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Old Sep 18, 2012, 01:59 PM
jocanon's Avatar
United States, AZ, Gilbert
Joined Jul 2010
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Nice find. I did not know about these. It's really nothing more than a power strip though, just instead of a strip it's cords. They are not computer plugs, so you would still have two computer plugs plugged into this then the switch would be a ways off from the PSU, and you would have extra cords dangling off to the side, suppose you could cut them off and insulate them, not quite as elegant though...so in light of that, is my idea a no go...any more opinions? I really don't have my heart set on this... it's just an idea I wanted to throw out there because if people wanted them I would definately be willing to bulk order and make them. I have not invested any money in this yet, so no loss if it's a bad idea.
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Old Sep 18, 2012, 02:09 PM
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United States, MN
Joined Feb 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jocanon View Post
Nice find. I did not know about these. It's really nothing more than a power strip though, just instead of a strip it's cords. They are not computer plugs, so you would still have two computer plugs plugged into this then the switch would be a ways off from the PSU, and you would have extra cords dangling off to the side, suppose you could cut them off and insulate them, not quite as elegant though...so in light of that, is my idea a no go...any more opinions? I really don't have my heart set on this... it's just an idea I wanted to throw out there because if people wanted them I would definately be willing to bulk order and make them. I have not invested any money in this yet, so no loss if it's a bad idea.
Wondering how hard it would be to crack it open and replace the cords with PSU cords....
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Old Sep 18, 2012, 02:11 PM
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United States, AZ, Gilbert
Joined Jul 2010
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Originally Posted by grimbeaver View Post
Wondering how hard it would be to crack it open and replace the cords with PSU cords....
I think you might be onto something there...that's may not be a bad idea. At the end of it all it would probably still end up coming up to the same $20 price tag, so I wonder if my idea still might be in play???
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Old Sep 18, 2012, 02:24 PM
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United States, AZ, Gilbert
Joined Jul 2010
514 Posts
If anyone knows where I can get a little plastic box without having to custom make one, that is not too expensive, that would be a very good find as well (I searched high and low on eBay, Amazon, general Google search, digikey, mouser, ect...and could not find what I was looking for).

Edit:
Nevermind...found what I was looking for
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Old Sep 19, 2012, 09:28 AM
Who put that tree there?!?!
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Indianapolis, IN
Joined Jan 2011
390 Posts
Dps-600

Question about the DPS-600:

i saw there were 2 ways to connect the three pins that turn on the PS. one is pins 6-8-10 and the other is pins 6-9-10. i tried it both ways and they both work. when i have 6-8-10 connected i have an output of 12.50V but when i have pins 6-9-10 connected i have an output of 12.66V. is there any problem using the 6-9-10 connection over the 6-8-10? i heard if you have the 6-9-10 connected it causes fluctuations in voltage when connected to another PS in series.
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Old Sep 19, 2012, 12:38 PM
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United States, AZ, Gilbert
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I don't know from experience, but according to rchelijc...

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Originally Posted by rchelijc View Post
...(Note: Tjinguy at his site shows that he shorts pins 6-9-10 instead to turn it on. I can confirm it works, but it limits your max output voltage to around 13.1V+/-, among other effects I didn't test. That's because you're shorting on the voltage control pin.)...
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Old Sep 19, 2012, 01:50 PM
Who put that tree there?!?!
jabu32's Avatar
Indianapolis, IN
Joined Jan 2011
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Originally Posted by jocanon View Post
I don't know from experience, but according to rchelijc...
but if im not going to increase the voltage i should just keep 6-9-10 because it gives me a larger output V.

the fan also doesnt seem as loud as everyone has be saying when its powered on.
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Old Sep 19, 2012, 01:56 PM
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United States, AZ, Gilbert
Joined Jul 2010
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See Dusey52's answer to the above here (much better than mine )

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...age=41#post601
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Old Sep 23, 2012, 05:08 AM
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The Netherlands, NH, Haarlem
Joined Oct 2011
71 Posts
Gents,
Thanks for all the tips, I ordered 2 HP DL580 G2 870W PSU's for $25.50 shipped and 2 HP Proliant DL580 G3 1300W PSU's for $33.90 shipped.
I'm flying to the USA to pick them up from a friends place, being a pilot has it's perks :-).

Anyway, just a question, I'm looking to use 10AWG to convert both sets to 24V series.
I can get solid copper 10AWG and stranded 10AWG.
I always thought the more strands the better as electricity flows mainly over the surface of a copper wire.
But in a different thread about "power strip box plans" a lot are using solid copper 10AWG to connect the 24V output to multiple parallel sets of banana jacks, so they can use several chargers at once.

What do you guys recommend I get, solid or stranded 10AWG.
And if stranded, as finely as possible?

Thanks for this brilliant thread to the op and the many contributors!

Danny
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Old Sep 23, 2012, 05:58 AM
ancora imparo
jj604's Avatar
Melbourne, Australia
Joined Jul 2005
6,611 Posts
The surface effect is only at high frequencies if I remember correctly.

At DC it makes no difference.

Flexible wiring is less likely to break if moved regularly but is a bit harder to solder (lots of wires -> lots more surface are for the same dia -> much more heat sink).

10 g fine strand is a PIA to solder unless you have a big iron with lots of thermal inertia.

It's a lot easier in my experience to use two smaller gauges. 12g is easy; 10 g is hard - thats seems to be the break point. A few thick strands is a lot easier than many fine strands.

Just my experience.

You don't say where you are but most mains wiring cable is good for at least 20A and is really cheap.

John
Quote:
Originally Posted by Remklep View Post
Gents,
Thanks for all the tips, I ordered 2 HP DL580 G2 870W PSU's for $25.50 shipped and 2 HP Proliant DL580 G3 1300W PSU's for $33.90 shipped.
I'm flying to the USA to pick them up from a friends place, being a pilot has it's perks :-).

Anyway, just a question, I'm looking to use 10AWG to convert both sets to 24V series.
I can get solid copper 10AWG and stranded 10AWG.
I always thought the more strands the better as electricity flows mainly over the surface of a copper wire.
But in a different thread about "power strip box plans" a lot are using solid copper 10AWG to connect the 24V output to multiple parallel sets of banana jacks, so they can use several chargers at once.

What do you guys recommend I get, solid or stranded 10AWG.
And if stranded, as finely as possible?

Thanks for this brilliant thread to the op and the many contributors!

Danny
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Old Sep 23, 2012, 08:15 PM
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The Netherlands, NH, Haarlem
Joined Oct 2011
71 Posts
Hi John,

Thanks for the reply.
I moved to Germany last year from The Netherlands, so we have 220V here.

I have some 14AWG fine stranded wire.
The rule of thumb says that doubling up on any type of wire means decreasing the guage by 3, so 2 x 14AWG is 11AWG. 4 x 14AWG would be 8 AWG, so 3 x 14 AWG must be 9.5 AWG.
I have enough red, black and white 14 AWG.

Would you recommend me using that and trippling up, or get 10 AWG?

Thanks,
Danny

Quote:
Originally Posted by jj604 View Post
The surface effect is only at high frequencies if I remember correctly.

At DC it makes no difference.

Flexible wiring is less likely to break if moved regularly but is a bit harder to solder (lots of wires -> lots more surface are for the same dia -> much more heat sink).

10 g fine strand is a PIA to solder unless you have a big iron with lots of thermal inertia.

It's a lot easier in my experience to use two smaller gauges. 12g is easy; 10 g is hard - thats seems to be the break point. A few thick strands is a lot easier than many fine strands.

Just my experience.

You don't say where you are but most mains wiring cable is good for at least 20A and is really cheap.

John
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Old Sep 23, 2012, 08:33 PM
ancora imparo
jj604's Avatar
Melbourne, Australia
Joined Jul 2005
6,611 Posts
Danny I would just triple the wires, making sure the ends have a good solid soldered or mechanical joint so all three are well connected. Effectively you are making 9.5 AWG multistrand wire with the strands separated into 3 equal groups.

The electrons don't care how the copper is distributed.

14AWG is almost exactly 2mm squared in area, 10 AWG is a bit over 5 mm squared so your estimate is correct. 3x 14AWG is thicker in cross section than 10 AWG - and a lot easier to solder.

John

Quote:
Originally Posted by Remklep View Post
Hi John,

Thanks for the reply.
I moved to Germany last year from The Netherlands, so we have 220V here.

I have some 14AWG fine stranded wire.
The rule of thumb says that doubling up on any type of wire means decreasing the guage by 3, so 2 x 14AWG is 11AWG. 4 x 14AWG would be 8 AWG, so 3 x 14 AWG must be 9.5 AWG.
I have enough red, black and white 14 AWG.

Would you recommend me using that and trippling up, or get 10 AWG?

Thanks,
Danny
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Old Sep 24, 2012, 06:08 AM
ancora imparo
jj604's Avatar
Melbourne, Australia
Joined Jul 2005
6,611 Posts
The Dual LED Display Digital Voltmeter Ammeter Voltage AMP Power Meter

So it arrived today and works a treat. I got the 40V, 50 Amp model.

Ordered on 17 September, posted the same day, arrived well packaged in a box with foam protection in Australia 24 September - all for $24 including postage. Not bad!

From here.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/-/3007475095...E:L:OU:AU:3160

I tested it in line with my EmeterII which I am fairly confident of. Out of the box it was very close. Voltage and Current spot on to within the different resolutions of the two devices. After taking the pictures, I did a little calibration on the current and got the mAH reading even closer to within about 10 mAh.

See the attached photos of various combos of reading.

Simple to use, particularly in 2 wire mode which is what you would want for a PS monitor. Convenient controls. The top and bottom arrows just toggle their respective displays between Voltage, Current, Power, Capacity and Time. Choose any two you want. Hold the OUT button down to enter calibration and alarm setings for the relay output - and be prepared for some entertaining instruction translation. It does nearly make sense if you read it a few times and try and understand what they mean not what they say.

You can calibrate volts and current against an external meter. Also reset to factory settings, something to do with the default displays (boot?) which I never figured out and you can set values of over current, over and under voltage, over capacity and over power which will trip the relay output.

You will have fun with some of the Chinglish.

Example: "Anode cannot answer the wrong, not at the correct measurement."
Better make sure you do that or else.

There are no instructions with it of course but I posted them in post 1749 .

John
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Old Sep 24, 2012, 07:20 AM
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The Netherlands, NH, Haarlem
Joined Oct 2011
71 Posts
Thanks for the tip, I got the 90VDC 100A version for $23.99 shipped :-)

Danny
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Old Sep 24, 2012, 07:48 AM
ancora imparo
jj604's Avatar
Melbourne, Australia
Joined Jul 2005
6,611 Posts
So you going to tell us where in case anyone else wants one?
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