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Old Jul 23, 2013, 09:51 AM
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Hmm.. Something happened.. RCGroups previously wouldn't let me load more than one picture.. Now it does.. Name: IMGP0855_edited-1.jpg
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Description: The extra (goofed) dihedral doesn't seem to fly with ill effects.. So far that I can tell
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Old Aug 25, 2015, 07:32 AM
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Hey Phil! Awesome build! Couple of questions

Your build looks amazing! I've just started to build one of these but I've got one of the modern kits with the vinyl spar and firewall?!?! They're about as useful as a bit of sponge!

I'm planning to sheet my wing similar to how you have done it, I was wondering how you joined your wing halves and did you use the included spar?

Also what hinges are you using on your control surfaces? They look really neat!

Cheers,
Matt
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Old Aug 25, 2015, 08:26 AM
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Hi Matt,
Thanks - she's still flying beautifully too. hasn't been touched at all since the last photo of her.

With the joining of the wings, I simply glued the two R1 ribs together after making sure they were true. I threw the main spars out. No need for them with balsa skins as the skin provides that strength and does their job.
Now to do that, what I did was get 4x kebab sticks and taped one under each wing at the tip, 1 inch inboard from the tip and one about 2" outboard from the R1 on each wing.
Each one had the pointed end forward and protruded exactly 3" forward of the LE.
I set the wing halves up on blocks to give me the right dihedral (washout was already built into each half when I sheeted them) and then measured the inboard points for exact same height above the building board. Do the same for the outer one. They must be equal to each other exactly.
When this is all jigged up (do it over the wing plan so the LE's are in the right spot too) stand back and look at them. You should see the washout in the outer sticks. If they are uneven, then you can correct them at this point.
If they are uneven then the stall of the wing will be uneven. So this part is critical.

To ensure tensional strength in the wing, the belly block bridges the skin join. I think I carved that but in any case is not a major issue.
The flight loads appear to focus at the join but in practice the wing saddles on the fuselage take the loads so make sure these surfaces align.
Best to do the wings first, locate them into the fuselage skeleton and then set the saddles to fit snugly down on to the top skin of the wings.
These models don't weigh much and the balsa skin techniques is remarkably strong.
Add to that, the film covering provides even more strength, it is virtually bullet-proof
I have cartwheeled my A6M2 (built at the same time using the same technique) hard into the ground 3 times and the wing has never been damaged.
The fuselage and empennage have been destroyed but the wing is still sound.

The hinges are made from the old 3" floppy disk material. Pull the disk apart and cut the plastic disk into strips, cut to length and slot them in.
I usually hinge at the top of the wing between the skin and the aileron spar or (because I use 1/8" soft balsa for the tails) slot the middle of the tailpanes/control surface and away you go.
An exacto knife is the right thickness for this so it's quick & easy and lasts forever.
Some of my other builds will have detail on this no doubt.

On the ailerons, I place the aileron spar (in the wing) vertical but the LE spar of the control surface is angled back to allow for downward deflection clearance.

Hope that helps?

Cheers & good luck - Phil

ps don't forget to make sure the wing AoA is reduced as shown in this thread. Important because the design is for Free Flight.
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Old Aug 25, 2015, 09:28 AM
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Fantastic! That helps a lot. Finally, a sensible use for floppy disks!

This is my first ever build and i'm loving it, so much more satisfying than putting together an ARTF.

I've already built the fuselage as to the spec though which is slightly problematic as i'm now trying to work out how to correct the AoA. I was thinking maybe sanding the rear of the wing saddle down a bit so as to reduce the AoA. But not sure if that's the best way to approach it, what are your thoughts?

Cheers and thanks for the help!
Matt
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Old Aug 25, 2015, 06:49 PM
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Yes, do raise that TE up, at least 1/8" (3mm), I'd being going more towards 3/16" (4.5mm)

You can sand it to raise the back edge.
Don't forget the wing will have dihedral so the saddle plates will need to be sanded higher than the center.
When you finish, the back end of the saddle plates will be thin. you can add a little scrap balsa above them to give you more width if you want it.
But the wing fillets can do some work for you here so don't worry about losing structural strength. There is a lot of structure inherent the design of the plane to support the flying loads.


If you don't make this mod, when you power it up, the plane will just want to fly in loops. every time you hit the power it will zoom upwards.
If that happens, you will need to angle the motor thrust line downwards until you can get level cruising flight at 3/4 throttle.

Phil
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Old Aug 25, 2015, 07:25 PM
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Hey, Phil-

I've been out of the loop for years, but I'm loving the looks of your build, nice job!

Glenn
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Old Aug 26, 2015, 02:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spurgeo View Post
I've already built the fuselage as to the spec though which is slightly problematic as i'm now trying to work out how to correct the AoA. I was thinking maybe sanding the rear of the wing saddle down a bit so as to reduce the AoA. But not sure if that's the best way to approach it, what are your thoughts?
Hey, Matt-

I too had built my fuselage for my Stuka conversion when I found out the as-designed incidence for FF was way too much. The layout of the way the wing was fitted to the saddles was a bit problematic too. Perhaps looking over my solution might be helpful to you:

HERE

Glenn
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Old Aug 26, 2015, 08:34 AM
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Bingo Glenn!
...one picture = more than my ramble could ever achieve.

Matt - this is your answer. Not as hard as it appears.

Thanks Glenn - great to see you back!

- Phil
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Old Aug 27, 2015, 03:17 PM
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Hi Phil,
That build looks absolutely awesome! Nicely put together!
I have bought myself a Guillow's 403 the Spitfire kit to put together with my girlfriend. And I would like to know what kind of servos you are using in you build.

Thomas
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Old Aug 27, 2015, 06:50 PM
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Hi Thomas,
I usually use a Hobby King Hextronic 9g for ailerons and a Hobby King Hextronic 5g for the elevators.
They are cheap and reliable. So cheap I usually buy and extra one of each, just in case one is faulty.
Over the years I've had two that were bad (out of about 100).
You can buy spare gears for them too. But I just use the gears from the spares if needed.

Great little servos.
I can't paste a link right now as the HobbyKing site is offline

Good luck with the build!

- Phil
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