is saying is not to cut the LE off the cores...leave about 1" in front of the LE.
Kevin, Vince, and others shared their technique here http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...1811352&page=5

I didn't want to go through the double gluing process or change my glue of choice so I chose to get it as close to touching on the LE and then sand off any imperfections and add an 1/8" cap strip to the LE.

Tim
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Old Nov 08, 2013, 02:32 PM
Boo
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Joined Dec 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pitstop000 View Post
Just a note on fully sheeting around the leading edge.

The cores will have to be cut with the leading edge profile for this to work, make sure you tell Don that.
Thanks for the heads up, I let Don know and he's making my wings to suit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Timthetoolman View Post
What Paul is saying is not to cut the LE off the cores...leave about 1" in front of the LE.
Kevin, Vince, and others shared their technique here http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...1811352&page=5

I didn't want to go through the double gluing process or change my glue of choice so I chose to get it as close to touching on the LE and then sand off any imperfections and add an 1/8" cap strip to the LE.
Thanks for the link. It occurs to me that with 4lb balsa running at about 4oz/sq yard for 1/16" sheet would it be possible to skip the balsa and just use glass cloth ? 1 layer of 3.5oz cloth + another around .75 oz should come to the same weight as balsa + cloth and might be stronger. Anyone tried this ?

<Edit: Just realized that figure excludes resin so I guess that restricts it to ~2oz cloth to get weight parity with 1/16" balsa>

Boo2
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Last edited by Boo; Nov 08, 2013 at 06:36 PM.
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Old Nov 08, 2013, 08:20 PM
CPA 30, SPA 523
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United States, TX, Fort Worth
Joined Nov 2009
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I have been working on that but the problem is that the surface does not come out smooth even if using mylar on the outside.
It's also too heavy. The Vertigo wings I made are 22 oz with ailerons, glass and retracts (need to add retract tubing, servos, hinges, tips, paint, and some clean up).

If you figure out a way of beating those numbers then my ears are wide open.
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Old Nov 08, 2013, 10:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timthetoolman View Post
It's also too heavy.
I tend to agree with Tim but I've seen this done before. Chris' Exception (used for a mold by Don) had glassed foam core wings.

The issue I see is that the foam is too "absorbant" of glue. Even with a smoothly sanded core, it is going to pool the glue in the small recesses. Should the cloth alone vs wood skin/cloth material weight balance out, the balance of weight is going to be in the glue. In the absence of a "fine grain" surface which can be sealed lightly (e.g., dope), more glue will be used in the first glass layup.

I'd be surprised if one can obtain more strength out of a glass skin alone vs a 1/32" balsa skin with strategic CF and a top 1/2 - 3/4 oz glass cloth finish. This of course, at comparable weight. I suspect of this was possible and it made sense, companies such as BVM would be doing this. Instead, a skin of balsa is always used in the composite wing layup.

The plus side of using balsa skins IMO, among others, is that it also provides the option for a film covered surface not to mention the nicer look in the raw!

I believe a Phoenix 8 was built a year or two ago with e-power on a 600 class heli motor and a 10x10 APC prop. The wings were skinned in G10 (or something like that) and the fuse was glass. The whole model was shot in paint.

David
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