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Old Aug 27, 2015, 10:30 AM
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A 5s-6s friendly 2200kv 29mm inrunner using 70mm 10-blade fan. Stay away from Dr. Mad Thrust units if you're on a budget, they literally weigh twice as much. My 4s 3000kv aluminum unit was 11.5oz, where stock motor/fan is only 5.5oz.......the 10-blade unit weighed 2x as much but also put out twice the power.

When my stock motor fried I took the opportunity to upgrade to said unit and did not like the extra 6oz it added to the Meteor....though the sound was a very cooool jet sound and not a pissed off hairdryer. So, I ordered the stock motor from MotionRC and putting the stock fan back in.

The Dr.Mad Thrust unit is a 68mm fan.
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Last edited by DeadstickDuck; Aug 28, 2015 at 06:52 AM.
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Old Aug 27, 2015, 05:44 PM
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Thanks Deadstick. I will look around for something like that.
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Old Aug 27, 2015, 07:04 PM
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I am not sure what DeadstickDuck ended up doing, it was unclear....

BUT the DrMad 2200kv inrunner is a great bargain motor to use!!
They are a bit heavier than more expensive motors seeing they use 'weaker' parts - but you pay $35 instead of $75! eg the DrMad versus HET 2W30 2200kv. The 'larger' weaker parts mean the end result is pretty much the same in ability - just heavier for the DrMad.
I have HET's (2W30's), and DrMad 2200kvs, and the results are the same.

The DrMad's (which are really Lander supplied motors) work totally fine and all foamies can carry a TON more weight with no issue. My 6S Meteor is way heavier than stock.... I forget, stock is 1.2Kg? Mine is 1.55kg. More weight flies like a REAL jet, not a feather weight toy. There are 'negatives' to higher AUW, but they are only exactly what 'negatives' a real jet has too! So I have no issue flying a model that acts like a real jet!
And just changing this motor alone is not even close to my AUW!

The 2200kv can also run 6S, for 'rocket power' - as per I use. It will fly a bit faster than stock when used with 5S. Because it is 2200kv, down from the 4S 3000kv (or 3200kv), the RPM ends up similar. But on 6S it is WAY more powerful.
5S use can still use the stock Detrum ESC, but 6S will need and 80Amp ESC... best is the HobbyKing Redbrick 90/100.... small enough still, very cheap, and very reliable (as reliable as any).

There is also a DrMad 2600kv motor which would be high power for 5S. A bit too high for my liking, LOL.
2200kv is 'too low' and just 'average' power, but you really want 2400kv approx for the 5S - but there is nothing of use around. So the 2200kv has to do.

If you use 6S, just like the stock fan combo on 5S, you do NOT have to USE the highest power levels! eg You can limit throttle % to just the same as 5S.
eg the 6S 2200kv CS10 will draw up to 68Amp at WOT (typically only on full fresh battery and more in the low 60's afterwards), but to fly around you only need 30 Amps (or whatever), so that is only 700W region then. Not the 1300W+ it can do at 100% Throttle.
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Old Aug 27, 2015, 07:22 PM
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Ya, half asleep here. I will fix my post when I wake up.

I have the Dr Mad 4s motor, can't think of it, too foggy. Its 1300w.


Done editing the last post to clear up some thoughts.
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Old Aug 28, 2015, 04:27 AM
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Thanks guys. I ordered a 2600kv from HK to try. Just my price range.
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Old Aug 30, 2015, 03:48 PM
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Is there a good inexpensive fan that would work with the HK 2600kv motor? One that out performs the stock fan.
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Old Aug 30, 2015, 05:53 PM
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Not inexpensive....

The Wemo EVO will run better and sound better, but costs quite a lot...

The Freewing 70mm (cheap from hobbyking but not named Freewing) is a good normal fan - though whilst it is quite different than the Dynam, the Dynam fan is ok too.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...inch_70mm.html

Do the EVO wins that in result but not cost.
You can buy just the Rotor and adaptor for the EVO and put it onto the current Dynam housing/motor you have. Check the motor shaft diameter to be sure you get the right adaptor if you do that.
Typically you can just put on an EVO, and even do no balancing, and it will be a quite good result. Or spend a bit of time 'clocking' it to get it better. (followed by 'proper' technical balancing to get perfect balancing and whirr/purr running fan)

For people with fan blade rubbing the housing.... it is best NOT to just let it rub and 'bed in'. That is a pretty terrible idea technically! Though it sort of works in at least having a non-rubbing result eventually.
The best idea is to remove the fan and motor and CENTRE the motor better/best. Sometime you can't move it in the housing enough.
Next is to 'turn down the fan' which is quite easy. Remove the fan and shaft adaptor and assemble that in an electric drill. Mark a few blades with an approximate 1mm mark - to show how far you have reduced the diameter. Have a sanding block (thus flat) and run up the drill and grind the fan off against the sanding block. It works very easily and you can just stop and check the amount closer you are to your marks to tell what diameter you have reduced. It is also quick and easy to slip the fan back into the housing to check the new clearances. Once done, do the normal, various, balancing methods. eg The 'Clocking' way at least.

These ways will give you a fan that truly is never going to hit the housing!
Fan diameter is not critical down to even almost 2mm gap in a 70mm fan (as tested by Wemo themselves) - though I myself believe it MUST affect it..... but probably so minor it is unimportant to us really. But the aim is at least 0.5mm tip to housing gap at the worst spot, and I aim to no more than 1mm anywhere. That is quite easy to achieve!

....
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Old Aug 30, 2015, 06:27 PM
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Thanks Peter. That's a clever way to grind the outside of the rotor blades. And thanks for the fan info. I will look into them.
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Old Aug 30, 2015, 09:02 PM
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I think EffluxRC sells Wemo in the US.
Otherwise TurbinesRC in France is good!

You don't need the spinner really, so you can save a bit by only getting the rotor and adaptor. Maybe another $5 or so for the spinner.
But note, Wemo spinners are a very tight fit! This makes them hard to get off to even 'move' around to balance the assembly! You really need to grind down the rotor hub at the spinner joint, so it is just slightly tight. Doing that well is not easy - but you can do it.
I prefer to just save the money, and effort (time), and have no spinners!
A spinner is of little use and probably only someone going for ultimate speed records need bother, LOL.
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