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Old Jul 31, 2015, 06:53 PM
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Hi TLC,
I like these nylon clevises: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...or_10pcs_.html
Light weight, strong, and adjustable for 1.2mm or 1.0mm carbon rods. They come with a 2mm screw, or you can get 2mm set screws for really light weight: http://www.ebay.com/itm/191596324308...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I lash on a short piece of .020 music wire (or maybe bigger) with a Z bend, and CA it on the other end (control surface end) using thread.
Good luck!
Mike
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Old Jul 31, 2015, 08:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlcglider View Post
I got my Spector, motor and esc today. Sent Monday from WA to IN. That part was okay. I have not inspected the fuselage, but it would appear that there is some warpage to the wings. I can fix that with a heat gun, I hope.

My motor that I bought is a Turnigy XP D2830-11, 1000 kv. While it looks okay, the shaft has have its ends switched. I took the c-clip out, pulled the outer section off and found that not one of my allen wrenches fit the set screw to release the shaft from the housing. Bummer. I live so far out in the sticks, that another motor shipped is cheaper than a drive to the nearest city of any size for the right tool. I cannot measure the set screw wrench size down in that hole. I'll find some other use for the motor later.

Now looking at getting a Turnigy SK3, which already has the shaft correctly orientated. I need the battery and bullet connectors for the esc anyways as they came bare, so an order of something is eminent.

I have read almost the entire thread and wish to junk the furnished pushrod set up. If one wanted to go carbon fibre pushrods from the very start, which size rod should I get? Do I need to get housings to run them in? carbon, plastic, etc? I will only be ordering from the HK US warehouses or another hobby supplier, no China direct. My flat foamie 3D plane has carbon pushrods that I am not really enthused with, otherwise carbon pushrods are new to me. I need to figure out how to terminate the ends to servo and control horns.



Lincoln
Hi Lincoln, it takes some effort to iron out all the problems, but it's worth it.
About the motor shaft: Even with the right key it is quite a job to get the shaft out, as it is usually glued in as well. So you have to apply the heat gun while pulling it out. All the while you have to be careful not to overheat the can or the magnets lose some magnetism.
I managed to use the stock push rods after I filed out the holes in the tale to straighten the bend. A few distance holder along the sleeves keep them from moving.
My major problems were the servo mounts, as there is not enough height in the fuselage for vertical mount and the wing is too thin for standard servos. But I managed.
I have a quick and nasty building log on youtube you may want to check out:
HobbyKing Specter 1.8m Glider, Building Log (2 min 19 sec)

Also, I found with optimised propeller (Graupner) and good C value of battery (1300 40C) 150W is plenty of power.

Good luck

Tony


Tony
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Old Jul 31, 2015, 09:06 PM
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I agree with Tony on all points.

Oddly enough, I just changed the shaft on one of my KDA 22-20s yesterday. I had broken it taking it out of the Specter and now I need it for a new 3D foamy. I now have the procedure down to less than an hour.

1. Drill hole in an inconspicuous portion of a table or bench that will accept the end of the shaft.
2. Dig through drawers to find that old, broken, 3mm shaft.
3. Polish up the exposed end of the broken shaft to remove burrs that might destroy a bearing.
4. Disassemble motor and place the bell with the shaft on the table/bench with the end of the shaft in the hole.
5. Using the old, broken, shaft as a punch; hit the bleeping thing, hard, with a two-pound sledge hammer until the old shaft is forced out.
6. Tap in the new shaft and reassemble motor.

The funny part is that the hardest part of the entire operation, for me, is getting the C-clip on the new shaft. On this one I just clicked the clip in place and then slid the new shaft in from the end and gave it a few taps to get it seated right. It sounds simple in theory but it was very frustrating getting the new shaft to line up with the hole in the bell. I ended up using that same old broken shaft to center the stator against the pull of the magnets and then knocked the new shaft into place. I am hopeful that my new motor will arrive before I need to change another shaft!
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Old Aug 01, 2015, 04:24 PM
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Hi guys, thanks for all the support.

Has anyone thought of modifying or replacing the ruddervators and running the pushrods out the back of the fuselage? I have seen this somewhere on RCG in the past, but forgot where and not sure how to get that out of the search engine. I was thinking that if one moved the horn connectors to the inside edge, or made 1/16" ply horns and added some filler and lined them so that the horn connectors lined up right but did not interfere with each other, one would eliminate all bends in the control rods completely. A pair of 2mm carbon rods would probably be able to run perfectly straight between the servo horn and the control horn without any need for support. Harley Michaelis does that with the elevator on his new Easy Eagle 2014 design. I find it interesting and wanted to know what yall thought?

My fuse is warped like so many so I will be looking at straightening it with heat in some way.

I am waiting for my servos to get here from China. I got the Corona DS843MG for the wing servos.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...g_0_10sec.html
I will be interested to see if they would also fit the fuselage. I have several Tower pro SG90 servos just sitting here and had intended to use them in the ruddervators, but since swill found out that Hitec 55 series fit without modification of anything, I might switch to those. $18 a pop is more than I want to add to this project after the motor thing. Learned that a little too late.....

Lincoln
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Old Aug 02, 2015, 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by tlcglider View Post
Has anyone thought of modifying or replacing the ruddervators and running the pushrods out the back of the fuselage? I have seen this somewhere on RCG in the past, but forgot where and not sure how to get that out of the search engine. I was thinking that if one moved the horn connectors to the inside edge, or made 1/16" ply horns and added some filler and lined them so that the horn connectors lined up right but did not interfere with each other, one would eliminate all bends in the control rods completely. A pair of 2mm carbon rods would probably be able to run perfectly straight between the servo horn and the control horn without any need for support. Harley Michaelis does that with the elevator on his new Easy Eagle 2014 design. I find it interesting and wanted to know what yall thought?
I found the picture I was looking for. It was for a DJ Aerotech Chrysalis. Link to it here:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...9&postcount=50

One could look at the thread picture gallery to see what others did with their ruddervators on the Chrysalis. I think this change would make a lot of sense vs a potentially binding setup that exits the sides of the fuselage.
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Old Aug 03, 2015, 07:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlcglider View Post
I found the picture I was looking for. It was for a DJ Aerotech Chrysalis. Link to it here:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...9&postcount=50

One could look at the thread picture gallery to see what others did with their ruddervators on the Chrysalis. I think this change would make a lot of sense vs a potentially binding setup that exits the sides of the fuselage.
Thanks for the link. I had this in mind but didn't think of using ball joints. Obviously the elevators would have had to be modified, so I just filed out the slots to straighten the bend of the push rods. Who has the patience when you want to fly your new plane! Since it works for me I am not in a rush to change it.

Tony
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Old Aug 05, 2015, 01:10 AM
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Ok, been reading the thread after I bought on from the HK sale -$48! I may go motor less for this one at the slope spot. Thanks Peter for turning me onto this plane!
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Old Aug 05, 2015, 01:29 AM
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It should be very capable on the slope and it's easy enough to add a motor later. Let us know if we can help getting it set up.

Cheers!
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Old Aug 06, 2015, 10:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scarborofun View Post
Thanks for the link. I had this in mind but didn't think of using ball joints. Obviously the elevators would have had to be modified, so I just filed out the slots to straighten the bend of the push rods. Who has the patience when you want to fly your new plane! Since it works for me I am not in a rush to change it.

Tony
I was not focusing on the ball links so much as the running the pushrods out the back of the fuselage in a straight no bend run. There are other ways to hook up that kind of run, and that can be seen by clicking on the thread gallery link on that page.

Yes the ruddervator would need to modified or replaced, but that is not hard.
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Old Aug 17, 2015, 01:22 PM
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Has anybody tried using Airtronics 94805 servos all around? Slightly smaller then HXT900's.

http://www.hobbypeople.net/index.php...tal-servo.html
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Old Aug 21, 2015, 06:52 PM
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Got mine today, here's the weights

Fuse 107
Lt Stab 13
Rt Stab 12
Rt Wing 114
Lt Wing 108
Canopy 13

Total 367g (12.95 oz)

aileron servos. Not much room. http://www.alofthobbies.com/dsm44.html
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Old Aug 21, 2015, 10:16 PM
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Let us know how the servos work out, AP. I've been thinking of optimizing my servo installation over the winter and they are on my short list to try.
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Old Aug 22, 2015, 11:51 AM
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WAA-08 THANK FRANK!
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DSM44 is very much like the Dymond-44. I opened mine and lubed the well with lithium grease, like now I do for all my servos.

The metal gears are strong, but not exactly precise. I used 4x this servo on my libel sal/dlg. That wing and boom were not stiff enough to put much load on the servos.

I have to look at my wing to see which servos I put in the PasserX/Spectre
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Old Aug 22, 2015, 04:01 PM
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Thanks for the info, Jim.

I recently went through a spate of bad luck with servos, a little transport damage and two major crashes, and discovered that most of the "metal gear" servos I had actually have one plastic gear. When subjected to anything but normal flight loads the metal gears cut through the plastic one. Luckily, I discovered that I was able to restore quite a few to new or better than new condition by mixing and matching gears. I posted a mini how-to about my experience but, silly me, I had ended up mixing up all the various gears so I wasn't able to be very precise about which gears will work in what servo! Still, it's definitely worth taking a peek inside one's broken servos to see what can be salvaged.

I have found one HobbyKing 9gram class servo that does have all metal gears, the TGY-50090M, and they have been holding up well but don't have quite enough torque for the ailerons on my Yak foamy but I wouldn't hesitate to use them for glider applications up to a 2 meter general purpose glider like the Specter or a bigger floater. I'll add the link to the post that I made. If you guys have favorite, or least favorite, servos feel free to add to the thread.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2480932

Cheers!
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