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Old Dec 09, 2012, 11:28 AM
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I'll add another thought while I'm at it.

Why oh why has nobody appeared to have stuck lead tape inside a front tyre to push the CofG further forward, enable more gyroscopic force and let the front be less deflected by small bumps. They have done this for ages with the 1/8's and SB-5's. maybe it's time we loaded up the front wheels a bit to enable better tracking over uneven surfaces?

@Bonzo
What are the part numbers for the triple crown flanged bearings, and are they still holding up?
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Last edited by Jonathan Bradbury; Dec 09, 2012 at 11:50 AM.
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Old Dec 09, 2012, 11:50 AM
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As an edit.Maybe the low bar would be better mounted below the swing arm. It lowers CofG, it presents a 'flatter' profile on the wheelie bar/surface interface so helping stop 'snatch and daggering' on the surface too.[/QUOTE]

Now why didn't I think about .Job going in R&D if interested but pay is bad
Taken on board and all you need to do is reverse the blocks once your parcel arrives .
Have been thinking about the snatch and grab aspect which is lots better with the upturned end ( again your suggestion ).Also as the shock is no longer involved the bouncing it not so evident
Will try silver soldering some thin brass flat over the contact area so it acts like a skid .
Realise it will add a bit to the unsprung weight aspect but rather have it not lifting up like a bucking bronco
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Old Dec 09, 2012, 12:05 PM
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. As well as thinking about the front brake

Of all the tweeks I have done the front brake has seen the biggest inprovement
The Venom kit is the best option as it is easy to fit and because it is designed for 1/4 scale the disc is big and really stops .The kit comes with a servo but the only drawback is you need to look at a Tx/Rx where you can mix the 3rd servo
I tried a Y cable set up to the ESC set up but waste of time.
Must admit I didn't spend much time but never came up with a radio set up that had the same functions as the one supplied with the Venom .
Hobby King do a clone at good price
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Old Dec 09, 2012, 12:18 PM
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I've been thinking about the front brake, and it would appear in theory to be an essential.

You can dab the brake and induce forward motion to get the front end down quicker.

You can brake later as the 70% that the front end does (or possibly more) gives you better slowing rate.

You can over power the front brake to help lift the back end under braking whilst leaning over. This gives the 'Speedway' approach to turns, where the front gets the back to lift and slide, then allowing the back to do the turn gets you around.

I'll chat later, the Venom big disc looks quite a good solution.
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Last edited by Jonathan Bradbury; Dec 09, 2012 at 01:24 PM.
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Old Dec 09, 2012, 12:31 PM
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Now why didn't I think about .Job going in R&D if interested but pay is bad
Taken.
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Old Dec 09, 2012, 12:34 PM
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[QUOTE=Jonathan Bradbury;23482402]I've been thinking about the front brake, and it would appear in theory to be an essential.

If you think about it how many 1;1 bikes brake on the rear wheel ?
Only in wet/icy conditions when you dont want the front breaking away otherwise majority is done via front
The other aspect is despite the one way bearing braking the back reduces the gyro speed a bit
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Old Dec 09, 2012, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Jimob23 View Post
As an edit.Maybe the low bar would be better mounted below the swing arm. It lowers CofG, it presents a 'flatter' profile on the wheelie bar/surface interface so helping stop 'snatch and daggering' on the surface too.
Followed your suggestion and after placing the blocks on the underside of swing arm is the way to go
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Old Dec 10, 2012, 01:06 PM
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Hey Jim, good stuff and an interesting approach to the wheelie bar thing.

Hi Jonathan, I've been meaning to update my triple's mod, the lower flanged bearing failed on it's first run, the flange snapped clean off the bearing, so instead I've used bronze bushings pressed into the triple's plates along with a selection of shims.

I'll get some pics up soon
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Old Dec 16, 2012, 01:59 PM
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I know it's a long shot, but bare with me please!
Today I managed to dismantle the M5's rear shock, while running it in grass and lost the spring... (yea, we searched around... and no, I'm not sure what color it was, maybe I have some older pic for reference, I will have to check my files.)
However, I do have a Revo shock, complete with 3 springs (I have to check the colors), from my older Ricky.
Would you advise in installing the revo on the M5?! And... what oil and spring would suffice for bashing in flat dirt, asphalt track with grass etc... No jumps are in the menu, unless they are impromptu, of course!!!
(I posted a couple of pics at "did you run your bike today" thread... in the end of it).
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Old Dec 16, 2012, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by steliosh View Post
I know it's a long shot, but bare with me please!
Today I managed to dismantle the M5's rear shock, while running it in grass and lost the spring... (yea, we searched around... and no, I'm not sure what color it was, maybe I have some older pic for reference, I will have to check my files.).
I have a stock rear spring here, and I think I hear it saying that is waiting for you
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Old Dec 16, 2012, 03:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steliosh View Post
I know it's a long shot, but bare with me please!
Today I managed to dismantle the M5's rear shock, while running it in grass and lost the spring... (yea, we searched around... and no, I'm not sure what color it was, maybe I have some older pic for reference, I will have to check my files.)
However, I do have a Revo shock, complete with 3 springs (I have to check the colors), from my older Ricky.
Would you advise in installing the revo on the M5?! And... what oil and spring would suffice for bashing in flat dirt, asphalt track with grass etc... No jumps are in the menu, unless they are impromptu, of course!!!
(I posted a couple of pics at "did you run your bike today" thread... in the end of it).
Go Revo shock! I use the "blue" strength spring and try 80wt first. With the revo shaft I was able to use the m5/dx450 bottom shock mount. Take some fuel tubing and slip on the shaft to limit down travel. Now you got an adjustable rear shock.
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Old Dec 17, 2012, 03:01 AM
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ok! I will try the Revo one for starters, and then I will probably ride to Vegos' place to get a spring!!! (And a frappe!!)
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Old Dec 24, 2012, 11:55 AM
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I received the E-gyro today from Gregor, totally unexpectedly. Thanks Gregor, it's the second best Xmas present I'll get this year! (1st is having xmas with my daughter).

Looks nice, but will be better on the bike. I just wanted to post the translation of the instructions and how, despite $billions in profit (by skilfully using tax avoidance to get away from what they owe) Google still can't provide a decent translator.

Quote:
the gyro is connected to a maximum of 7.4V voltage and can be made by starting, at speed controller or via the remote control (after free channel at the receiver)
The gyro can with flywheel to the rear axle by lots of allen screw (right side, the cable) are displaced in the axial direction to the wheel center to place in the swingarm.
Mmmm. All seems ok. I get I can have an auto start, run it off the supplied potentiometer, or off a spare Rx channel. Cool! I'll jump to typing out what looks like is the Rx instructions and see what it says. I'm not sure about the gyro can with flywheel lark, but I'll figure that out later...

Quote:
The gyro is connected as electronic speed control to a free Anger retail channel, where it can also be controlled if the remote control has a third channel with possibility for continuous adjustment. It follows the same rules as for operation with the potentiometer.
A free Anger retail channel eh? Do I need to subscribe to a satellite TV company for that one or is it on Freeview or do I need a webcam and do it all online? Is it Monty Pythons 'Argument Clinic' for those that can't be bothered to leave the house but still want to argue with a stranger? I see it says that I need to translate the potentiometer part. So skipping that out didn't help me. Serves me right for being impatient and lazy!

Quote:
the automatic start (small, shrunken connector for power cable) is simply plugged into the power cord. After playing the melody of the roundabout journey in stages up to the max. High speed. With an additional on-off switch
before the regulator can adjust the speed as well. Simply turn off the controller, wait 3-8 seconds, then turn on the controller, depending on the speed gewunschter again. If you wait too long to turn on the braking and you have to start the new roundabout.
What's that? Playing a Roundabout melody up to max speed?! This is starting to seem like a surreal mix of The Magic Roundabout theme tune and Benny Hill!
Ah! Now I get it, it's just what is referred to when you turn the bike on it's scratchbars to get going! Mind you, now I've read that, I'll always have the Magic Roundabout theme tune in my head and visions of an enormous Dougal chasing me ala the Goodies.

Edit! ''the speed gewunschter'' ? Is this some kind of fiendish Ghoul or Goblin that I pray that I have fed well and looked after? Is it some kind of part Stig/part Alien? I hope they are not fussy eaters as I'm all out of freshly slaughtered Unicorns and Pixie Dust dessert. They never mentioned anything about this on the shop webpage!


Quote:
The potentiometer must be turned to the left before you get infected the battery. To start the potentiometer slowly clockwise until the gyroscope rotates faster and faster. If the controller has shut down due to overload, turn the potentiometer to the left again and start from scratch, it smells the position 3 clock. In this position, the 5 clock position has, at 6 clock turns off the controller, turning the potentiometer to the left again and restart. The rotary knob has a recess, in order to detect the position.
Infect the battery? Crikey! I mean, I know I have a bad cold at the moment but I didn't think that Lipos could catch a cold too! I'd best make some sleeping bags for them and hang some stockings above their beds. Mind you, I can't see it being exciting at christmas for a battery. The same present of electrons every time.
What's this about the potentiometer? Scratch and sniff? I hope it smells of summer meadows when it does that, instead of fried copper and plastic...

Quote:
The gyro has been designed for operation at a maximum voltage of 7.4V. Although the controller is suitable for voltages up to 11.1V, but must not be operated with the automatic starter, otherwise the speed for the motor is too high and the rotor can be damaged, OPERATION OF A maximum of 11.1v with the potentiometer ( clock position 3 and 90 degree rotation!) is possible, a power awareness is taken over from our side then.

When removing and installing the gyro does not pull too much on the wiring harness. Please do not open the gyro, this voids the warranty. The gyro system necessarily protect against wet.
''a power awareness is taken over from our side then.'' What's this all about? Should I be consulting Yoda just in case??? I should be ok though, I've resisted the Dark Side (1/8 nitro buggies) all summer despite their best efforts to recruit me. It's bikes all the way for me...

Dislaimer (This is not a pop at the original instructions, just a pop at Google Translate, or should that be Google Transmogrify).
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Last edited by Jonathan Bradbury; Dec 24, 2012 at 03:34 PM. Reason: Spelling,an after thought, and adding a few secret links in there.
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Old Dec 24, 2012, 12:00 PM
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Merry Christmas JB, e-gyro and sleepy batteries!!!!
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Old Dec 24, 2012, 01:09 PM
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lol JB, I have the same experiences translating the motorrad german forum. Half the time its almost jibberish. Good luck!
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