SMALL - espritmodel.com SMALL - Telemetry SMALL - Radio
Reply
Thread Tools
Old Mar 24, 2015, 04:41 PM
watch your head
Germany, MV, Wismar
Joined Jun 2014
109 Posts
Started a 146% Polaris
I have to wait for the oversize depronplates for fuse and mainwing.
I started to build a 3mm plywoodcenter for the towersandwiched wit 3mm depron on each side.
IŽm still not sure, what motor i should use. Playing with the idea of a 35/30 1700kv on some 8" or 9" prop. . I have that thing on a 1,5m Versa and it is very powerfull.

any suggestions?
van3st is offline Find More Posts by van3st
Reply With Quote
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Old Mar 24, 2015, 10:15 PM
60 years of RC flying
Daedalus66's Avatar
Canada, ON, Ottawa
Joined Feb 2006
17,612 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Su-33 View Post
Thanks D66, i plan to build one but i don't have access to depron only similar stuff to dt foamboard do you have any tips to reinforcing the wing without making it heavy?
I haven't built with it but those who have say DT foam board with the paper removed works fine. The wing gets its strength from the CF main and leading edge spars. I have done some building with Model Plane Foam, which is softer than Depron, and find it very good.

So I don't see any need for structural reinforcement.

I always put tape on the leading edges (and sometimes trailing edges) of wing and tail to help protect from dings. Generally it's 2" colored packaging tape on the leading edge, with about 1 1/2" on the top of the wing and the rest wrapped around the LE.
Daedalus66 is offline Find More Posts by Daedalus66
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 24, 2015, 11:15 PM
Registered User
rayonnair's Avatar
Singapore, Singapore
Joined Jun 2012
2,147 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by van3st View Post
Started a 146% Polaris
I have to wait for the oversize depronplates for fuse and mainwing.
I started to build a 3mm plywoodcenter for the towersandwiched wit 3mm depron on each side.
IŽm still not sure, what motor i should use. Playing with the idea of a 35/30 1700kv on some 8" or 9" prop. . I have that thing on a 1,5m Versa and it is very powerfull.

any suggestions?
I built a 150% polaris.

I initially used an NTM 3536 1400KV on 9x6 and 3S. She was a wallowing beast at almost 2kg, and it wasn't quite enough power. I eventually changed to a SunnySky X4110S 680KV motor, turning a 10x7 xoar prop, on 6S. It flies much better now.

A warning about the prop, I was told that wood props can get damaged in the water spray. Might want to keep an eye out for that.
rayonnair is offline Find More Posts by rayonnair
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 25, 2015, 02:08 AM
watch your head
Germany, MV, Wismar
Joined Jun 2014
109 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by rayonnair View Post
... 2kg, ...
wow, I hoped to get a flightweight of about 1,2 - 1,4 kg.
WeŽll see. IŽll try to keep the Motor easy changeable.
van3st is offline Find More Posts by van3st
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 25, 2015, 07:29 AM
Registered User
United States, PA, Hunlock Creek
Joined Oct 2013
33 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vito View Post
Place to fly from water in Penna/NJ?
I see several people in my area on this thread. Does anyone know of a place I can fly my Polaris from water? It works from grass but I am itching to use it like it was intended.I have tried all clubs in the area and asked at state and county parks and found nothing.
Sorry to clog this thread but I am despirate.
Vito
Keep an eye on this club's website. They generally have one or two float flies a year. I don't see any listed yet in the events page but keep checking it.

The club fly's at Moon Lake Park.

Wyoming Valley RC Flyers
http://www.wyomingvalleyrcflyers.com/
scottp111 is offline Find More Posts by scottp111
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 25, 2015, 07:45 AM
Registered User
rayonnair's Avatar
Singapore, Singapore
Joined Jun 2012
2,147 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by van3st View Post
wow, I hoped to get a flightweight of about 1,2 - 1,4 kg.
WeŽll see. IŽll try to keep the Motor easy changeable.
I built her really heavy .

Theoretically she's still in the ballpark. A 100% polaris is ~550g. 150% scaled linearly = 1.5*1.5*1.5*550 = 1856g. She flies well enough.

Ggtronic got his below that with a gopro and a gimbal attached, so there is definitely room for improvement. I did a straight scaling, used 9mm foam and a heavy spar structure. If I were to do it again I'd cut down on a lot of things .
rayonnair is offline Find More Posts by rayonnair
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 25, 2015, 08:24 AM
Registered User
USA, PA, New Hope
Joined Nov 2001
925 Posts
Thanks Scott. I planned of going up there last year, but the ice was on the lake and it was cancelled. I figure it is the same this year. The club was very responsive to an Email request but just can't control the weather.
I am planning a trip to Nall this spring, but want some practice before then.
Vito
Vito is offline Find More Posts by Vito
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 25, 2015, 09:26 AM
watch your head
Germany, MV, Wismar
Joined Jun 2014
109 Posts
I ordered a 3536 1700kv. That can handle up to 10x6
van3st is offline Find More Posts by van3st
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 25, 2015, 09:48 AM
60 years of RC flying
Daedalus66's Avatar
Canada, ON, Ottawa
Joined Feb 2006
17,612 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by van3st View Post
wow, I hoped to get a flightweight of about 1,2 - 1,4 kg.
WeŽll see. IŽll try to keep the Motor easy changeable.
That should be easy as long as you exercise restraint with the plywood reinforcements.

The standard 100% Polaris should come in at 22oz (624g) ready to fly, or less.

My Polaris XLs (I built two of them), which are 133% size, weighed 32 to 36oz (say 900 to 1000g), depending on the battery.

I would be surprised if a 146% version, built lightly, weighed much more than 45-50oz (1.3 to 1.4kg).

The motor you are proposing to use (3035) should be ample, though not a real powerhouse. I flew the XL with several motors, including an equivalent to that one and with it, it went straight up. I also flew it with the standard Polaris motor (Suppo 2212-06) and 7x4 prop and it flew well (including off water) but only climbed at about 45 degrees!

EDIT 3536 will be more than ample. You might try a Master Airscrew 9x7 three blade.
Daedalus66 is offline Find More Posts by Daedalus66
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 25, 2015, 10:06 AM
watch your head
Germany, MV, Wismar
Joined Jun 2014
109 Posts
Yep, that will be the only plywood rigg :P
I did it to prevent the tower from bouncing forward on heavy landings.
I had that on earlier versions that the prop was stripping the groundplate

The only extra weight will be the LED-strips an a little 6A controller for remote lighting.

It is the first Depron Polaris iŽm building ... the other where all EPP

Thanks for the advice, i will order the 9x7x3 mas. I only have 7x4x3 nd 6x4x3 here

....w8ting 4 parts...
van3st is offline Find More Posts by van3st
Reply With Quote
Old Yesterday, 10:20 AM
Su-27's Rule!
Su-33's Avatar
Philippines, NCR, Pasig City
Joined Nov 2012
881 Posts
D66, (or anyone else) what's the best type of hatch for water flying? Is it still tape over the seam?
Su-33 is offline Find More Posts by Su-33
RCG Plus Member
Latest blog entry: A cheap way to measure Kv
Reply With Quote
Old Yesterday, 02:10 PM
Registered User
Joined Sep 2006
609 Posts
I use electrical tape to seal the seam. It seals well and peels off without too much problem.
bob93447 is online now Find More Posts by bob93447
Reply With Quote
Old Yesterday, 02:33 PM
60 years of RC flying
Daedalus66's Avatar
Canada, ON, Ottawa
Joined Feb 2006
17,612 Posts
When I started out with my first Polaris, I carefully taped the hatch down for every flight.

I soon gave that up when I realized that Polaris, unlike the heavy glow powered float planes I used to fly, stayed on top of the water and almost never got any water above the wing (the old ones used to plough through the waves with the prop spraying the whole plane).

I now fly with the hatch held down with magnets and no special sealing. I also use an open air scoop and vent for cooling, so water can get in if things go wrong, but it would anyway, because in a serious "event" the hatch would come off. I speak from experience.

The precautions I do take are:

First, I put a piece of paper towel in the battery area to absorb any splashes that do get in. It's almost always totally dry after a session.

Second, I usually treat the receiver with CorrosionX to waterproof it.

Third, I make sure all the servos are sealed. In particular, I seal around the cable where it exits using something like Goop. I also smear Goop or similar on the seams. And I put some Vaseline around the output shaft.

Fourth, and most important, I treat the ESC with CorrosionX or seal up the ends of the heat shrink. The ESC is the one component that's almost certain to go up in smoke if it gets wet (though it sometimes survives if you resist the temptation to open the throttle.

With these measures, I've had my old Polaris completely submerged in a takeoff accident and still been able to taxi back to shore.

Back to hatches, I have become a fan of the long hatch advocated by Scott in the recent kits. It goes in one piece from the front of the battery area to the rear of the equipment section. It has a ply tongue at each end and magnets in the middle. It's tremendously convenient and I've had no issues of water entry.

Take a look at the Polaris EX on the ModelAero.com site to see an example.
Daedalus66 is offline Find More Posts by Daedalus66
Reply With Quote
Old Yesterday, 05:31 PM
watch your head
Germany, MV, Wismar
Joined Jun 2014
109 Posts
The motor has arrived. Looks like a good dimension.
van3st is offline Find More Posts by van3st
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools