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Old Jul 28, 2012, 06:28 PM
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United States, PA, Bethlehem
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Quick video showing almost no vibes.. I was really quite surprised!

Windy and NOT dialed in but happy with the initial image quality.

https://vimeo.com/46552215
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Old Jul 28, 2012, 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by robstach View Post
Quick video showing almost no vibes.. I was really quite surprised!

Windy and NOT dialed in but happy with the initial image quality.

https://vimeo.com/46552215
Looks good, I see it's a little windy... leaves blowing around, etc. Should be solid in no wind.
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Old Jul 28, 2012, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by robstach View Post
Got her airborne but I definitely need to switch to 4s if I keep these t-motor 900kv .... wayyy underpowered on 3s.

Still need to dial in the Naza but that won't happen until I get everything else sorted.

Liking the frame but wish the arms weren't as flexy. Also noticed that one of my legs doesn't sit as flat as the other 3. Rebuilt it twice and it didn't help. Not cool...

Anyway - most of my vibe issues are sorted. My video is pretty darn stable. No complaints there.

Looking forward to tweaking it and getting things straightened out!
If you have one arm not sitting flush, grab a file and lightly stand each side of the two tabs... just a couple strokes and re-test.

The flex is what absorbs motor vibrations.. this is why the video is smoother than a flat arm frame. But because the plates are vertical, they act like speakers and transmit the noise more than a horizontal plate. The vibration is from something else, so if you hear noise, you have something out of balance.

Also, check for motor plate slop... sometimes the material is thinner than normal (material thickness varies slightly due to the manufacturing process of the material).. simply placing a strip of scotch tape over the tab of the motor plate will act as a shim and tighten it up a little more.

Hope this helps
Tom
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Old Jul 28, 2012, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by robstach View Post
Progress is slow but that's by my own hand. I rushed through some things and didn't do my homework .... BUT, there's an end in sight! Been meaning to post pictures .. here they are. Still needs some tidying up but it's getting there.



Awesome setup….I like the Remzibi……have thought seriously about getting one. You have come a long way quickly. How is your static balance front to back?
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Old Jul 28, 2012, 07:56 PM
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I had the Remzibi OSD on an FPV glider and it is fantasic for the money. Far batter than any other OSD I have used.

This is my flight with the Remzibi here:
Flying FPV Florida (4 min 36 sec)


Would like to build another one of these... anyone have a Radian glider for trade ?
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Old Jul 28, 2012, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by vic20owner View Post
If you have one arm not sitting flush, grab a file and lightly stand each side of the two tabs... just a couple strokes and re-test.

The flex is what absorbs motor vibrations.. this is why the video is smoother than a flat arm frame. But because the plates are vertical, they act like speakers and transmit the noise more than a horizontal plate. The vibration is from something else, so if you hear noise, you have something out of balance.

Also, check for motor plate slop... sometimes the material is thinner than normal (material thickness varies slightly due to the manufacturing process of the material).. simply placing a strip of scotch tape over the tab of the motor plate will act as a shim and tighten it up a little more.

Hope this helps
Tom
Hey Tom - thanks for all the feedback.

Regarding the arm: it isn't so much that it is not sitting flush but more like there is a flex in the frame. If I push down on the rear left arm the right front arm will come up about 1/8th of an inch. The tabs are nice and flush - I see no binding anywhere. I'm wondering if one of my standoffs was a little off.

The problem seemed better once I had the middle plate off last time. Need to double-check.

The noise is better now that I found one badly out if balance prop. They're all balanced now and looking (and sounding) good.

The motor plate on one arm did seem a little loose. Will scotch tape it tomorrow. Great tip. Ty!
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Old Jul 28, 2012, 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by AlanFlorida View Post
Awesome setup….I like the Remzibi……have thought seriously about getting one. You have come a long way quickly. How is your static balance front to back?

Thanks Alan! Yep, I move quickly sometimes. .

I picked the Remzibi purely on the ability to customize the screen. Really great feature. Little bit of a learning curve but after a few hours of experimenting I had it how I wanted. I was mostly interested in batt voltages and direction home. Haven't flown any real fpv with it yet but soon enough.

The GPS is a little slow compared to my RVOSD setup but it is nothing to worry about. When I say slow I mean that the satellite count refresh is at 1 minute intervals.

Static balance is exactly where the ht-fpv manual says it should be. It's just a tad nose-heavy which I am okay with.

All that's left is a new set of correct iv motors (on their way) and Maybe a new gopro lens. I didn't notice the scratch on the last video. I transferred the 900kv motors to my DJI Flamewheel. They're working great on that frame.

Phew!!
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Old Jul 28, 2012, 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by vic20owner View Post
I had the Remzibi OSD on an FPV glider and it is fantasic for the money. Far batter than any other OSD I have used.

This is my flight with the Remzibi here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uHF2VsV3DeU

Would like to build another one of these... anyone have a Radian glider for trade ?
Vic,

Great video!quick question for you.

I've researched a bunch but can't find these two answers:

1) does orientation of the Remzibi board matter? Is there a "front"?

2) the gps should be mounted with the wires to the front or the back?

Thanks in advance!

Rob
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Old Jul 28, 2012, 08:33 PM
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Las Vegas, NV
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Originally Posted by robstach View Post
Vic,

Great video!quick question for you.

I've researched a bunch but can't find these two answers:

1) does orientation of the Remzibi board matter? Is there a "front"?

2) the gps should be mounted with the wires to the front or the back?

Thanks in advance!

Rob
I had a Remzibi OSD way back when. Yeah, the user customability is/was really nice.

As for orientation...it makes absolutely no difference how you mount either the OSD or GPS (except the top of the GPS antenna needs to face skyward. The only thing that really needs orientation is if you're using a magnetic compass...then it needs to face forward...it should be marked which end is forward IF you have a mag sensor installed...they also need to be calibrated.
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Old Jul 28, 2012, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Vantasstic View Post
I had a Remzibi OSD way back when. Yeah, the user customability is/was really nice.

As for orientation...it makes absolutely no difference how you mount either the OSD or GPS (except the top of the GPS antenna needs to face skyward. The only thing that really needs orientation is if you're using a magnetic compass...then it needs to face forward...it should be marked which end is forward IF you have a mag sensor installed...they also need to be calibrated.
Thanks man! No compass and have the right side up so I should be good to go.

Appreciate it!
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Old Jul 28, 2012, 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Vantasstic View Post
Do you have an ohm meter? If so, touch the leads between any two + and - pads. If you have ~0 ohms then you have a direct short somewhere in the board. If you are reading in the Mohm range then you should be good.

Last thing...I don't like exposed pads like this. If anything conductive gets on them you're looking for a serious short to happen. I put hot glue over my pads (used or unused) to insulate them. The hot glue will peel up pretty easy if you need to resolder/add a wire.
Got a multimeter and more hot glue today. Ohm meter shows that the board's fine, except for when I test the positive battery lead that's had its connection popped like a fuse. Touching the copper that's still connected to the rest of the board however shows that's fine as well. So the board's good, the intended positive battery lead has just been isolated.

I'll move the positive battery lead to another positive pad then hot glue all the soldered connections tonight, and that should do it.
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Old Jul 28, 2012, 10:35 PM
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United States, SC, Myrtle Beach
Joined Jan 2012
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Originally Posted by robstach View Post
Hey Tom - thanks for all the feedback.

Regarding the arm: it isn't so much that it is not sitting flush but more like there is a flex in the frame. If I push down on the rear left arm the right front arm will come up about 1/8th of an inch. The tabs are nice and flush - I see no binding anywhere. I'm wondering if one of my standoffs was a little off.

The problem seemed better once I had the middle plate off last time. Need to double-check.

The noise is better now that I found one badly out if balance prop. They're all balanced now and looking (and sounding) good.

The motor plate on one arm did seem a little loose. Will scotch tape it tomorrow. Great tip. Ty!
I see the same with my frame. I've torn it down and rebuilt a few times but that warp (for lack of a better word) was always there at the end. It always reappears after installing the middle center plate and tightening it down.

The only issue I've ever had with the build is the motors get hot. Not sure if this had to do with the warp in the frame or that the motors are borderline power-wise.

I'd like to know also if this is normal or not.
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Old Jul 28, 2012, 10:41 PM
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Well, first question is what do you consider hot? If you can hold your fingers on them for 6 seconds they are not hot. 2 seconds? Hot!

The HT-FPV is heavier since it's bigger... so if you add a gopro and larger battery it could be pushing the motors. Are only the front motors hot? If so move CG back!
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Old Jul 28, 2012, 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by vic20owner View Post
Well, first question is what do you consider hot? If you can hold your fingers on them for 6 seconds they are not hot. 2 seconds? Hot!

The HT-FPV is heavier since it's bigger... so if you add a gopro and larger battery it could be pushing the motors. Are only the front motors hot? If so move CG back!
Tom,

I'd have to say they're hot based on your guidelines. These are the blue Keda motors you/Paul used to use on the 450 quads.

The motors that get hot are opposing and coincide with the arms that have the warp see-saw effect.

I'm currently in the process of upgrading the ESC's and motors, so we'll see if that makes any difference.
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Old Jul 28, 2012, 11:12 PM
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Certainly give 4S a try, and if you can, drop Kv too. I tried both Avroto 770 Kv and the RC Tiger 900 Kv at 3S and it just did no fly the way I wanted (with both MultiWii and CopterControl board). I went to 3900 mAh ThunderPower 4S with the Avroto motors and GemFan 11x4.7 carbon-filled props and flights are really nice now. I'm using the Quadrino rev 1E board with MultiWii 2.1. Note that my build is a bit on the heavy side (see details in earlier post), but I'm okay with that. I was flying in some breezy conditions earlier in the week and stability was very good.

Regards,
John

Quote:
Originally Posted by robstach View Post
Got her airborne but I definitely need to switch to 4s if I keep these t-motor 900kv .... wayyy underpowered on 3s.

Still need to dial in the Naza but that won't happen until I get everything else sorted.

Liking the frame but wish the arms weren't as flexy. Also noticed that one of my legs doesn't sit as flat as the other 3. Rebuilt it twice and it didn't help. Not cool...

Anyway - most of my vibe issues are sorted. My video is pretty darn stable. No complaints there.

Looking forward to tweaking it and getting things straightened out!
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