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Old Mar 17, 2012, 10:02 PM
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So I was going to take the esc off and see if it could be re- soldered, and the three metal plugs inside the plastic cover pulled straight through the plug and then pulled the three pins right out if the esc like the switch did what the heck is up with this thing!!!! Starting to get frustrated....
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Old Mar 17, 2012, 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by crash goodly View Post
thats all i had was tiny nubs but the solder took well to them. after i soldered i covered the soldered areas with silicone and it works fine. mine were all cracked through when i got it new. mine looked like some dink at the factory bent them all then pushed them back and cracked them all through. i've had a couple of dozen runs and no problems. i put the new metal gears in mine last night and ran it today. i also opened the gyro clutch one turn more so the wheelies come up a bit faster now, but i have to be a bit more sensitive on the throttle until i get used to how easy it lifts the front wheel now.
I wouldn't mind trying to solder it, but now that the reaceiver prongs did the same thing I have 5 tiny things to solder and th other three left even smaller nubs, not to mention the bike is only 2 weeks old and only has 4 runs on it, I'm hoping venom helps me out and warranties it for me nice it's almost new.
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Old Mar 18, 2012, 12:00 AM
RC Dirt Bike Action
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California central coast
Joined Feb 2010
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Originally Posted by cmpilot View Post
Just wondering if any one can help me out? Just got a VMX (used) and LOVE IT! But I'm having a little trouble with it. If I go in just a straight line it seems to work fine, if I even touch the steering it instantly falls over and is impossible to get back up and going, all it does is spin around in a circle... Am I just not driving it right or does it sound like it could be something else? I did check the clutch and one of the springs seems to be a lot looser than than the other. Could the clutch not be engaging correctly and causing this???????

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank You
Maybe steering or gyro...
Is the steering setup correctly so when you turn radio left front wheel turns opposite (counter steering)? If rear tire has enough grip eventually bike should pick itself back up, just with throttle. On extremely dusty or slick surface it is difficult to get bike back up though. A dead gyro could behave like that too however. I dont know what terrain it was on you do.

Regarding the gyro, what was the measurement for space between clutch plates (should be 2.5mm to 3.0. How would the spring be loose? Is the screw thread stripped? Did both get locktite? Does the gyro sound like its getting a lot of speed on full throttle when you hold it and does gyro spin for a long time after you stop throttle to wheel?
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Old Mar 18, 2012, 12:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Rellik View Post
I wouldn't mind trying to solder it, but now that the reaceiver prongs did the same thing I have 5 tiny things to solder and th other three left even smaller nubs, not to mention the bike is only 2 weeks old and only has 4 runs on it, I'm hoping venom helps me out and warranties it for me nice it's almost new.
yup.. thats all i had was 5 tiny nubs to solder too. flux them, silver the wires first and they do take. check with venom first they may cover it for you.
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Old Mar 18, 2012, 06:56 AM
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i sure hope they do, i payed good money for this and i love it!!
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Old Mar 18, 2012, 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnnyMc View Post
Maybe steering or gyro...
Is the steering setup correctly so when you turn radio left front wheel turns opposite (counter steering)? If rear tire has enough grip eventually bike should pick itself back up, just with throttle. On extremely dusty or slick surface it is difficult to get bike back up though. A dead gyro could behave like that too however. I dont know what terrain it was on you do.

Regarding the gyro, what was the measurement for space between clutch plates (should be 2.5mm to 3.0. How would the spring be loose? Is the screw thread stripped? Did both get locktite? Does the gyro sound like its getting a lot of speed on full throttle when you hold it and does gyro spin for a long time after you stop throttle to wheel?

Thanks for answering JMC, LOVE the bike you did. Once i get my poop in a group and get this running right and can drive it good enough not to destroy it, I think im gonna do a Team Suzuki or Travis Pastrana bike. I have a friend with a vinyl plotter that can do full color and die cut stickers (just like the upgrade rc kits). I would love to pick your brain about some sticker kits some day, if you don't mind.

Steering is correct. I'm just running in my cul de sac, so on the street. I set the clutch gap to 3.0 mm. As for the screw if it's turned in all the way so you can't pull the clutch apart it's tight, if a back it out a few turns it feels loose so I guess it could be stripped and the spring on that side is also a little suspect like it's stretched and could be replaced. As for the sound of the gyro, I've never heard one that's operating correctly but it sounds like I would expect it too and it spins long after I give up trying to make it stand up and have to walk down the street and pick it up. I know they are a challenge to drive but the way this bike is it seems nearly impossible, let's just put it this way it doesn't go like the video shows... I've never seen one run in person so I have nothing to compare to but posted videos.
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Old Mar 18, 2012, 08:26 PM
RC Dirt Bike Action
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California central coast
Joined Feb 2010
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Im at a loss for your situation. Its not like a 4 wheel car where you hold steering wheel full rotation during entire turn. You rotate steering to initiate turn then return steering to 0 while you apply throttle to get out of lean, making minor steering adjustments. Way better explainations out there to search for.

I dont know if its steering, crash side bars setup ok, the street has grip or slick and dusty. Venom has some tech videos on youtube, those may be handy to watch just to see if your bike looks like its setup right. Ive only had a rc bike for a year so Im a novice to solving general mysteries like this. Sounds like you may need to message Chris Nicastro on here.

I guess not knowing what gyro should sound like is difficult, but once full speed you should feel force of gyro when holding the bike. It should spin for a long time after 0 throttle. As long you dont hear anything binding, Im not sure then maybe its ok.

If you click my name you'll see some blogs I wrote about the bike. Plan now is to do a video of some sort. Send me a message if you need help at some point.
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Old Mar 18, 2012, 08:58 PM
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Ontario, Canada
Joined Feb 2009
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HI guys,

Well I finally got to run my VMX today. I got it new from my Wife for Christmas but I had one issue. The Front shock was really weird. It always seemed stiff when it was on the stand and after I pushed it up and down a few time it would be free. Today when I was out it didn't work at all. It would get stiff at any range. I would go up to it free it and then I would start to drive and notice it wast doing it again.

Made the bike very hard to drive with no front dampening.

Any suggestions?
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Old Mar 18, 2012, 09:35 PM
MY '75 CZ "FALTA REPLICA" 2010
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Waterford, Michigan
Joined May 2006
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Originally Posted by cmpilot View Post
Thanks for answering JMC, LOVE the bike you did. Once i get my poop in a group and get this running right and can drive it good enough not to destroy it, I think im gonna do a Team Suzuki or Travis Pastrana bike. I have a friend with a vinyl plotter that can do full color and die cut stickers (just like the upgrade rc kits). I would love to pick your brain about some sticker kits some day, if you don't mind.

Steering is correct. I'm just running in my cul de sac, so on the street. I set the clutch gap to 3.0 mm. As for the screw if it's turned in all the way so you can't pull the clutch apart it's tight, if a back it out a few turns it feels loose so I guess it could be stripped and the spring on that side is also a little suspect like it's stretched and could be replaced. As for the sound of the gyro, I've never heard one that's operating correctly but it sounds like I would expect it too and it spins long after I give up trying to make it stand up and have to walk down the street and pick it up. I know they are a challenge to drive but the way this bike is it seems nearly impossible, let's just put it this way it doesn't go like the video shows... I've never seen one run in person so I have nothing to compare to but posted videos.
Hello CMPILOT, Since you a new to the bike hobby I have a few things ya need to make sure of before you launch the bike, and if ya already know this stuff, at least we all are trying to get ya going in this hobby. After all the mist and magic clears up you'll wonder why it took so long. (I'm still amazed these bikes will pick themselves up after a major crash! lol)

1.Make sure (I know ya mentioned it) that the bike steers left when you turn the controller wheel right and right when ya...you know the rest. Thats how they are work.
2,When the controller wheel is neutral, the front wheel of the bike has to point straight ahead, if it does not the bike will fall the opposite way the wheel is pointing when you launch. Trim radio or Adust linkage until straight.
3.Make sure there are no mechanical binds or rubbing of the plastic body (fuel tank) on the steering linkage. Mine did. Make sure the front wheel will flop freely from left to right when you tilt the bike left to right.
4.Spool up gyro to full speed by holding the throttle 1/2 speed, then full speed with the rear wheel off the ground(!) for 3 seconds or more (whatever it takes) till the gyro is WFO. Hit the brake and the rear wheel should stop quickly and the gyro should still be spinning fast (and not dragging the rear wheel along with it. If it drags the wheel let us know)
5. Now is the time to launch the bike, while the gyro is fully spooled up!!

Good luck!! Dave
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Old Mar 19, 2012, 01:09 AM
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Originally Posted by TopDave View Post
Hello CMPILOT, Since you a new to the bike hobby I have a few things ya need to make sure of before you launch the bike, and if ya already know this stuff, at least we all are trying to get ya going in this hobby. After all the mist and magic clears up you'll wonder why it took so long. (I'm still amazed these bikes will pick themselves up after a major crash! lol)

1.Make sure (I know ya mentioned it) that the bike steers left when you turn the controller wheel right and right when ya...you know the rest. Thats how they are work.
2,When the controller wheel is neutral, the front wheel of the bike has to point straight ahead, if it does not the bike will fall the opposite way the wheel is pointing when you launch. Trim radio or Adust linkage until straight.
3.Make sure there are no mechanical binds or rubbing of the plastic body (fuel tank) on the steering linkage. Mine did. Make sure the front wheel will flop freely from left to right when you tilt the bike left to right.
4.Spool up gyro to full speed by holding the throttle 1/2 speed, then full speed with the rear wheel off the ground(!) for 3 seconds or more (whatever it takes) till the gyro is WFO. Hit the brake and the rear wheel should stop quickly and the gyro should still be spinning fast (and not dragging the rear wheel along with it. If it drags the wheel let us know)
5. Now is the time to launch the bike, while the gyro is fully spooled up!!

Good luck!! Dave
JMC & Dave,
Thank you both so much for all of your help. I think I need to change my name to R/C DUMB A$$! Curosity got the best of me this evening and I decided to take the bike to the baseball field by my house, I have no idea why I didn't think about trying to run it somewhere else... Guess what it worked just like it should. Best time I've had running an r/c in a long time! I guess the street is just to dusty and slippery to run the bike on. Thank you both for all of your help. I'll be talking to you guys on here regularly. The bike has me hooked! I might even buy another one!
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Old Mar 19, 2012, 08:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TopDave View Post
Hello CMPILOT, Since you a new to the bike hobby I have a few things ya need to make sure of before you launch the bike, and if ya already know this stuff, at least we all are trying to get ya going in this hobby. After all the mist and magic clears up you'll wonder why it took so long. (I'm still amazed these bikes will pick themselves up after a major crash! lol)

1.Make sure (I know ya mentioned it) that the bike steers left when you turn the controller wheel right and right when ya...you know the rest. Thats how they are work.
2,When the controller wheel is neutral, the front wheel of the bike has to point straight ahead, if it does not the bike will fall the opposite way the wheel is pointing when you launch. Trim radio or Adust linkage until straight.
3.Make sure there are no mechanical binds or rubbing of the plastic body (fuel tank) on the steering linkage. Mine did. Make sure the front wheel will flop freely from left to right when you tilt the bike left to right.
4.Spool up gyro to full speed by holding the throttle 1/2 speed, then full speed with the rear wheel off the ground(!) for 3 seconds or more (whatever it takes) till the gyro is WFO. Hit the brake and the rear wheel should stop quickly and the gyro should still be spinning fast (and not dragging the rear wheel along with it. If it drags the wheel let us know)
5. Now is the time to launch the bike, while the gyro is fully spooled up!!

Good luck!! Dave
I noticed you said if you get the gyro going and stop the tire and then let it go the back tire shouldn't spin, I noticed the other day I had it on the bench and did that test and after hitting the brakes I could here the gyro hauling a$$ and I let go of the brake and the back tire started spinning slowly again, is this not normal? I thought it would be because of the momentom and weight of the gyro? If this is not normal, what could be wrong?
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Old Mar 19, 2012, 11:16 AM
RC Dirt Bike Action
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California central coast
Joined Feb 2010
1,734 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wicked!!! View Post
HI guys,

Well I finally got to run my VMX today. I got it new from my Wife for Christmas but I had one issue. The Front shock was really weird. It always seemed stiff when it was on the stand and after I pushed it up and down a few time it would be free. Today when I was out it didn't work at all. It would get stiff at any range. I would go up to it free it and then I would start to drive and notice it wast doing it again.

Made the bike very hard to drive with no front dampening.

Any suggestions?
1) Check to see if triple clamp screws (top & bottom both sides) are too tight. Sometimes backing those screws off some can help a LOT in situations of binding.
2) In my personal case, I found that the lower fork/axle clamps were spreading the fork shafts wide just enough to cause minor binding. With the wheel off, both forks were really smooth, but once wheel was on, they started to stick. I filed the inside of molding on lower fork axle clamps just a bit to reduce spreading.
3) Could be fork internals. Read Chris Nicastro's "blue printing forks" post on what to do.
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Old Mar 19, 2012, 02:44 PM
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Post Falls, ID United States
Joined Feb 2004
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Originally Posted by Rellik View Post
I noticed you said if you get the gyro going and stop the tire and then let it go the back tire shouldn't spin, I noticed the other day I had it on the bench and did that test and after hitting the brakes I could here the gyro hauling a$$ and I let go of the brake and the back tire started spinning slowly again, is this not normal? I thought it would be because of the momentom and weight of the gyro? If this is not normal, what could be wrong?
This is pretty normal since the gyro and the wheel share a common ball bearing set. It will become less so as the factory grease leaves the ball bearing. Lube the bearings with a light oil and do it often.
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Old Mar 19, 2012, 02:49 PM
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Post Falls, ID United States
Joined Feb 2004
4,310 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyMc View Post
1) Check to see if triple clamp screws (top & bottom both sides) are too tight. Sometimes backing those screws off some can help a LOT in situations of binding.
2) In my personal case, I found that the lower fork/axle clamps were spreading the fork shafts wide just enough to cause minor binding. With the wheel off, both forks were really smooth, but once wheel was on, they started to stick. I filed the inside of molding on lower fork axle clamps just a bit to reduce spreading.
3) Could be fork internals. Read Chris Nicastro's "blue printing forks" post on what to do.
Yep what Johnny said.
I'll add to that, if you blueprint the forks they will work much better than stock for sure and that's due to production tolerances that stack up. Sometimes its just an alignment issue after you use the bike for bit. Shimming the fork legs at the axle and squaring up the front end will cure most issues. We offer a little option kit that has shims and a new tougher front axle with end bolts to really make the front accurate and strong.
If your VMX forks are just not working and you feel you need to contact us then please do so before you modify anything. Once modified its out of warranty.
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Old Mar 19, 2012, 11:01 PM
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Joined Feb 2005
29 Posts
ESC setup with another motor

Hey Chris, finally got around to setting the motorcycle up tonight, or trying to. I wanted so use my Futaba 4PKS radio, as I had a few extra FASST receivers, even though I didn't need 4 channels.

Put the receiver in, and hooked servo and esc to it, and all seemed to power up ok, steering and all worked, but could NOT get the ESC to setup with the method (of which I have never seen) with holding the setup button through the whole thing, wondering if that is wrong, as Novak, Tekin, or anyone else I have used have never done a setup like that.

Well, I could not get it to setup with the way the book said, so I took one of my Futaba 3PK radios with a Spektrum Pro Setup in it, and plugged into that receiver and worked fine, no setup at all, no different model changes, just used what I had setup on one of my race trucks, so that got me to thinking. Put the 4PKS receiver back in and tried again and still nothing so I changed the model over to the same thing, as in the other radio (which had been setup on a Tekin RS Pro ESC) and worked fine. Tried another receiver, same thing, so changed the model on the radio to the same thing and it worked.

Question is, what if I had not already had things setup to other ESCs that were in other vehicles, how would you do a setup. Just don't think what the manual says with turn radio on, then, hold set button while you turn the esc on, and HOLD it, while going through your full throttle, then full brake then back to center.

Also I asked before if it is true that he ESC only puts out 5 volts, and think that is true, as boy those are slow turning servos, and can see it won't last long.
Jeff
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