Originally Posted by modelerchina

"Another solution is a filter. You can filter the signal by passing it through a recorder such as the AIPtek MPVR. You can also pass it through a coaxial to RCA converter box. These generate an artificial sync signal that keeps the monitor going through static."

Can you shows a setup for coaxial to RCA converter box

This is an off the shelf item here in the U.S. They are becoming less common now with the popularity of HDTV.

Another option is the time base corrector.

This is my setup. My Tx Rx, Patch Ant, low pass filter are all from NGhobby, it should be matching. Camera is from ebay, the only thing I don't have is I remove the magnet ring from camera cable. And as the camera is a no cased one, I guess maybe the problem.

I have had same issue with another set of Tx Rx from futurehobby, they all have about same range so I am feeling Tx/Rx may not be all the problem. I test with patch ANT, it is better than whip ANT, but only about 20 meter better. And it give me out the beam signal, (90degree still get signal ) but just won't go further range.

I am teaching our daughter how to fly FPV. I hope you find this interesting and useful. It is a work in progress.

Here was my son's log four years ago... He's a huge help in teaching his sister.

If you're worried about the camera, then simply test without it.
Unplug camera, power up Tx and Rx verify that you're getting a clean black screen
and go fly the plane a couple hundred yards away visually and see if the black screen
turns noisy. If it does, it's probably external interference. Go to some very rural
area and repeat the test. If it's clean, then there's your problem.
At my home flying site overlooking the city, I can't fly on 900Mhz band more than 150 meters
without crippling noise. In some areas of the suburbs with less visibility to
the rest of the city, that goes up to a mile or so. Out in the mountains 30 miles
from the ciy, flying 2+ miles away is no problem.

The other place to look is at the SMA connector on the end of the patch cable.
I've had numerous SMA connectors tear away from the shield ground over time
and then they have to be replaced. When it happens though the connector
will feel a bit loose (it may turn when it's not suppose to).

ian

The Patch Antenna can be either Horizontal or Vertical installed as per manual says, the Tx side is vertically positioned when I do test, polarization should be fine, as I watched the Vimeo video, very cool stuff.

"Unplug camera, power up Tx and Rx verify that you're getting a clean black screen", this will definitely give me blue screen, why black?

I am trying to do a test that put Camera several meters away from Tx unit, or use a DC output signal. Will it works as the longer wire the less conduced noise will influence?

Oh, now I know your problem! It's the "blue screen of death". You never got static did you? Just went black suddenly. Sadly, this is very common with modern screens. you need a filter or some device to generate a sync signal or a screen that shows static rather than going black on you.

What happens is the when the signal begins to weaken even slightly, the video signal amplitude begins to drop. The threshold of most devices to go blue/black screen is actually quite high. Thus you get a black screen well before signal is lost.

-Alex

Simple question.
At the 100m distance you mentioned earlier, do you see static, or blue screen?

ian

Excuse for my English, I am not quite sure what is static what is black.
right, never get static, if static means snow flake all screen. When distance goes up, it starts to get flakes and stripes, and then total blue. I am pretty sure that I got very clean blue screen. There is actually never been a static screen ever.

I am using a ebay 7"LCD used for car monitor. My question is why the radio link drop so much in terms of S/N. I searched out google, AIPKIT some DV stuff can synchronize signal, but it seems to be too bulky too complicated and maybe more hussle to put in FPV system.
Why so many other people get range very easy? I already changed two TxRx system and both come out same.

Originally Posted by modelerchina

Excuse for my English, I am not quite sure what is static what is black.
right, never get static, if static means snow flake all screen. When distance goes up, it starts to get flakes and stripes, and then total blue. I am pretty sure that I got very clean blue screen. There is actually never been a static screen ever.

I am using a ebay 7"LCD used for car monitor. My question is why the radio link drop so much in terms of S/N. I searched out google, AIPKIT some DV stuff can synchronize signal, but it seems to be too bulky too complicated and maybe more hussle to put in FPV system.
Why so many other people get range very easy? I already changed two TxRx system and both come out same.

I think part of your problem is the screen . I have a friend who started FPV shortly after I did . He seemed to get blue screens almost straight away while I was able to go away at least twice the distance before I begin to see some dropouts in signal (I am using goggles).
He swapped his 7"LCD for an old 19" TFT television screen that did not go blue on loss of signal and the transformation was immediate! he could go the same distance than me. Now he flies on goggles.
Another thing, some receivers need a ground plane to improve reception. try laying down the receiver on the floor and see if this makes it better.

What's the best way to splice in the power to the camera and VTx as described in the diagram in Chapter 5 of the guide? Do you just cut the servo extension wire, strip both ends and the battery lead, twist them together and then cover the exposed wire with electrical tape? Is there a more secure way to get the T connection in the diagram? Thx.

Originally Posted by S9coldfire

What's the best way to splice in the power to the camera and VTx as described in the diagram in Chapter 5 of the guide? Do you just cut the servo extension wire, strip both ends and the battery lead, twist them together and then cover the exposed wire with electrical tape? Is there a more secure way to get the T connection in the diagram? Thx.

I use a servo Y lead. I must say that all my cameras are sporting servo connectors.

Great information and its been truly valuable.

Question, has anybody done any projects with the camera mounted inside the cockpit? I'm looking to get a true inside effect by placing my system in a Dyna Flite Super Decathlon. I may even install flaps to slow it down. Definitely going with pan and tilt system to look around from within. I'm concerned about clarity looking through the windows and/or glare of of it at certain angles. I'm even looking into variable zoom options. Let me know how off I am and/or what success you've had.



gil

Originally Posted by capngil

Great information and its been truly valuable.

Question, has anybody done any projects with the camera mounted inside the cockpit? I'm looking to get a true inside effect by placing my system in a Dyna Flite Super Decathlon. I may even install flaps to slow it down. Definitely going with pan and tilt system to look around from within. I'm concerned about clarity looking through the windows and/or glare of of it at certain angles. I'm even looking into variable zoom options. Let me know how off I am and/or what success you've had.



gil

Yes, VRFlyer is probably the best known for his "Inside Cockpit" setups and flying. (there are other folks that have done this too)
Be aware that he has a great deal of experience at FPV.
Not saying a new person can't do it, but it's always good to start simple and work your way up to more complicated setups.

Check this for some cool stuff > http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=622190

...and this.... F-16 cockpit flying! > http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1111348

Originally Posted by capngil

Great information and its been truly valuable.

Question, has anybody done any projects with the camera mounted inside the cockpit? I'm looking to get a true inside effect by placing my system in a Dyna Flite Super Decathlon. I may even install flaps to slow it down. Definitely going with pan and tilt system to look around from within. I'm concerned about clarity looking through the windows and/or glare of of it at certain angles. I'm even looking into variable zoom options. Let me know how off I am and/or what success you've had.

gil

This is slightly different but can give the effect you're looking for :
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1312788

Originally Posted by S9coldfire

What's the best way to splice in the power to the camera and VTx as described in the diagram in Chapter 5 of the guide? Do you just cut the servo extension wire, strip both ends and the battery lead, twist them together and then cover the exposed wire with electrical tape? Is there a more secure way to get the T connection in the diagram? Thx.

Soldering is the BEST, and than cover with Heat shrink. Loose or untidy connections are a killer.

Heres an example of a complete system with color coded heat shrink, to prevent wrong connections. (micro size but still the same ideas)

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1207