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Old Jul 23, 2014, 10:21 AM
Team Extreme Flight, JR, BandE
Georgetown, IN
Joined Dec 2003
2,159 Posts
Discussion
Extreme Flight 83" MXS now here

I am gonna start this thread off by doing some additions to the assembly guide and like all the other EF threads all comments/suggestions/talk is here on this new bird.
Jeff
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Old Jul 23, 2014, 10:22 AM
Team Extreme Flight, JR, BandE
Georgetown, IN
Joined Dec 2003
2,159 Posts
Sorry it has taken me this long to get into the assembly but here goes. These steps I show are not meant to be an assembly guide, USE YOUR INCLUDED MANUAL. Rather this is intended to show some of my procedures as a supplement to the included assembly manual so follow your manual and then read along here as you go for additional tips. OK, in typical EF fashion you begin by hinging the elevator/stab and the wing. I will combine these two steps as they are very similar. Before we mix any glue lets prepare our hinges, they need a scuffing so they adhere to the glue better. The way I do it is to chuck the hinge halfway into my cordless drill and then take a piece of 150 grit sandpaper and twirl the hinge within the sandpaper. I do this to all the hinges on all the surfaces so I won't repeat this again. Also be sure to scuff the section of the control horns that will be in the holes. Next, I like to use a toothpick to get 30 minute epoxy into the hinge holes. I like to let a drop of epoxy fall into the hole then whats left on the toothpick lather the next hole. I repeat this along the holes till all of them have received at least one drop and one lathering. Mate the elevator to the stab and the aileron to the wing. Now install your servo of choice, you will likely need a small 3" or 6" extension. Be sure to orient the output shaft toward the aileron, I used a JR8911HV but other servos with at least 300oz of torque and metal gears are acceptable. However if you fly high energy then consider at least 400oz as these ailerons are huge. If you use an extension then here is something I do to secure that connection from the servo to the extension. Some of you will use a keeper and those are fine, I like to use dental floss. I prefer the wax coated as it sticks to itself better, I just wrap two times running it between the wires and making at least two separate knots one on each end of the connector and then cut the excess. This is very lightweight and since you not be taking the connection apart on a regular basis you want this to stay together. I avoid heat shrink as this will contain heat and I have seen this distort the plastic on the connector due to heat, the dental floss is cheap, strong, lightweight and does not hurt anything when bounced around inside the wing during flight. One new thing EF has done on this plane is to have a spiral cut piece at the wing root so you can route your aileron servo lead thru it and into the fuse, this keeps that wire from the aggravating episode of it falling down into the wing. You can hook up the aileron pushrod now too, EF has done something really nice by separating all hardware into area specific zip bags. This eliminates the confusion of where each piece of hardware belongs, a nice touch good job Chris. Now with that said I did see that my particular kit had the aileron pushrods in the elevator bag and vice versa. Also I noted my main wing accessory bag was labeled main wheel instead of main wing. OK a couple early production snafus, Chris knows and I am sure future runs will be exact. So if there is any confusion be sure to use the shorter pushrods on the ailerons and the slightly longer on the elevators.
Jeff
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Old Jul 23, 2014, 10:22 AM
Team Extreme Flight, JR, BandE
Georgetown, IN
Joined Dec 2003
2,159 Posts
At this point you should at step 20 in the assembly manual. The included manual is very good here and I cannot add a lot but I will address a few areas. First you will hinge the rudder but not glue it into the vertical yet...........so do this as we did in wing/horizontal stab steps. I would like to address the control horn installation. The manual is very good here too, but I want you to be sure to have a paper towel soaked in rubbing alcohol readily available. Install as per instructions and then wipe clean with the alcohol soaked paper towel until clean. Now take a ruler and be sure the horn is perfectly centered regarding the hinge line. Also make sure the control horn does not have one side higher than the other, thus be sure it is centered and level!!!
Now deal with the tailwheel, by drilling a 1/8" hole for the ball link that will receive the tailwheel steering tiller rod. I grind flat spots on the all axles and/or anywhere a set screw will be used. Now let me say DO NOT grind deep, it only takes a small flat spot and be sure you put that flat oriented that in the future when you retighten it that it is easy to access. For me this is usually on the bottom or if it is vertical then on an open side.
Jeff
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Old Jul 23, 2014, 10:23 AM
Team Extreme Flight, JR, BandE
Georgetown, IN
Joined Dec 2003
2,159 Posts
OK, getting back to assembly writing. Next you will go to putting the gear on it. Not much to note here just that the head goes inside the fuse and the nylon insert nut goes on the bottom of the gear itself.
Next you will mount the axles, tires, collars and pants. Again it is a good idea to file a flat spot on the axle and then Iike to orient that flat spot to the bottom of the wheel pant opening in case you ever have to tighten the collar again it is easier to access. The manual is very good in this part so not much to add. One thing I do is set the airplane on a flat surface and lay a block of wood or something of equal height under the rear of each pant. What this does is set each pant to the same angle while you drill the hole for the bolt to secure the pant.
Jeff
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Old Jul 23, 2014, 10:25 AM
Team Extreme Flight, JR, BandE
Georgetown, IN
Joined Dec 2003
2,159 Posts
Now to mounting the motor. I used a DA50 and EF has included a plastic template for that particular motor and it works great. I used it and drilled my holes for the DA50, if you use the included standoffs the spacing on the cowling works perfectly, way to go Chris on that one. Be sure to use red thread lock here on the engine mounting bolts. I had quite a bit more work here because I used an ES Composites pipe and had to open every bay on the bottom to gain access for mounting. I basically put the pipe, header and engine all together and slide it in the tunnel. Then I made some home made mounts to secure it and then recover the openings. Sounds simple and it really is that simple, but sometimes it can be tedious to get some of the parts in there to mount so take your time and get your pipe secure in the tunnel. You can see in the pictures I made mounts in two pieces to facilitate the installation. If you prefer a one piece mount you will need to put the mount in first then the pipe/header.
Jeff
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Old Jul 23, 2014, 10:27 AM
Team Extreme Flight, JR, BandE
Georgetown, IN
Joined Dec 2003
2,159 Posts
We should be at step 37 in the manual. I used JR8911HV's all around so for the rudder just orient the output shaft toward the tail. The manual really does not need added to here, just follow those steps and you should find it easy to setup. One thing to consider is a rudder tray, I did not put one in but I usually do when running a pull pull because of the stress of those cables constantly pulling on that output shaft. I suggest you consider one of these they are very lightweight and easy to install, take a look at SWB or Taildragger RC versions. Now the million dollar question, how tight should my cables be? I hear this question often and even among experienced modelers I still hear varied answers, so if you disagree with me I understand and run them where you are comfortable. OK so what I do is just estimate the tightness, if you feel they are like guitar strings then too tight, but if they sag at all then too loose. In this plane the cable cross so I usually say you should not be able to touch the two cables together in a straight run, but since they cross I just occasionally squeeze them and if they feel too loose then tighten them. Now remember these things loosen with time so after the first day out flying it check your cables. Then just an occasional check should keep the cables correctly tensioned. One final note, you will notice in the pictures of the tail that I put heat shrink over the crimp on the cables to protect them from rubbing on anything.
The horizontal stab/elevator are removable and thus require you mount them with the included M3 bolts. Once on the airplane now we can install the elevator servos. I used 2" servo arms from Taildragger RC, there are others like SWB, Spot on, Airwild and others that make good arms. Use a good quality metal arm that is tapped for 3mm. Now mount your servo with the output shaft oriented toward the rear, then hook up your ball link/pushrod just like the manual says and we have always done. The manual states a 36" extension but mine only used a 24" since my receiver is aft of the rudder tray for CG purposes.
Jeff
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Old Jul 23, 2014, 10:29 AM
Team Extreme Flight, JR, BandE
Georgetown, IN
Joined Dec 2003
2,159 Posts
Now for the cowl, you find this is a task that most everyone fears. I will just say that there are those who have messed up a cowl cut and those that will. So lets put that fear behind us and really look at the procedure EF has suggested. It really takes the guess work out of it and makes a feared task so simple. I suggest you read steps 42-45 before proceeding, unless you are a pro at this and have done it before as it is the same procedure. Now that you have read those steps you should be ready to go. Another thing I do it really use a lot of that blue tape and be sure your cowl will not move once you are ready to drill the holes. Also, some guys put double stick foam tape on the back of their spinner for proper spacing. I use 1/8" balsa sometimes for my spacing but I tend to like a little more spacing than some. You decide and proceed with cutting your cowl.
The throttle mounting is not addressed in the first shipment so let me add some on that. I used the already cut laser hole in the floor of the motor box. I bent a piece of all 2-56 rod and then soldered a dubro threaded coupler onto the one end and a 2-56 ball link onto the other end. I did this because I had to make a couple bends in the rod to get it to the carb.
Jeff
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Old Jul 23, 2014, 10:30 AM
Team Extreme Flight, JR, BandE
Georgetown, IN
Joined Dec 2003
2,159 Posts
That is a basic wrap on assembly, there are a few other things to consider like where do I put my fuel dot, gas tank, batteries, receiver and switches. Ok well I put my switches in the laser cutouts in the fuse toward the front of the plane. You can easily see those cutouts or mount them somewhere else that makes it convenient. The fuel tank goes right in front of the wing tube and I suggest two straps of one wrap or other type restraining material. My fuel dot is the EF dot and I mounted it on the right side of the plane just behind the cowling. Because I ran a DA50 with an ES Composites pipe I knew I would need tailweight. So I just laid the RX and batts where I thought I would need them and then tried to balance the plane for a mid range CG. I found that I had to put my 1100mah ignition A123 battery in the tail. You can see it in the above post where I showed the X in my rudder cables, it is located halfway between the end of the pipe tunnel and the tail. The RX and the RX lipo (3300mah 2S) are on top of the pipe tunnel just aft of the rudder tray.
Jeff
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Old Jul 23, 2014, 10:30 AM
Team Extreme Flight, JR, BandE
Georgetown, IN
Joined Dec 2003
2,159 Posts
Now you have a plane ready to fly but it needs graphics. EF includes a decal sheet and it will work great or you can select one of many RC graphics companies.....OK this is a shameless plug for BandE graphix but there are other companies that make great graphics. Choose who you like and dress up your new MXS, this a great flying plane and deserves the few minutes it takes to install graphics. Below are some before and after shots of my graphics package.
Jeff
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Old Jul 23, 2014, 10:31 AM
Team Extreme Flight, JR, BandE
Georgetown, IN
Joined Dec 2003
2,159 Posts
I am going to put a full setup post here, but my angle meter has a dead battery and takes a unique battery I have it on order and will address all my setup later this week (8-18-14). OK it was not the battery so I sent it to Horizon and they fixed and I just got it back yesterday (10-15-14 BTW Horizon service was incredibly fast I was slow at sending it in). I got my throws last night and here they are:
Low High AUCG
Ail 27 34 39
Elev 27 45 55
Rudd 30 tte tte
(when I edit everything lines up, so sorry that when I post it everything misaligns.)
This the throw in both directions, expo is 30/40/45 for each rate respectively and in both directions.
(AUCG = All u can get, you could mechanically get more but it just is not necessary IMO)
(tte = to the elevator)
I am going to Spookfest this weekend and if Jase has his there I will get his throws.
Ok so here are Jase Dussia's throws
Aileron 38 up 34 down Elevator 62 up and down, rudder within 1/2" of hitting the elevators and he runs one rate. Also he is running the DA35 with ES Composities pipe and 20X9 Falcon prop max rpm is 7600.

Some things I can say now that I have about 15 flights on it including a few flights by Jase Dussia and his assessment. I am running no mixes, this plane is so close to tracking as straight as an arrow I have not put anything in the TX. I will add I am a huge advocate of using mixes, but don't if not needed. My CG is almost smack dab in the middle of the recommended range, it weighs 14lbs ready to fly, I am running a 2S A123 1100mah ignition on my DA50 with ES Composites pipe, 2S 3300mah lipo on my receiver, my RX is a JR RG831BP, ignition switch is a JR as is the RX switch, 5 JR8911HV servos for the surfaces and 1 JR8411HV on the throttle, Taildragger RC 2" servo arms all other equipment is stock from EFRC. Any replacement covering on the scheme I have is True Red/Midnight blue/white.
Flying the airplane: this thing is easy to fly and tracks very true. When you consider the size of this plane and how it flies I truly have never flown a plane that flies this well for its size. I had Jase Dussia fly this plane a few times to get a conversing opinion, but in the end Jase and I see things eye to eye on how the plane should track, balance and throws. I have a triple rate setup, low rates for precision flying, middle rate which is actually a high rate for most all of my 3D flying and then a higher rate that gives me basically all I can get (pretty much to the bevels). My highest rate is not used for anything but harriers, hovering, walls, parachutes and similar type manuevers. My mid rate which is my most used high rate I use for cranks, poptops, high alpha knife edge, KE spins, upright and inverted spins, flipouts, KE walls and most any other maneuver. As soon as I get my angle finder going I will post all my throws and the expo.
Jeff
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Old Jul 23, 2014, 11:00 AM
Watts Up
Buck Tracker's Avatar
Canada, AB
Joined Apr 2013
784 Posts
So do you actually have the plane in your shop?
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Old Jul 23, 2014, 11:17 AM
Registered User
Joined Jun 2008
164 Posts
He has already started on Flying Giants. He does have one.
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Old Jul 23, 2014, 11:23 AM
doh!
ryan_m's Avatar
United States, AR, Little Rock
Joined May 2006
4,552 Posts
Mine arrives tomorrow. Looks like I might be falling asleep at my desk on friday since I'm sure I'll be staying up late working on the beast!!
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Old Jul 23, 2014, 12:44 PM
Registered User
United States, FL, Altamonte Springs
Joined Jun 2012
1,755 Posts
This won't be a cheap plane to put together. 300oz servo? The 78 extra only needed 180.

Hmmm.. Futaba BLS172 or Hitec 7955? Not a fan of Hitec... As mentioned in the other thread "The bitterness of low quality stays long after the sweetness of low price wears off."
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Old Jul 23, 2014, 12:52 PM
Watts Up
Buck Tracker's Avatar
Canada, AB
Joined Apr 2013
784 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by voxel View Post
This won't be a cheap plane to put together. 300oz servo? The 78 extra only needed 180.

Hmmm.. Futaba BLS172 or Hitec 7955? Not a fan of Hitec... As mentioned in the other thread "The bitterness of low quality stays long after the sweetness of low price wears off."
Savox has lots of servos that will work good and usually they are cheaper!
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